98+ CAMARO “LS1” Brakes: Bigger & Better Period

[ebmiller88]

What caliper? No need to tap and thread any caliper holes...can you elaborate?

Ed

[BenDoe91z28]

Not the caliper, the "caliper carrier" I saw a few pictures at the beginning of the thread with bolts bolted into the caliper carriers.

[ebmiller88]

Ahhh...now I get it. Those holes are where the guide pins go. Besides the caliper carriers, you need the 4 guide pins and dust boots, and the 4 caliper to guide pin bolts.

Ed

[IROC-Z28_CAMARO]

Does some one have the part numbers for

guide pins
guide pin boots
banjo bolts
crush washer
caliper to abutment bolts
caliper carrier.

Thanks, Josh

Also before I bolt the stuff on my car, Which bolts should I use to prevent them from backing off like some users have had happen.

Would it be acceptable to use lock washers with the original bolts being used or use the ones that were recommended after the incident eith the caliper falling off.

[MurcoRS]

Originally posted by IROC-Z28_CAMARO
Also before I bolt the stuff on my car, Which bolts should I use to prevent them from backing off like some users have had happen.

Would it be acceptable to use lock washers with the original bolts being used or use the ones that were recommended after the incident eith the caliper falling off.

For the harware, just go to the dealer for that stuff. I'd also use the OEM black-oxide coated caliper saddle bolts with locktight "red" to avoid any lost bolts. Do not use lock washers!

[ebmiller88]

Originally posted by IROC-Z28_CAMARO
Does someone have the part numbers for

guide pins
guide pin boots
banjo bolts
crush washer
caliper to abutment bolts
caliper carrier.

Thanks, Josh

Also before I bolt the stuff on my car, Which bolts should I use to prevent them from backing off like some users have had happen.

Would it be acceptable to use lock washers with the original bolts being used or use the ones that were recommended after the incident eith the caliper falling off.

guide pins: don't have it on me;
guide pin boots: Seal kit from AZ: H5926;
banjo bolts: 10286122, C5 banjo bolt actually but it works;
crush washer: AZ will have them, no real P/N for those;
caliper to abutment bolts: Will come with the caliper;
caliper carrier: 18026163

I recommend using both Loctite and lockwashers, and safety wire if you can do that.

Also, most if not all of this info is in this thread on page one, it just takes a little reading...

Ed

[MurcoRS]

Big kudos on the info you've amassed guys! I've decided to go with this set-up and have acquired most everything for the swap. I am looking at using the C5 caliper, mostly for the additional strength, and am wondering if anyone has tried using these with the C5 saddle?

Originally posted by ebmiller88
I recommend using both Loctite and lockwashers, and safety wire if you can do that.
Ed

Again, do not use lockwashers on brake calipers or their mounts. They tend to compress under load and vibration allowing bolts to loosen. No OEM brakes use lockwashers for this reason.
The bolts alone should provide all the clamping force you need and will do so unless you have uneven mounting surfaces, loose threads, or zinc-plated hardware (acts like a lubricant). Try using flanged hex-head bolts with either a cad or black oxide coating along with the Loctite. Safety wiring may be a bit of overkill but indulge yourself if you feel the need!

[MurcoRS]

Big kudos on the info you've amassed guys! I've decided to go with this set-up and have acquired most everything for the swap. I am looking at using the C5 caliper, mostly for the additional strength, and am wondering if anyone has tried using these with the C5 saddle?

Originally posted by ebmiller88
I recommend using both Loctite and lockwashers, and safety wire if you can do that.
Ed

Again, do not use lockwashers on brake calipers or their mounts. They tend to compress under load and vibration allowing bolts to loosen. No OEM brakes use lockwashers for this reason.
The bolts alone should provide all the clamping force you need and will do so unless you have uneven mounting surfaces, loose threads, or zinc-plated hardware (acts like a lubricant). Try using flanged hex-head bolts with either a cad or black oxide coating along with the Loctite. Safety wiring may be a bit of overkill but indulge yourself if you feel the need!

[ebmiller88]

I understand about using flange head bolts, it was talked about a few pages back when a caliper came loose on a member's setup. The issue I still have with the GM bolts is that they're too long to fit like I like them to so you'd have to cut them, no sense in that IMO so I stick with hex head bolts and Loctite.

You can use the C5 carrier but it will require a different bracket. I've thought about doing "interchange" kits, LS1 calipers with C5 abutments and vice versa but haven't sat down to figure it out. I'd prefer to use the C5 carrier since there's no bolt head clearance issues with it.

Murco..what hubs are those? Auminum anodized?

Ed

[MurcoRS]

Originally posted by ebmiller88
The issue I still have with the GM bolts is that they're too long to fit like I like them to so you'd have to cut them, no sense in that IMO so I stick with hex head bolts and Loctite.

You can use the C5 carrier but it will require a different bracket. I've thought about doing "interchange" kits, LS1 calipers with C5 abutments and vice versa but haven't sat down to figure it out. I'd prefer to use the C5 carrier since there's no bolt head clearance issues with it.

Murco..what hubs are those? Auminum anodized?

Ed

A good source for excellent nuts and bolts may be as close as your nearest Post Office that has a garage. They use Bowman fasteners (same as all Nascar teams) and you chat with the shop foreman he may give you a few!
I'm digging the C5 caliper's pressure casting and extra strenghth and I'll check the saddle on the LS1 set-up tomorrow (I have both on hand) to see if they are interchangable.
The hubs? Just like everyone elses here, just painted with Duplicolor "metal-cast" for the effect...

[ugpkgb]

Try this sit for part numbers. I know it for the C-5 but most of it should cross over

http://82lt1.cz28.com/brakes/brakes.html

Might help out.

[wdigitog]

any of you have pics of your C-5 REAR install? does the bracket direct mount to the axle flanges? or do i need to modify?

[SERPENT99]

Don't like to double post, but I feel this is important. I don't want anyone getting hurt using my brackes or anyone elses brackets.

[MurcoRS]

One more interesting tid-bit for you conversion hounds!!
The calipers I got were loaded C5 parts from Car Quest (came with brackets, pads, and hardware) and if you noticed, they are black (Ok, grey). Interesting note about the color, if your calipers are bare aluminum, they are rebuilds. If they are dark grey like mine, they are NEW! Apparently, the reman companies can only get so many of the old units to rebuild and end up buying certain numbers of new ones for stocking purposes! So, I got complete caliper set-ups NEW for about $350.00! How cool is that!!

[SERPENT99]

so, where's the store that you bought them located? Did you get caught when you tried to return the LS1 calipers for the core charge?

[ebmiller88]

Originally posted by wdigitog
any of you have pics of your C-5 REAR install? does the bracket direct mount to the axle flanges? or do i need to modify?

A C5 rear install will be just like a LS1 rear brake install with maybe a few changes to the e-brake setup. Just like this:

http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/te...reardisc.shtml

Ed

[MurcoRS]

Originally posted by SERPENT99
so, where's the store that you bought them located? Did you get caught when you tried to return the LS1 calipers for the core charge?

Sarasota, Florida... But they had to order them from one of their hubs so anyone can access these. I didn't do anything shady, just returned the LS1 calipers I had previously bought.

[SERPENT99]

are you saying you gave them LS1 calipers as core returns for the C5 calipers? I'm a little slow, just trying to understand. I guess you could argue that your vette had the LS1 calipers and they couldn't say anything unless they wanted to see the car

[MurcoRS]

Originally posted by SERPENT99
are you saying you gave them LS1 calipers as core returns for the C5 calipers?

No, I didn't turn-in any core at all. I just returned the LS1 calipers I had previously bought and then purchased the C5 calipers...

[gearhead0384]

I am missing the caliper bolts to one of my LS1 calipers. Does anyone know what the part number for caliper bolts are.

Thanks

Kevin

[gearhead0384]

** Double Post**

[ebmiller88]

Kevin, I'll send you a pair of caliper bolts with the other ones that will go out today, I have extras.

Ed

[NuBird]

one more vote for the LS1 brakes, I did the front ls1 and the back I have a 9 bolt rear and I modified new brake plates so it would fit (thank you dremel) and let me tell you this thing will stop a digested white castle from exiting your ***

[Matthew91-Z28]

Finally back to this subject. Have been following since the beginning. But am now finally ready to get this done.

I remember something about someone using 1LE rotors as hubs for some reason instead of stock. I think it was ed.

Anyway, I have a pair of 1LE rotors new and thought I'd use them.

1. What is the advantage of using them over stock for hubs?

2. Do I still need the same longer wheel studs?

[GTA91]

Originally posted by NuBird
and let me tell you this thing will stop a digested white castle from exiting your ***

I'm running LS1 brakes at all corners with stainless braided lines, LS1 master cylinder, and a wilwood adjustable PV and I'd have to agree with your statement

[GTA91]

Originally posted by MurcoRS
Another look at the hub...

Any more info on that hub? Cost? Will it work? I love my LS1 brakes but the thickness of the front hubs concern me. That one is alot "beefier". LMK, TIA!