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Old 04-06-2004, 07:26 AM   #401
ebmiller88
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I'm still waiting on the C5 caliper and carrier to compare them.

On a side note, with LS1 content, Monte Carlo LS1 brakes:
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:26 AM   #402
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Front:
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Old 04-06-2004, 06:51 PM   #403
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What model year vettes have the C5 brakes?

I'm shopping around for brake pads. If the C5 pads are interchangeable with the LS1, maybe I'll ask for C5 pads just for kicks to compare prices/availability.
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Old 04-06-2004, 07:50 PM   #404
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'97 and up are the C5s.

Ed
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Old 04-06-2004, 08:21 PM   #405
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OK, I got the C5 caliper and carrier in today (Thanks again Dal!)

There's a slight difference in them but overall they're pretty close. Here's a rundown of the main differences I've seen...sorry, no pics as of yet but I'll get them soon.

1- The C5 carrier uses a M14 x 2.0 bolt like the C4 carriers do, the LS1 uses the M12 x 1.75 bolts;

2- The parallel distance between the guide pin holes and the carrier bolt holes is longer on the LS1 bracket;

3- The distance between carrier bolt holes is almost the same, but just a hair longer on the C5 carrier than on the LS1 carrier;

4- The thickness of the area where the bolt holes are located on the C5 carrier is thicker than on the LS1. I couldn't fit it in between the bracket and the rotor on the brakes I had handy and the LS1 carrier slides in with room on both sides. This is where the different rotor offset comes into play. I don't have the C5 rotor yet but I will have one later this week.

Without pics, I hope you can follow my descriptions. The calipers appear to interchange in the carriers but who knows if they will until I get the whole thing fit up with both rotors.

More later...


Ed
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Old 04-10-2004, 03:02 PM   #406
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One more four wheel LS1 car on the road.

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Old 04-10-2004, 03:03 PM   #407
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And the rear.
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Old 04-10-2004, 07:25 PM   #408
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Congrats! You are the 2nd guy I know to have them at all 4 corners, the other is Lock.


Ed
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Old 04-10-2004, 07:36 PM   #409
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Welcome to the being able to stop club!

Thanks again for the fronts Ed. :hail:
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Old 04-10-2004, 08:53 PM   #410
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Whats the advantage of the rear? bigger? or just more effective? Any big issues?


-Steve
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Old 04-10-2004, 09:52 PM   #411
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For me, I wanted disc brakes on the rear. A Ls1 rear made that a cheap swap. Added bonus of being able to use 4th gen wheels(I went with SS/Zr1 style) and posi with the Torsen. Depends on what your after, for me it worked out perfect. I already had 3.73's and an Auburn Pro posi in my thirdgen rear but Im using that rear for the truck Im restoring.
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Old 04-10-2004, 10:03 PM   #412
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ill be #3 i just need to get off my *** and work on the thing. the reason i switched is because would you want to look at ****ty *** rusty drums behind roh snyper wheels?
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Old 04-13-2004, 04:21 PM   #413
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Ed

Do you think the "thickness" issue on the C5 carrier can be helped with a 1/4" bracket (opposed to th 5/16) ?
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Old 04-13-2004, 07:32 PM   #414
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Maybe so, I still have to fit the thing up and luckily I do have a 1/4" C4 bracket on hand.

Ed

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Old 04-13-2004, 09:22 PM   #415
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I will be taking my car to the race track on Friday to shake down the LS1s and put them to a real test. Based on driving around some back roads near my house I should be outbraking Porsches. Stay tuned for the results.

I may be in the minority but I think with the recall kit and an adjustable proportioning valve, the J65 rear discs are plenty of brake in the back. In fact I have had trouble with wheel hop under heavy braking at the track because of too much rear brake. I think the LS1s up front will be a good match for the J65s out back. Of course, putting the LS1s on the rear will not hurt performance any and if your'e swapping from drum rears, want to change gear ratios, or get a Torsen from a 4th gen then it's a good choice.
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Old 04-14-2004, 08:06 AM   #416
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I want the rear LS1's for the e-brake. the J65's never stay adjusted or work that good when they are adjusted.
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Old 04-14-2004, 01:42 PM   #417
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The rear LS1s are indeed cool, but for ease of operation and install on older cars, I strongly recommend the '89-97 LT1/1LE PBRs. They will do the job fine.


Ed
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Old 04-15-2004, 03:59 PM   #418
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Ed,

If you find some time, could you tell me the distance b/t the back of the LS1 rotor and the 5/16 in bracket? Just curious about offset.

thanks
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Old 04-15-2004, 10:08 PM   #419
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Sure but it won't be until Tuesday or so...I'm waiting on my steel order to come in.

Ed
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Old 04-20-2004, 12:16 AM   #420
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I just finished taking measurements on both the C5 and LS1 carriers. The carrier to bracket holes are both 5.05" apart, so those holes are the same. The parallel distance from the guide pins to those bolt holes is 2.15" for the C5s and 2.495" => 2.50" for the LS1s. Doesn't really help without a pic tho...Anyway, the only diference here is the offset distance, so you could run a C5 carrier but you will need to move the 2 center "carrier to bracket" holes. I guess you can also say that you can run a LS1 rotor with the C5 calipers and carriers, all you have to do is move the 2 middle bracket holes out a bit.

Math time:

Take the difference in parallel difference:

2.50"-2.15"=.350"

Move the 2 bracket holes out that much and there you go. Note these holes are also for a M14 C5 bolt vice a M12 LS1 bolt. Also, like I mentioned earlier the C5 carrier is roughly 1/8" thicker than the LS1 carrier so you can't fit it in there anyway. But what you could do (I guess) is fiddle with the offsets and run a larger C5 rotor with a LS1 caliper....

Concerning the calipers, the C5 calipers have SMALLER PISTONS than the LS1s...I don't have a measurement yet on those.


Ed

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Old 04-21-2004, 06:49 AM   #421
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I am new to posting, so bare with me. I want to thank Ed, Luke and ALL the others for their hard work on this mod. I am a firm believer of afordable upgrades.

Since reading the thread, I have already started on this upgrade. I bought the "LS1" parts from a salvage yard for $130.00. I have the new studs and I work at a shop so, turning down the hubs is not a problem. I am, however uncertain or not so confident about acquiring the braket for mounting the caliper braket. Does anyone have a reliable source for these brakets? Does someone make them on the board that can be compensated for their effort? Please let me know. I have already done the rear "LS1" upgrade, I'm ready to be another all "LS1" disc brake member.

Thank You,

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Old 04-21-2004, 07:32 AM   #422
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I am new to posting, so bare with me. I want to thank Ed, Luke and ALL the others for their hard work on this mod. I am a firm believer of afordable upgrades.

Since reading the thread, I have already started on this upgrade. I bought the "LS1" parts from a salvage yard for $130.00. I have the new studs and I work at a shop so, turning down the hubs is not a problem. I am, however uncertain or not so confident about acquiring the braket for mounting the caliper braket. Does anyone have a reliable source for these brakets? Does someone make them on the board that can be compensated for their effort? Please let me know. I have already done the rear "LS1" upgrade, I'm ready to be another all "LS1" disc brake member.

Thank You,

Rob
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Old 04-21-2004, 05:40 PM   #423
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Sent you a PM...

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Old 04-22-2004, 04:21 PM   #424
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Hey guys, I wanted to talk about the hubs that we are turning down. I have just recently turned my hubs. I had originally planned to cut the back down like I had seen in, I believe, the C4 brake thread. I have decided not to.

My reason is this, I work at a Auto Repair shop and have for years. I remembered that there is/was a significant problem with FORD Expeditions and removing the front brake rotors. The front hubs sat far in on the rotors. The inside of the rotor hat, over time, rusted and grew rust over the back of the hubs. This basically fuesed the two together. When it came time to replace or machine the rotors, it was next to impossible to remove without a torch or a hammer or damage.

My thinking is that this problem could occur on our hubs. By leaving the hubs thick(or long), I believe that it could help eliminate the possibility of the two fuesing together. Just my opinion. Let me know what you all think. I just want to help perfect the process.


Thanks,

Rob
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Old 04-22-2004, 04:37 PM   #425
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I'm thinking that if you leave the hubs longer like you suggest there may be a slim risk of cutting off air flow to the vanes in the rotor. Now I haven't done this myself yet so I'm not sure how much room is in there. Just something to think about.
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Old 04-22-2004, 06:24 PM   #426
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I turn my hubs down even to the thickness of the hub face, that is plenty. To avoid the rotors sticking to the hubs, just take a SMALL amount of grease/silicone lube and smear it over the face of the hub and inside face of the rotor prior to installing it, it won't stick then. I just don't see the need to leave the extra metal there.

Ed
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Old 04-22-2004, 07:59 PM   #427
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A small coating of anti-seize between the hub and disc should help.
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Old 04-27-2004, 02:32 PM   #428
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Just thought I would post the updated 1LE Prop Valve # for 4 wheel Disk brakes.

it is GM PART # 10164112 Late 89 to 92 valve 1.5M

I got my from dal for $65 shipped.

I figured I would go this route because I am doing the full, front and rear LS1 Swap and I have drum rear now.

Still have to Make the Rear Calipers Pretty like my front ones before I do the whole swap.
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Old 04-27-2004, 09:46 PM