Steering column feels like a loose tooth...

[sancho]

This is in regards to the '89 IROC in the signature...

I'm not really sure what caused this, but my steering wheel has a lot of movement. I'm not talking about "play" with regards to the way that turning the wheel affects the front tires (although it does have some play, that's a different issue). I mean that it's loose in that I can physically pull the whole wheel upward nearly an inch, and I can also wiggle the whole thing from left to right about an inch or so. The blinker/windshield wiper controls also move with the wheel, so it's probably the whole column that's loose. Also, I've recently noticed that, whenever I turn the wheel a full rotation or so and then come back to center, there's a sound like a marble or something falling on plastic coming from the inside of the wheel.

Something tells me that this will probably be an expensive and/or time-consuming repair, but I'm just curious as to what it will take to stiffen this thing up.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

[ershealy]

I had the same problem. There are four bolts behind the tilt mechanism that are loose. Problem is you have to disassemble the column from the steering wheel past the tilt mechanism to get to them. Look in the technical articles on this board, I believe that there is one addressing this.

By the way It is not hard, not even a pain, just time consuming the first time you do it and you will need a steering wheel puller, lock plate tool, and tilt steering pin puller. I got my tilt steering pin puller at Pep Boys for $10. Some times they can be elusive in parts stores. Don't spend a lot for this thing, unless you are a mechanic for a living you will probably do this once or twice in your life.

[ede]

a deep e8 ( i think) socket makes it a lot easier too, not that you need a deep socket but the design of the socket makes it a lot easier. cost around 10 dollars from snap on

[Z dude]

carefull on the signal switch...it will come apart but sometimes its a bitch,but it is an easy job to tighten the bolts and it will be good as new,make sure you dont put it off.....I know a guy that had one of the bolts actualy come out of its threads and lock his steering wheel

[jl2152]

I am having the loose tooth problem with my steering wheel how exactly do you pull all the crap that covers it up off. I have gotten the steering wheel off using the puller but I haven't been able to see anything else to take off after that.

[Z dude]

Originally posted by jl2152
I am having the loose tooth problem with my steering wheel how exactly do you pull all the crap that covers it up off. I have gotten the steering wheel off using the puller but I haven't been able to see anything else to take off after that.

you need to get the tool to compress the plastic peice and pull the clip out then you'll see more into it...I dunno if you have auto zones or other parts places there that rent tools but do that if you can...then they usually give your money back when you bring the tool back in one peice,but even if you buy one I believe its like under 10 bucks

[Vader]

Your car will be a little easier if there is no VATS wiring and SIR coil/wiring/gas bag. If you have VATS, there are only two more wires that need to be handled. With SIR, you have an entire additional procedure to remove and reassemble the system. You really should have a service manual in hand for that procedure.

Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.

Next, remove the hazard flasher knob on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the knob in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.

Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.



Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.



When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that hold the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.



Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to umplug and feed down along the column.



Remove the column tilt release lever by unscrewing it. Set it nearby since you will need to reinstall it after the upper bowl trim jacket is removed. Remove the turn signal / multifunction lever shaft by carefully pulling it out of the switch. Unplug the cruise control wire harness (if equipped). Remove the remaining upper bowl trim screws and lift the upper bowl off the column. Find the column tilt release lever and thread it back in hand tight for now.

Remove the upper steering shaft bearing nut and retainer clip. Remove the upper bearing set. Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column.



Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.

Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller. Assemble the parts as shown, fully bottoming the screw by hand (to get the maximum thread bearing strength), then back it off a turn or two in case the bolt snaps later. Once the screw thrread is set, run the nut down with a wrench to jack the pivot pin out of the column die casting. It the screw snaps, there should be adequate material to back it out by hand (which is why you didn't bottom it out to begin with). Usually, the pin will pull easily once it starts moving and deforms the stakes that were retaining it.



Once the pins are removed, operate the column tilt release lever and remove the upper column half. Note the routing of the ignition switch linkage rod(s) when you remove the upper column half. Tilt the upper stub shaft and universal joint to allow the joint to be separated.

At this point, you should be viewing the top of the lower column half and four Torx cap screws. Remove these screws one at a time, clean the threads, and apply a light coating of LocTite 242 or an equivalent medium strength removable thread locker. Tighten the bolts by hand until all four are reinstalled. Torque these bolts to 180 in/lb.

Reassemble the upper column half in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.

When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....

There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have them as well.

There is also a very remote possibility that your car has an inflatable restraint, in which case you'll need to disconnect the battery and insulate all connections before you start. You should also have a service manual to detail the proper procedure for removing and re-centering the triggering coil and pickup for the SIR. You don't want to have that done incorrectly. Come to think of it, a manual is a good idea, anyway.

[IROCZTWENTYGR8]

You just don't see a reply like that everyday. Thanks for making the FAQ Board better Vader.

[Z dude]

EXCELLENT work!!

now if that doesnt help nothing will

[RCAR7395]

Here's pics of the bolts we're all looking for !

[izcain]

Looks like I know what ill be doing this weekend thanks for the great post! ;-)

[Truintl]

Thanks for all the great tips just finished doing mine!

[Pod99966]

Ok, I just finished tearing it down.

Tightened the 4 torx bolts and have it back to the point where I reinstall the ignition cylinder.

When I started the project I was following the Haynes manual (worthless crap) so I didn't realize I would need the tilt pin extractor. I had my windows down, so I pushed it back together enough to turn the key and get the windows to go up.

The next day I bought a pin extractor. I've got it back together and now I can't get the ignition to work. I took it apart without a key in it but now the ignition cylinder won't slide in unless I have a key in it.

So I put a key in, slide the cylinder in and install the bolt for the ignition, and now I can't get the key out, and I have no power (lights and horn work) and the key doesn't spring back from the start position.

Any help would be appreciated.

[xgtharo86x]

mine the same way its about to fall off i got like 3 inch play

['88ina'84Z]

when i got my '84 the steering column felt like it was just resting in there so i had to get one from a salvage yard(surprisingly not junk)for $60 and threw that bad boy in there in about two hours. all thats to it.

[87CIZ]

Originally Posted by Pod99966

Ok, I just finished tearing it down.

Tightened the 4 torx bolts and have it back to the point where I reinstall the ignition cylinder.

When I started the project I was following the Haynes manual (worthless crap) so I didn't realize I would need the tilt pin extractor. I had my windows down, so I pushed it back together enough to turn the key and get the windows to go up.

The next day I bought a pin extractor. I've got it back together and now I can't get the ignition to work. I took it apart without a key in it but now the ignition cylinder won't slide in unless I have a key in it.

So I put a key in, slide the cylinder in and install the bolt for the ignition, and now I can't get the key out, and I have no power (lights and horn work) and the key doesn't spring back from the start position.

Any help would be appreciated.

you probably jumped off a tooth on the rod that is turned by the lock cylinder i did that the last time i did it. It won't allow you to turn the key back far enough to remove it right?

[Morit]

I came to the point that you see on a pictures and Im stuck..
Nothing can be unscrew or moved, please help :P

[350 TPI]

This job seemed a little over my head so i paid my mechanic $50 to do it and let him worry about the hassle.In case it wasnt mentioned here be sure to use thread lock on the screws that need to be tightened up or it will happen again

[dennisbernal91z]

subscribing

[DENN_SHAH]

Morit, you have to remove the spring cap & pivot pins Vader mentioned in this part of his post,

"Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.

Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller."

here is your pictures with those items shown.
there are 2 pivot pins to remove, the second one is on the other side.

[Morit]

Ok, I done it.. But one screw is lost, one is broken..
And the two others are so much lose :P
I bought a new column...

[Morit]

OK, biiig problem. My column (bought from 86 Trans Am GTA - mine is firebird 88) is about an inch shorter at the place where you connect it to the gear box..
Dont really know what to do now

[87CIZ]

and you have it bolted against the firewall? cause they're all the same length man...

[Morit]

Yeah I did bolt it to firewall.. I dont know why is that.. It looks like the very end of shaft sticks longer from the old column then from the new one..

EDIT: Is there any way that I could have shorten the column shaft? Or the intermediate shaft that is connected to the grear box? (i have disconnected it first while trying to put the column and it together becouse it was so tight I could have not done it and I ended with sanding the column shaft afterwards ) I have used prette much power first.. Maybe I have bend the firewall? Help, I have no ideas :P

[DENN_SHAH]

Morit, did you get it figured out?
if not, the shaft between the steering column & the gear box is collapsible.
it does this in case your in an accident.
you can make it longer by sliding it apart, it may slid easily, or it may be hard.
if it comes apart, there is a piece that will fall out, its a slightly curved spring that fits into a slot on the inner shaft. the outter ends go against the inner shaft. put a little grease on it & slid it back together. if you leave the spring out, it will be loose & rattle.

[TomsZ/28]

Thanks Vader, This is just what I was looking for. I never had a tilt column apart or any idea how they worked. I fixed mine and the Z drives like a new ride. Iv'e got alot of stuff to do to it. So I'll be reading this forum over and over to find all I need. Thanks again Third Gen. too for the forum. Tom

[BMAN90RS]

omg thanks alot guys this is a huge help. i thought my steering column was busted and i would have to replace it.