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This is in regards to the '89 IROC in the signature...
I'm not really sure what caused this, but my steering wheel has a lot of movement. I'm not talking about "play" with regards to the way that turning the wheel affects the front tires (although it does have some play, that's a different issue). I mean that it's loose in that I can physically pull the whole wheel upward nearly an inch, and I can also wiggle the whole thing from left to right about an inch or so. The blinker/windshield wiper controls also move with the wheel, so it's probably the whole column that's loose. Also, I've recently noticed that, whenever I turn the wheel a full rotation or so and then come back to center, there's a sound like a marble or something falling on plastic coming from the inside of the wheel.
Something tells me that this will probably be an expensive and/or time-consuming repair, but I'm just curious as to what it will take to stiffen this thing up.
I had the same problem. There are four bolts behind the tilt mechanism that are loose. Problem is you have to disassemble the column from the steering wheel past the tilt mechanism to get to them. Look in the technical articles on this board, I believe that there is one addressing this.
By the way It is not hard, not even a pain, just time consuming the first time you do it and you will need a steering wheel puller, lock plate tool, and tilt steering pin puller. I got my tilt steering pin puller at Pep Boys for $10. Some times they can be elusive in parts stores. Don't spend a lot for this thing, unless you are a mechanic for a living you will probably do this once or twice in your life.
a deep e8 ( i think) socket makes it a lot easier too, not that you need a deep socket but the design of the socket makes it a lot easier. cost around 10 dollars from snap on
__________________ MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
Ex quocumque facere poteris te sauciabit, nihilo comprehenso.
carefull on the signal switch...it will come apart but sometimes its a bitch,but it is an easy job to tighten the bolts and it will be good as new,make sure you dont put it off.....I know a guy that had one of the bolts actualy come out of its threads and lock his steering wheel
I am having the loose tooth problem with my steering wheel how exactly do you pull all the crap that covers it up off. I have gotten the steering wheel off using the puller but I haven't been able to see anything else to take off after that.
Originally posted by jl2152 I am having the loose tooth problem with my steering wheel how exactly do you pull all the crap that covers it up off. I have gotten the steering wheel off using the puller but I haven't been able to see anything else to take off after that.
you need to get the tool to compress the plastic peice and pull the clip out then you'll see more into it...I dunno if you have auto zones or other parts places there that rent tools but do that if you can...then they usually give your money back when you bring the tool back in one peice,but even if you buy one I believe its like under 10 bucks
Your car will be a little easier if there is no VATS wiring and SIR coil/wiring/gas bag. If you have VATS, there are only two more wires that need to be handled. With SIR, you have an entire additional procedure to remove and reassemble the system. You really should have a service manual in hand for that procedure.
Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.
Next, remove the hazard flasher knob on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the knob in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.
Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.
Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.
When the wheel locking plate is removed, you can look at the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that hold the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.
Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to umplug and feed down along the column.
Remove the column tilt release lever by unscrewing it. Set it nearby since you will need to reinstall it after the upper bowl trim jacket is removed. Remove the turn signal / multifunction lever shaft by carefully pulling it out of the switch. Unplug the cruise control wire harness (if equipped). Remove the remaining upper bowl trim screws and lift the upper bowl off the column. Find the column tilt release lever and thread it back in hand tight for now.
Remove the upper steering shaft bearing nut and retainer clip. Remove the upper bearing set. Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column.
Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.
Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller. Assemble the parts as shown, fully bottoming the screw by hand (to get the maximum thread bearing strength), then back it off a turn or two in case the bolt snaps later. Once the screw thrread is set, run the nut down with a wrench to jack the pivot pin out of the column die casting. It the screw snaps, there should be adequate material to back it out by hand (which is why you didn't bottom it out to begin with). Usually, the pin will pull easily once it starts moving and deforms the stakes that were retaining it.
Once the pins are removed, operate the column tilt release lever and remove the upper column half. Note the routing of the ignition switch linkage rod(s) when you remove the upper column half. Tilt the upper stub shaft and universal joint to allow the joint to be separated.
At this point, you should be viewing the top of the lower column half and four Torx cap screws. Remove these screws one at a time, clean the threads, and apply a light coating of LocTite 242 or an equivalent medium strength removable thread locker. Tighten the bolts by hand until all four are reinstalled. Torque these bolts to 180 in/lb.
Reassemble the upper column half in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.
When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....
There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have them as well.
There is also a very remote possibility that your car has an inflatable restraint, in which case you'll need to disconnect the battery and insulate all connections before you start. You should also have a service manual to detail the proper procedure for removing and re-centering the triggering coil and pickup for the SIR. You don't want to have that done incorrectly. Come to think of it, a manual is a good idea, anyway.
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
Tightened the 4 torx bolts and have it back to the point where I reinstall the ignition cylinder.
When I started the project I was following the Haynes manual (worthless crap) so I didn't realize I would need the tilt pin extractor. I had my windows down, so I pushed it back together enough to turn the key and get the windows to go up.
The next day I bought a pin extractor. I've got it back together and now I can't get the ignition to work. I took it apart without a key in it but now the ignition cylinder won't slide in unless I have a key in it.
So I put a key in, slide the cylinder in and install the bolt for the ignition, and now I can't get the key out, and I have no power (lights and horn work) and the key doesn't spring back from the start position.
mine the same way its about to fall off i got like 3 inch play
__________________
"Real cars don't power the front tires, they lift em'."
86' Trans Am- 85 LG4 with 77 non cc qjet elderbrock intake manifold...hedman headers( shorty style)..3" piping flowmaster 80 series..no emissions...4thgen center console..restored interior..2400watt system..700r4 with 2200 stall and corvette servo, shift kit..2.73 Posi..Torque Thrust II's.. FINALLY building my first 350
when i got my '84 the steering column felt like it was just resting in there so i had to get one from a salvage yard(surprisingly not junk)for $60 and threw that bad boy in there in about two hours. all thats to it.
Tightened the 4 torx bolts and have it back to the point where I reinstall the ignition cylinder.
When I started the project I was following the Haynes manual (worthless crap) so I didn't realize I would need the tilt pin extractor. I had my windows down, so I pushed it back together enough to turn the key and get the windows to go up.
The next day I bought a pin extractor. I've got it back together and now I can't get the ignition to work. I took it apart without a key in it but now the ignition cylinder won't slide in unless I have a key in it.
So I put a key in, slide the cylinder in and install the bolt for the ignition, and now I can't get the key out, and I have no power (lights and horn work) and the key doesn't spring back from the start position.
Any help would be appreciated.
you probably jumped off a tooth on the rod that is turned by the lock cylinder i did that the last time i did it. It won't allow you to turn the key back far enough to remove it right?
This job seemed a little over my head so i paid my mechanic $50 to do it and let him worry about the hassle.In case it wasnt mentioned here be sure to use thread lock on the screws that need to be tightened up or it will happen again
Morit, you have to remove the spring cap & pivot pins Vader mentioned in this part of his post,
"Remove the balance spring cap with a #2 or larger Phillips driver or larger square drive. This will allow the upper column fall to the lowest tilt position.
Remove the pivot pins from either side of the upper column using an 8-32 screw and nuts as a puller."
here is your pictures with those items shown.
there are 2 pivot pins to remove, the second one is on the other side.
OK, biiig problem. My column (bought from 86 Trans Am GTA - mine is firebird 88) is about an inch shorter at the place where you connect it to the gear box..
Dont really know what to do now
Yeah I did bolt it to firewall.. I dont know why is that.. It looks like the very end of shaft sticks longer from the old column then from the new one..
EDIT: Is there any way that I could have shorten the column shaft? Or the intermediate shaft that is connected to the grear box? (i have disconnected it first while trying to put the column and it together becouse it was so tight I could have not done it and I ended with sanding the column shaft afterwards ) I have used prette much power first.. Maybe I have bend the firewall? Help, I have no ideas :P
Morit, did you get it figured out?
if not, the shaft between the steering column & the gear box is collapsible.
it does this in case your in an accident.
you can make it longer by sliding it apart, it may slid easily, or it may be hard.
if it comes apart, there is a piece that will fall out, its a slightly curved spring that fits into a slot on the inner shaft. the outter ends go against the inner shaft. put a little grease on it & slid it back together. if you leave the spring out, it will be loose & rattle.
Thanks Vader, This is just what I was looking for. I never had a tilt column apart or any idea how they worked. I fixed mine and the Z drives like a new ride. Iv'e got alot of stuff to do to it. So I'll be reading this forum over and over to find all I need. Thanks again Third Gen. too for the forum. Tom
Ok, I am knee deep in this now... Im having the following problems:
1. I cant seem to get the keylock cylinder out. Im not exactly sure why. Whats even more anoying is I know I replaced this once before and I cant remember how I did it.
2. I cant seem to figure out how the turn signal switch comes out...
3... Instructions say to remove the tilt lever.. well it does not seem to unscrew... ? Ive even tried using pliers to get it loose....
Ok, I am rappidly loosing my patients with this thing. I did manage to get the ignition switch out, as well as the tilt leaver etc. Im at the point now where Im supposed to remove the pivot pins. The damn screw broke off in side the pin... so now what? while I wait for an answer Im gonna head up to pull apart and see if I cant just find a new column to put in...
Ok I'm also trying to get the 4 bolts tightened on my 89 buick century. I am all the way down to the point where I'm supposed to be able to pull the bearing housing off (I'm assuming the bearing housing is the whole metal thing that is in front of me past the lock ring and all that) I have the pins pulled.. the ignition thing out. the tilt lever will not unscrew for me though.. and I have all the stuff in front out like the lock ring thing.. the plastic part behind it.. and all the screws except the one holding the lock spring on out.
I can't get it to pull out. Also a bit further back in the guide there's mention of 4 1/2" bolts to take out after the two 13mm bolts under the column... I could never find those.
Ok, sorry this is going a little off topic sort of but Im not sure how to start a new thread here. Long story short as I said earlier I gave up on trying to repair this issue and went to a salage yard and got a column out of a camaro. While attempting to remove the column out of the trans-am, we could not get it to seperate with out disconecting the whole thing from the gear box. We pulled out out and low and behold half of the whole thing needs to be replaced. The part in question goes between the column and the gear box and has a Ujoint with a rubber boot on it. What exactly is that part called and does anyone know where I can get one other than a salvage yard. I figure if Im going to replace something like that I might as well get something new with lots of years of life left as opposed to some unknown from a yard.
its not only them bolts.there are two pins that slid in to each side of the colume one right behind the tilt u need to slide the plastic cover back and drive those pins in or take them out and check holes if worn get new pins.
so i have a related problem. started the car to move into the garage and work on, now i cant turn the car off.... key will not turn. had to pull power wire from HEI to kill the car. i see that a cable is connected to the shifter so park is identified, it makes an audible click in park. any ideas before i tear into it?
grab a hold of the column housing with both hands right in front of the dash below the tilt and turn signal parts area of the column
and turn it counter clockwise the same direction as if you were shifting a column shifter into park
try that
may need to adjust the shift cable
if this doesnt end up helping or being the cause
then it may be the lock switch actuator rod broken or out of place
__________________ IM or text me 217 671 7792 i don't check forums often!! fastr68 on yahoo msngr anytime! 1982 Trans Am HT WS7 - i have no F-body cars any more- i still do have many '82 to 84 AND '85-up bird and camaro parts and parting out 1991 S10 also all pieces blue colorCo-Founder of the Early Bird Club(82-84)
Last edited by Randy82WS7; 02-04-2008 at 06:40 PM.
I just tackled that project today. Tightened all the screws etc. What I dont understand is I have a big loose in the upper shaft when the lock ring is depressed (or not). I noticed the bearing on the upper shaft looks funny... like its splitting up? Its hard to describe. Before I take it appart one more time, can any of you column gurus help me out?
I'm in the middle of doing it now. I'm taking pictures at almost every step, so if anyone wants them let me know or I'll try to get them online with a link. Should have them in the next few days.
Just got a camaro aqbout a week ago, and the slide that engages the switch to actually start the car broke in the column. I got it out, but I can't seem to get the new one on. Do I just need to remove the retainer and the bearing so I can pull out the "bracket" that holds the lock cylinder out, then slide the new one on and rerverse it all back on?
Ok, so I'm having a few issue's while I'm trying to fix this puppy.
First off, I lowered my column so I could feed the wires up the column for more slack, and some of the balls from ( I assume, as the upper was still intact) my lower bearing, were falling all over the place.
Does this mean the bearing is completely messed and I need a new column, or can I just repack the bearings and be fine?
I'm currently at the step where it says;
"Remove the actuator rod link from the rack/sector that operates with the lock cylinder. Disconnect the link from the clip in the lower column."
I'm not sure how to actually remove these, and if I really need to?
Here's a picture of my current status (spring is out), and I don't know how to get the linkage rod out...
"Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead. "
Does anyone have a picture of this "wheel locking plate" tool? I figured it would helpful to have a picture along when going to the auto part store instead of just trying to explain it.
Autozone will have one to 'rent'. I don't have a picture but they list it as a lockplate removal tool, I think. They usually have a little chart with pictures of the tools available for loan.
Autozone will have one to 'rent'. I don't have a picture but they list it as a lockplate removal tool, I think. They usually have a little chart with pictures of the tools available for loan.
Cool, thanks for the proper name of the tool. Knowing I can rent it makes it all the better.
i bought mine with this prob. DON'T IGNORE IT ! my wheel came off in my lap, shorted-out my VATS module, and has been sitting for 1-1/2 years while i replace the column and try to fool the anti-theft. i got it started tonight for the first time.WooHoo!
food for thaught my friends. get those bolts tightened.It's very common 'cause people use the wheel to get in and out.
i got like 3 inch play 
) I have used prette much power first.. Maybe I have bend the firewall? Help, I have no ideas :P 
