Again, asked almost weekly. It's not a hard job but time consuming, and you MUST have the right tools or you'll be fighting with the parts all day. Also, if your car is a northern rust bucket you'll need to soak the hell out of all the bolts with penetrant if you hope to get them loose.
First off, be safe and use jackstands. Second, most of us don't have the tools that will be needed to do the job, but Auto Zone rents them for free (you leave a refundable deposit).
Here's a short rundown of what you'll need:
Jack and jackstands
Spring compressor
Pickle forks for tie rods and center link
Small 3-5# sledge hammer
Decent Metric socket set, with sizes up to 24mm (strut bolts)
More info can be found by searching the Suspension forum for "suspension rebuild" and "spring install".
For a step by step pictorial of what you're getting into, click the links below. The first is a complete front end rebuild and the second is the rearend rebuild/upgrade. The spring removal and replacement is covered in both. Here's a couple pointers that you will need to know:
1. Make SURE the front spings are indexed correctly or the front end will sit like a 4x4. The lower end of the spring coil must be placed betweend the 2 drain holes in the LCA.
2. I suggest replacing the front spring isolators while you do this. They are cheap from GM but Energy Suspension should have the poly replacements available by now. I don't recommend replacing the rear isolators with new ones though. They are made for the 4th gen cars, are all rubber, and when installed will make the rear end of the car sit 1-1.5" higher than it did. Reuse the old stock rear isolators. These are reinforced with steel and don't show much signs of wear.
Good luck with your spring replacement!
Front springs:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tarami...er72/my_photos
Rear springs:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tarami...er72/my_photos
Ed
__________________
Ed Miller
Flynbye Performance LLC
Fort Mill, SC, USA
1991 RS, 305 TBI/A4: stock W/ K&N, BMR LCAs and adj. panhard rod, Jamex STB, LS1 alum D/S, KYBs, and Corvette 13" C4 HD brakes;
1988 IROC L98/A4: K&Ns, TPIS Fast Pack, gutted MAF, MSD 6A, SLP 1 5/8" headers, Dynomax cat-back, Spohn SFCs, 1LE brakes, Earl's SS lines, ES bushings, Eibach Pro-Kit, Hotchkis STB, Moog stuff, BMR LCAs and adj. panhard rod, KYBs;
1970 RS, needing a lot of TLC.
Got brakes? It's up and running!
www.Flynbye.com
"Do you want to race or don't ya? I want to race." Dale Earnhardt