FAQ BoardThis board is where some of the most informative and helpful Frequently Asked Questions we get here at ThirdGen.Org are put for easier reference. This IS NOT a general question board.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Well his ran kinda crappy because it had some crappy 305 heads and things on it, also the distributor clamp kept coming loose and screwed his timing all the time. He never got a chance to build it right, he died at the ripe old age of 20 from a heart attack in his sleep last year.
ok since all u no how to read the CASTING NUMBERS heres mine the number close to the valve covers (the deck number (V0816cdf/1fr100432) i o its a305 but wut year is it i have no clue
__________________
"Real cars don't power the front tires, they lift em'."
86' Trans Am- 85 LG4 with 77 non cc qjet elderbrock intake manifold...hedman headers( shorty style)..3" piping flowmaster 80 series..no emissions...4thgen center console..restored interior..2400watt system..700r4 with 2200 stall and corvette servo, shift kit..2.73 Posi..Torque Thrust II's.. FINALLY building my first 350
ok since all u no how to read the CASTING NUMBERS heres mine the number close to the valve covers (the deck number (V0816cdf/1fr100432) i o its a305 but wut year is it i have no clue
First the "casting number" is located on the driver's side REAR of the block, on the flange forward of the bell housing. Based on the numbers you posted, your engine should have one of these casting numbers: 14010201, 14010203, 14010202, 14101147. These all indicate a 2-bolt-main 305. If you look along the rear flange of the block, you MIGHT find a "305" or "5.0" cast there, too, but this is not certain.
The "engine code" is stamped on a pad in front of the passenger side head. These are the numbers you posted. In the number "V0816CDF," "V" is for the assembly plant, which is Flint Michigan. "0816" indicates it was assembled on August 16. "CDF" means it's a 1985 305, and came originally with a Rochester E4ME 4-bbl carb. It was VIN engine code "H" (LG4), 150 horses, and could have been installed in a B-Body, F-Body, or Omega G-Body.
Again, these numbers indicate only what the engine was when it came out of the factory. They can not tell you for sure what you have now, as the motor could be bored, stroked, or both.
I've found the easiest way to distinguish the difference is a 305, your oil dipstick will come out on the passenger side. 350's pop put on the driver's side. No doubt about it.
I've found the easiest way to distinguish the difference is a 305, your oil dipstick will come out on the passenger side. 350's pop put on the driver's side. No doubt about it.
all smallblock chevys, 55 to 79 had driver side dipstick, including 305s
__________________
"Real cars don't power the front tires, they lift em'."
86' Trans Am- 85 LG4 with 77 non cc qjet elderbrock intake manifold...hedman headers( shorty style)..3" piping flowmaster 80 series..no emissions...4thgen center console..restored interior..2400watt system..700r4 with 2200 stall and corvette servo, shift kit..2.73 Posi..Torque Thrust II's.. FINALLY building my first 350
Sounds like the same old "Do I have a 2 bolt or 4 bolt 350???" Only way to tell is take off the oil pan and look. Only real way to tell if it's a 305, 350, 355, 383 is to pull the head and measure. Friend bought a 305, but it turned out that the guy he bought it from didn't know jack and it was originally a 350, but was now a 360. Check the casting number to find what the block started as...then if you really want to know, pull the head. I own three 350's theoretically. Two I know are 355's and one's an ls1 (346) with theoretically the original bore, I haven't pulled the head to check the ls1 yet.
Really you can not tell truly what displacement is by just pulling a head, my 383 if you pulled the head would be 4.030 same as your 355. but yes you could pull a head and tell if its a 305 or 350. same as you could not pull a head on a 400 and see if its a 377 or a 406 gotta check the crank to to make sure. ok this was me just being a smartass hehe
The oil dipstick on my 350 is on the passenger side of the car.
With your engine having a driver side dipstick, the engine is older than either an '82 or '83. Thats when they changed it over to a passenger side dipstick.
I've heard nothing but good about the SBC302, was it as good as everyone says? Sorry to jack a thread .
Yes, it was as good as everyone says. With the factory available cross ram and headers with a good tune was capable of over 450 HP with little else being done. Thats the reason that Ford had to build the Boss 302 to keep up with it in SCCA racing.
Yes, it was as good as everyone says. With the factory available cross ram and headers with a good tune was capable of over 450 HP with little else being done. Thats the reason that Ford had to build the Boss 302 to keep up with it in SCCA racing.
But realize that smaller displacement, shorter stroke (302 is 4.0" X 3.0" bore X stroke) means less torque. The 302 makes its horsepower from its ability to wind up to high rpm. That "good tune" with cross ram and headers means a long-duration cam. Street manners go down the drain, but you can easily make 450 horses. That is, at 6000+ rpm. SCCA racing is a high-rpm operation. For a pure street machine, longer stroke and more cubes for low-end torque is a better deal.
With your engine having a driver side dipstick, the engine is older than either an '82 or '83. Thats when they changed it over to a passenger side dipstick.
And with the dipsticl issue ever thoguht of someone swapping oil pans.I agree the black casting numbers is THE way to tell what the block was.Also the ID stamp on the front right ledge of the block deck(is they haven't been ground off or the block decked)will tell you what the motor was originally.
__________________ '02 Envoy SLT 4DR 4WD 4.2/4L60E/4.10/G80,K&N,PCM4Less,HiPo cat,Dynomax catback
'83 Z/28 LU5 305 CFI/K&N/Factory Dual Electric Fans/MSD-Hypertech Coil/Performance Rebuilt 700R4/JG1/J65/G80/G92-3.23/Hollow 36mm front-24mm rear bar,TDS steering brace,16" single stripe IROC with Summitomo HTR-H4/T-tops/Pwr everything
'73 C-10 CST 454/TH400(Factory BB Truck)A/C,Tilt,12 Bolt Posi,Dynomax
Miss my '70 Monte Carlo SS454
Sounds like the same old "Do I have a 2 bolt or 4 bolt 350???" Only way to tell is take off the oil pan and look. Only real way to tell if it's a 305, 350, 355, 383 is to pull the head and measure. Friend bought a 305, but it turned out that the guy he bought it from didn't know jack and it was originally a 350, but was now a 360. Check the casting number to find what the block started as...then if you really want to know, pull the head. I own three 350's theoretically. Two I know are 355's and one's an ls1 (346) with theoretically the original bore, I haven't pulled the head to check the ls1 yet.
Speaking of 4 bolts when did they start/end them, just outta curiousity im about 15 mins from pulling my pan on the engine stand and had to quit for the week and the suspense is killing me.
Edit: Guess ill hafta wait, there's no way of knowing. Was the 4 bolt an option for IROCs or what decided what cars got em or what cars didn't, ie RPO code (Like the G80 limited slip package) or trim package (Z28,IROC)
Last edited by darrencarr; 09-30-2007 at 02:48 PM.
My block is a 400 with a casting # of 3951509 with a casting date of k 21 3 but there were no 400's with a 509 casting in 73 so whats my engine now? A 72 casting put out in 73 or a late 74 casting so it would count as a 74?
The year is very relavent to me. 70-72 509's had a 4 bolt main, and 74-80 had a 2 bolt main. Which do I have without dropping the pan since the date is 73 and no 509's were cast in 1973?
Well I would like to know more about my motor but dropping the pan isnt in the future right now. PLus I heard 2 bolt mains on a 400 are stronger than a 4 bolt, not sure. Wouldnt you like to know about your engine?
My block is a 400 with a casting # of 3951509 with a casting date of k 21 3 but there were no 400's with a 509 casting in 73 so whats my engine now? A 72 casting put out in 73 or a late 74 casting so it would count as a 74?
If you're sure the year is '73, then I'd say it's a 2-bolt main. According to the MorTec reference (http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm), there weren't any '509 castings in '72, either. '72 models were built on castings made in '71, and early '74 models started with castings made in '73.
yeah thats why I was leaning towards a 74 but could it have been a previously cast block from before 72?
If you're sure it's a '73 model-year engine, then it's likely a 2-bolt. I haven't heard of any '72 or earlier 4-bolts showing up in later years, unless they were swapped in.
I kinda wonder how important it is to know if its a 2- or 4-bolt, though, except just for curiosity. 2-bolts are stronger. But both are plenty strong unless you're planning to push over 500 horses out of them, or consistently rev them high. Of course, if you're going that route, you'll be pulling the pan anyway.
I'm continuing the build on mine for 420+ horses and 530+ ft-lbs. My self-imposed red-line is 5500 rpm. Either bolt patter will handle that.
Well I would like to know more about my motor but dropping the pan isnt in the future right now. PLus I heard 2 bolt mains on a 400 are stronger than a 4 bolt, not sure. Wouldnt you like to know about your engine?
It's not the 2 or 4 bolt mains that matters on a 400, it's the block casting. The (usually 2 bolt) 509 has heavier main webbing than the (usually 4 bolt) 511. The actual number of bolts doesn't make any difference to strength in a streetable application. For any time that you'd actually need to know if it's was a 2 or 4 bolt block, you'd have the block apart at that point anyway.
there is no real way to tell... I bought my 84 camaro with a 350 and a 5 spd... they didnt make a 350 in 84 but the guy has reciepts to prove it. I guess its possible he bought a 350 and put it in a different car and gave me the reciepts and lying to me... but given the performance upgrades... I would say he is honest, just have to trust the seller and recieve proof is important.
I've found the easiest way to distinguish the difference is a 305, your oil dipstick will come out on the passenger side. 350's pop put on the driver's side. No doubt about it.
my block has 2 dipstick holes, one i had to put gasket over. Its a 4 bolt 350
i just recently bought a 87 camaro and it doesnt run due to starter, but the guy told me its a 350 and his friend checked the casting numbers and claimed its a 350 but i know the car came with a 305 and its really bugging me id really like to know if its a the stock carbed 305 or a swapped 350 carbed. im jw how i can find this out i know u can check the casting numbers but do i have to be under the car to find them or can i just look under the hood and where exactly would it be?
thats the site i use.... but the location....if its a pretty clean engine compartment. you should be able to see behind the distributer, and there are casting numbers, above the transmission on the little lip of the block right under the heads and intake. most likely it will be 7 or 8 numbers, then go to mortec.com and it has all the chevy info on blocks.and heads, if you wanna run those numbers too
. 
, I lost my younger brother at the age of 23 in 2002. 
