FAQ BoardThis board is where some of the most informative and helpful Frequently Asked Questions we get here at ThirdGen.Org are put for easier reference. This IS NOT a general question board.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Yeah they do, they just don't know it.
Double check for yourself though. Go to thier list of individual differential parts. It lists all the part numbers for each part they offer for the various rearends. The crush sleeve pn is the same for all of those rears including the 9 bolt. A solid pinion spacer replaces a crush sleeve.
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
Sponsored Links
Registered users do not see this ad. Click here to register for free!
Hey draino. One more quick question for you. The 4114 solid pinion spacer, it comes with shims, are they the severe duty shims or just normal ones? Thanks.
They're just shims for the spacer. The severe duty are seperate ones which go inplace of the regular pinion shims.
Another thing you might be interested in if you're gonna set this up yourself.
Reider racing sells setup pinion bearings that slide on and off easily. Should save alot of time and hassle when setting one up.
Parrydise7: Or waaaayyyy better than the Dana 44.....a 12 bolt. Mine finally arrived from Strange Friday. 33 spline axles, 3.90 Richmond gears, Detroit Tru-Trac, and a Chromoly 1350 yoke.
Just under $2100 with truck freight thru Tbyrne on their last gp they did.
For what people want for dana 44's anymore you should just save up and buy a 12 bolt or 9".
Just cause Dana's are rare people want a mint for them. They're not really worth it. I remember when you could find them on the classifieds here for 400-600. Ebay ruined that!
Does anyone know of a source for the axle vent? Mine has gone south and sprayed my exaust and chassis with gear oil saturday! GM has discontinued them...
__________________ Rest in peace my wonderful wife, Gina - 1969-2008
I miss you every day....
My updated CarDomain site! http://www.cardomain.com/id/murco1989
One-owner 1989 RS, ZZ4, Comp Cams valvetrain, Edelbrock headers and cat back, Astro performance T-5, Moser rear, Alpine/Infinity/Kicker strereo, and Recaro "Sport" seats. More coming soon!
on that gto 9-bolt..would gear sets interchange? i'm on the phone with pontiac trying to find out more on the rear but they are practically useless over the phone.
what do you guys know about the 9 bolt in the new gto? which parts are interchangable?
I think it ended up not getting a 9 bolt. It's got a newer design I believe. And it's IRS.
I think it was you I told in the other post where you can get 3.70's. That's you're only option unless you want to find a set of used 3.27's or 3.45's (good luck!).
yeah it was me..i'm just looking for less expensive options than $550 for a full kit.. thanks. I did locate a set of 3.70's locally for $300, I have to compare that with internet deals.
That should be about the going rate for 3.70's new. Call the other guys. Jeg's sells the U.S. Gear ones. They used to be the cheapest. Randy's probably is the cheapest now. Good luck.
The dealer will be the most expensive! That's if they still had them. 3.70's have been discontinued from GM for years now.
What thread pitch is the bolt for the carrier bearing cap? And if I was to get a stud for it instead of the bolt what length stud should I get? I looked in the parts book but I dont think it said what the bolts were just the part number.
Also what are the thread pitch for the yoke bolts? The ones that attach the straps to the yoke to hold the driveshaft U-joints in? Is the yoke for the 9 bolt interchangable with the 10 bolt? I would like to get a new yoke if I can but I doubt anyone makes an aftermarket yoke for the 9 bolt.
We are going to machine the first sample castings today or tomorrow. Let everyone know. The first few guys to put in there orders can have these. We will order enough castings to cover everyone who would like one. The price on all covers are going to be going up. But we will keep this cover at the old price to give all the folks that have been waiting for so long a chance to get one.
Sorry for the extended wait, but we seem to be at the finish line. To place an order you will have to call TA by phone, no e-mail.
480-922-6807
Mike Tomaszewski
TA Performance Products Inc.
Originally posted by drain89 They're just shims for the spacer. The severe duty are seperate ones which go inplace of the regular pinion shims.
Another thing you might be interested in if you're gonna set this up yourself.
Reider racing sells setup pinion bearings that slide on and off easily. Should save alot of time and hassle when setting one up.
I must have read this a hundred times and I never caught this reply befor but, the 9 bolt uses the shims under the bearing race. this is what most places call for when using there severe duty shims. so incase someone get the pinion shims and can/t figure out why they seem too big. this is why.
has anyone used the solid pinion spacer on the 9 bolt?
why cant we use one for a 10 bolt? the crush spacer is the same size and shape all the way around as the 10 bolt one.
My 9 bolt is out of the car rite now and I checked the posi and come up with between 35 to 40 ft lbs of torque until the axle slips. Is it time for a rebuild or shims or will this posi hold up for a while??
All this info is excellent and most helpful as my '83 Z28 has a BW 9 bolt disc posi rear.Even the aluminum special fuid use tag is till on it.Meaning more than likely the cover has never been off(she's showing 43K).I need to check the vent tube as I have some fluid on top of the case.My '95 Jimmy's front axle vent tube came off and did the same.
In swapping out my wheels I did drain89's torque test on my posi and it withstood the 80lb/ft that the wheels require.Also checked the code on axle tube and I have a 3.23 gear.
__________________ '06 Commander 5.7 Hemi,K&N CAI/Billet Specialty catch can
'83 Z/28 LU5 305 CFI/K&N/Factory Dual Electric Fans/MSD-Hypertech Coil/Performance Rebuilt 700R4/JG1/J65/G80/G92-3.23/Hollow 36mm front-24mm rear bar,TDS steering brace,16" single stripe IROC with Summitomo HTR-H4/T-tops/Pwr everything
'73 C-10 CST 454/TH400(Factory BB Truck)A/C,Tilt,12 Bolt Posi,Dynomax
Miss my '70 Monte Carlo SS454
anyone have any opinion on using yukon or motive gears ,,,do thay hold up or are they weak peices of you know what,,,curious because these gears are about half the price of strange or precicion gears,,,and i am thinking that pro street gears mite be a bit of overkill in my case,,,and am building this car on a tite budget,,,i have about a 400 horse 350 going through a bw t-5 and into the 9 bolt ,,,wanting to use 3:73 gears or more if i can find em,,,to heck with mileage,,i wanna go fast
ADDING STRENGTH TO A 9BOLT REAR:
This is what I've done to mine, my car is not finished so it hasn't been tested yet.
-Replace bearing cap bolts with ARP 190,000 psi cap screws. I ordered mine direct from ARP. Cost me like $15 for the 4 of them. Cheap insurance. You could use studs instead of bolts for slightly more strength. TA Performance will be offering a bearing cap stud kit soon.
-Ratech Solid Pinion Spacer 4114 instead of using crush sleeve.
-Ratech Severe Duty Pinion Shims 1133. Adds reliability plus makes changing gears easier.
-Dry Film Lubricant on ring and pinion as well as internal carrier gears. I used Tech Line brand and applied it myself. Just check with your wife first before using the oven to cure it.....trust me! Seriously though, it's cheap insurance and you can get it from Jegs or Summit.
-Check posi and shim/tighten if necessary.
-A support cover would be a great addition and I'm working with TA Performance to try to get one made. Hopefully soon!
-Another option is Moser Axles. You'll probably break the gears first, but if you think it's necessary....they'll make you a set. I didn't think they were worth it.
This is all the info I have to this point.
Good Luck! Dwain "Draino" Brammer
Anyone know the part number for the ARP bolts mentioned above?
Good luck on the ring gear bolts. I had to replace 2 of mine and no one absolutely no one has them. I ended up getting mine from diffsoultions.com and he said that was his last set. You probably won't be able to find any parts for this rear from autozone. I tried and all they had was the cover gasket and that was it. When I rebuilt mine I had to get parts from 3 different website sources to do the complete job. Parts are very scarce for these.
__________________ 81 camaro 350 ported & polished
85 iroc tpi 357 700r4 Sold!!!
05 GTO A4 fast as hell!!
08 Aveo 5 speed winter car
08 Ford edge toy hauler
Maybe its just me but i didn't see a listing for the 9 bolt on the ring gear bolts from ARP on that site. I did call ratech about 6 months ago for the ring gear bolts and they said they did not have them. Maybe they decided to stock them after that!!
ADDING STRENGTH TO A 9BOLT REAR:
-Replace bearing cap bolts with ARP 190,000 psi cap screws. I ordered mine direct from ARP. Cost me like $15 for the 4 of them.
.
----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoItsNotForSale
Anyone know the part number for the ARP bolts mentioned above?
The ARP link was to help NoItsNotForSale find the cap bolts. Not ring gear bolts. Ratech is now stocking those ring gear bolts. I just ordered bearings from them and almost got the bolts as well, but realized that I just don't have the time to service the posi while I'm in there, so there was no need.
Last edited by 87IROCZ350TPI; 07-23-2006 at 09:14 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
so what im getting from this is that the 9 bolt rears are actually stronger than the 10 bolts? I trashed my 10bolt doin a burnout on a wet road. i picked up a 9 bolt with 3.27gears and later thought that i should have invested in something a little stronger.
Overall, the 9-bolt is certainly stronger than the 10. The only downside to the 9-bolt is the lack of parts availability. Fortunately, that has begun to change. More and more suppliers are offering 9-bolt applications.
anyone have any opinion on using yukon or motive gears ,,,do thay hold up or are they weak peices of you know what,,,curious because these gears are about half the price of strange or precicion gears,,,and i am thinking that pro street gears mite be a bit of overkill in my case,,,and am building this car on a tite budget,,,i have about a 400 horse 350 going through a bw t-5 and into the 9 bolt ,,,wanting to use 3:73 gears or more if i can find em,,,to heck with mileage,,i wanna go fast
Might as well buy the cheap ones, I have used all of them (3.70's) and they are all the same "loud whine" it says so on the box, of all them.
I think there must be one manufacturer and they all rebox them.
They also call them 3.73's but they are 3.70's (10-37) 3.73's are 11-41 that would make them stronger (one extra tooth on the pinion).
I'm thinking about buying a set and sending them to "Mikronite" for treatment.
It a dumb question but how remove the axlex .I read that the axles are retained by plates .Wich plates? do it refert to the bearing cap?
The bearing caps do not hold the axles in at all, and there are no c-clips on the 9-bolts. The plates are located at the wheels. If you remove your wheels, you will see four bolts at the end of the axle tubes. One bolt on each corner of a rectangular plate. If you remove your brake assemblies and these bolts, the axles slide right out. Just keep in mind that once you remove one axle, do not rotate the other, or the splines will apparently be very difficult to reallign.
Do you have to use the GM limited slip additive in the BW 9 bolt posi rear?
Ive always wondered this to cause I read somewhere before that u didnt have to in 9-bolts, because im gonna be changing my fluid soon, and have never been able to find an answer for this I dont see why it would hurt thought to add it???
Ive always wondered this to cause I read somewhere before that u didn't have to in 9-bolts, because I'm gonna be changing my fluid soon, and have never been able to find an answer for this I don't see why it would hurt thought to add it???
To use or not to use this additive, that's the question, it's very confusing, some say use it, others say don't....
(I still use it, even with Castrol synthetic axle oil....)
The bearing caps do not hold the axles in at all, and there are no c-clips on the 9-bolts. The plates are located at the wheels. If you remove your wheels, you will see four bolts at the end of the axle tubes. One bolt on each corner of a rectangular plate. If you remove your brake assemblies and these bolts, the axles slide right out. Just keep in mind that once you remove one axle, do not rotate the other, or the splines will apparently be very difficult to reallign.
I know I am bringing this up from the dead, but I removed the 4 nuts and my axles still aren't sliding out. Am I doing something wrong?
__________________
88 Firebird Formula 350 87k milesDD 13.1 @ 105... 1.8 60ft
Aiming for 12's as is Superram- Trickflow AL Heads- Powermax 2012 Cam
but I didn't see the axle flange adapter in that small picture on their website. it could be one of the unnamed accessories. I'm sure you could rig something up with chain and hooks and lugnuts.
the 2lb slide hammer might work, but doesn't have as much grunt as the 13lb slide. I think it came out with 2 or 3 whacks with the 13 pounder.
I also have the smaller 2lb ones, but I use those for pulling the front pumps out of transmissions.
the camaro
. i picked up a 9 bolt with 3.27gears and later thought that i should have invested in something a little stronger. 
