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I've got an 89 110 MPH speedo cluster. There is a "problem" with the spinning section of the speedometer gauge. To describe the problem for you,...... If the cluster was installed it would sound as if the cable had a crimp in it - but the problem is the rotating section of the speedo gauge. ( I think this piece is the magnet itself but didn't verify it to be ! ) It sounds like it needs greased....
After resetting the odometer to '0' & repairing the busted Trip meter, I removed the "magnet" section of the gauge and replaced it with another one. I do not know if the replacement "magnet" was from an 85 MPH Speedo cluster or another 110 cluster - it was in my speedo parts bag.
My question: Is the "magnet" section of the speedo gauge the same in all 82-89 speedo gauges ??
I have the cluster fully reassembled and I will test it once my current project is road worthy, but wanted to see if you knew what the results of swapping that "magnet" would be. ( It may be a while before the project is ready for the road ! ) I'm GUESSING that the speedo rating is based on the Spring mechanism that the speedo needle is mounted to. Is that correct ??
Since I have your ear - Another question:
How do you verify the speedo needle is placed on a 90-92 speedometer correctly after it has been removed ??
Last edited by John in RI : 01-10-2008 at 07:07 PM.
Reason: :driving:
Thanks JamesC. You've been a big help. Lastly, while I've got my cluster out, can I swap my 115 cable-driven speedo to the 145 without any other modifications? Basically when I swap, will the needle calibration be right, so if the speedo shows 55mph, I'm really rolling at 55mph?
while I've got my cluster out, can I swap my 115 cable-driven speedo to the 145 without any other modifications? Basically when I swap, will the needle calibration be right, so if the speedo shows 55mph, I'm really rolling at 55mph?
Yes, you can swap without modification (if I were you I'd only swap the speedo head itself, providing your original cluster functioned as designed, and perhaps save yourself problems with electrical gremlins). The speedo will read correctly if you haven't changed rear end gearing--ie. if it reads correctly now, it'll read correctly after the swap..
yeah, i was planning on only changing the speedo itself, not the whole cluster. I read somebody's post saying they changed the whole cluster and ran into electrical problems. Anyways, thanks for the input. I finally solved my speedo problem, it actually was the speed-cable. It had sheered right in half at the transmission!!! How funny that was. yeah right. Well thanks again JamesC.
I have a question before I take the time to pull my dash apart...
My trip meter stays a 00000.0, I can see the .0 moving just about ready to click to .1 and it snaps back to .0. Will this correct the problem or is my gearing shot in the trip meter. I didn't want to tear it all apart if I'm just waisting my time, I'd rather replace it all then...
As I mention above, if your trip won't resent, partially resets, jumps, tics or pops, it's because the axel isn't seated, meaning one or both of the lower J clips is broken or substantially weakened. If there are other reasons for the above, I haven't found them.
The fix is simple: Without taking the speedo head apart, turn it around to the backside and "wire up." I cut 5 inches of wire, made a noose at both ends (I bent the wire to form a "U", placed one jaw of a needle nose at the bottom of the "U" and used pliers to twist the wire around the needle jaw to form the nooses). I placed the nooses over the axels, then twisted the slack in the center of the 5 inches to tighten the whole business. Push in on the reset while you're doing this so that the axel will be seated--just makes things easier. The wire, of course, replaces the J clips and seats the axel so that it is stationary. By the way, I tried 22-guage wire first, but it was too heavy and difficult to work with. I also attempted cauter keys, but I couldn't get the axel to seat to my satisfaction. I ended up using a very flexible piece of solid core, $.09 a foot. The fix is not as neat looking as I would have prefered, but the odometer functions like new, and frankly I don't think I'll ever have further problems with it.
JamesC
I fixed one of mine in a similar fashion. I took a long finish nail and a couple of thin zip ties to do the job. I looped the zip ties around the trip meter axle and used the nail as an anchor for the zip ties. Seated the axle nicely and the trip meter increments and resets normally.
The best way to get slack in the speedo cable is to remove all the cluster bolts/screws, then remove the cable stay clip located under the hood. Its under the steering shaft. My car has headers and the best tool to use was a 1/4in. ratchet and 10mm. deep socket. slide the cable up the rail and place it behind the rag joint cover. This should give you enough slack to remove the cable from the gauge by your finger tips. Repair the gauge,reinstall the cable, then pop the other end out from behind th joint cover. That should make it easier to finish installation.
ok so i fixed it like you said and now my trip goes 11111 to 22222 and then stops and i reset it and it does the same again what else could be wrong?
This is exactly what happens to mine after I "fixed" it?It's out of an 86 IROC.TIA
Actually it goes all one's.then all two's.three's and stops at all 4's
__________________ 86 IROC R.I.P. 02/04/07 Over 20 yrs of enjoyment... reborn as an 89 IROC with upgrades like HSR,XR282 cam,AFR 190 heads,Random Tech cat-back etc
Last edited by IROCZ4BD3 : 03-08-2008 at 04:09 PM.
It sounds like the gears are a little bound up. Try toggling the trip reset stud a bit. Sometimes that can help shake things loose. Just don't get all wild with the thing, you don't want to break something. If that doesn't work you may need to pull the cluster back out and make sure that when you put the thing together the first time that everything was properly lined up. Remember that when you secured the rod, that you are going for snug, not white knuckle tight. If you end up needing to pull it out, after you have it in your hands, spin the cable connector by your finger tips, you won't put that many tenths of a mile on, and you will be able to see where its misaligned, or maybe not tightened down anymore. Sometimes the first try is just that. The first try.
No, you won't have to recalibrate anything, unless you have some sort of aftermarket digital dash. Just remember the whole gauge cluster comes out together, then you can remove the speedo from the cluster, but your indicating needles will be exposed, and the slightest bump or wrong way pressure will break them off.
Is it possibly to remove the needle from the speedo? I want to paint the underside of the face white and install new gauge faces on the front side. Can I just pull it out or what is the proper removal and re-installation procedure?
Is it possibly to remove the needle from the speedo?
Yes, but I've heard too many horror stories--breaking 20-year-old plastic, bending the pin that the needle mounts to, recalibrating the needle so that the speedo reads correctly--to recommend it.
