NBrehm

Well I'm in the market for a house now, and getting married soon and starting a family so I've decided to part ways with my Trans Am. The car itself is a triple black WS6 with red stripes, T-top car. It was originally an M6 car but is an A4 for now, no shortcuts taken, trans is 100% computer controlled still. The engine has less then 3000 miles on it, more on that soon, trans has roughly 3200 on it. Body has 40,000 on it but the car has been garage kept it's whole life. Paint is a 9 out of 10, there are a couple minor blemishes but looks very good especially considering it is black. Now for the list of mods:

Engine
-Rapid motorsports Dominator 346CI blueprinted engine
-New LS6 block
-New LS1 crank
-Scat Forged H-beam rods
-Diamond forged pistons 11.5:1 C/R
-Childs Albert plasma moly rings
-Clevite bearings
-ARP main studs
-ARP rod bolts
-LS6 valley pan/pcv
-Morley lifters
-Rollmaster double row timing chain
-Ported LS6 oil pump
-Cometic head gaskets
-ARP head studs
-Chromoly pushrods
-Rapid motorsports Dominator cam 228/230 .588/.591 114LSA
-Trickflow 215CC heads
-Dual valve springs
-Titanium retainers
-Harland sharp 1.7 rockers
-Katech valve covers w/ coil relocation kit
-Catch can

Intake:
-SLP lid
-K&N filter
-Z06 MAF
-NW 90MM T/B, black anodized
-FAST 90MM Intake
-Katech valve covers w/ coil relocation kit
-Catch can

Fuel:
-Racetronix 255LPH pump
-FAST Aluminum fuel rails
-Ractronix 42LB/hr injectors

Drivetrain:
-Phoenix transmissions 4l60ESX (http://phoenixtrans.com/html/gmtrans.html)
-Phoenix trans 2500-2700 HD stall
-Spohn HD 3.5" Steel driveshaft
-Moser 12 Bolt, 33 Spline axles, eaton Posi, T/A girdle, ABS

Exhaust:
-Kooks 1 7/8" Longtube headers
-Kooks Y-pipe with Magnaflow CATS
-Stainless Works chambered cat back

Chassis:
-BMR X-treme STB, red powdercoated
-Spohn Chromoly SFC, red powdercoat
-BMR Tourque relocation kit/trans crossmember, red powdercoat
-UMI driveshaft loop, red powdercoat
-Baer Eradispeed rotors NEW EBC red stuff pads up front, hawk pads out back
-SLP linelock
-Earls stainless steel braided lines

Suspension:
-Spohn Chromoly sway bars, red powdercoat
-BMR non-adjustable torque arm, red powdercoat
-Spohn non-adjustable chromoly LCA's, red powdercoat
-Spohn non-adjustable panhard bar, red powdercoat

Safety:
-S&W 8 point roll bar
-RCI Platinum 6 point harnesses (2 years left on cert, includes card for free 2 year re-cert)
-Fire extinguisher

Interior:
-Harland shift light
-Blackbird Gauges
-Autometer ultralite Fuel pressure gauge
-Autometer Ultralite Trans temp gauge
-Autometer Ultralite A/F gauge (not hooked up, harness and O2 sensor included).
-Infinity Speakers

-California car company car cover is included
-Extra set of 16" Trans Am wheels included for track tires or sell seperately

Only things the car needs is to have the shift points tuned and I never patched the hole where the clutch master was, apart from that the car runs awesome and is available to drive in the newburgh NY area. I had it at the track once since the new engine and was severly limited by the nitto drag radials I had. Best run was a 12.21 @ 115.85 MPH, and that was on a 2.285 60Ft time, so with some good tires there is alot more there. More specific info available on request. I am sure I forgot stuff so ask me questions!

I have over $50,000 invested in the car (not including the car), more then $30,000 in just parts, asking $19,500 but all reasonable offers will be entertained. Also willing to partial trade for a clean 3rd Gen 5Spd, bird or work a deal for an 89TTA

nelapse

You must be in serious need of a tune. Low 12's with those mods?
That should be a 10 second car. I have seen LS1's hit 11's with just full exhaust and Cam.

NBrehm

Finish reading, only had drag radials and cut a 2.285 60 Ft Time. When I had slicks it was hittin 1.5's so that is .7, almost .8 right there. Because it is fully optioned and weighs alot (3890 Lbs with me and a 1/4 tank) I am guessing about 11.3 @ 117 or so. I could have put in a huge cam and a 4000 Stall and run mid 10's but I was shooting for a car that is driveable on the street and gets more then 3 MPG. The tune is just fine except the shift points and they would be done but I didn't have a chassis Mt torque arm at the time and didn't want to risk snapping the tailshaft of te trans off. When I was running with just a cam and slicks it went 11.7 @ 112 and it has close to 50 more RWH now.

nelapse

My bad. I thought you needed a tune, didn't know you couldn't drive.

NBrehm

WTF is your problem? Grow up. If I wanted your opinion I would ask, this is a for sale thread.

nelapse

My problem is that you are saying you have a 12 second car. I know that car could hit high 10's.

You are selling yourself short, and while I was being nice at first, I do not take your lippiness lightly when I am trying to help you out.

So instead of posting a 12 second slip time just say

"with a better driver this car will do 10's"

because it will. It's your car, do what you want.

Anyways, good luck though.

LoudmouthSS

nelapse..take it easy

he drove it 12's...so he isnt lying about that. Its got the potential to go faster..every car is different. You can't just look at a mod list and say "that will go 10s"...there are too many factors. Its a for sale thread, not a tech one. The cars done 12's and there is proof of this.

Good luck with the sale, its a great looking car

LoudmouthSS

that aside...what kinda gas mileage are you getting?

I got a friend here in florida with a 94 vorteched gt he's looking to get rid of and purchase a trans am. Your's is everything he wants for the most part..aside from being an auto. Might be making a trip to NY...i miss home anyway

NBrehm

I'm sick of people telling me what the car should do while I am trying to sell it. I know it is faster then 12.2, the 115 MPH trap speed tells me that, but I'm not going to claim anything I haven't done on a hunch. With a 2500 stall, small cam and a 3800+# race weight it isn't going 10's unless you had picture perfect weather and are running at cecil with a good tailwind, the car wasn't built for getting every last 10th at the track, it was built to be liveable on the street and "good" a the track. Even the best driver in the world isn't going to get the car to hook with tires that aren't sticky enough, it has nothing to do with my driving ability and every thing to do with tire selection. If you come out hard you spin to a poor 60', and if you ease out of it to get it to hook you still get a poor 60'. I f'ed up and picked the wrong tires, that is the only mistake I made now please let's let it go, if I want advice on my driving techniques I am not going to post it in the for sale section.
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Thank you, car has actually gone 11's and I have proof of that, just not on the current set-up
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It really depends on how heavy your foot is. When I take it easy it gets around 19 city and 23 highway. Absolute worst I've gotten out of it is 16 and that was at the racetrack. There could be alot more with just a rear gear change, the 4.10's with the auto really kill it on the highway but since I don't driv it that much it doesn't really bother me. I understand about the A4 thing, I would prefer to still have my T56 but it was just getting too expensive to keep replacing parts on them. Even when D&D built my last one it only made it a year. I do miss the standard sometimes though

NBrehm

Update: New track times, still needs shift points set to be perfect but borrowed some slicks and skinnies
new time
60Ft 1.498
1/4 11.44 @ 118

The temp was 81, 44% humidity, 3844# race weight, track altitude 606FT ASL

tony1784

PM sent

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