Factory power antenna quality?
#1
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 346 LS6
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Hybrid 8.8 3.73
Factory power antenna quality?
Hi
My car had a power antenna factory once apon a time. but now i just have the base antenna. I have heard that the factory antennas were notorious for breaking.
I would like to get another power antenna. Should i go with a factory or aftermarket one?
Speed
My car had a power antenna factory once apon a time. but now i just have the base antenna. I have heard that the factory antennas were notorious for breaking.
I would like to get another power antenna. Should i go with a factory or aftermarket one?
Speed
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
If your motor still works I highly suggest u get the antanaee repair kit.
If u opt to get the motor it is no longer a specific fit for our cars and it looks like crap. It now fits like 20 diff GM cars/trucks.
Always litely lubing the ant mast will increase life greatly after cleaning.
later
Jeremy
If u opt to get the motor it is no longer a specific fit for our cars and it looks like crap. It now fits like 20 diff GM cars/trucks.
Always litely lubing the ant mast will increase life greatly after cleaning.
later
Jeremy
#6
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 346 LS6
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Hybrid 8.8 3.73
hi
my rpos say i had one
but not anymore. I would like to get another one. i was wondering whether factory gm dealer is better than aftermarket?
Speed
my rpos say i had one
but not anymore. I would like to get another one. i was wondering whether factory gm dealer is better than aftermarket?
Speed
#7
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 346 LS6
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Hybrid 8.8 3.73
are you aying that i should go to a junkyard.. get a factory one and buy the reapir kit over buying new gm?
Speed
Speed
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#12
The plastic cable is usually what breaks in the originals. From what I understand, the repro GM's have issues. If you have a good original assembly the GM repair kit is the way to go. You have to drill out the housing rivets and remove the old broken cable which is attached to the top antenna mast (the skinny section). Note: if the lower portion of the mast assembly is broken (the fatter part of the mast) you can't rebuild the unit. Overall, these things are a big pain in the butt. That's why I got a no-muss, no-fuss original style stationary mount.
#17
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Car: 1992 Arctic White Z28 Convertible
Engine: LB9 305 cid TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: B-W 7.75" 3.73
Power Antenna Maintenance and Care
Be careful to NEVER use engine oil on fine parts (like the overlapping sections of a power antenna mast). 90 times out of 100 these things break because dirt builds up on the overlapping sections of the antenna mast creating more friction than the system is designed to see. This leads to the eventual failure of either the drive cable or the drive gear (both plastic) due to their inability to overcome the resistance created by the contamination on the overlapping mast sections (the same will happen if any of the individual sections become bent). Engine oils attract dirt and debris when exposed to the outside environment (especially since your antenna gets smacked by everything kicked-up on the road by traffic in front of you) and is not suitable for use on antenna sections. Use only an extremely light duty lubricant/cleaner like WD-40 because you’re really not trying to lubricate the mast sections as much as keep them clean of debris and grime. I’ve had 5 Gm cars all with power antennas and have yet to replace/repair a single antenna since I’ve been using WD-40 to keep them clean (and lightly lubricated). I received this advice directly from GM’s SOP (standard operating procedure) manual used by service techs @ GM’s Milford proving grounds and it’s served me well for over 20 years of power antenna use. Rule of thumb with power antenna masts: keep them clean and only LIGHTLY lubricated. After all, you don’t want your power antenna mast to become a dirt magnet by using heavy lubricants.
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Car: 92RS 25th Anniv./88 IROC Z28 Vert
Engine: 305 TBI w/Tpi Air / 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4/700r4
Axle/Gears: Posi
If I don't have one and want to install one do I have to remove the fender to install?
Last edited by 86NiteRider; 08-17-2006 at 03:14 AM.
#20
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Car: 2000 Corvette FRC
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M6
Its not a big thing, fenders are probably the easiest body panel to get off.
#22
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Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I've been using a light film of Marvel Mystery oil on my mast for 12 years now on the advice of my local GM dealer.Although slightly tweaked,it still works great.........now the rest of the sound system,thats a different story!!
...........................BILL
...........................BILL
#23
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Car: 1992 Arctic White Z28 Convertible
Engine: LB9 305 cid TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: B-W 7.75" 3.73
No. On a Camaro, you can go in through the passenger-side fenderwell (I suspect the same is true for the Firebirds as well). You'll have to remove the plastic fender liner which will require the removal of the plastic push-pins that hold the fender liner to the wheel well flange (remember to pick up some extra push-pins because you'll likely ruin most, if not all, of them when removing the fender liner). Once the fender liner is removed, the power antenna fits right in the space between the fender and the A-pillar apron (which is what the door hinges are screwed to). The antenna attaches at the top with a bushing and threaded retainer ring that threads onto the antenna housing from the top of the fender (painted side) and at the bottom with an "L" bracket that is screwed into an existing hole in the lower fender apron. Please note that GM no longer makes a direct-replacement power antenna for third-generation cars (they sell one under the same GM service part number, but it’s a generic antenna which takes a lot of cobbling to make work) so your best bet is to find one at a bone yard off a third-gen Firebird or Camaro and rebuild it before installing it onto your car.
#24
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You'll have to remove the plastic fender liner which will require the removal of the plastic push-pins that hold the fender liner to the wheel well flange (remember to pick up some extra push-pins because you'll likely ruin most, if not all, of them when removing the fender liner)
JamesC
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