History / RestorationGot a question about Third Gen (1982-1992) Camaro or Firebird history? Where can I find these original parts? What is this option or RPO code? Those questions, answers, and more!
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The quarter is completely welded...after 3 days of cutting, welding and grinding the welds back down it was a pain. I used the tail light to make sure the rear of the quarter was lined up. We put the hatch back on and it lines up perfect. I also had to weld up the old spoiler holes. The inner part of the quarter is all coated with Chassis Saver.
Well..... I just spent more then what I payed for the car on suspension and chassis upgrades...
From Top Down Solutions
Alsotns Subframe Conectors
Deluxe door hinge repair kit
From Spohn
Front end rebuild kit with ball joints
Bilstein HD front struts
Bilstein HD rear shocks
Tubular Sub frame connectors....yes I am going to run both
Adjustable panhard bar Red with poly bushing
Eibach Pro Kit springs
Poly trans mount
Poly front A arm bushings
Poly front swaybar end links
36 mm Poly front sway bar bushings
Poly rear end link bushings
24 mm Poly rear sway bar bushings
Poly rear LCA bushings
I was going to just buy the Poly kit from Spohn but the front end rebuild kit will come with new boots for the tie rod ends and the ball joints. The panhard bar will also have new poly bushings in it. I saved a little doing it this way...no since in doubling up on the stuff.
I still plan on upgrading the front brakes before its back on the road. I am thinking C5 brakes. Does anyone know if they will fit under the 16 inch wheels?
Well..... I just spent more then what I payed for the car on suspension and chassis upgrades...
From Top Down Solutions
Alsotns Subframe Conectors
Deluxe door hinge repair kit
From Spohn
Front end rebuild kit with ball joints
Bilstein HD front struts
Bilstein HD rear shocks
Tubular Sub frame connectors....yes I am going to run both
Adjustable panhard bar Red with poly bushing
Eibach Pro Kit springs
Poly trans mount
Poly front A arm bushings
Poly front swaybar end links
36 mm Poly front sway bar bushings
Poly rear end link bushings
24 mm Poly rear sway bar bushings
Poly rear LCA bushings
I was going to just buy the Poly kit from Spohn but the front end rebuild kit will come with new boots for the tie rod ends and the ball joints. The panhard bar will also have new poly bushings in it. I saved a little doing it this way...no since in doubling up on the stuff.
I still plan on upgrading the front brakes before its back on the road. I am thinking C5 brakes. Does anyone know if they will fit under the 16 inch wheels?
I wish I would have known, I have a set of the Pro Kit springs and Alston subframe connectors...
I wish I would have known, I have a set of the Pro Kit springs and Alston subframe connectors...
I knew as soon as I posted this someone would say they had some of this stuff. Do you want to sell the stuff? Maybe I could cancel part of my order. Why arent you using any of it?
I knew as soon as I posted this someone would say they had some of this stuff. Do you want to sell the stuff? Maybe I could cancel part of my order. Why arent you using any of it?
My car is all original and while I was going to use these parts, I decided I'd rather finish my Chevelle after being apart 20 years.
The Alstons are new in the box and the Pro Kit had the rear springs installed with a few scratches but nothing major.Don't really think they were used, just installed under a project car is my guess. Fronts are still new. Also have a new KB strut brace I'm selling too that is in the for sale section. I can send pictures later tonight if you'd like.
__________________ Thanks!
Tony Z
1970 SS396 Chevelle with a 580 BBC
1974 Corvette Convertible
1992 Camaro B4C (SOLD)
1993 Firehawk
1998 Kawasaki ZX-9R
1997 Mazda Millenia
Great job man amazing work, Your diligence lets me know how lazy i really am. Well winter is coming so i have an excuse, but good luck to you, keep us posted.
Made a little progress this weekend. I got the wheel wells stripped of undercoating, my last rust hole in the drivers rocker fixed, and just got some Epoxy primer on it about an hour ago.
The car looks soooooo good in that primer. LOL. no really it does!
It ought too its some high dollar stuff! I had some problems spraying it at first...I had to small of a tip on my gun. Went to a larger tip and it was a lot better. I checked on it this morning and its good and hard...ready to start sanding.
Well, it looks like you've been real busy since my last visit. You've done a great job so far and in very little time. Will it be done by Thanksgiving? Been meaning to drop by and have a look see. Is this what's in store for the Blazer too.....a complete strip-down?
Are you still working 60 hours a week AND doing this at night?
Will try to swing by Thursday to check on it.
One more thing....you're not going to use the spoiler? I always liked the spoiler on those 1991's.....makes them more identifiable.
It ought too its some high dollar stuff! I had some problems spraying it at first...I had to small of a tip on my gun. Went to a larger tip and it was a lot better. I checked on it this morning and its good and hard...ready to start sanding.
How long can you leave a car in primer before you have to paint it. I am thinking of putting the car in primar over winter but not sure if i will have money read to paint during spring.
what primer did you use epoxy , etching etc...I dont even know what the difference is of the two .
Well, it looks like you've been real busy since my last visit. You've done a great job so far and in very little time. Will it be done by Thanksgiving? Been meaning to drop by and have a look see. Is this what's in store for the Blazer too.....a complete strip-down?
Are you still working 60 hours a week AND doing this at night?
Will try to swing by Thursday to check on it.
One more thing....you're not going to use the spoiler? I always liked the spoiler on those 1991's.....makes them more identifiable.
Well look who it is! Whats up man? come on by, the wife will be in Etown most of the week so you can bring the truck by if you want. I am back to 8 hour days and have cut back to working on the car a couple nights a week and one day on the weekends. I am keeping the same spoiler just changing the glass. I havent touched the Blazer.....
How long can you leave a car in primer before you have to paint it. I am thinking of putting the car in primar over winter but not sure if i will have money read to paint during spring.
what primer did you use epoxy , etching etc...I dont even know what the difference is of the two .
any insight would be great
Etching is mainly if you are going to take it down to bare metal. It etches the metal to make it stick. The epoxy can be put over bare metal and existing paint. Since I am not taking to whole car down to bare metal I went with the epoxy. I sanded all the bare metal with 80 gritt paper on a DA.
You can also do your body work/body filler on the epoxy primer. So get it to bare metal, sand 80 grit, apply primer, do your body work, prime again....etc then paint
Have you ever had your car upside down? Mine is right now! I wish I would have put it on the Rotisserie before I started doing any welding. This is going to make everything so sweet to get to. I am going to go back and touch up a few spot that I have already done since they are so easy to get to now. Check it out.
It wasn't very easy getting this thing on the rotisserie by myself....I used my engine hoist to pic one end of the car at a time.
93chevytbi I got all this done after you left.....I stayed out in the garage till midnight!
How long after I left did you get it loaded up? You ought to leave the garage door open a couple days just to see people drive by, look at a car upside down, and go "WTF?!!" The looks alone would be worth it.
finally got that rear end out!!
As I said...be safe. Lifting a whole damn car upside with no one around.....some weird sh!t could happen.
Midnight, huh? Damn,...that's a long night having to go to work the next day.
For everyone's info....I DO get a test drive on this come spring.
This weekends progress....Cleaned up the bottom of the car with some purple power and a pressure washer. It had gear oil slung everywhere from a leaky pinion seal and it all came off. I was really happy with how clean it came. The surface rust was not as bad as I thought so I decided not sand blast.
We got the drivers side floor ready for paint, so I went ahead and paint the areas where the SFC's where going to go. I am running 2 sets, Alstons and Spohns. They worked out really nice together.
Some of my better welding...anyone that has welded on these cars knows that a lot of the metal is galvanized and does not weld good at all unless you get it really clean.
yeah....frame reinforcements? just like what the other guy said. You never mentioned that was in the works...good idea though considering it'll be pushing 500+ hp. You want this to be a driver, right? Are you gonna install a roll cage too or leave that out? Reinforcements under the body won't hurt anything but a cage will hurt the limited space available in the back seat for Ms. Princess.
You said you'd like to have it done by spring. At your current rate, it'll be done way before then.
Oh, and I didn't wanna bother with the truck's TCC b/c you were obviously busy. Let me know whenever you have the opportunity to chill and drink a few to do a scan on it. Nov will be booked for hunting though.
And I can't pass it up...."pic of my ugly ***"...your words, not mine, heh heh.
BTW: give me a call when you start spraying base and clear....I'd like to watch if you don't mind. I'll bring the beer..that lime in a can wasn't close to lime in a bottle.....it was just like pure lime.
yeah....frame reinforcements? just like what the other guy said. You never mentioned that was in the works...good idea though considering it'll be pushing 500+ hp. You want this to be a driver, right? Are you gonna install a roll cage too or leave that out? Reinforcements under the body won't hurt anything but a cage will hurt the limited space available in the back seat for Ms. Princess.
You said you'd like to have it done by spring. At your current rate, it'll be done way before then.
Oh, and I didn't wanna bother with the truck's TCC b/c you were obviously busy. Let me know whenever you have the opportunity to chill and drink a few to do a scan on it. Nov will be booked for hunting though.
And I can't pass it up...."pic of my ugly ***"...your words, not mine, heh heh.
BTW: give me a call when you start spraying base and clear....I'd like to watch if you don't mind. I'll bring the beer..that lime in a can wasn't close to lime in a bottle.....it was just like pure lime.
I will give you a call when I start doing body work....I will teach you how to sand....
Looking good, very nice work. its rare to see someone doing things the right way, especially on a third-gen. My new toy is about to go under the knife, it needs new inner and outer rockers, firewall, 1pc floorpan etc
Looking good, very nice work. its rare to see someone doing things the right way, especially on a third-gen. My new toy is about to go under the knife, it needs new inner and outer rockers, firewall, 1pc floorpan etc
Thanks, thats a nice looking SS. I picked a thirdgen because they are in my price range right now....cheap . And I can afford to spend some money on one to make a nice car. I thought I was going to build a nice driver, but I may end up with a show car.
Plus when these cars start to go up in value...hopfully. I will have a pretty nice car worth something.
Thanks, it has a lot of rust that has to be fixed, the person that had it beore me did not no what they were doing to say the least. I think you picked one of the best looking years of the thidgens to start with.
I see you are running a T56, I have a spoon adjustible torq arm and a spoon t56 crossmember that mounts the torq arm to the cross-member instead of the trans. I dont need the parts anymore, let me know if you are interested.
Thanks, it has a lot of rust that has to be fixed, the person that had it beore me did not no what they were doing to say the least. I think you picked one of the best looking years of the thidgens to start with.
I see you are running a T56, I have a spoon adjustible torq arm and a spoon t56 crossmember that mounts the torq arm to the cross-member instead of the trans. I dont need the parts anymore, let me know if you are interested.
Thanks, I havent really looked into those adjustable tourque arms and dont really know the benefit of them....I will do some reaserch and let you know.
I like the cam choice in your TA, I was thinking of running the Comp 07-468-8 XFI 292 in my 400. I had the 07-467-8 XFI 280 in my 383 Vette.
Got the other SFC's welded in. Been working in the wheel wells, sanding and scraping under coating off. Mostly tedious time consuming stuff. I have the drivers rear and passenger front wheel wells painted. Once the bottom is all painted with Chassis Saver I am going to scuff it and then spray on bed-liner.
I envy you, i really do lol. I can only dream of doing this to my 91 Z28 some day. Awesome work, keep the photos coming
you are not alone. I wish I could half of what he can do....seriously. Besides painting and body work, he can build motors/trannies, do DYI tbi and MPFI tuning, carpentry, and fabrication. He's a jack-of-all-trades in every meaning of the term. He has no worries when it comes to opportunities. If the economy knocked him down, he has at least half a dozen things he can do at the drop of a hat.
Could you post up some nice pictures of how and where you attached the Rotisserie to the car ? did you have to take the bumber supports off? kinda confused on how you did the rears .
I just used 3/8 plate with a 1 1/2 box tube welded to that to adapt to the rotisserie.
I drilled holes in the plate and bolted it straight to the car where the bumpers normally go. 4 holes on each side front and back.....pretty simple. There does not seem to be any stress on the car at all. The shell doesn't really weigh that much.
Not much progress, actually taking a few steps back.....The Chassis Saver didn't stick to the bare metal areas I had. Like one section of a wheel well I had stripped with chemical striper. If the bare metal is not scratched up it wont stick. Basically smooth stock bare steel needs to be scratched up. I found this out because I went to seam seal in the wheel wells and found that the seam seal will not stick to the Chassis Saver. I started to sand the Chassis Saver in the seams and it just started to peel flake off. My Spohn SFC's are also bare smooth steel so it just flake off them too...I am pretty pissed.
I have my house tore apart right now too so I have to concentrate on that, but when I get back on it I may be cutting out the Spohn SFC's and sand blasting the bottom of the car, then spraying with the Epoxy primer then the bed liner. The Spohn SFC'c are coated all the way around with Chassis Saver, there is no way to get it off with them on the car....
Keep up the good work can wait to see her finsihed.
Tony.
Thanks, not much progress.....I have been installing new flooring in my house. I just got it done last night so I may get a chance to work on the car tomorrow.
If my knees and back start feeling better that is....
1991 Z28 L98 700r4
