InteriorDiscussion about interior restoration, repairs, and modification.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
And by older rocker trim Im assuming you mean the 82 rocker trim that didnt have the lower retractor??
If you are asking what I think you are...then you have three solutions in my opinion.
A) You leave it be and just accept the gap.
B) Take that cover from your stock reciever. Put the drivers side on the passenger side, and visa versa. Use the little bolt access hole that normally has a cover on it, to pass the lower part of the 4th gen belt through. (My personal choice)
C) Make something totally one off to hide it all.
Is that what you were asking?? Wish I had pictures of how I did option B on my 87... I keep meaning to take pictures and all.
yes thats what i was asking, the 82's didnt have the medium grey trim, i have the old retractor covers on just loose, i tried to epoxy them to the rest of the trim, that did not work neither.
Because its better than leaving the ugly hole that you can see carpet and wires through...atleast in my opinion. The "ugly" cover isnt the reason I switched to 4th gen belts anyway. I switched because the thirdgen belts suck. Its not like you are putting the "retractor" back in. Its just more of a vanity cover.
They work if you switch sides because that little flap that opens up to expose the bolt points to the rear in the stock form. When you switch them, that opening is to the front, allowing the lower mount of the belt to point forward and come through it. The place where they mate up to the rocker cover has the same profile on both sides.
It takes a bit of messing with to get them to sit the way they should. Just gotta be creative. I didnt glue mine. When I do my 86 Ill do a write up on it. Not gonna be for awhile due to the crappy weather...but Ill do one.
ssean92, I have a suggestion for your installation. The metal bracket that you have the seatbelt mount bolted to is actually just a 90* bracket that's bolted into the unibody. You can remove that bracket and bolt your seatbelt loop in place of it (it will be vertical instead of horizontal. The 82 cars originally had them installed this way (with no retractors) and I have to believe that the 90* bracket was added in 83 due to the addition of the bottom retractor. Eliminating that bracket can make for a cleaner installation and is also the way they are designed to be mounted in 4th gens.
I did the same thing with mine, the bracket you are using is removeable. just remove the bolts holding it in place and then use the lower bolthole to mount your 4th gen belts. I also used the retractor cover to make the install look OEM. I drilled out the rivets holding it to the retractor assembly and then fabbed up a couple of small brackets that hold the cover to the sill plate. Granted, if I ever have to remove either of them will be a little more involved but I think the finished product is well worth a few extra minutes in disassembly/reassembly time.
Just curious, I'm pretty sure you can't buy the 82 sill plates in repro yet can you? Any leads on a good used set.
I'm looking at mine and trying to figure out a way to do it, I like the idea of not using the retractor covers but I don't like the ugly gaps either.
Since it's been a while someone posted in this thread has anyone come up with new creative ways around this delimma?
I've got a few of the 83-92 sill plates in my stash, I may try to cut one up and use that piece to either make a "cover" over that gap or glue a piece in there all together and try to blend it.
i'd just suggest hunting and searching the classifieds for anyone parting out an 82 that probably won't realize the sill plates are anything special. You could also handle the sill plate the way ssean92 did in the picture above, only I would remove the hard plastic cover on the bottom of the seatbelt because it serves no purpose and only restricts the motion of the belt. Your seatbelt would come out of the cover just like it did with a retractor inside... only there is a solid mount underneath instead of the retractor.
I never ended up replying to ssean92 back in 2007, so I'll do it now... the 90 degree mounting bracket is held to the body with the same type of bolt that holds the seatbelt in (plus one additional smaller bolt to prevent it from spinning), so the metal tab on the seatbelt can be bolted where there 90 degree bracket currently bolts into the body.
__________________ Bright Platinum Metallic with painted hoodbird, 17x9 Year One Snowflake Wheels, smoothed inner fenders, shaved door locks and antenna. Black leather interior.
Current Drivetrain: LT1 and T56 with SLP 1 3/4" primary headers and catback, Borg Warner 9-bolt.
I took a old sill plate and cut out two pieces to make a "cover" to cover up the hole.
I had to knock the nibs off the sill plate so the plate will sit flush, I still need to take a dremel to the back side of the plate so it will sit on the sill plate a little tighter and not have a hard edge.
Then I'm going to take a few screws and countersink them on each end to secure it. When I'm done it'll look like a factory piece and you won't even notice it.
I was going to just use the retractor cover, but I like this a lot better
Are you going to cut a slot or hole for the belt to stick up through? Or just run the lower part of the belt on the outside of the sill plate?
If you arent going to pass the belt through, I wouldnt use screws. Get yourself some good glue. Gorilla Glue works wonders...it wont fall off thats for sure. Then you wont have screws to look at, and it'll look even more factory.
lol Thanks, I don't know if I want to get in the business selling covers. But it really isn't hard to do, I used a cut-off wheel and the plastic sands really easy.
I'm going to dye the part tomorrow, I'll post pictures of how it came out
Def post some pictures after you get them installed.
What did you use to make the nice rounded ends of the slot? Did you just cut a rectangle, then finish it off with a small drum sander on a dremel or something?
Im gonna start looking for a set of sill covers now... I was going to use my old lower retractor covers to cover the opening, but this is much simpler and cleaner I think.
Thanks again for the idea!
J.
__________________
ARE shortblock, Ross custom boost pistons, arp rod bolts, ARE ported oil pump,
MTI 2e 5.3L ported heads milled .030 with double springs,
228/224 113+1 Comp XE-R, Cloyes adjustable timing chain, LS6 valley cover,
fast 90mm intake, NW 90mm throttle body, SVO 30lb injectors, 85mm MAF,
ASP underdrive pulley, 160* t-stat, stainless LT headers 1.75" primaries
88transamfreak..... that is a badass mod!
very nice.
__________________ 1988 IROC-z/28. 4th gen interior. 408 LSx
sporting the stock fuse box and taillights.
too many mods to type.
6.23@109.71 pump gas. all motor.
What did you use to make the nice rounded ends of the slot? Did you just cut a rectangle, then finish it off with a small drum sander on a dremel or something?
I used a 3/4" wood spade bit to kit the holes on each and then used my cut-off wheel to "join" the two holes.
I've got a 2" disc air sander to smooth the straight lines in the opening and used a piece of 80 grit to smooth the rounded part by hand.
WOW! Those came out great! They really look just like my 82 sills aside from the overlap. You matched the design perfectly
__________________ Bright Platinum Metallic with painted hoodbird, 17x9 Year One Snowflake Wheels, smoothed inner fenders, shaved door locks and antenna. Black leather interior.
Current Drivetrain: LT1 and T56 with SLP 1 3/4" primary headers and catback, Borg Warner 9-bolt.
Thanks! I thought about making bevel for both pieces to lock together and not have a lip, but that would have took some precise work with a dremel to make it look right. But in the end I just decided to sand the edge down a bit.
Sure you could have spent a ton of time making the piece seamless, and blending it in. But the beauty of your idea is its SIMPLE!!! And QUICK!!!
Major kudos to you again man... Ive had 4th gen belts for quite a few years now...and stewed over how to make the covers work ever since. And kept keeping my eyes peeled for 82 plates. This idea never crossed my mind.
I can not wait to do this!!! What glue did you end up using?
J.
__________________
ARE shortblock, Ross custom boost pistons, arp rod bolts, ARE ported oil pump,
MTI 2e 5.3L ported heads milled .030 with double springs,
228/224 113+1 Comp XE-R, Cloyes adjustable timing chain, LS6 valley cover,
fast 90mm intake, NW 90mm throttle body, SVO 30lb injectors, 85mm MAF,
ASP underdrive pulley, 160* t-stat, stainless LT headers 1.75" primaries
I used some two-part epoxy I bought from Wally World, it was the version that has the 60 second set time.
I spent 10 minutes staring at that epoxy and a jar of gorilla glue....the epoxy won.
It looks to be a strong enough bond. But I may put some rivits in the lower sides where you wouldn't see them, then dye over them. I'm paranoid like that.
I'm not trying to start a business, I really don't have time. I'll cut you a set of cover plates like the ones in my picture for $25 shipped usps / pair if you don't have the means to make them.
Here's a quick picture of what they look like with the seatbelts going through them. I'll need to play with the angle of the belt a bit...but it doesn't look too bad.
Nice! They look awesome just as I thought they would! Good stuff! I cant wait to put mine on now. haha. Almost as excited about that as I am about my Tick master cylinder. haha.
I HIGHLY recommend removing the hard plastic cover from the bottom of the 4th gen seatbelt with that sill plate. I did the same exact thing with mine and it ended up breaking off the bottom part of the sill plate where it is slit. The plastic isn't strong enough to resist the forces that the plastic sleeve exert on it during normal use... that design was meant to just have the fabric belt pass through it. You can cut the couple of stitches through the plastic sleeve and it slides right off.
__________________ Bright Platinum Metallic with painted hoodbird, 17x9 Year One Snowflake Wheels, smoothed inner fenders, shaved door locks and antenna. Black leather interior.
Current Drivetrain: LT1 and T56 with SLP 1 3/4" primary headers and catback, Borg Warner 9-bolt.
I'd like to thank JeremyNYR and Mongoose for pointing out that that bracket is removeable. I was in the middle of installing 4th gen seat belts in my 91 and when I saw that bracket under the retractor I was at a loss for how to deal with it. Gonna try to finish the job with some 4th gen sill plates. Actually all the information in this tread was really, really helpful, thanks everybody, long live TGO!!!
__________________ My rides: 1974 Bricklin, 1991 KITT Replica
glad i could help :-) this is a really great mod if you can finish it off properly. The 4th gen belts look great and will be safer than using older more worn belts.
__________________ Bright Platinum Metallic with painted hoodbird, 17x9 Year One Snowflake Wheels, smoothed inner fenders, shaved door locks and antenna. Black leather interior.
Current Drivetrain: LT1 and T56 with SLP 1 3/4" primary headers and catback, Borg Warner 9-bolt.
I had 4thgen belts when I had 4thgen door panels. They look like complete crap and are not even worth it unless your going to do those custom door sills like posted above (nice work btw)