my rear hatch wont close. does someone have a wiring diagram so i can fix it. also has someone converted this to old school mechanical lock . what parts do i need for that swap.

Is it dead or did you open the trunk when the battery wasn't connected? If you open the trunk with the battery disconnected you just have to trip the latch and the unit should come up and start working again.

I had in the part converted mine to manual due to a variety of issues. Drilled a couple holes in the sliding plates while I had someone outside the vehicle make sure the lid was flat and level and put in some bolts to hold everything in place. From there, I just removed the lower motor section (what was left of it at least; everything was destroyed by the previous owner).

First things first, Darrell brought up a good point about tripping the switch if the battery was disconnected. I had the same issue when I hooked a battery up recently to my car after it sat for 5+ years.

I like the pull down. THere is a reversal switch and a switch at the latch. The way it works is:
The hatch switch is closed.
The thing moves until it hits the reversal switch, then it stops.

There is a inline fuse under the ds dash close to the fuse box.
There is a relay in the rear
The motor and gear housing are vunerable to breaking.

Check to make sure the housing isn't broke.
check the fuse
check the latch switch,
check the relay
check the reversal switch

I'm really angry with how poorly GM constructed those things. Needless to say, I've been having trouble with mine.

I've got it locked in place right now by removing the motor and fitting a piece of steel between the slide assembly and the bottom main bolt. I would advise against drilling through the sliders! That's what the previous owner did to mine and I wanted to egg his house. Though he proceeded to torque off the heads of the screws he used.

I actually just wired mine up manually, which was not that difficult, and set some switches on the empty panel under the running lights / brights knob.

It worked for about a day before the CHEAP PLASTIC MOTOR MOUNT decentigrated into like a thousand pieces.

If you're going to just rig yours up that way, I'll send you my "custom" fitted steel shunt, and you can send me your motor mount.

I can get pics, if you want to do it yourself. It isnt hard.

Wait a sec, can someone explain the "tripping the latch" part? About four months ago I had to stop driving my car because I had to reregister it and I had to scrounge up the money to get it, it took me two months, and as a result the battery was dead, I opened the hatch a few times while the battery was dead to retrieve things and now the hatch doesn't pull all the way closed. It just sits about an inch above the rest of the body, can I "Trip" a latch like you guys are saying? Or is there a problem with it that needs to be replaced?

the car sat for years before i got it. the pull motor is in bad shape, so is the wiring. a schematic would help so i can troubleshoot the connections.

The latch has two electrical switch components in it. The first is a button right on top that is depressed when the hatch connector contacts the acceptor. The second is a reversing switch, which is much more difficult to find. It's right on top the motor, on the inside, just above the gear housing.

Tripping it would be if the catch, the acceptor, is all the way down, then the battery is disconnected, then the hatch is opened. When the hatch opens, the motor should send the catch up.

For you, it sounds like another problem, but it could be an easy fix if your motor still operates and triggers when the hatch is opened or closed. Something simple like a piece of debris is the slider. All you have to do is remove that back plastic and have a look.

If you're still stumped, take off the plastic and snap a pic. Either me or someone else on these boards can give you the info you need.

I guess Autozone used to have wiring diagrams on their websites, but they arent there anymore. I looked everywhere for one, to no avail. Haines manual doesnt have one either.

This is what led me to wire it up manually, as noted above. But if all your motor components and things are structurally sound, It's worth it to fix the electrical components.

hope this helps. the pages cover opening and closing.

thanks for the wiring diagram. i connected the wires by color and now the motor runs. i need to order new plastic slides for the motor tracks.

Thanks for the tip guys, I messed with the little latch on the car and while I was driving home today it kicked in!

It works again! thanks alot.

kkingsrulee: Happy to hear you got your hatch working

WISH I COULD SAY THE SAME FOR MINE!

to anyone out there: I replaced my rear hatch assembly and motor, wired it all up correctly only to discover that my switch in the console isn't connected to anything. The ONLY loose plug i could find under there is a three wire plug (black, green with white stripe and an orange). But this does NOT mate with the switch which has just two L-Shaped brass prong contacts.

here is what i need to know... does that loose three wire plug even go to the rear hatch? IF so, is there meant to be some sort of additional adapter plug to make it love the switch in the console??? Otherwise- what am I should I be looking for??

Any help would be appreciated! thanks

Hey, if you had a little more information that would help us help you. Does it do anything? Does the motor run but not move? You say someone converted it, does that mean the motor isn't even there? If it IS there, check to see if you have power to the motor. And start attempting to diagnose what is wrong exactly. Top Down Solutions, a TGO member, has all kinds of repair parts for the hatch motors and the prices are more than reasonable and the customer service is top notch. They also sell complete rebuilt pulldown motors if you want to go that route! Hope this helps!

Sorry for my post, it wasn't showing there were any responses to your topic. Now I see there are.

Thanks for the diagram.

Bumping an old thread looking for some help from those who seem to be able to.

When I hook the red-white together and ground the black wires from the hatch motor harness, the motor goes all the way down. If I shut the hatch and then open it with the key, it just pops open, no lift up. The only way I can get the hatch motor to go up is the remove the relay attached to the unit and wire the motor directly.

I do not have the compartment light for the black-orange wire to connect to but this shouldn't stop the motor from going up, right?

That would be one of the switches or the relay. The light shouldn't matter. When the unit cranks down it toggles a switch to reverse the direction. If this switch isn't working it will go to one end and then stop. The other item is the latch switch that "senses" when the latch is closed to engage the motor.

Use the diagram above to trace the wiring and test the switches.

which fuse is this? I can't find it and I am sure mine tripped a fuse

The fuse isn't in the fuse box, there should be an inline fuse near the fuse box that should be it.

is it a normal fuse? the only normal fuses i see outside the fuse box are for the viper alarm system

yes its just a spade fuse not a buss. This is true on some but not all the models what type of car do you have? I believe the holder is black.

I have a 1990 IROC hardtop. 5.7 auto. I would appreciate if someone could post a picture? All I can find is the fuses for the alarm and the fuse box. does the fuse control anything else? so I can see if it is the fuse or a different problem. thanks!

Correct only for Firebird. Incorrect info for Camaro.

On a Firebird the hatch fuse is 15 amps and is in a single fuse holder that is attached to the outside of the fuse block. It can be removed from the fuse block, since the fuse holder has a channel that slips onto a dovetal molded into the outside of th fuse block, so if you can't find it attached look for it near the fuse block.

On a Camaro the hatch fuse is called the LID fuse in the fuse block. It again is a 15 amp.

Before you go looking for a blown fuse, remove the hatch surround trim panel and test that you have power at the red/white stripe wire that plugs into the blue wire.

Lon

ok thanks, the fuse is not blown.... so I guess I can check and see if I am getting any power? the light in the back does not seem to work anymore either

may have the same issue with my latch motor...still checking this out

on mine the plastic gears are stripped is there anywhere that i can get a new gear. chevy says they are discontinued

Its is this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380388487197...84.m1423.l2649

thanks i just ordered it

hey, I was looking at the circuit layout file and I was wondering, if my light is broken, will my hatch not work? it seems to have power go to the light then from there to the hatch motor assembly. if the light does not work, will I not get power?

The hatch light is powerd on a different circuit than the hatch pull-down unit.

FYI, the gear nut, along with every other item to repair these hatch pull-down units is available from my web site, and for a bit less than that eBay ad.

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/gea...nits-p-46.html

hey thanks lon you're the man!