85f-bird

Hey all,

I recently got back to working on my project car that's been in the garage for some years now, well...ages ago in College I had purchased a grant steering wheel with intentions of installing it. I rented the puller from Autozone, and went to the dorm parking lot, removed the nut, and installed the puller....I tightened up the center bolt on the puller, but the wheel never budged. Thinking I just needed to twist a little more, I did so, and one of the bolts securing the wheel simply snapped off (uh oh). Well, end result was me returning the Grant GT wheel to autozone, and trying to explain the broken puller...

Forward a couple years, and I had a used firebird wheel i wanted to install, but still, couldn't get the old wheel out. BFH (Big F'n Hammer) doesn't seem to loosen it, nothing does...is there something I'm missing?

I know my father had a metal collar installed on the steering column during the mid 80's to prevent vehicle theft, but I highly doubt there's some clip hidden behind the steering column holding this wheel on. I don't notice any corrosion in the wheel, and I haven't seen any welds on the steering shaft either...has anyone else encountered a problem like this?

David Wade

Did you remove the lock ring for the steering wheel? I think you have to press the lock plate down and remove the lock ring to release the plate, then you can use the puller to yank the wheel off the splined column.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

The lock ring is under the steering wheel.

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Yes, you need to get the wheel off before you get to the point of removing the lock plate...which you don't need to remove at all for just a wheel change.

The wheel is splined onto the steering shaft. Try getting a puller back on it, put it under tension - make sure you're pulling it straight..not crooked and enough tension .... not enough to break the bolts...spray a little penetrant on the splined portion and tap the end of the puller with a hammer a little...then MAYBE a 1/4 turn more tension...you get the idea...it should come off.

Renegade-Z28

Agreed. Easy job. You will be surprised how easily it will come off when you figure it out.

85f-bird

Thought I'd resurrect my old thread, since I still can't get the dang steering wheel off. This time, I put up some pictures.

So, I made a couple attempts to remove the broken bolt from the steering wheel puller. I tried vice grips (no luck), attempted to weld up a nut (no luck) I may try another nut in the future, but we'll see. I looked at the new wheel, and looked at the old one, and don't see anything that looks out of place, but thought I'd post the pictures of the old wheel so you could see what type of conundrum I'm in.

I need to get the old steering wheel off so I can fix the steering column tilt mechanism, and then I want to get the old leather wheel recovered while using the "base wheel" as a temp.

Let me know if you guys see anything suspicious in the photo...thanks.

Eric-86sc

iTrader: (18)

It should come right off. Another technique to try that I use all the time is put a hammer on the column and with a helper, have them hit your hammer with another while you pull on the wheel.

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Maybe just the lighting but it seems to me that the steering wheel is off canter. Looks like it's trying to come off at an angle.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

That broken bolt shouldn't be too hard to pull out.
I don't seat the two bolts down all the way. I adjust the pair to center the assembly so the main driver bolt is in-line with the steering column shaft. Then I make sure everything stays in alignment as I tighten the main bolt. IMO, it's more of a finesse kind of thing than brute force. Otherwise if it gets ****-eyed it can either bend the bolts or make it really hard to remove. I sometimes reset everything if it doesn't look right as I've bent a couple of sets of bolts in the past.

Yeah, if the steering wheel is off canter then it won't align either.

Could maybe try some penetrating oil, and then set the puller up with some pressure, and then work the wheel around? I've pulled some wheels off without a puller, so the force required isn't always a whole lot. If the wheel is crooked you could try adding some pressure with the puller and then move it in the direction of straightening it and than see if it moves.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

First thing I noticed. It looks like it's been pulled off sideways, so it probably needs to be pushed back on and try again.

85f-bird

sprayed it down with some lubricant two days ago - As soon as I get some freetime I'll try to push it back on. If it is crooked (as you guys have said) then it's been like that for about 8 years...hopefully it won't be too "STUCK" in it's location to be pushed back the other way.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

At last resort, you can drill out the rivets and use a 3 jaw puller on the metal frame. You risk destroying the wheel, but it'll be off

85f-bird

I had that thought a long time ago too, but am going to skip it for the time being. I attempted to get the wheel to seat back on the splines, with no luck...i don't know if it jumped a tooth or not. Might remove the column for a replacement unit, especially if the metal frame is going to be as hard to remove as everything else (which I think it is).

Swapping columns will only result in a change in key from all I can think...Then I'll search the web for a new formula wheel to have recovered...hopefully if i find a new column, I'll luck out and find one that doesn't have play in the tilt mechanism...but i kinda doubt it.

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

Put the nut 1/2 way back on and WACK IT with a hammer,that will work.

paulo57509

I don't think you'd want to do this to an impact absorbing steering column.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I was going to mention a different column. With the tilt being loose it would be a lot less work, just make sure you get the right range in years for the electrical hookups. Local Upulls or CL part outs are your best bet for something reasonable. You should be able to get the keys with a Craigslist part out though.

If you want to get that wheel off I would still do it now while the column is mounted in the car. You may want to grab the lock cylinder later on and it'll be a lot more work fighting with it in a vice or whatnot.

85f-bird

The car is a 1985, does anyone know what years will be compatible? I'd imagine I'll have to avoid models with VATS, and off the top of my head I can't remember when that started...1989?

mantaguy

iTrader: (5)

I would stay in the 82-87 range.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

I wish I knew the differences for sure but I read recently that the wiper wiring is different in 82-83/4.

kthxbai

iTrader: (5)

If you can cut/drill out that broken bolt and get a puller back on try using an impact driver. I just recently spent an hour monkeying with my puller and bent the bolts to hell- then put a cordless dewalt impact driver on it and it popped off straight away.