I'll post some photos from under the car and engine bay soon, i used the stock line and filter assembly, other photos will make more sense. Once i figure out how to change the signal from the ls1 fuel level sender to the factory range i'll post it up as well. If anyone has some comments or things for me to add let me know. This forum has been very helpful to me, and i want to put info out there to contribute as well. Thanks, James

very nicely done! one quesiton though, you said it needed custom lines made, is that needed because its hard to splice metal lines together or our stock lines not work period?

The LS1 tanks come with plastic lines, which i don't believe you can splice with metal. You may be able to use the plastic lines and the ls1 fuel filter etc - but i did not have these (they were cut when i bought it).

wow wasnt aware of the plastic lines. also what is the weight difference between the two? and if you have the tank installed in the car, does it look factory? someone mentioned that it doesnt fit right and i was curious as to what fit differently.

Good info. I'm currently in the middle of getting my plastic tank ready to go in, and this info will make it a little easier. With my tank they cut all 3 plastic lines that connect to the sending unit, so i think i'll have to see if gm will sell just the vent line.

I'm not sure if the wieght is much different, maybe a little lighter. It fit great, used the factory hangers on the 3rd gen, heat shield went in around it fine. I had to get some fuel hose to make a filler neck. The fuel inlet is metal and you can drill a hole in the wheel well to hold it in place with a bolt - very sturdy, looks factory.

I did a lot of searches, and there is some good info out there - just thought that i would add some.

Hope this helps.

James

Are all the ls1 tanks the same?I can get an 00 tank with the lines.Should I get the plastic lines and use them or use the stock 3G lines attached to the lines from the ls1 tank?

98 had metal, maybe 99 too. 00-02 definitely had plastic. Get the plastic lines and the metal fuel T and fuel filter. These will swap right in and your stock metal line will thread right in. Then all you need is some hose and clamps for EVAP.

Kevin D.

I didnt get my fuel T with the tank Could i just go to the dealer and get one along with the plastic fuel lines?

I just went to gm a few days ago and ordered the small vent line that comes out of the sending unit, and that little plastic hose cost $26. I'm sure the other plastic lines will be even more.

dang! Thats a little hose too. I wonder if Hawks could get me those lines from there donors cars?

Z28evans where did you get your t-block from. I tried pricing one out at gm and to get one they said its one of a set of like 15 parts that you need to buy. I think it comes with the metal lines, but not sure.

Cut the original line above the frame and attached the braided line there ( the extra fittings at the bottom are for the sender for an electric fuel pressure gauge). I like this settup better than coming out front like the factory tpi did and running the new braided line back to the ls1. Also there is no fuel pressure regulator also making it cleaner looking in my opinion.



parts you can get at any local autoparts place for cheap:

Used stock line and 89 camaro filter and bracket. Cut and added a T after the filter on the stock line. Ran a new 3/8 fuel line to the tank for the return.



joining lines from the tank to the fuel filter (used the stock fuel feed line to the filter, and made a 3/8 line to go to the T after the filter.


james

Looking good james....Looks like its going to work. I wasnt to sure of how you were going to do it but now it makes more sense this way. Do you have any more pics?

More pics of what
That pretty much sums up the fuel system for me. I removed the unused (in my case) evap and return lines, the other line going to the front is the brake line.

***Beautiful day, 69F, really want to be working on it right now but i'm stuck at work

James

Nice pictures!

Everything looks clean, good job. That braided line would look real nice coming out of some fuel rail covers.

Hey James quick question, what did you use to connect your steel fuel line to the plastic lines on the pump, looks like a very clean connection there.

MJ

does anyone know if the LS1 tank and fuel pump will work for a '93 LT1? my buddy totaled his last night...so, fortunately and unfortunately, i can get one for cheap.

I used some of the push on connectors that most autoparts places carry (often in the 'help' isle). They come with barbed ends, i cut the barb off and used a compression union to attach the push connector to the 3/8 tube. There are some places that sell push connectors that have AN threads so you can use some russell or other companies braided lines. That would be the preferred way, but they were on backorder when i needed them.


They have the same physical size i think, but i'm not sure about the fuel pressures or fuel level senders.

James

Very nice work we have 'help' products at my work just dont stock any of those, tomorrow i'll look it up and get them on order, thanks for the help no pun intended

MJ

when i said that my buddy totaled his...i really ment it. check this out.
SARacing.net :: View topic - R.I.P to the DIRTY BIRD

Will the TPI fuel pump pickup assembly and lines work with that tank?

Also, could I still use my orginal purge canister in engine bay? In other words, just use the plastic tank shell and re-use all my stock TPI stuff...

Please let me know!

Can you snap a picture of that junction of the plastic/metal lines when you're under the car next?

Braided lines all the way to the front of the car? That doesn't sound too safe to me.

The TPI stuff will not work with the plastic style tanks (my understanding, could be wrong). I think that that they attach differently.

I'm pretty sure that you could use your factory canister, but that would involve stuff that i didn't do, so i'm not sure.

They are on top of the gas tank, hopefully to never see the light of day again (or until i need to upgrade for more power).



I used the factory lines (up into the engine bay), and used a compression fitting to attach the braided line that goes to the engine.

I'm curious about the fuel gauge... Any luck getting it to work?

I'm curious too... any updates?

I too am curious about the fuel gauge.

I've wired it up on my '84 T/A but have not completed the wiring so I do not yet know if it works or not.

BTW- for an earlier post- the 4th gen fuel lines are a combination of plastic and metal. They're only plastic on the last foot or so at the back of the car by the tank. I grabbed the fuel lines from the 4th gen donor car and installed them onto my '84 T/A. I had to shorten them up near the front and bend them to work, but the underside/ rear of the car worked perfectly.

I used those compression fittings from Pep Boys to seal the lines back together.

I haven't messed with mine, i know where empty is (half tank on gauge) and fill when i need to. Some day if i get bored i'll tackle the gauge issue. Having too much fun driving it

Has anyone been able drop in an LS1 tank and adapt it so the the fuel gauge reads correct on a 3rd gen?

I'm in the process of dropping my tank and if the stock gauges can be made to work I'd like to go with the LS1 tank option.

Here: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use

Two months since the last post... but, I'm curious:

I see that there you have no plug or wires on the charcoal canister box deal to the lower right side on the new plastic ls1 tank. Did you plug this black piece in? Has anyone hooked this up?

I didnt even realize it was there until today when I looked closer at it.
Is this a necissary thing to wire up?


-Bud

The EVAP box helps remove fuel vapor. You don't have to hook it up... it depends on if you want to be smog legal or not, or if you don't want to directly vent to atmo. If you want to wire it up, here are the wires from the fuel tank to a 2002 PCM:

EVAP Solenoid:
0.5 Pink (20 awg) - Connect to Eng Ctrl Fuse (15A)
0.35 White (22 awg) - Connect to PCM C2 pin 45 (EVAP Canister Vent Solenoid Control)

Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor:
0.5 Orange/Black - Connect to PCM C1 pin 23 (Low Reference)
0.5 Gray/Black - Connect to PCM C1 pin 46 (5V Reference)
0.5 Dark Green - Connect to PCM C2 pin 64 (Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Signal)

I bought this tank too and have done the 0-90 ohm modification. I have yet to put it in the car but I thought I would add the way I am plumbing the tank into the car. I found this at Summit so you can use a 6 AN line directly from the tank. So if you didnt get or dont want to use the factory stuff you dont have to. I have to order a few more fittings to get everything the way I want it but once I get it all I will post up some pictures. Despite what the description says on the Summit site the adapters are 6AN, I called Edelbrock to verify this and have them in hand now so I know a 6 will fit.

Awesome. Got mine done, bar evap, thanks to those fittings you suggested .

How does the in tank regulator work? Wiring schematic? Pin outs? totally lost here

there are a few other threads that discuss those points do a search for my name, I am in most of them

What are you referring to here? The pump? The regulator doesnt have wires on it. it looks like a miniture version of an LT1 regulator but it is in the pump can.
Like I said look through posts with my name and do some reading click here (How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use). There were a few other places where the wiring was posted.
Going to the fuel pump plumbing, if you have the tank out or can see the top if the filler neck is on your right hand side then the hose on the right out of the tank is the feed and the one on the left is the return. I think the one in the middle is the vapor line
I guess the link button doesnt work properly in IE7, looks liek IE7 and vista sucks, stupid computers

There is a return line here, but what about the LS1 cars that do NOT have a return line? Im looking to get a tank from a 00-02, and I dont think they have a return line.
If thats the case, then all I would need to do is run one line to the fuel rails?

Al, they all have return lines. The LS cars just have the return line short, about a foot long. It comes off the tank with plastic lines and then it goes to a hard metal tube, then gotes to a "T" block where it then returns to the tank and goes to the fuel rails at the front of the car.
Depending on what kind of injection you plan on running you may or may not need the retun all the way from the front of the car.
I have another tank you can look at if you want when you come trade me for the wheels off the 73

Ahahaha, alright then! Yeah...I gotta get working on it eventually. 72 has to go up for sale very soon.
I was gunna do this along with swapping in an LS1.

i am getting a plastic tank ready for my lt1 swap car, and i was wondering how some of you vented the evap straight to the atmosphere- i have deleted the purge solenoid and tuned it out of my pcm. what is the best way to deal with the vent line and charcoal canister to get the least gas smell around the car?

thanks,
Steven

Im not sure of the ideal way... but the second swap I did, I left the EVAP line unhooked, and just zip tied it along side the other fuel lines. I dont ever smell raw fuel around my car...and I never have hissing from my gas cap so I imagine its venting to some degree. I didnt bother with a filter or anything...I might toss one on eventually just for the heck of it.

J.

I'm trying to remember what I did when I put in the LS1 tank on the LT1-swapped thirdgen car. I removed the regulator inside of the LS1 sending unit. The LT1 evap has a hose connected to the LT1 throttle body. I ran another hose from the LT1 evap solenoid(CCP solenoid) to the hardline that runs along with the fuel lines. The hardline goes all the way back toward the tank. I think I ran a hose from the hardline to the small inlet on the LS1 Charcoal Canister.
So, LT1 evap>>>Hardline>>>LS1 Charcoal Canister

Then I believe I the line that goes from the small white thing on the tank, that just vents(or sucks in) to(or from) the atmosphere, I think its a valve that only lets air into the tank but not sure. I may have that little white valve thing that is on the thirdgen tanks connected to it, the thing that rests by the rear brakeline bracket but not for sure either.

If I don't have that LS1 Charcoal Canister installed and let all the lines on the tank vent to the atmosphere, I smelled a lot of gas, I had it out the first time I put the tank in, but had to re-install it. I got a sore throat from breathing in all the fumes from cruising one night.

If I plugged all the lines with the canister removed, I had too much pressure build up, couldn't get gas to go into the tank, and would have eventually burned up the fuel pump because the pump had to work a lot harder.

I have a carbed car and am getting ready to swap a plastic tank in... what is the white thing one the left of the tank with a line coming out of it? and the black one where the line that is labeled vent is going to? I am not sure which are vents and which are for emisssions. I plan on running a vented cap, but I know I need more than that. Just curious if anyone could help?

(1)Fuel Sender Assembly
(2) Hose (EVAP Canister to Vent Solenoid)
(3) EVAP Vent Valve
(4) Fuel Tank Harness
(5) EVAP Canister
(6) Fuel Tank
(7) Overpressure Relief Valve
(8) Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor



just found this and i think it will be helpful to anyone trying to think through their plastic tank evap setup

Thanks, I learned what #7 is, I am still trying to figure out what the thing to the right of it is... looks to me like a vent but im really not sure.

Correct, that's the vent to the charcoal canister.

here is the sending unit when you pull it out.



here are the guts of the regulator



and finally here it is no regulator. I am ready to shove this sucker in.

i know this is an old thread but where did u get the quick disconnect adapter fittings to hook up steel feed and return lines to the plastic fourth gen sender assembly? Im looking for them for my tank swap. help would be great. i found these in summit but it looks like they hook up to -6an and -8an lines instead of factory line fittings ....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-15118/ and
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-15117/

I used Russell fittings that have a male fitting (easy to flare the tubing and use a nut/sleeve to attach to the fitting).

I used to have them on my Summit order records, but it's been deleted due to age. I can't find them on the site at the moment.

I also found them locally, though, just asked the speed shop counter guy for GM fuel quick disconnect to AN adapter.