LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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... what else has that type of plastic unit? I would think it's a recent GM design... maybe 'vette as well, but I thought they had a different pump/bowl setup than the f-bodies.
EVERYTHING uses the plastic resistor assembly for sending units any more. Vans, full- and mid-size trucks, wrong-wheel-drive passenger cars, and probably even the bastard-child Saturns. I've had several apart for repair, since they have a relatively high failure rate.
The bifurcated contacts on the upper and lower wipers lose tension easily, and the pivot point wears quickly. Usually, they can be removed, shimmed at the pivot, and have tension added to the leaf contacts.
I have to wonder it it wouldn't just be easier to change the fuel pump onto the old ThirdGen pedestal.
there is a direct replacement 0-90ohm fuel sender the part number is located in another thread titled something like....the correct way to modify your fuel sender i started the thread hope it helps.
so, to be absolutely sure- this prt # above is a 0-90 ohm resistor fuel sender that will work in the LS1 tank??
I just want to be absolutely sure before I go and order one and take the time to rip my car apart. I rely on it as a daily driver. (and yes, it sucks making frequently unnecessary trips to the gas station to top it off just to be sure I have enough gas in it without a gas gauge)
Hey guys this isn't so hard.
Go into your local GM dealer and buy a fuel level sending unit for a 96-98 C/K pick-up truck. The parts guy will give you a box. Inside that box you will find 2 level senders. A 0-90 and a 0-260. All the GM level sender are pretty much the same and I know these ones are from my own swap.
GM gives you both because the truck could have used either one. You had to test the resistance on your old one, then select the one you needed and discard the other.
Hey guys this isn't so hard.
Go into your local GM dealer and buy a fuel level sending unit for a 96-98 C/K pick-up truck. The parts guy will give you a box. Inside that box you will find 2 level senders. A 0-90 and a 0-260. All the GM level sender are pretty much the same and I know these ones are from my own swap.
GM gives you both because the truck could have used either one. You had to test the resistance on your old one, then select the one you needed and discard the other.
Fastcars
Good info, thanks, any idea on the price difference between the c/k truck sender and the Grand Prix sender?
Good info, thanks, any idea on the price difference between the c/k truck sender and the Grand Prix sender?
I can look into it. $200 Canadian rings a bell but not sure anymore. I'm a technician at the local GM dealer here and I personnally have replaced hundreds of those things and thrown dozens of brand new ones out. Look at the picture of the sender, you'll see little fingers that move along the resistor board. Some additives in our gasoline will eat those fingers away to nothing and the sensor will no longer function. Here in Canada, Shell gasoline was the worst. Chrysler actually sued Shell over this a few years back.
Anyhow I can say that almost every GM vehicle from 96 up uses the same fuel level sending unit. They were either 0-90 or 0-260. Find the one you need and your good to go!
Here's the pinout I have for 2000 Camaro 5.7 liter.
All GM cars used the same wiring colors and the connectors on the later plastic sending units are similar. Fuel Level Sensor/Fuel Pump
Connector Part Information
1216-0482
4 Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series Seald (BLK)
Pin
Wire Color
Function
A
PPL
Fuel Level Input
B
GRY
Fuel Pump Control
C
BLK
Fuel Pump Ground
D
BLK/WHT
Fuel Level Sensor Ground
You guys are making this way too complicated and expensive. Just grab an Autometer or VDO universal sender and bolt it in place of the stock one, it takes very little modifying (If I remember right drilling 2 holes and splicing 2 wires), costs $30-40 and is more reliable then the stock senders you guys are talking about using out of the full size trucks (I’ve replaced 2 of those that failed with universals in the last 2 years)
Re: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastcars
Hey guys this isn't so hard.
Go into your local GM dealer and buy a fuel level sending unit for a 96-98 C/K pick-up truck. The parts guy will give you a box. Inside that box you will find 2 level senders. A 0-90 and a 0-260. All the GM level sender are pretty much the same and I know these ones are from my own swap.
GM gives you both because the truck could have used either one. You had to test the resistance on your old one, then select the one you needed and discard the other.
Fastcars
I asked the local parts counter for just this and they came up with two part numbers: 19121306 and 25314215. Both in stock! With my trust multimeter that I had brought along with me I was able to verify that BOTH of these numbers are the 40-240 range senders. Neither of the part numbers were a box containing two senders. With this information I have narrowed my shopping list to the the Grand Prix 25319676 part.
I can verify this part number being correct, I ordered it, tested and installed already
Yep! That's the one I have on order. That thread says that It has to be modified to fit the LS1 bucket or the resistor board has to be swapped. Got any details on what I will need to do? Pics by any chance?
Re: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use
No pictures but it was pretty straight forward, I think there was a clip you have to remove then the board slides out, carefully, then you put the new one in. Be very careful not to bend the little wipers though
Re: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use
Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter
No pictures but it was pretty straight forward, I think there was a clip you have to remove then the board slides out, carefully, then you put the new one in. Be very careful not to bend the little wipers though
Last Saturday I received the 25319676 that I ordered and after opening the box I found two(2) Senders. They both appear identical except for the Fuel Pump plug on the little attched harness. One has the Camaro style and the other has a plug with smaller contacts. When I check them with my meter they are both 0-90 ohm. I was quite pleased with what the 25319676 p/n provided me but I did not have time to mess with the conversion.
Last night I gave myself some time and It was easier than you had mentioned. I guess I did my conversion a little different. I used the sender/harness that had the Camaro style plug. I pressed the pin out of the wiper arm / sender assembly and that allowed the board to come out freely after removing the retaining clip. I did the same with the LS1 sender and then reassembled the LS1 sender body with the new board and new wiper arm from the 25319676 sender and pressed the pin back in to have a fully functioning 0-90 ohm LS1 Fuel Level Sender. No drama at all.
The second sender that was in the box is also usable. Because the fuel pump plug is its own little two wire harness It can simply be removed from the big four contact plug and the Camaro style plug used instead.
Re: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwfrels
I pressed the pin out of the wiper arm / sender assembly and that allowed the board to come out freely after removing the retaining clip.
I didnt want to mess with the wiper assembly and risk breaking it. I just removed the clip and slid the board out carefully, then put the new one in the opposite of removal.
Glad to hear it was just as easy to remove the pin though. If I ever do another one I will try that.
I am currently working on the plumbing of -6 AN lines front to rear. Also making it easy to remove if necessary later. I am taking puctures as I go, I should have some up this weekend.
Re: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use
Quote:
Originally Posted by scooter
I didnt want to mess with the wiper assembly and risk breaking it. I just removed the clip and slid the board out carefully, then put the new one in the opposite of removal.
Glad to hear it was just as easy to remove the pin though. If I ever do another one I will try that.
I am currently working on the plumbing of -6 AN lines front to rear. Also making it easy to remove if necessary later. I am taking puctures as I go, I should have some up this weekend.
I did it that way because I wanted to also use the brand new contacts on the new wiper arm. That way I would in essence have a brand new sender.
I am interested in your -6AN plumbing. The next planned step in my fuel system upgrade was to install stainless steel lines from Classic Tube to replace the lines that run from tank to engine bay. At ~$130/each thought they are quite pricey. A more cost effective solution I will pay some attention to. Where will you be posting the pics?
Re: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use
I wil post the pictures here I guess, it will just be a link to my web site. I wouldnt call what I am doing a very cost effective solution though. I have probably $300 all in all, but I went with more expensive fittings and lines and I am putting in more fittings to make it easier to remove later if necessary. Originally I was going to go with the stainless replacement lines too, but then I got this tank. I am not finished with the lines yet. It keeps raining and I have to work outside on the ground. I should finish this weekend, weather permitting.
Thats cool that you also got new wiper arms, I didnt get them.
Re: How-To: Modify LS1 Fuel Sender for 0-90 Ohm Use
Just wanted to keep this one going, it would make a good sticky mods.
Got my fuel sender unit last night and put it in, since I was using a ractronix fuel pump kit all I had to do was pop out the purple wires from the new sender unit and pop them into the racetronix harness(very easy), and I found that the whole sender unit goes right in the slot, the white plastic retainer clip will not go back in the same way, from the bottom to the top, so I put it in from the top to the bottom.
I am selling the second one that I have, so make offers if you'd like.
