scooter

iTrader: (11)

If it works man you are awesome! Way to keep up the research, thanks

Vader

EVERYTHING uses the plastic resistor assembly for sending units any more. Vans, full- and mid-size trucks, wrong-wheel-drive passenger cars, and probably even the bastard-child Saturns. I've had several apart for repair, since they have a relatively high failure rate.



The bifurcated contacts on the upper and lower wipers lose tension easily, and the pivot point wears quickly. Usually, they can be removed, shimmed at the pivot, and have tension added to the leaf contacts.

I have to wonder it it wouldn't just be easier to change the fuel pump onto the old ThirdGen pedestal.

87IROC350

Has there been any conlusion or update to this? Either using the correct resistor, a dealer replacement part, or using the 3rdgen pedestal??

Eagerly awaiting

92camarors5spd

there is a direct replacement 0-90ohm fuel sender the part number is located in another thread titled something like....the correct way to modify your fuel sender i started the thread hope it helps.

super_kev

iTrader: (4)

#25319676. Sender out of a '97 Grand Prix.

tuske427

so, to be absolutely sure- this prt # above is a 0-90 ohm resistor fuel sender that will work in the LS1 tank??

I just want to be absolutely sure before I go and order one and take the time to rip my car apart. I rely on it as a daily driver. (and yes, it sucks making frequently unnecessary trips to the gas station to top it off just to be sure I have enough gas in it without a gas gauge)

Please confirm

thank you!

super_kev

iTrader: (4)

Yes, I am positive. I just recieved mine and it is 0-90 ohms.

tuske427

Thank you, Kev! I'm tired of being a "sucker"

cam-

Meh my car is still not finished

Still glad at least this element is no longer a concern. Now about that wiring......

scooter

iTrader: (11)

The wiring is posted elsewhere. I have the pinouts but I will have to post it later

cam-

fastcars

Hey guys this isn't so hard.
Go into your local GM dealer and buy a fuel level sending unit for a 96-98 C/K pick-up truck. The parts guy will give you a box. Inside that box you will find 2 level senders. A 0-90 and a 0-260. All the GM level sender are pretty much the same and I know these ones are from my own swap.
GM gives you both because the truck could have used either one. You had to test the resistance on your old one, then select the one you needed and discard the other.

Fastcars

V6canvas

iTrader: (1)

Good info, thanks, any idea on the price difference between the c/k truck sender and the Grand Prix sender?

fastcars

I can look into it. $200 Canadian rings a bell but not sure anymore. I'm a technician at the local GM dealer here and I personnally have replaced hundreds of those things and thrown dozens of brand new ones out. Look at the picture of the sender, you'll see little fingers that move along the resistor board. Some additives in our gasoline will eat those fingers away to nothing and the sensor will no longer function. Here in Canada, Shell gasoline was the worst. Chrysler actually sued Shell over this a few years back.
Anyhow I can say that almost every GM vehicle from 96 up uses the same fuel level sending unit. They were either 0-90 or 0-260. Find the one you need and your good to go!

Fastcars

cam-

Can you post these or a link? I spoke too soon I dont have them

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I will do it when I get home later

fastcars

Here's the pinout I have for 2000 Camaro 5.7 liter.
All GM cars used the same wiring colors and the connectors on the later plastic sending units are similar.
Fuel Level Sensor/Fuel Pump




Connector Part Information

• 1216-0482
• 4 Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series Seald (BLK)

Pin
Wire Color
Function
A
PPL
Fuel Level Input
B
GRY
Fuel Pump Control
C
BLK
Fuel Pump Ground
D
BLK/WHT
Fuel Level Sensor Ground

Have others if needed.

Fastcars{

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

You guys are making this way too complicated and expensive. Just grab an Autometer or VDO universal sender and bolt it in place of the stock one, it takes very little modifying (If I remember right drilling 2 holes and splicing 2 wires), costs $30-40 and is more reliable then the stock senders you guys are talking about using out of the full size trucks (I’ve replaced 2 of those that failed with universals in the last 2 years)

Spike-Z

iTrader: (4)

97 Grand Prix sender uh... which engine? 3.1? 3.8? 3.8SC?

super_kev

iTrader: (4)

Non-S/C 3.8, before VIN #238198. Part # is in this thread.

mwfrels

I asked the local parts counter for just this and they came up with two part numbers: 19121306 and 25314215. Both in stock! With my trust multimeter that I had brought along with me I was able to verify that BOTH of these numbers are the 40-240 range senders. Neither of the part numbers were a box containing two senders. With this information I have narrowed my shopping list to the the Grand Prix 25319676 part.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...nder-swap.html

I can verify this part number being correct, I ordered it, tested and installed already

mwfrels

Yep! That's the one I have on order. That thread says that It has to be modified to fit the LS1 bucket or the resistor board has to be swapped. Got any details on what I will need to do? Pics by any chance?

scooter

iTrader: (11)

No pictures but it was pretty straight forward, I think there was a clip you have to remove then the board slides out, carefully, then you put the new one in. Be very careful not to bend the little wipers though

mwfrels

Last Saturday I received the 25319676 that I ordered and after opening the box I found two(2) Senders. They both appear identical except for the Fuel Pump plug on the little attched harness. One has the Camaro style and the other has a plug with smaller contacts. When I check them with my meter they are both 0-90 ohm. I was quite pleased with what the 25319676 p/n provided me but I did not have time to mess with the conversion.

Last night I gave myself some time and It was easier than you had mentioned. I guess I did my conversion a little different. I used the sender/harness that had the Camaro style plug. I pressed the pin out of the wiper arm / sender assembly and that allowed the board to come out freely after removing the retaining clip. I did the same with the LS1 sender and then reassembled the LS1 sender body with the new board and new wiper arm from the 25319676 sender and pressed the pin back in to have a fully functioning 0-90 ohm LS1 Fuel Level Sender. No drama at all.

The second sender that was in the box is also usable. Because the fuel pump plug is its own little two wire harness It can simply be removed from the big four contact plug and the Camaro style plug used instead.

I am happy!...

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I didnt want to mess with the wiper assembly and risk breaking it. I just removed the clip and slid the board out carefully, then put the new one in the opposite of removal.
Glad to hear it was just as easy to remove the pin though. If I ever do another one I will try that.
I am currently working on the plumbing of -6 AN lines front to rear. Also making it easy to remove if necessary later. I am taking puctures as I go, I should have some up this weekend.

mwfrels

I did it that way because I wanted to also use the brand new contacts on the new wiper arm. That way I would in essence have a brand new sender.

I am interested in your -6AN plumbing. The next planned step in my fuel system upgrade was to install stainless steel lines from Classic Tube to replace the lines that run from tank to engine bay. At ~$130/each thought they are quite pricey. A more cost effective solution I will pay some attention to. Where will you be posting the pics?

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I wil post the pictures here I guess, it will just be a link to my web site. I wouldnt call what I am doing a very cost effective solution though. I have probably $300 all in all, but I went with more expensive fittings and lines and I am putting in more fittings to make it easier to remove later if necessary. Originally I was going to go with the stainless replacement lines too, but then I got this tank. I am not finished with the lines yet. It keeps raining and I have to work outside on the ground. I should finish this weekend, weather permitting.
Thats cool that you also got new wiper arms, I didnt get them.

Diabloformula

Just wanted to keep this one going, it would make a good sticky mods.

Got my fuel sender unit last night and put it in, since I was using a ractronix fuel pump kit all I had to do was pop out the purple wires from the new sender unit and pop them into the racetronix harness(very easy), and I found that the whole sender unit goes right in the slot, the white plastic retainer clip will not go back in the same way, from the bottom to the top, so I put it in from the top to the bottom.

I am selling the second one that I have, so make offers if you'd like.

drain89

iTrader: (10)

subscribing

ericjon262

?? 2 1/2 years old buddy.

V6canvas

iTrader: (1)

For some reason mine worked right, straight away. I have a tank out of a '00 WS6, popped it into the car and 2 yrs later when I finally get it sorted out the gauge seems to be accurate. I never touched the sending unit, or my gauge. I was real cautious with how far I'd go, but whenever I let it drop to 1/2 full, only 8 gallons or so would go in, so I've gradually let myself go farther and farther on a tank. It's stored right now, but that is at least 1 thing that seemed to have worked out better than expected.

ShMaCk2004

was this a fail? no update for years

cyberleader

I would love to put a plastic gas tank in my 91 TBI but my mechanic tells me the modification outlined here will only work for TPI. Is this true and can anything be done to make this suitable for a TBI car?

cam-

Use either of those. If your mechanic has trouble changing this part out I politely suggest finding a new mech for this swap as this is about the easiest part of the whole build. Steps;

1. remove LS1 fuel tank sending unit
2. remove stock LS1 fuel level sender ( see pics above )
3. install new either 19121306 and 25314215 sender
4. Install sending unit back in tank

This thread is old as Moses

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Shouldn't be any different for TBI.

Except you need to do something different for the return line, like defeat the pressure regulator in the return so it allows the TBI regulator to control pressure.

But, the subject of the sender would be the same TBI or TPI.

blakecharles

I just called a few places about both of these part numbers and was told they both read 33-250 ohm...

What is it you guys are using for 0-90 or 240-33???

blakecharles

SORRY FOR BRINGING THIS OLD THREAD BACK...

I have a fuel level sensor from a 1997 Grand Prix, it's 0-30... can the current connectors be cut off and the ones that cam with the LS1 unit be put on instead?

super_kev

iTrader: (4)

The one that came with the LS1 is not 0-90 ohm. Purchase this one: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...nder-swap.html, GM #25319676. Sounds like you have the correct year, but possibly a supercharged model?

blakecharles

0-30 ohm will work fine with the gauges I want to use...
http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/5444.cfm

I just need to know if the connectors from the stock sending unit can be swapped. The 0-30 unit is only $20 btw... much cheaper then $130

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

This method seems easier to me.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...auge-40-a.html

cam-

First Ive ever heard of a factory 0-30 ohm but if its what you want and fits your needs then run it. We all swapped out the LS1 sender for the ones listed above which are 0-90 ohm when you wish to retain the stock third gen fuel gauge

3rdgenfever

just ordered 2 of them last week from my local ac delco dealer (cheaper than the chevy dealer) and when they came they had 2 in each box like the guy earlier said. I need one for my car and a buddies swap. The other 2 are up for grabs if someone wants them, just pm me and we can work out a deal.

blakecharles

someone please let me know if I understand this right.
when you order the new sensor, it comes with 2.. one with camaro connectors and the other with grand prix connectors. I'm guessing that the one with the camaro style connectors was used and the grand prix style is for sale.

what is it that ppl are doing to make the other work?? (I already asked this) Can the connectors be taken off the stock sensor and used on the new one??

PM sent

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The linked gauge is programmable. They say it will work with 0-30 ohm, but it'll work with a bunch of other ranges as well.

I wasn't aware GM ever used 0-30 ohm, but there are a lot of things of which I'm unaware.

$750 L98

The other alternative is to modify the gauge to use the stock LS1 resistance values. Only cost me a $1 and 15 minutes.

blakecharles

I would rather not modify my new gauge if I can just change the fuel sensor (LS1 tank is not in the car). But nobody is giving a clear answer. Is the 2nd sensor that comes in GM# 25319676 garbage or can it be used. From what I read it dose not have the camaro style connector.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

He meant the factory fuel gauge in the cluster, I plan on going his route

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Your programmable gauge will work with any of the senders.

blakecharles

Yes, I know. That was never in question... The 2 sensors that come in GM# 25319676 are not the same. They both are 90ohm but they don't have the same connectors (you get a Grand Prix and Camaro style). 1 gets used and the other gets sold.

I am a person looking to buy the unused sensor... but....
if it dose not have the same connectors how are you guys getting them to work? Are ppl using the connectors from the old sensor???

why cant I get an answer