I was considering running the factory TPI air bellows to the stock dual snorkel air cleaner, since I already had the filters and everything for it. This would save me from having to get a new filter and will keep the install 'stock looking' since I'm also running an accel base with the original TPI configuration. Anybody do this, or is everyone running the LT1 bellows with the filter off to the side? I dont even know the MAF sizes so I wouldnt know where to start as far as using silicone reducers...

I wouldn't do it. I think that the LT1s flow more than that stock set-up can handle. But, it would work as a stand in. I have no clue about the MAFs though.

Its been done but that TPI dual air filter setup does not flow well. All the air is flattened out. The f-body LT1 MAF is 3.5"

My buddy has a lt1 in his 85z. The stock tpi sucks it self shut at higher rpms.

How are you going to run the accel base on an LT1? The heads don't have the provisions for the water to run through the intake, plus the TPI setup will actually choke the motor down.

Easy. Accel makes a bolt on intake base for the TPI style LTR configuration using TPI fuel rails on an LT1. When you look at it, it's clear it's just had the EGR welded shut, port added in the back for the stock style EGR feed on an LT1 from the passenger manifold, and the bolt pattern changed and the coolant passages welded shut. Other than that, it's the same. Water pump causes some minor fitment issues with the rails, nothing that a little backyard engineering couldnt fix I managed to get my hands on a brand new one. They havent made them in like 5 years so I dont know if they are still available.

And yes, this does work on fourthgens as well. However if you want to run a superram, you need the fourthgen specific plenum for it which was still for sale last time I checked.

I have mine running with SLP runners and a ported LT1 throttle body on a TPI plenum. Bolts together as stock and could even look stock if you wanted to use a 'dummy' distributor to give the engine a serviceable cap and rotor. I didnt have timing marks done up so I didnt go that route and I am still using the opti for spark distribution (the opti's problem, BTW), but when I get the heads fully done up I'll make that change so it'll use a league of parts for the TPI as replaceable service parts. I'll post up some pics after it gets out of the paint shop. Looks pretty trick! And everyone goes WTF when they wonder where the distributor is lol

It isnt choking to motor that much. The stock LT1 heads flow some 35ish cfm more than L98's stock for stock, and these are untouched. I'm not looking so much for maximum HP, I'm looking for maximum torque. I already decided when I put my 434 small block in my '94 (LT1 injected, BTW =D) that the 10.3:1 383 in there (zz383 based with LE heads) will go into the IROC as a replacement with a smaller cam... with the intake and runners ported on top of that, so I'm not worried about flow!

I was wondering how long it would take someone to catch on... lol It doesnt have the shortfalls of the TPI electronics or the small MAF. It's a one of a kind sort of motor. Trust me, there will be a write up on all these toys when I get done with them. The IROC is first, then the big-inch LT1 injected swap will be next...

this is how i did mine, 3" pcv pipe from lowes, and a 35 buck k/n filter from autozone. take out the head lights and get 3 tenths at the track

these cars shoulda came w/ lt1s stock, that thing looks sexy. right at home.

I agree, to bad it will be coming out for a 383 soon. KABOOOOOM.lol

Im planning for an LT1 into my car possibly. Looks right at home.

Chances are id use the 1LE elbow and some custom work for the air filter

Don't waste your time or money on those 1le or stock rubber elbows. Get a metal one from vortec or flowtech, much better. Or try to find a silicon elbow, like what the turbo guys use.

im not a fan of those due to the heat they pick up being they are metal

Thats one way to look at it.

I don't like how easily the rubber elbows can rip or fall apart over time. The metal ones are smoother and allow for maybe better airflow, I would think. The silicone ones would be the way to go but I can't remember where I seen them and I know a few different companies make them.

Silicone then go 4" diameter thin aluminum after the MAF and put the air filter in a place where it gets cold air would be about perfect.