ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

im putting my built ls1 in my 87 starting monday

looking for solutions for the radiator hoses, power steering hose, and fuel lines

im running the stock radiator, and the fuel rails are from a 2000.

my car was originally a carbed 305

Spike-Z

iTrader: (4)

Up rad hose #: Gates 20893
Lower rad hose #: Gates 21505

Power steering hoses are stock here.
For the fuel lines, youre gonna have to modify them for sure. at least the last 2' before connecting to the fuel rail.

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

so the stock iroc power sttering hose will screw into the pump on the ls1?

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

I used the stock ls1 high psi hose and ended up using the stock thirdgen return hose. the return would have worked from the ls1 too but the thirdgen one was the perfect length.

you can see in the picture

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

ok on to the fuel lines now, i see this rail doesnt have a return line and my car did, what do i need to do to mate my fuel lines to the stock rails?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

What was said about the power steering and coolant hoses is good info.

For the fuel lines...you need to do some searching. Im pretty sure you can get a regulator, that will handle the return line. LS1s do have a return line sorta...but its way back by the filter. So only one line really comes up into the engine bay.

Me...I used a 4th gen tank. And I modified the 4th gen fuel lines to work on my car. Like Spike-Z said, the lines will fit perfectly up until you get to the front unibody rails on the 3rd gen. Last couple of feet before the engine bay. On 4th gens, the lines kick out and move around some.

My solution was to cut out the parts that didnt fit, and put the line back together with stainless compression fittings. Worked great, my engine bay is nice and clean, the lines connect and disconnect like factory, and I have no leaks. I built a braided line with russell fittings, and it looks great.

To me...that was a pretty simple solution. The other option is to build something totally custom using either the thirdgen tank or the fourth gen tank. Do some looking on here and ls1tech.com and you'll find a ton of info on how to set up the fuel lines.

J.

EDIT: Just realized your car was carbed... Im not 100% on what you gotta do then. You might be better off just switching to the 4th gen tank. Then you'll have the proper fuel pump, and you can either just use the 4th gen lines modified, or make your own fuel lines, building the "return" into the lines back by the filter.

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

i dont have the 4th gen lines or tank, im running an inline fuel pump. just was trying to figure out how to mate my lines to the fuel rail.

Diabloformula

I'm doing the same thing, I used a 01 trans am coolant hose for my lower and reversed it, works perfect, as for my fuel system if you want to use the in line pump just build new line and make it go where you need it, but be aware if your using hawks LT the drivers side is really tight so what I did was ran my fuel line though the drivers side unirail up front....do your fuel lines go on the drivers side or the pass. side on your old 305 setup?

IMO, go with a 4th gen tank and custom line

MrDude_1

on a fuel system, everything connected between the pump and the regulator, is at the regulated pressure.

read this thread, and you'll know enough that you can connect them.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...ight=fuel+line

you will need a return line of course.. it just doesnt goto the fuel rail, it goes to the regulator.
----------
oh and for the powersteering pressure hose just run a stock LS1 Fbody one.
for the return, run standard power steering return hose (your stock one works if you want)

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

okay, i bought the radiator hoses as described, do you have to cut the lower one down??? its longer and looks like its got an extra curve that i dont need.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Subscribing for future reference.

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

Update 9/12

engine and trans are in the car, and i got my lines on the passenger side working which i will detail later. power steering lines, radiator and hoses are installed.

I have a few issues though

after getting underneath the car to plug transmisison sensors and crank sensor on, i noticed the oil pan is sitting EXTREMELY close to the k-member. I used the spohn style mounts and put them exactly as the instructions say, and with the trans installed, it is almost sitting on the k-member. Anybody else having issues like this, The car has a big cam, and im afraid of it rattling or beating the oil pan. Any remedy?

Second issue, I retained only the factory battery/start wires from my original wiring harness that draped over the pass side of the old engine, down the front and back to the starter, When i do this with the ls1 in the car i have like 2 feet of extra wiring, is there a different way you guys are routing this or is it ok to shorten the wires? definately dont want wires hanging everywhere as a cllean install is my goal also.

third, Im running a fast 90 intake with a 90mm throtle body, Im In need of solutions and part numbers would be great to get a intake/filter setup. i would need a
elbow for the 90mm tb that would go into the stock maf, and tubing from that to plumb a air filter in to. I would like to get the airfilter over to the drivers side battery tray. Help on this would be greatly appreciated.

lastly, I had to use a ls6 style coolant crossover pipe for my fast intake manifold and off the front crossover pipe there is a nipple and a hose sticking off of this that im presuming would go to a stock style throttle body for coolant flow, but my 90mm tb doesnt have this provision. Is there somewhere else this goes or do i need to remove it, and plug the hole?

im sure i will have more questions as this finishes up, and lots of pics

kubus_stroinski

re: oil pan

the spohn mounts suck and we had to shim them and grind down the engine cradle to make it work. I can now stick my finger in there and before it was sitting right on. since it sat so low, i couldnt get the ac compressor in.

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

im not running a/c

will this be ok? i have this thing almost done and really dont want to yank the motor back out if i dont have to.

kubus_stroinski

Well if you're not running AC then the compressor wont be in the way but you might get vibrations from the engine sitting so close to the cradle under acceleration

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Are there any mounts that are better. I mean, that will hold the engine a little higher without shimming?

cam-

intakehoses.com

This is your steam hole it needs to be plumbed into the cooling system at a higher point than it exits. I used a piece of stainless tube and tigged a nipple onto it in the middle of the upper raqd hose. A lot of guys drill and tap the top of the water pump right above the thermostat and thread a nipple in there with good success. It does have to be hooked up though or you =risk cooking your motor... literally

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

going to the water pump would be lower than where it exits though, doesnt make any sense???

also does anybody know what sizes i will need for the elbow on the throttlebody side and maf side? car is an hour away and would like to get on them today from work

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

i contemplated doing the tubular k-member, and i might go to that in the future as that would free up all sorts of room

cam-

Funny enough I was pretty skeptical about that too and even got into a thread about here( see link below ). Page two has pics. Where the socket is sitting on top of the ruler is where mos guys drill and tap the nipple. I splice a piece of pipe into my upper rad hose. You can see a pic of that in link two

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...5&page=1&pp=20

The blue arrow points to the pipe I spliced in with a nipple welded on it

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...gine_compt.jpg

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

i like the idea of the radiator hose as opposed to drilling the water pump. The swap radiator hose i got though doesnt have the metal line. when you buy a ls1 radiator hose from a parts store will it come with that? or am i gonna have to improvise?

cam-

No it doesn't come with that pipe I made that up. I have more if you want one

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

or some directions to where i could get some, like OD or something... i assume you just cut your hose and put the pipe in there and clamped it down... seems pretty easy

cam-

Alright out of curiosity I just dug out the box with these pieces in it...

Its type 321 stainless. Thats a titanium stainless alloy and I asked around the shop what the heck we made these things for and apparently they were for some nasty chemical handling equipment we serviced a few years ago... The material is worth gold LOL. 5 times the carbon content of steel and corrosion resistance of stainless

anyways its 1 1/2" dia 0.35 wall thickness. I tigged on a small 1/4 piece of stainless tube for the nipple on the top of the pipe just slightly higher than the steam hole outlet. you are correct it was very easy. Mind you I did use a mandrel bent 45 to offset it around my air intake nicely. Heres a pic of the piece

ls1>*

iTrader: (32)

id like to have a piece like that.... you say you got more? just trying to figure out if it would be easier for me to do myself or not

cam-

Ya I have more. Exactly like that piece in the pic. Best bet would be to take a piece and when your fitting everything in you decide where to weld the nipple on and do it yourself. You can mig it too no problem. Anyways PM me your ZIP if you like and I'll send you a price shipped

MrDude_1

just a footnote:
it does NOT have to be plumbed higher or lower.. its a constant flow.

however, it is critical that it is hooked up. do not plug it.
the design of the heads allow potential air pockets to be created. this is eliminated by having a small stream of coolant going out from where these pockets could form. this moving fluid carrys away any air.




OEM setups include having it in one of the heater pipes (tahoes), or on the radiator endtanks (either one).
the top of the waterpump works good too, as its the exact same area as that end tank or the waterpump mounted heater return.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

For those who might want to know, I found out that the upperhose Gates part #20893 is for a 1993-1995 3.4L V6 Camaro. The lower hose is Gates part #21505 for a 1990 F-series 7.5L V8.

cabech984

Digging up an old thread but I thought this would be useful...

I used the 3.4L 94-95 Firebird upper radiator hose like everyone suggests. I bought the Lower radiator hose thats recommended but I thought it looked like crap on the car. I had a lower radiator hose from an 89 Pontiac TTA that fit excellent after about 5" cut off one side. It's Gates # 22958.

I thought this looked 100x better than the ford lower and it slips right on the water pump.

Atilla the Fun

Excellent, thanks!

Spike-Z

iTrader: (4)

22958 is discontinued everywhere btw. Just an update.