LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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I am using a SDPC 416 w/ milled L 92s and a small can for now and Hawk’s 1 3/4”. I have a T-56 w/32,000 miles out of a 2000 Z-28. I posted a question in the manual section requesting help in selecting a clutch but rec’d no replies.
This will be street only (may make a pass or two fun) and more for handling. Right now going with stock 3.42 posi but will probably upgrade with bigger rims and 12 bolt later.
The other question I have is the springs. I have been running stockers w/Bilstein sports, Global West front bushings, Herb Adam sway bars, strut tower brace, Alston sub frame connectors and some other stuff I can’t remember. Any recommendations on springs to keep level with no more than a 1” drop?
S/F, Mike
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I am using a SDPC 416 w/ milled L 92s and a small can for now and Hawk’s 1 3/4”. I have a T-56 w/32,000 miles out of a 2000 Z-28. I posted a question in the manual section requesting help in selecting a clutch but rec’d no replies.
This will be street only (may make a pass or two fun) and more for handling. Right now going with stock 3.42 posi but will probably upgrade with bigger rims and 12 bolt later.
The other question I have is the springs. I have been running stockers w/Bilstein sports, Global West front bushings, Herb Adam sway bars, strut tower brace, Alston sub frame connectors and some other stuff I can’t remember. Any recommendations on springs to keep level with no more than a 1” drop?
S/F, Mike
Try these clutches! I'll let someone else chime in here on the springs. Any of these would be great. I personally have the Textralia Twin Disc in my GTO and I love it. Pedal is only slightly heavier than stock, but has a much better feel. The engagement is like stock as well, but bites hard.
Your going to be pushing some power with that set up so I'd echo above and vote for the Textrilla. I'd steer clear of the RAM or the McLeod I'd go for a spec 3+ over either of those.
As for springs the Eibach Pro Kit is pretty common and works well. Slight drop over stock but high performing spring.
As for thinking about upgrading your stock rear? LOL better think quick cuz your rear will quickly decide for you Seriously though it wont last long at all with the power your making if you plan on using it at all
Your going to be pushing some power with that set up so I'd echo above and vote for the Textrilla. I'd steer clear of the RAM or the McLeod I'd go for a spec 3+ over either of those.
As for springs the Eibach Pro Kit is pretty common and works well. Slight drop over stock but high performing spring.
As for thinking about upgrading your stock rear? LOL better think quick cuz your rear will quickly decide for you Seriously though it wont last long at all with the power your making if you plan on using it at all
Cam,
I figured with stock rims and tires and driving it easy while breaking it in it would last. After I get done with the swap and research I am thinking a 12 bolt vice 9" as it's a little lighter and more efficient, not using drap tires, etc. I want to research some more handling as far as clutch style posi and maybe some built in negative Camber (-0.5?).
Well some guys have had luck with stock rears. Theres a couple of guys over at LS1tech who took them to tens ( on autos ) which floors me. I've broken many rears. Heck I snapped a 9 bolt pinion on a bone stock 305 5 spd car on goodyears so...
Still my thinking is this. Why bother modding for so much power if you have to nurse it along and not use it? I never really get that approach. I hammer my toys until they break and then make whatever broke strong enough to not break. Then after i stop breaking stuff I mod for more power and the cycle repeats LOL
As for the .5 degree neg camber trick it does work I've done it but it does make your axle bearings wear out a lot faster and it does zap a bit of straight line traction plus it wears the inside of the tires out much quicker than .5 neg front camber does. I assume this is due to the constant position vs varying position of the rears vs fronts respectively. In short its a mod that helps you "cheat" if you are very VERY serious about road course racing in stock or mild modified suspension classes. On the street you wont notice anything beneficial but you will still suffer the bad points so I wouldn't bother with it. Its a minor gain for a major pain... ( Major Benson Winifred Payne??? )
I have a couple of friends that fly the Nascar bubbas bubbas around, and they are the ones who specified -0.75 degrees or less on the street in order to not have adverse wear on the rear. Evidently there are some tricks to setting up the rear to run properly with some negative camber.
The reasoning is a rear end swap is relatively easy, but between it and good larger rims and tires I’m looking at another 5-8K. Money I’d rather not spend right now plus I don’t have time to get good research on sizing of rims/tires plus source a rearend shop that does the negative camber on a regular basis.
I have blown two rearends, then had a stout one built then blew out the bottom of the car. The rearend was ok but..
In fairness a LOT and I mean a LOT of rears especially the older leaf spring cars bend over time and make their own neg camber so its not a huge deal. For me? I have pretty wide and low profile tires at almost 500 a pop and I noticed the wear and the traction issue slightly. On the last build I reset camber to zero and I cant feel any difference in handling although I have no track numbers to show gain/loss. It might be there but as I said its a small gain and certainly wouldn't be enough to sway me one way or another on what rear to choose
i have Eibach Sportlines, 2" drop, they drive and feel like the stock springs and the stance they give is awesome, dont really bottom out or scrape on anything unless its a really nasty driveway, if your paying attention to where your driving you will be fine. If you only want a 1" drop i'd go wtih the Eibach pro kit.
For the clutch, i run a spec 3+, highly recommend it, i have a heads/cam setup with a 150 shot of nitrous, so the cars no slouch. The clutch holds great, no complaints whatsoever.
And as for the rear i have a Strange 12 bolt, 33 spline axles, HD Eaton posi and 4.10s, love it. The 4.10s with a 6speed is unbelievalbe, any rpm it gets up and gooooooes and on the highway 6th gear is your best friend, 70mph @ 2000rpm
MJ
__________________ 1988 Camaro IROC-Z
99' LS1/T56 swap.. now rumbling..
LS7 clutch seems to be the way alot of guys are going. SDPC has the kit with LS2 flywheel and LS7 clutch disk/pressure plate for around $500. I'm going to put one in my 4th gen when it goes out.
LS7 clutch here also but I think hes going to be pushing the limits of an LS7 clutch with that engine. Mind you the stock rear is going to go BOOM loooong before he comes close to finding the limits of the LS7 clutch so perhaps its the best bet. Cant beat the price or ease of driving thats for sure
I'm gonna "go against the grain" a little bit with my suggestion for springs - I'm not at all a fan of the Eibachs, for anyone who's doing anything more than ordinary street driving, I've heard too many times that they're less-than-optimal.
What I did when I lowered my GTA was to do some research, then bought a pair of stock-replacement springs from the corner parts store that were a step softer than the stock BZX springs. I then took 1/2 of a coil off, which gave me the lowering that I wanted, and a near-factory ride. The downsides to this are that the springs I got aren't powdercoated some spiffy color, & I didn't get any pretty stickers - but considering the fact that I saved about $120 over the "name brand" springs, I think I can live with that...
As far as the clutch goes, I think I'm going to agree with KLortho - the LS7 clutch would be a good one to "break everything in" with, but I suspect that once you start really "playing" with the car, you're probably going to find it's limits, & go to a Spec-3 or similar...
Hopefully I’ll get a chance to work on it next weekend, time permitting.
I don’t want to lower the car as I live in the country and have a gravel driveway (lowest estimate to pave was 22K). When I took out the L 98 the rear was already sagging a little bit, maybe find some V 6 springs?
SDPC had the LS7 clutch package complete for $400.00.
I plan on taking it relatively easy until the tune gets sorted out and funds permit a 12 bolt w/ 17 or 18 rims and tires.
I have the Eibach Pro Kit as well, almost a 1 inch drop but they are fairly stiff.
I had the SPEC 3+ but I burned it up in 9000 miles I have a habit of slipping the clutch for street driving and you CAN NOT do that with a SPEC. Otherwise, it's has great grip but it's like an on/off switch. I'm using the LS7 now but I haven't pushed it too hard, from what I've heard it will glaze over after repeated track use.
I chose the Ford-9 rear with 31 splines. Yea, it's heavier and takes a little more power, but I wanted to bullet proof things as much as possible.
Seriously though it wont last long at all with the power your making if you plan on using it at all 
I have a habit of slipping the clutch for street driving and you CAN NOT do that with a SPEC. Otherwise, it's has great grip but it's like an on/off switch. I'm using the LS7 now but I haven't pushed it too hard, from what I've heard it will glaze over after repeated track use.
