LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Well, ive decided to start off my swap. Figure its a good time while i have access to all the machines at school (im only 17) to make up mount's and any other parts ill need.
For anyone looking to swap a later 5.3 into a 3rd gen, im going to be doing a electonic pedal swap, which ill put info up for. Also note that if your going to be using F-body accessories, you will loose 1 alternator bracket mounting point, and also need to drill & Tap for the 2nd alternator mount (provisions are cast, but not drilled). The trucks & F-bodies share the same alternator dimensions so it iwll bolt into the bracket. You will need an f-body balancer, due to the fact that the truck belt runs about 3/4" further from the motor so the belt wont sit on the balancer.
While im doing the swap, my car will also get an LS1 rear diff, with the LS1 rear brakes, im doin an LS1 front brake swap, and also wiring everything up to the 4th gen dash in my car. The car also has 4th gen exhaust in it, 4th gen driveshaft etc etc. All work towards my "4th gen in 3rd gen skin" project
Here are a few pictures of progress i made today:
Old 305 is out!:
(its was a PITA getting the motor unbolted from that tranny )
New motor on the stand (I pained the block & rocker covers, F-body pan isnt on the motor yet)
And hanging in the engine bay Its certainly not ready to go in yet, but it looked cool hangin there
Ill be updating as i make progress
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
Oh, and one more thing. Im planning to re-use my 700-R4. So ill be running a TV cable into the car to attach to my throttle, so when i stomp on it, its pulled.
This is the plan. If it doesnt work out, ill be putting a 4L60e into it
So ill be running a TV cable into the car to attach to my throttle, so when i stomp on it, its pulled.
It's a lot more than that. The "TV" in TV cable stands for "throttle valve" - as in, a valve that adjusts transmission parameters based on throttle position. The geometry is critical, so don't just assume that if the cable is pulled all the way at WOT that you're good to go.
It's a lot more than that. The "TV" in TV cable stands for "throttle valve" - as in, a valve that adjusts transmission parameters based on throttle position. The geometry is critical, so don't just assume that if the cable is pulled all the way at WOT that you're good to go.
Yep, it requires are .400" Spacer, im still working this out.
Yikes. That wont work then. The electronic throttle body has no turning parts other then the blade inside the body, so theres nothing to hook it to.
Im wonder if its in my best interest to just get a 4L60 e?
I'm thinking of doing the 700r4 as well with my LS1. I was told I'd need not only the spacer and TV cable kit, but a torque converter lockup controller (B&M makes one) as well as a constant valve pressure kit (http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku). So....you're looking at $300+ for just the controller and valve pressure kit. Plus the TV cable kit and spacer, etc. The only reason I'm still considering it is I had the 700r4 rebuilt less than 10,000 miles ago and hate to just pull a perfect tranny. If I knew somebody with a good 4l60e, I'd be all over it.
I know there is a kit out there to adapt the T.V cable to LS1 throttle bodys... Wait thats electronic right.. Duh. Nevermind sorry. Youll have to go 4l60e.
I think you should be a man and drop a Nice T-56 in there lol. dont have to worry about tearing it up and you get nice gas miliage with it cause it has 2 over drives, and you get the joy of shifting gears.
Im going to do some research on the transmission deal. If i just need to adapt the TV cable, Space the Convertor, and wire the convertor lockup. Im going to keep mystock tranmission. If its more then that, ill head over to the local boneyard and look for a 4L60e tranny.
Unless you have a fresh hi-perf built 700R4 I would have to lean towards the 4L60E for numerous reasons. It likely wont cost you a nickel more and you will have tunability and modern tech support available to maximize your returns for swap dollars and time.
Not to mention ( I can speak from multiple *ahem* experience here ) that a 700R4 that works GREAT behind a mild 305 or 350 will turn to shred mighty quick behind any real power.
Plus if your 700 is still a good piece you can sell it.
I'll let you know how keeping the 700r4 goes. I've got my TV cable kit, spacers, bolts, and am ordering the lockup controller. I believe the TV made EZ kit negates the need for the full pressure valve body. These combined with tuning the computer for the older vss should all work out. On a side note - what vss pulse per mile does the new 4l60e use? I wouldn't mind changing the vss out and /not/ changing the computer if that's possible too...
I'll let you know how keeping the 700r4 goes. I've got my TV cable kit, spacers, bolts, and am ordering the lockup controller. I believe the TV made EZ kit negates the need for the full pressure valve body. These combined with tuning the computer for the older vss should all work out. On a side note - what vss pulse per mile does the new 4l60e use? I wouldn't mind changing the vss out and /not/ changing the computer if that's possible too...
Im not using the 700-R4 because im using a Drive-By-Wire Throttle body. The PPM from the 4L60e's are 4000, i beleive thats the same for all of them.
Quote:
have a question about engine mounts, you said you made them right? you have any pics?
Ill snap a few pictures tonight. I made 2 sets of them and i wont be using them. Their made of 6061 Aircraft Grade Aluminum, to the exact spec's of S&P's mounts. Let me know if you would like a set.
I Made every style of mount and decided id use whichever i liked best. Im using the Horseshoe strap setup as it allows me to position the motor as i please.
I made up 2 sets of S&P style because i cut too much metal, so i just made an extra set.
Ill take a shot of them tommorow night when i finish the strap ones up
Got the LS1 fuel tank mounted in the car tonight!!!!! Couldnt be happier. Big thanks to Justin (Ghettocruiser) for responting to my frantic IM's when i was having trouble figuring things out!
I modified the LS harness to plug to my thirdgen harness, guess ill see soon if it works or not
We need to get the headers out of the donor car so i can pull the fuel lines then modify them to fit into my car. From there i need to modify the rear brake hardlines to work on a block. Then mount everything up in the rear end. Drop the motor in with my straps/plates & get the mounts made up.
From there im hoping to order the Stainlessworks longtube headers, then ive got wiring.
Not sure how I missed the thread with pics of your car sheldon! Looking pretty good. Your car looks pretty decent. You seem to be making good progress too.
Not sure if you can help me in this field... but i have this engine with an LS2 intake, also on my way to owning a stock LS2 cam, would this be a good combo for the top end? Should I stick with a 78mm throttle body? I was thinking 90mm would be too much air, and not enough velocity. Anywho, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Not sure if you can help me in this field... but i have this engine with an LS2 intake, also on my way to owning a stock LS2 cam, would this be a good combo for the top end? Should I stick with a 78mm throttle body? I was thinking 90mm would be too much air, and not enough velocity. Anywho, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Later
keep in mind the stock ls2 cam doesnt have the ring for the ls1 cam sensor so unless you switch to the ls2 timing chain and front cover and extend the wires you cant use it. I'm also running and ls2 intake but i'm just going to get the $100 tb adaptor and run the 78mm
Just get the LS2 chain and re use your stock gears. The chain is fifteen bucks new and its the same chain they use on the C5R race engines that survive the 24 hrs at LeMans. Dont waste your money on those aftermarket chain sets.
Some guys frown on re using the stock gears but I did and so do many others over at LS1tech with no problems. I look at it like this; If your stock chain is not worn out and you want to upgrade for strength reasons then the gears should be fine. Obviously if your engine has a cozillion miles on it and the chain is worn out then the gears are too.
I sold my old 5.0L engine from my iroc, but part of the deal was that i put it into his convertible, so ive been tied up with that.
Besides that, the ups guy showed up last night, and delivered a set of professional products red anodized billet fuel rails. They look freakin sweet installed on my metallic intake. Ill post up pictures tonight.
Also bought an LS1 aluminum block/rods/pistons that i will transfer my 5.3L parts too during next winter and build up a LS1/6 engine, aiming for around 400rwhp.
Engine will just be a cam and heads engine. TSP CNC ported stage 1 heads, then a MS3 cam (havnt decided yet)
Will buy a bunch of bends and attempt to fabricate my own headers, or just buy the stainless works headers. Going to leave the boosted idea untill i finish the ls1 into the car, then maybe ill go boosted later.
Read alot of stories about a $3k turbo project ending at $15k. Cant afford that so ill put it on the back burner.
)
Couldnt be happier. Big thanks to Justin (Ghettocruiser) for responting to my frantic IM's when i was having trouble figuring things out!
