LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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View Poll Results: Did this swap make the power you would have expected?
The seats are a direct bolt in. I actually get allot of questions about the car, everyone thinks the seats and console are factory. Fits in great, its actually a direct bolt in also. The only thing I am lacking is a trim plate for the front of the firebird radio pod.
I agree that it looks factory especially being that they practically are I am just not a fan of the flow of it with the third gen dash. Are you planning to replace your dash as well? I see its got a lot of cracks in it.
I am gonna have to look around for 4th gen seats, thats official. What about the back seats?
I agree that it looks factory especially being that they practically are I am just not a fan of the flow of it with the third gen dash. Are you planning to replace your dash as well? I see its got a lot of cracks in it.
I am gonna have to look around for 4th gen seats, thats official. What about the back seats?
The seats are a direct bolt in, even the back. I have the back seats that match my front. I am going to replace the dash cover, eventually, its easy. I have just been concentrating my efforts on my swap, and making it drive like it came that way. Fast, efficient now, pretty later....
I actually had a buddy, who is a wiring genius, give me a hand. The wiring itself took approximately 3 hours, with good schematics. Now if I had done it on my own, with the little electrical experience I have, it probably would have been at least 6 hours.
I actually had a buddy, who is a wiring genius, give me a hand. The wiring itself took approximately 3 hours, with good schematics. Now if I had done it on my own, with the little electrical experience I have, it probably would have been at least 6 hours.
Got a question for you... The plugs that are under the passenger side dash that plug in to the engine harness.. what are the pinouts? What did you do about them?Also the fuse panel(driverside firewall) theres a mess a wires there and thats next on the agenda for my swap.Thanks
I didnt have to do anything to driverside firewall, I assume you mean the bulkhead connector. I used a Speartech wiring harness. Honestly, using anything else to wire in a harness, you would need to get the schematics from a factory service manual. You can find them on here just do a search.
Man I am DEAD SET on this swap. First I got to sell my lt1 t56, then my various tpi parts. Sell my 94 m6 z28, then pull my motor and tranny, sell it. Then find a t56/ls1 combo and get to work haha.
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One more thing. I have 2 t56's at my house. Both are from a 94. One is actually being used in a drivable z28. The other has been sitting in my room for months. Instead of selling the t56 that I have. Would it be worth keeping? Getting another bellhousing and ls1 and putting it all together? What do I need to make an lt1 t56 work with an ls1?
Last edited by BrOdBaNd; 07-11-2008 at 01:10 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
If I cannot use the lt1 style t56 then i am def going to sell it. Is there any way I can get it to work?
The clutch hydraulics are different since the LT1 is a pull clutch and LS1 is a push clutch. Also the front adapter plates are different.You can interchange them, but you have to change everything from the front adapter plate forward, including the input shaft. But behind that I belive they both are the same.
I was actually wanting to know about the K-memeber brace. Some cars had these metal triangular pieces on the 2 sides of the K-memeber. I think one side attaches to the k-memeber and other to the body.
You could order Spohn K-member with those on it.........but heard that there might be an issue of it hitting the LS1 AC comprossor.
Ahh those braces. I just took mine off and meant to replace it with something modded or fabbed up and never did. Drives just the same as before so no issues without it that I have noticed. I left the drivers side on though. I also have pretty major frame connectors on my car kind of half SSM and half Kenny Brown but they are welded in all throughout the underside so that might help stave off flexing issues.
I like the wheels on the car with the sides of the spokes black. I think the black on the car would look better if it were gloss and not flat. What exhaust is that? I really like the tone.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
Last edited by 91_5.7_TPI; 11-06-2008 at 12:24 PM.
I didnt have to do anything to driverside firewall, I assume you mean the bulkhead connector. I used a Speartech wiring harness. Honestly, using anything else to wire in a harness, you would need to get the schematics from a factory service manual. You can find them on here just do a search.
If you didnt use the bulkhead on the driver side how do you wire in your gauges? Im going to be doing this swap very shortly, and was just curious.
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91 Z28 6.0/t56 t76 turbo 512rwhp 570 rwtq
11.65@128
97 SS Camaro Procharged 435 rwhp SOLD
Very nice work bro! In the next year or so I will be attempting that same swap. Right now I have my built 355 and a T56 out of a 97 trans am. I love the six speed! Still didn't get my speedo working yet, to busy driving it!
__________________ 91 Firebird Formula 355 small block, 4 bolt main, Forged Wiesco Pistons, Stage II connecting rods, Stock re-ground crank, Dart Iron Eagle 215cc/64cc Cylinder heads, 246/246 @ .050 .532/.531 Solid lifter Camshaft, Holley 650 DP, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, T-56 Trans w/ Centerforce DF clutch, 3.73 Richmond gears w/ Zexel posi unit. UMI SFC's, Lakewood RLCA's, new front suspension. Hooker Super comp's, Custom 3" Y-pipe, Custom 4" exhaust over axle, Dynomax Bullet muffler.
Dude, drop the front tag, get some clear corner markers, new parking lights, new headlights, paint the wing, and the car would double (or possibly triple) in sweetness.
Are you planning on hooking up the A/C? Will the 4th gen hoses work?
My ac is hooked up, I had custom lines made. You just have the third gen lines and fourth gens lines mig welded together. It uses the original third gen controls as well.
I think the black on top looks sinister. I've received allot of props on streetfire. It looked like poop with the clear coat coming off. I am of the mindset, go fast first then make it pretty. I dump alloted of cash on the swap, I am pacing myself. Besides, people really underestimate it as an old worn out TPI camaro....
I do however have another video, me racing a 2001 Corvette. I look pretty fast next to him, but once he learns to drive it, he has only had it for a few days, he should outrun me. If you guys have a Streetfire account, leave some comments on my videos.
Has to be driver.But can relate as I pulled a 95 Viper from a light and when we were done I asked him if he knew how to drive....he had 120 rear whp more then me
Your dyno numbers look pretty consistant for a stock LS1. My first (97) C5 (stock) put down 313/332 rear hp/tq. But with Heads, Cam, LS6 Intake, Headers, and underdrive pully put down 430/400 rear hp/tq. @ 6500 rpms.
You should be able to get a lot more out of that LS1 then 285 rear hp too.
and for you guys talking about dynos.
a mustang dyno simulates load that's all. a dynojet can do the same thing with and eddycurrent...as well as a dynopack.
dynojets are calculate power off of inertia...spinning drums to measure power..but with an eddy current can be made to hold power...primarily it is best (all load dynos) for tuning. But I have seen plenty of 600+ rwhp cars tuned on a dynojet...with a MAF....and turn 11 sec and under in the 1/4.
the reason a dynojet works pretty good (with an eddycurrent) on a car like the C5 is that the car is very close to the drum weight of the dyno. There are two drums...each weighing 1600lbs...thus totalling 3200lbs. A C5 Z06 is 3150 and between couple and vert get to about 3350lbs. So it is almost one to one with respect to weight and is reliable.
mustang dynos do show about 8-10% less rear wheel power then a dynojet not using a eddycurrent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zacharyhorn
Very nice work bro! In the next year or so I will be attempting that same swap. Right now I have my built 355 and a T56 out of a 97 trans am. I love the six speed! Still didn't get my speedo working yet, to busy driving it!
Just curious what your setup put down for hp/tq numbers...what intake did you use (97=s LT1 right)?
Last edited by Shinobi'sZ; 01-14-2009 at 04:26 PM.
i am interested in how you made your y-pipe to work with the stock exhaust manifolds. i am planning on doing the same for now. thanks for any info.
I drove my car open manifold to an exhaust shop a few miles down the road. They made me a custom y pipe and mated it up to my exhaust. I will see if I can find a picture.
