I wasn't knocking it Bro..... And I am with you on the go fast. hence the 383 I have...LOL

been thinkin about it... not a fan of the 4th gen console... Doesn't go well with the car. I like the seats tho! are they bolt on?

The seats are a direct bolt in. I actually get allot of questions about the car, everyone thinks the seats and console are factory. Fits in great, its actually a direct bolt in also. The only thing I am lacking is a trim plate for the front of the firebird radio pod.

I agree that it looks factory especially being that they practically are I am just not a fan of the flow of it with the third gen dash. Are you planning to replace your dash as well? I see its got a lot of cracks in it.

I am gonna have to look around for 4th gen seats, thats official. What about the back seats?

The seats are a direct bolt in, even the back. I have the back seats that match my front. I am going to replace the dash cover, eventually, its easy. I have just been concentrating my efforts on my swap, and making it drive like it came that way. Fast, efficient now, pretty later....

how long did it take you to do all the wiring?

I actually had a buddy, who is a wiring genius, give me a hand. The wiring itself took approximately 3 hours, with good schematics. Now if I had done it on my own, with the little electrical experience I have, it probably would have been at least 6 hours.

that doesn't seem all that bad actually

Got a question for you... The plugs that are under the passenger side dash that plug in to the engine harness.. what are the pinouts? What did you do about them?Also the fuse panel(driverside firewall) theres a mess a wires there and thats next on the agenda for my swap.Thanks

I didnt have to do anything to driverside firewall, I assume you mean the bulkhead connector. I used a Speartech wiring harness. Honestly, using anything else to wire in a harness, you would need to get the schematics from a factory service manual. You can find them on here just do a search.

Here is a video of me racing my buddies hopped up 5.0 Mustang..

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1...991_167427.htm

theres enough reason right there yeah put that fox body in its place nice work man im envious

Man I am DEAD SET on this swap. First I got to sell my lt1 t56, then my various tpi parts. Sell my 94 m6 z28, then pull my motor and tranny, sell it. Then find a t56/ls1 combo and get to work haha.
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One more thing. I have 2 t56's at my house. Both are from a 94. One is actually being used in a drivable z28. The other has been sitting in my room for months. Instead of selling the t56 that I have. Would it be worth keeping? Getting another bellhousing and ls1 and putting it all together? What do I need to make an lt1 t56 work with an ls1?

The ls1 T-56 has a larger inputshaft. If you sell one of the LT1 T-56's pm me with a price.

If I cannot use the lt1 style t56 then i am def going to sell it. Is there any way I can get it to work?

very nice videos

The clutch hydraulics are different since the LT1 is a pull clutch and LS1 is a push clutch. Also the front adapter plates are different.You can interchange them, but you have to change everything from the front adapter plate forward, including the input shaft. But behind that I belive they both are the same.

I looks like you have zr1 wheels on first what size 17x9.5 17x11

They were stock rims from a 1997 Camaro SS. I think the were 17x9.

Do you have a weight after the swap?

I havent had a chance to weigh it yet, but I will. I figure it should only be about 2-300 pounds lighter than stock.

My Z28 is getting its first paint job since new. Thought I would share a few pics along the way.. or you can view more at STREETFIRE.NET

http://videos.streetfire.net/album/1...op_1432610.htm

Picture-001jpg_1432610_510.jpg

Did you have issues with the LS1 AC comprossor hitting the K-member brace on passenger side or did u remove it? I cannot tell from the photo.

Also your Strut tower bar , you are using, whats the make and model.

Thanks again

The ac compressor is in the factory location, I notched the K member. The strut tower brace is an Edelbrock, for a 1991 Camaro.

I was actually wanting to know about the K-memeber brace. Some cars had these metal triangular pieces on the 2 sides of the K-memeber. I think one side attaches to the k-memeber and other to the body.

You could order Spohn K-member with those on it.........but heard that there might be an issue of it hitting the LS1 AC comprossor.

Ahh those braces. I just took mine off and meant to replace it with something modded or fabbed up and never did. Drives just the same as before so no issues without it that I have noticed. I left the drivers side on though. I also have pretty major frame connectors on my car kind of half SSM and half Kenny Brown but they are welded in all throughout the underside so that might help stave off flexing issues.

I like the wheels on the car with the sides of the spokes black. I think the black on the car would look better if it were gloss and not flat. What exhaust is that? I really like the tone.

If you didnt use the bulkhead on the driver side how do you wire in your gauges? Im going to be doing this swap very shortly, and was just curious.

I had to tap into the bulkhead harness to wire in the gauges.

Most recent pics after paint job...Please notice the plates...


http://www.streetfire.net/profile/Bradlyj8Z28.htm
photo7.jpg

photo5.jpg

Dang that turned out nice!

any pics of ur y pipe?

Very nice work bro! In the next year or so I will be attempting that same swap. Right now I have my built 355 and a T56 out of a 97 trans am. I love the six speed! Still didn't get my speedo working yet, to busy driving it!

Are you planning on hooking up the A/C? Will the 4th gen hoses work?

Dude, drop the front tag, get some clear corner markers, new parking lights, new headlights, paint the wing, and the car would double (or possibly triple) in sweetness.

My ac is hooked up, I had custom lines made. You just have the third gen lines and fourth gens lines mig welded together. It uses the original third gen controls as well.

Has to be driver.But can relate as I pulled a 95 Viper from a light and when we were done I asked him if he knew how to drive....he had 120 rear whp more then me

Your dyno numbers look pretty consistant for a stock LS1. My first (97) C5 (stock) put down 313/332 rear hp/tq. But with Heads, Cam, LS6 Intake, Headers, and underdrive pully put down 430/400 rear hp/tq. @ 6500 rpms.

You should be able to get a lot more out of that LS1 then 285 rear hp too.

and for you guys talking about dynos.

a mustang dyno simulates load that's all. a dynojet can do the same thing with and eddycurrent...as well as a dynopack.

dynojets are calculate power off of inertia...spinning drums to measure power..but with an eddy current can be made to hold power...primarily it is best (all load dynos) for tuning. But I have seen plenty of 600+ rwhp cars tuned on a dynojet...with a MAF....and turn 11 sec and under in the 1/4.

the reason a dynojet works pretty good (with an eddycurrent) on a car like the C5 is that the car is very close to the drum weight of the dyno. There are two drums...each weighing 1600lbs...thus totalling 3200lbs. A C5 Z06 is 3150 and between couple and vert get to about 3350lbs. So it is almost one to one with respect to weight and is reliable.

mustang dynos do show about 8-10% less rear wheel power then a dynojet not using a eddycurrent.

Just curious what your setup put down for hp/tq numbers...what intake did you use (97=s LT1 right)?

i am interested in how you made your y-pipe to work with the stock exhaust manifolds. i am planning on doing the same for now. thanks for any info.

I drove my car open manifold to an exhaust shop a few miles down the road. They made me a custom y pipe and mated it up to my exhaust. I will see if I can find a picture.

It has stock manifolds, with 3 inch pipe back to a two chambered flowmaster, single in with a single out and a single 3inch tip. I am adding a Borla intercooled round/slashed tip in a few days. Plus and exhaust cuttout. I will add a video after I do. I got it painted, the black is now gloss. The pics are above.

what throttle cable did you use and how well does it work?

nice job on the camaro! the new paint looks much better. and the wheels look great i'll be picking up some 02 anniversary wheels if i ever what new wheels! if you dont mind me asking how long did it take to do the engine and the required stuff and how much did you spend on the total.

Nearly thought i stole your pain job for a sec in the pic but you stopped where i kept going, LOL.

I used the Lokar cable. Works and looks great. Only thing I did differant was put a screw through the mount into the firewall. Other than that, perfect.

I would say it took a couple of days to pull and put in the LS1, but I allowed a month total to work out all the bugs. I would say total I spent about 6000 on the swap. But I bought things I didnt really need. Such as a custom wiring harness, and and adjustable torque arm.

I added a QTP exhaust cut out to my car, thought I would share it...link below

http://www.streetfire.net/video/ls1-...ut_2001777.htm

Someone asked for pics of my y pipe. Stock 2002 manifolds, with a custom made y pipe. Ugly, but gets the job done.

Just wanted to share another pic. My Z28.com submission for the calendar last year.

Hey man, very nice car overall. I hope you continue to push this car to even greater heights. Any updates?

I added a Wonderbar to the front end.