LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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Has anyone swapped one of these engines into their firebird/transam? I've got an 86 t/a and I was wondering how easy/worthwhile it would be to swap this engine into the car. I have the engine, so its kind of a convenient thing.
It depends on what year... if it is a 99-00 (has iron heads and longer/wider crank flange) then you might have a hard time, in fact I bought an LS1 when I had a perfectly good LQ4 (16k miles) to use, I didn't know about the longer crank issues... There is a thread we started about that issue:http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...0-lq4-6-a.html (1999-2000 LQ4 6.0L fitment issues) some people just use a 4l80e instead of the 4l60e. Some use a 4l60e from an LT1. And some swap out the crank for a newer LQ4 or LS1 crank... My best advice is before you dump any money into it if it is a 99-00.
There is also some info at ls1tech.com just search... but if it newer then it is basically the same as fitting a LS1 into a third gen. Read the sticky on that here:http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...want-swap.html
Also you will need:
-The car style intake (I bought the LS6 intake)
-F-body front accessories/brackets (alt, pwr steering, A/C compressor)
-F-body oil pan (windage tray, pickup tube also)
-Will need fuel rails/injectors from car style intake
-If using truck harness you'll need injector connectors, Can get from Summit:http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=MSD-2400
-LS1 style "clamshell" motor mounts
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any specific questions,
thank you very much Jon for the information. It is from a 2003 sierra, and i intend to actually just use the block to make my own engine. What i was most concerned about was whether or not i' have to fabricate motor mounts and such.
I would get the motor mounts from Spohn, unless you know how to fabricate well... If you go to hawksthirdgenparts.com they have a LS1 conversion section, most, if not all of that stuff applies to you...
i'm thinking that will be the end build of the motor.
Actually, that article was the END of my plans to build an AFR-headed Gen-I 383... (In fact, that article is why I'm in the predicament that I'm in now... - more about that shortly...)
Actually, that article was the END of my plans to build an AFR-headed Gen-I 383... (In fact, that article is why I'm in the predicament that I'm in now... - more about that shortly...)
No, it's not a bad buildup ATALL, quite the opposite in fact - it has at least one notable advantage over the LS1 (larger bore size, allowing a wider variety of heads to be used), & one (rather small, IMHO) disadvantage - the iron block weighs roughly 80# more than the aluminum LS1 block. But whichever you use - LS1, LM7, LQ4, etc. - you're still going to be able to make GREAT power while still having very good driveability!
The problem that I have is that I'd already committed to buying a T-56 that's been completely rebuilt, and THEN I was offered a deal on a complete, zero-mile 6.2L that was just WAY too good to pass up - but the cost for the engine is considerably above my original plan. I started adding numbers today to see how far under my 'Max Allowed' budget I can keep it... and I'm getting really nervous. Not only am I going to have to pass on a couple of the 'toys' I wanted for the swap, I'm going to have to keep a sharp eye on "misc. expenses" so that I don't blow past my limit.
(The original intent was to have a 20% "fudge factor" for the swap, that number will likely be somewhat smaller now...)
As others have said, I'd guess that *90% of the time*, this swap can be done for around $6000 without compromising too much at all. It's just that getting a new engine & tranny caved-in the original estimate/budget forme...
No, it's not a bad buildup ATALL, quite the opposite in fact - it has at least one notable advantage over the LS1 (larger bore size, allowing a wider variety of heads to be used), & one (rather small, IMHO) disadvantage - the iron block weighs roughly 80# more than the aluminum LS1 block. But whichever you use - LS1, LM7, LQ4, etc. - you're still going to be able to make GREAT power while still having very good driveability!
The problem that I have is that I'd already committed to buying a T-56 that's been completely rebuilt, and THEN I was offered a deal on a complete, zero-mile 6.2L that was just WAY too good to pass up - but the cost for the engine is considerably above my original plan. I started adding numbers today to see how far under my 'Max Allowed' budget I can keep it... and I'm getting really nervous. Not only am I going to have to pass on a couple of the 'toys' I wanted for the swap, I'm going to have to keep a sharp eye on "misc. expenses" so that I don't blow past my limit.
(The original intent was to have a 20% "fudge factor" for the swap, that number will likely be somewhat smaller now...)
As others have said, I'd guess that *90% of the time*, this swap can be done for around $6000 without compromising too much at all. It's just that getting a new engine & tranny caved-in the original estimate/budget forme...
My swap so far has cost me $2700, heres a break down (think i got all misc. costs here)
Motor - $1500
Trans - $250
Fuel Filter - $8
Rad Hoses - $15
LS1 F-body Pan - $150
LS1 F-body Acc - $300
F-body Motor mounts - $40
Compression fittings for hardlines - $4
Header build kit - $180
Pilot Spacer - $45
Fluids - $100
DBW Pedal / TAC module - $100
Fuse Box/Relays to wire harness - $25
Air filter - $30
Plumbing for Filter - $20
I think that covers pretty much everything. My advantage was that i got a free Plastic Tank + lines, so my fuel system was really straight forward.
Truck Manifolds Can be used, however they must be modified to have a different flange put on so they clear the subframes. The truck oil pan hangs too low, no way around that. There are several kits on LS1tech that re-locate the alternator so you can use a car intake with the truck Acc. Wish i found that before i went off and bought a complete F-body setup. Oh well, live and learn.
Cool, thanks Sheldon, that's actually a bit encouraging to me.. I'll post up my guesses of what my costs will be later tonight, maybe I've been guessing a bit high... {crossing fingers}
Cool, thanks Sheldon, that's actually a bit encouraging to me.. I'll post up my guesses of what my costs will be later tonight, maybe I've been guessing a bit high... {crossing fingers}
Could be. I spent money on things i didnt need to, but i guess i made up for it in a few places where i didnt have to pay for something.
What i was going to do originally for fuel was get the Prof. Products Billet LS2 Fuel rails & regulator that sells for $170 on ebay, that id basically plug my thirdgen rubber flex lines into and be done.
Id really like to see you do that L92 swap, if it works, thats what ill do to mine next.
More then willing to help you out with anythin on the swap.
Sheldon
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I guess to add, i sold my Motor for $1000, sold my Truck brackets for $100, and im hoping to re-coup another $500 or so in truck parts ive got to sell (Waterpump, pulley, Manifolds, 2 intakes, Oil pan & parts, mounts etc)
On another note, if the motor is brand new, would it have oil in it?
If it never had oil in it, you could easily have the pan & pickup modified, which would save you a tonne of money.
Last edited by SheldonZ28; 04-13-2008 at 09:53 AM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
before you dump any money into it if it is a 99-00.
(In fact, that article is why I'm in the predicament that I'm in now... - more about that shortly...) 
I'll post up my guesses of what my costs will be later tonight, maybe I've been guessing a bit high... {crossing fingers} 
