Here we go again. Swap #2 has begun. LOTS of pics... - Page 14 - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

five7kid · 08-19-2009, 04:34 PM

This thread has surpassed the "Father/son swap project" (currently a sticky on the main Engine Swap forum) for most posts in a thread.

Of course, that one was closed almost 4 years ago. Who knows how many posts it would have by now had it been left open.

Pity the fool who tries to read both it and this thread in one sitting.

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Shift06 · 08-19-2009, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by five7kid

This thread has surpassed the "Father/son swap project" (currently a sticky on the main Engine Swap forum) for most posts in a thread.

Of course, that one was closed almost 4 years ago. Who knows how many posts it would have by now had it been left open.

Pity the fool who tries to read both it and this thread in one sitting.

Just in the swap forums? Cause Neal has a pretty big thread over in Body.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/bo...one-phase.html (Phase I done, Phase II-interior almost done, and now Phase III-drivetrain (454 LSX!))

ghettocruiser · 08-19-2009, 05:07 PM

Yeah I was gonna say...I think that one still has me by alot. haha. I never intended it to get this big, but having a thread for every little thing I do just gets hard to keep track of haha.

I just hope, if someone takes the time to read all my babbling posts, that someone learns something from what Ive learned...and my mistakes. I mean, I blew through the details of the swap...because I already have details in other threads..but there's still some good stuff in here

J.

five7kid · 08-19-2009, 06:18 PM

At the time it was closed, it was the biggest thread of which I was aware on TGO. The one you linked was started after it was closed.

Now we're only talking about the Engine Swap thread (and, at least, the forums I moderate) size-wise. But, that one still has a soft spot in my heart for several reasons:

1) It was a father/son project - the response to it had as much to do with that as it did the technical stuff

2) It all took place in less than a year

3) They finished up pretty much where they wanted to be from the beginning

4) It was an emissions-legal swap

5) Everything they did was well documented

6)The beneficiary (the son) had his hand in almost all of the work - and was no gear-head at the beginning

TPI TERR · 10-19-2009, 05:29 PM

hey man anything new to your ride?

ghettocruiser · 10-19-2009, 08:48 PM

Not really. I got engaged recently...so Ive been a little tight on money. I got some parts, but I still need to buy the injectors. Sadly, I believe Ill be waiting until spring to do the work and get it re-tuned. Between crappy weather rolling in, and just not having the time....it'll have to wait. Ive just been driving it. It runs really good right now. I just stay out of WOT because of how rich its running at WOT.

My todo list still includes: injectors and intake gaskets, catch can, add power locks, re-paint (hopefully spring), fiberglass spoiler, HID projectors, headliner/sunshade/sail panel recover, and probably a whole host of other projects that I cant think of right now.

Other than that, nothing really has changed. Still fires up every time and gets me where I need to go!

J.

Orinackra · 10-23-2009, 06:27 PM

Congrats on the engagement! or is it we're sorry? haha

ghettocruiser · 10-24-2009, 09:40 AM

Haha... No sorries here. She's great! We've been together for quite a while and FINALLY were able to move in together a few months ago. I would have proposed to her years ago, but I wanted to live together first. She's really supportive and honestly, I probably wouldnt have ever gotten my first thirdgen if it werent for her.

Quick story. I started dating her, and she lived with her folks in a development. I always loved thirdgens, and wanted one for a long time. Well my 87 was sitting in her development, covered in dirt and leaves, and I had to drive past it often. One day she basically forced me to take it for a drive. I bought it that day haha. I was SOLD. She LOVES the t-tops, and handles the scariness of the car now with ease. She even told me that when she sees houses for sale, one of the first things she checks for is a garage or at the very least room for a garage.

Keeper!

Ok...sappiness over. My trans/cluch/hydraulics are ticking me off to no end. For days, the shifting has been perfect. Butter smooth, light clutch, just fantastic. Then, out of the blue, stiffer pedal, notchy shifting...just horrible. Then..the next day...fine again. Then...etc etc. I dont get it. It doesnt seem to matter if its hot or cold. Sometimes, it will start out notchy as heck, and if I beat on it, it smoothes out. I have to really rip a hard start with a little clutch slip, then it seems to be ok.

Guess I have to add clutch fluid change and bleeding to my todo list. I really want to pop that new GM slave cylinder that I got in...but that requires removing the trans, and that makes me feel sick to my stomach.

J.

V6canvas · 10-24-2009, 02:43 PM

Well, congrats on the engagement!! Also very glad you've found such a supportive/awesome girl.

As far as your clutch, I am surprized you are still having issues. I've finally got mine up and running!!

2nd was very iffy going in unless I was winding out 1st. As I've driven it more and more, 2nd now only balks (feels like it goes in, but grinds when you let pedal out) when hot, shifting slowly up or down. I think that the syncro had been sitting for so long that it was 'stuck'. I think the 3rd gear syncros might be weak too as it is easy to accidentally pull it out of gear.

It might be a good idea to look at your gear set when you pull the trans for the slave. Hope you get it fixed soon!!

A10Beav · 10-25-2009, 12:30 PM

Congrats on the engagement! Also, glad to hear you're driving the car daily and that it's running pretty good.

Spike-Z · 11-16-2009, 08:45 PM

Hey Justin, what parts # did you buy from intakehoses.com?
Is that 4" piping? If you could pm me with infos it would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

ghettocruiser · 11-17-2009, 08:18 AM

Im not sure which part numbers I ordered...but everything is 4". I think the 90* elbows are the short radius rubber units. Then there is a 45* elbow. The clamps are listed as 4" for rubber or 4" for silicone. They have different O.D. I think. So just layout all the elbows and connectors, then match up the clamps.

My current set up goes like this. 4" 90* rubber short radius elbow, MAF, silicone connector, 4" tubing, 4" 45* rubber elbow, 4" tubing with IAT grommet, 4" 90* rubber short radius elbow turned down, 4" tubing, Amsoil DryFlo filter.

Also...Im running a nick williams throttle body. When I had my FAST 90mm unit, the 4" elbow fit right on. I had to use a spacer for the nick williams, as its slightly under 4". So just measure to be sure of what you need. Then just match up the parts on the site, order a couple feet of tubing, and the clamps to match...you're all set!

J.

Spike-Z · 11-17-2009, 07:39 PM

Thanks a bunch, Ill order everything this week! :chug:

ShMaCk2004 · 11-23-2009, 03:43 AM

where did you put the chains when you jacked up the front of the car?

ghettocruiser · 11-23-2009, 06:46 AM

With the radiator removed, I installed my wonderbar, and used the sway bar bracket bolts. I found this to be the best place. Nice and sturdy, spreads the chain well, and gives enough space for the hoist even with the bumper cover on. Just gotta watch it.

I dont think the wonder bar is 100% needed, but I figured it would only help.

J.

BlueZee28 · 11-23-2009, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spike-Z

Thanks a bunch, Ill order everything this week! :chug:

I just got my order in this week! The short radius 90* elbow fits my throttle body nicely, but the 4" rubber doesn't really fit my Z06 MAF at all. I'm going to have to come up with something to put around both ends of the MAF to make a snug fit.

Shift06 · 11-23-2009, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghettocruiser

With the radiator removed, I installed my wonderbar, and used the sway bar bracket bolts. I found this to be the best place. Nice and sturdy, spreads the chain well, and gives enough space for the hoist even with the bumper cover on. Just gotta watch it.

I dont think the wonder bar is 100% needed, but I figured it would only help.

J.

I think I may have to hoist my car up with my cherry picker to slide the tranny in from underneath. What setting did you use on your hoist, 1 ton? 1 1/2 ton? I'll be lifting mine with the engine in

ghettocruiser · 11-23-2009, 12:30 PM

You are going to just hoist it up and put it on stands right??? DEFINATLY dont try to work on it while suspended by the hoist. I tried to not even stick an arm under the car while it was on the hoist, until I had stands under it.

ANyway..safety advert aside...I think I used the 1-TON setting. The rear most hole is 2-TON, second is 1.5-TON etc etc. Cant be 100% on that... But 1 ton is 2000lbs. The front half of the car even with motor isnt 2000 lbs I dont think. If it is, it should still be ok to lift just enough to get on stands. Basically...I would have kept it on the higher weight setting, but I needed more reach due to the bumper cover. When I removed the motor from the 02 donor car, and my 87, the bumper cover was gone. So I had it set higher. If your bumper cover is on, you'll need to set it like I did, just to clear the cover probably.

J.

Shift06 · 11-23-2009, 01:30 PM

I won't even be lifting the car for more than a minute actually. Just long enough so I can slide the trans / jack underneath into the tunnel. Then I am gonna lower it back down onto stands. My floor jack / stands won't go high enough for me to slide the trans / motorcycle jack underneath, so I wanna use the hoist to lift it a bit higher until I can get it in the tunnel and lower it back down.

ghettocruiser · 11-23-2009, 03:06 PM

Just want to go on record here and say again... I HIGHLY..STRONGLY..EMPHATICALLY suggest not working under the car while on the hoist. Get something to boost your jack stands up, like old wheels. Or buy a set of 6-ton jack stands. Harbor Freight has em cheap if you have one near you.

I def wouldnt trust it while jerking a trans around under the car. The hoist trick is soley for putting the car up on jack stands, or for lifting the body off of the k-member.

Just wanted to re-emphasize my feelings on that...

BlueZee28: Did you measure your maf ends? I seem to remember my Z06 measuring out to 4"od. I didnt need any spacers or clamps in mine. Thats why I kept saying double check and measure to those that were asking me about the intake tubing parts

You should be able to make something work though..if its not 4" it has to be close.

J.

ShMaCk2004 · 11-23-2009, 04:12 PM

thanks alot, this looks alot easier than pulling the engine and dropping it in from the top since you have to get under the car anyway to pull the trans

Shift06 · 11-24-2009, 05:36 PM

I didn't mean that. I am not going under the car.

ShMaCk2004 · 11-24-2009, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shift06

I didn't mean that. I am not going under the car.

he's gonna make someone else go under it lol

JamieSweet · 11-26-2009, 10:21 AM

I'll go under, so long as noone jostles the car. It should stay like that for years, excepting wind or earthquakes, or someone working on the car.

coolmarocrzy · 11-27-2009, 01:52 PM

Hey Ghetto have you still not figured out the hydraulics/clutch issues? I thought you had ordered a ticks performance master cylinder and that was going to fix the problem. Just curious if it helped at all since my project is still under way and I'm planning out my parts list and details.

ghettocruiser · 11-28-2009, 09:59 AM

I did install the Tick master. Im still having off and on issues with my shifting. However I have a few theories.

One is...I used an Autozone slave cylinder, which may or may not be working properly. I do have a GM unit to go in when I pull the trans again.

Two is...my synchros are going. I feel this might be the biggest issue. My motor will be coming out at some point. When that happens, Im going to completely rebuild the trans at the same time. Sorta refresh everything.

Otherwise, Ive been very happy with the Tick parts and things are working well. Im using Super Blue high performance brake fluid and as long as I keep up with the fluid changes and bleed it every so often it is standable.

If a trans rebuild, slave swap, and new clutch doesnt make it shift the way I want...Im going to automatic hahaha.

stoning_volcom · 01-28-2010, 06:48 AM

is it easier to drop the motor from under the car then to put it over top? like you did? kinda new to the lsx swap world so tryin to figure things out so when i go to do mine itll make it a lil easier. also your brakes the ls1 conversion brakes you have on the car, does that allow you to put the 4th gen and corvette rims on without the spacers? and do they sell a kit for the rear as well?

Thanks, Evan

V6canvas · 01-28-2010, 06:17 PM

I pulled mine from the top, but if I was going to pull it again, I'd drop it like he did.

I have 98+ brakes on my car, needed small spacers to keep running my GTA wheels (1/16" thick I think), I don't think they change the front much. Contact Ed Miller (ebMiller) on here, usually can be found in the Brakes board. I got my setup from him, good guy, knows his stuff and is easy to work with. If anyone has a kit for the rear, either he will, or he will know who does.

What are you planning to swap in?

ghettocruiser · 01-28-2010, 07:00 PM

I like dropping it from the bottom better...obviously. For one, I dont even want to try to take out the stupid motor mount bolts haha. I also have my car set up to allow for dropping out of the bottom (brake line routing, etc)

As for the LS brakes...On the fronts, when you do the conversion, you shouldnt need spacers to run your stock wheels. It actually spaces your stock wheels out like 1/4" (thickness of the rotor hat). In order to run 4th gen or vette wheels on the front with the LS1 brakes, you will need a 1.7" spacer. I got mine from Skulte, but I dont think you can get em anymore. Im sure someone else sells them though.

IN the rear, if you are running your stock 3rd gen rear, you need 2.0" or 1.7" spacers. Im running a rear set up for a 4th gen, so I didnt need any spacers. Thats the main reason I went with 4th gen wheels. To fit over the front brakes, and to require no spacers in the rear.

J.

stoning_volcom · 01-29-2010, 08:58 AM

Why are the motor mounts that hard to take out? i no on my sbc it isnt hard or is it just a pain to get it back in? lol but yea ghetto i got another question for ya you said on the rear of your car you have a 4th rear end? if that is so wouldnt the rim stick out>? or is that with the use of stock 3rd gen rims?

ghettocruiser · 01-29-2010, 11:45 AM

Its not impossible to remove the motor mount bolts, but its a pain. That was just one reason though... its just easier in general in my opinion. No removing the hood (which is a pain to re-align on a firebird even with guide holes through the hinges), no tilting the motor and dumping fluids, no chains to figure out where to bolt onto the heads, no removing the intake for fear of the chains cracking it...etc etc.

As for the rear question, its a 4th gen rear with 4th gen wheels. So it fits and looks exactly as it does in a 4th gen. The rear of the 3rd gen vs. 4th gen are nearly identical. In fact, the only real difference is the total width of the rear. If you put 3rd gen wheels on the 4th gen rear, they will stick out alittle. Some guys have done this without it looking too too bad. But I didnt watn that.

J.

stoning_volcom · 01-29-2010, 11:50 AM

yea i did see one pic of someone that did and it didnt look good. So i ws reading some of the stuff on wireing up third gen for ls1 now did you use the hawks set up? or did you free ball it? either way ghetto you did one hell of a job. Its sems as though you are a perfectionist lol i no i am but yea great looking thirdgen. If you dont mind when i start mine ill prolly ask you questions not to good with the wireing but there is only one way to learn