Quote: Originally Posted by ghettocruiser The only way I found the leak was I was pulling the fitting to replace the o-ring, and I noticed it was wet. So....Im weighing my options, but its not gonna be fixed in the next few days unfortunetly. J. I bet that was your only prob. Glad to see you found it. If the fluid only came out when you pushed the clutch, its probably the only leak. If there were two holes, it would just drip out all the time. Kind of like the holding water in a straw trick. Im not familiar with the LS1 style master and slave setup, but id imagine its not too hard to replace JUST the steel line.... Im gauging this purely on speclation on what ive read in the various "drill mod" threads. Where it involves removing and replacing the line. I dont know where you would get a new line though. Maybe salvage one from a scrap master?

I found one at Summit, w/ the drill mod already performed (McLeod brand??) - it was $90 though...

You found the master, or just the hose?

The only reason i brought up the drill mod, is because i read that you have to remove the hose to perform the mod. Meaning you also have to re-install it. So it can be done. But i dont know who sells just the braided hose.

$90 - for just the hose...

In order to do the drill mod, you have to pull the master cylinder out.

The same procedure is used for replacing the line... However no one sells the line. You either get it with the master cylinder, or you get it used.

Some have diced up the parts and put together a list of stuff to build one, but you have to remove the slave cylinder and replace the quick disconnect fitting, and then the entire line is -an instead. Not really interested in that.

There is a new LS1 master cylinder coming out that I was going to pick up. But they arent shipping yet, and the earliest is next friday. I dont know if I want to hold out that long...plus Im not even sure if the thing will fit because its a completely different design.

Sooooo I dont know what to do.

J.

Well, continue to be undecided until next friday, then go ahead and order that thing up

Obviously only do this if you can find out if it will fit.

Im leaning towards just grabbing a new stocker. I just want the car back no the road, and I can have stocker by wednesday...or sooner if I get overnight shipping.

Im going to decide monday...and make my move.

Ill keep ya'll updated!

J.

Would the TICK performance one make a massive difference to make up for the time delay?

Im not even sure dude. Im not even positive if it will fit. I asked for pictures of the f-body unit next to a stock f-body unit so I could get an idea if it would fit or not. But I didnt get any. Its just too much what ifs. They are SUPPOSED to ship friday. So that means I MIGHT get it by the middle of the week. Then I have to try to fit it...and it MIGHT fit.

I just want the car back on the road. And if the leaky stock one was doing an "ok" job, then a non-leaky stock one should work fine. I didnt have issues shifting at 7k with a leak. So I shouldnt now.

I ordered a stock unit and it will be here wednesday or thursday. So wed or thurs it should be back on the ground. I dont see that taking me more than an afternoon of wrenching.

I also got my box fully enclosed and glued tonight. I brought it back with me and tomorrow Im going to seal it, put some water sealer on the bottom half in case my hatch leaks alittle, and cover it with carpet on the top. Then, when I go back to work on the clutch stuff, I can drop the woofer in and put it all back together.

Ill update with pics of the work , the box, and a report on whether or not it fixed it later this week.

J.

In keeping up with my promise of pics, even though these arent LS1 swap related, here are some quick pics of my sub box. I sealed it up tonight, used some sealer on the bottom half of the box JUST in case some water makes its way in the hatch. It will help keep the MDF from soaking it up. And I put on the carpet, and reinstalled the wire terminals.

I gotta say, it didnt come out as bad as I thought it would.

Keep in mind, I never meant for this to be enclosed. It was just supposed to be a top plate. So I had to work off the top plate to enclose it. I didnt want to spend any money..haha. So extra MDF was out of the question. Thats why you see the angled side...the sub hole was already cut, so I went with it. Its sealed, its tight, it fits, and its heavy. haha Im also a rookie at box building. So I have a lot to do different next time around...including renting a table saw.









All that sealer was smoothed out. I just laid it all at once.



The red dots are hole markers. I already had the wires and wire ties laid out and pre-drilled from when I had it in the car before. So I made a rub of the top plate, and then used the rub and push pins to find and mark the holes after it was carpeted. Should save me some time later when putting it back together.











Thats it. Ill take pics of it installed tomorrow. Im keeping my fingers crossed that the new master cylinder comes in. But if not, Im going to install the box and tear the old master out anyway. That way Ill be set for thursday.

J.

that came out great considering! something like that would be perfect for my bird...just enough to balance the sound...

WHOLE......LEE......CRAP!!!! Ive always read about how having an enclosed sub is way better than a free air set up. And I get it. But Ive never had a side by side comparison. I started with that 12 just hanging in that top plate. Nothing but the hatch well for an "enclosure". Sounded ok, but had no real punch behind it, and the bass was mushy and sloppy.

Well, after enclosing it, and putting it back together today, I tried it with the amp and headunit set up exactly as they were before I took it apart. And it was absolutly ridiculous how much tighter, better, and LOUDER that sub worked. It literally reminds me of how it sounded when it was brand new. I had to crank the amp down past the half mark to put it where I like it, and it would still shake the house windows if I cranked the volume. Im so glad I went through with this. I dont think Ill be buying new subs or amps anytime soon. This will more than do for what I like for now.

Anyway...here are a couple pics. Looks pretty good. I wouldnt mind putting some wire loom on those amp power wires, just to neaten it up some more. We'll see.







Lots of space under the t-top bag when I want the tops stowed.



In case your curious...the box volume is right around .85-.9 cu-ft. I was hoping for a full cubic foot...but I dont think its hurting anything. And I can always toss alittle poly-fill in there.

I also managed to remove my clutch master cylinder without taking anything extra apart. It was a royal pain. Mostly because of my homemade "u-bolt". I think I made it a tad long, and it interferes with the brake booster on the way out. Comes out but puts up a major fight. Im going to try to trim the bolts down and see if its easier to manage...if not, Im going back to nuts and bolts.

Ill post tomorrow...HOPEFULLY with a driving report.

J.

Looks good man, but I have just one concern - having the amp (& to a lesser degree, the sub) visible like that kinda seems like it might be "tempting fate", so to speak. I don't have any idea what the people are like where you're at, but it might be prudent to keep it fairly well covered...

Nice job!

Damn, nice work. It looks very professional.

Your "half assed" work seems to have climbed to a whole new level!!! Im impressed.

As for them being visible, usually you have to really look hard to see anything down there. If he has the T-top bag hanging over the edge like that, its almost impossible to see im sure...

Haha thanks guys. Im actually talkign to someone that has a hard cargo cover and matching rear panel for sale. If I can get my hands on that, Ill make a pass through in the bottom of the hard panel via some holes, re-carpet it, and just use that for conceilment. If I dont come up with that cover, Im going to just make a thin "top" for the entire thing.

Haha...although, maybe I should leave it as visible as possible so if someone wants to see what I have, they'll see a 10 year old MTX with water stains on the cone and a $20 Scorsche Walmart special amp lol. Wouldnt be worth goin to the clink over it.

Master cylinder and driving today!!!!!

J.

Well that master cylinder is in. After fighting with my home made "u-bolt", I threw it across the yard in favor of two regular bolts. Sometimes simpler is easier. Anyway, I got it all installed.

Turns out, where I had my adjustable one set at, was EXACTLY the same length as the un-modified stock unit. Soooo.... drill mod and install. No screwing with the rod at all. Fits easier too without that big rod end to worry about.

Now the so-so news. It STILL seeps alittle fluid around the quick disconnect fitting. Its just a tiny bit. With someone pumping the clutch, I can see it just get damp after being dry. So its not blowing fluid but I dont f'in understand it... There are only two reasons for it to seep that I can come up with. 1) the slave clyinder is crap and I still need to replace it, or 2) the fitting is being pulled alittle funny from trying to go through the hole in my floor.

I might actually pull the carpet up again, and make the hole bigger, and install a bigger seal/grommet so it can move around more. But for now, it does seem to shift better. Ive getting clean shifts almost all the time. But the thing still gets notchy every so often. I dont understand that either. Sometimes its butter, the next second its notchy. Its just weird.

So thats it for now. Im just gonna drive it, shift easy, and enjoy the car for the rest of the year. And hopefully get it inspected next month. If anything changes or I do something, Ill update this thread.

Thanks for following! Im still open for questions and ill still take picture requests if any of you need something.

J.

looking good what tb cable are you using on this set up ?

Its just a non-traction control cable for an LS1 car. My donor car had TC so I ordered a non-TC cable as well as a non-TC cruise cable. The cruise cable is super long which is nice because you can hide the module wherever you want. The throttle cable is just about perfect. It doesnt fit 100% into the firewall, and you have to either tie knots or use zip ties down at the pedal so you get the correct travel in the pedal/cable. But it was a simple fairly cheap solution that's been working great.

J.

P.S....Your pedals are working 100% perfectly by the way... Wish I would have gone with thirdgen pedals from the gate. I had to sacrifice the 4th gen set in order to make a stock un-modified 4th gen master cylinder rod fit...but Im glad I did.

hmm i see.. i know they are extra long . wasnt sure if you are using a different cable. but the 4th gen non tc usually measures about 40 inches right? your car is looking great . what else do you have planned?

The throttle cable isnt too too long. It works great for what it is. Im not sure on the total lenth. I have it hidden under the coil covers and tucked away pretty tight, so Its kinda hard to measure right now. But it should work great for anyone doing the LS swap. Its the cruise cable that is about 50feet too long..haha. Ok...a bit of an exaggeration. But its quite long. I have it going from the drivers side battery tray area, up the chassis rail, under and behind the brake booster, along the back of the firewall, and under the coil covers.

As for my plans for the car... Nothing right now. Just sort of drive it and enjoy it. Its never ending, because Im thinking I might freshen up my trans soon. Also still want to upgrade the master cylinder. In the future, I want more power. Much more. Im either going to go with a new cam and some other little goodies, or Im completely redoing the motor. Im either building a 408...something with more cubes... Or Im going forced induction.

So...I have lots and lots of plans. No money or time to do any of them now though. haha. Someday.

J.

You wouldn't have the part # for that cruise control cable would you? I've been looking for a while and haven't found it yet...

Im PRETTY sure its 12554668. Double check... You can always call GM for the part numbers or to verify. There are two numbers that come up. One for 98-01 and one listed for 00-02. Not sure why the difference and overlap. But Im pretty sure 12554668 is the number I used...

J.

Traction control vs. no traction control, I would guess.

There seems to be two different numbers for the cruise cable W/O traction control... But something tells me its a list error. I have the receipt for the cables I ordered, but no part numbers. I hate how gmpartsdirect and newgmparts dont list the gm part numbers on the reciept or in your cart...or when you look parts up. Its annoying.

J.

Well I kept look at ls1tech and found this info:
It's here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...t=cable+cruise

I got the one for the 00-02, so I'll take a picture and post when it comes in to see if it's any different. Thanks Justin!

are you running cruise control ?

Just FYI - that part number for the "The 00-02 cruise control cable (without TCS) is p/n 12565560" ended up being an accelerator cable. So...gotta order the other one. See pic:

Doh... I knew something was fishy with that list. The part number I posted should be the right one. I never did find any of my emails or receipts that showed what part number I grabbed. If I thought the number was still on my cable Ide check it for ya. But Im pretty sure I pulled it off.

Someone should really edit that list on tech, because I found the same information during a search. There is another list posted by ACW on there with correct numbers. Here is an excerpt.

LS1 throttle cable (98-99, with traction control - RPO NW9) = 12552267
LS1 throttle cable (00-02, with traction control - RPO NW9) = 12563651
LS1 throttle cable (98-99, without TCS) = 12565559
LS1 throttle cable (00-02, without TCS) = 12565560

The cruise cable isnt listed there, but the number that you ordered is and its labeled correctly.

J.

Hmmm, just so happens I don't have a throttle cable yet. . .

If you want it five7 - pm me.

Hey Justin,

Im workin out my stuff for my T56 swap. I saw you used thirdgen pedals, i know cam did too, im going ot go back through your thread more and take a look at everything, but how much better were the pedals?

Reason im asking, ive got a set of 4th gen pedals here, im trying to determine if i should use them or if i should find a thirdgen set.

Other thing, LS7 clutch, how's it been treating you? My new trans comes with an LS7 clutch, just been doing some research on them. Seems like their a real good clutch, and since its already w/ my trans...

Did Tick performance ever get back to you on the Master? Ive been curious if it would fit in, as ill be doing my master & pedals soon.

Ive been rather nervous about the hydraulics on the T56, ive been reading alot of peopel upgrade everything. And id love to run a RAM Slave and Tick Master, but thats $700 i dont have So im trying to determine what i can do w/ what i have. Supposidly my master i have now is new, and the line already has the drill mod doen by the previous owner, so im hoping the slave will be relatively new as i havnt got a chance to take a look at it yet.

Thanks!

Sheldon

Make sure the slave is good, don't skimp there. The slave on my 99 is slowly getting worse and worse and it's driving me nuts. Half of the time it doesn't disengage the clutch all the way and there are no external leaks.. Right now I don't have the time or money to pull the trans and replace it and it's my dd. Just a caution.. I don't plan on putting a stocker back in when I do it.. there's gotta be something better out there.. right now I gotta finish my Iroc so I have something to drive while the ta is down.. good luck guys!

Sheldon... Glad to hear you are making the T56 switch. You'll love it!

Answers...

So far, the thirdgen pedals have been much better. The only modification I made was to swap the clutch push rod pins. And since you have a set of 4th gen pedals, it works for ya. I took pictures and described what I did in this thread a couple pages back. But...The thing I love about the thirdgen pedals is the fit and reinforcement. The thirdgen pedals fit perfect...sorta like...they were meant to be They have heavy pieces of rod that go down and bolt to the master cylinder bolts. I have pictures of those too. They support things MUCH MUCH better than that flimsy piece of stamped steel the 4th gen pedals run. So far...so good!

Personally...Ide go with the thirdgen set is basically what Im saying.

LS7 clutch. So far, so good. Ive beaten on it pretty good. If its slipping, I cant tell. Its holding my power nice. Pedal feel is nice, when it wants to be. It disengages all the way, engages at about half travel. Cant say anything bad at about it yet. As long as the clutch you are getting is in good shape, I say run it. Run it til you kill it. Save up for a Tex like Im doing... haha.

Tick never got back to me about fitment. I havent bugged them lately though as I ended up just picking up a new stock unit. I couldnt wait any longer, and honestly didnt have the money to drop on the new master cylinder. I actually started sourcing parts to build the tick one to try to save money, but realized it wasnt worth the trouble. I will be bugging them again, but Im going to run it like it is for now. I didnt even make the new master cylinder adjustable. I found out that the stock master cylinder rod was at the same length as my other was adjusted to. So I just did the drill mod and stuck it in.

Hydraulics. I hate...HATE the hydraulics on these cars. I havent been able to get mine to work as perfect as Ide like. Do yourself a favor. Install a new slave now. Dont cheap here. Try to get a GM unit. Forget about the RAM piece. Forget about the RAM adjustable master cylinder also. Not worth the trouble or cost. Get a new slave, and you could probably get away with the master cylinder that you are getting, PROVIDED that there is nothing wrong with it.

When I say I havent gotten the hydraulics to work what I mean is... Sometimes the pedal is stiff, sometimes it feels really light and perfect. When its stiff, shifting is alittle notchy. When its light, shifting is perfect. Somethings Ill get in, drive to work with notchy shifting and stiff pedal. Hop in at lunch, drives perfect. Get out to pick up food, stiff pedal again. Its really weird. Been bled every way I can. Remote bleeder + pedal pumping. Remote bleeder + power bleeder. Mity-vac atleast 4 times. So, Im sure its bled as good as I can. Just weird. Has me totally stumped. Oh...and thats with a new slave and master...same behavior with the old stuff, and also with everything in the old car.

If you want to upgrade the master...Ide say wait to see if the TICK will fit. The other options will just cause you more trouble than they are worth.

That help ya? Some of my answers were sort of summarized. haha. Didnt want to type a story book.

My hydraulics are fried now too. I've been so busy I havent had time to care for the car properly and the fluid became dirty and now when I hit third the pedal sticks to the floor. Anyways not that above info helps any of y'all but Ranger ( the guy who took a stock ZO6 to 10.85 ) is pretty much the authority on the stock hydraulics and he claims the fluid needs to be changed EVERY WEEK but only at the reservoir which takes literally 45 seconds or so if you have a decent turkey baster or big syringe. I changed mine twice last season and never had an issue. I didnt do it once this season and now my hydraulics are toast ( bummer I know ) so I'm gonna replace them all and I might as well change the clutch while Im at it too even though its still grabbing fine I figure two seasons of the kind of abuse I put on it is more than enough and I'm surprised its still working so good the way I launch and all.

Anyways heres a nifty read with all sorts of good advice on keeping the LS hydraulics working well:

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html




P.S. Ghetto man I told ya those third gen peddles were the shiznit bro

haha..Yeah you did cam. One of the best "upgrades" I made this time around. About the only thing sweeter would have been starting off with a 5spd thirdgen.

I guess I dont see the merit in changine fluid in the reservoir every week... I didnt change the fluid at all in the 87, and it was doing pretty good. If it werent for the busted master line, Ide be running it still. Does the fluid up in the reservoir really make its way through the system? I would think it would just go back and forth and only come out of there due to fluid loss. Ive never experienced the sticking pedal or high RPM shifting problems that I read about. I just have notchy shifting and a stiff pedal on occasion. I can always run the car up to 6500 and a rip a shift without much issue. Seems like the more assertive you are with it the easier it goes.

I also am fighting heat by having my master line run inside the car. There really isnt any line exposed to header heat now, except through the floor alittle. And the place where its exposed outside I have wrapped. Im also upgrading my fluid to ATE Super Blue. Ordered a couple quarts and Im going to try that in conjunction with some different trans fluid.

On a side note...the clutch felt nice and light all day today. Most of yesterday and all of today. Im going to drive it a good bit today since its so darn nice out and see what happens.

J.

What I plan on using (recently put on the market): http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf4.aspx

As I understand this its dirt contamination from the clutch dust that causes all the problems in our cars

Hmmm, clutch dust gets in but liquid doesn't leak out.

Kind of hard to imagine that.

Heat break-down makes more sense.

True nuff I was just regurgetating more crap I read over at tech a while back. I'm not sure how the conclusion was that clutch dust was getting in but it made sense when I read it. Of course maybe I just had one too many that day or was that today?

Haha...well I definetly had one too many for a work night tonight. Darn hockey season...goes so well with beer.

Even with my slightly clouded mind, I can still say that dust getting into the hyd. system just doent seem feasable. I always though the dark fluid was caused by the rubber seals breaking down due to the heat + brake fluid. But if thats the case, then why doesnt it happen in brakes? Or maybe it does, but they dont get as hot as the clutch parts? Or maybe I had one too many the day I read that info as well? haha. Just thought I remembered hearing that.

I dont know. My ATE came in today. One day shipping time from tirerack! So Im going to pump it through one of these days.

The car drove absolutely fantastic today. Clutch was light all day, and shifting was nice and smooth. I DONT GET IT... If it keeps it up through tomorrow and the rest of the week, Im just not touching a thing.

I even powershifted last night for the first time. It felt so good I decided to give it a go. Actually it was a split decision because at the time I was racing an R6 and figured what the heck. It was a 3-4 shift, but even so, the effects of powershifting were pretty obvious. Just never stopped pulling and jumped with the shift. I wont be powershifting it again anytime soon, but I was pretty rough on it today some, and it still kept up with the smoothness. Maybe something was still breaking in? I dont know.

J.

I had couple silly question for you....

Where did you hook up the chains on the chassis to lift the front of the car up with the cherry picker? Can the same be done without removing the nose and radiator ? Any pictururs of how u a did it would be greatly appriciated
Also I see you used the 4th gen master cylinder, but not sure if u used the 4th gen brake booster also, if u did is it a direct bolt on or did u also have to swap/mod the brake pedal or pedal bracket etc.

I have a whole car

Thanks in advance

Master cylinder and booster are 4th gen Z28 that had ABS. They were a direct bolt in.** The studs on the back of the booster are smaller than the thirdgen, but will work fine with both 4th gen and thirdgen pedals. I really like the newer master cylinder...the booster works fine but I cant say its better than a thirdgen.

**When I say direct bolt in, I mean fitment. The lines require some modification. I chose to run a line lock as well as an adjustable proportioning valve. So that took care of my fittings...because the line lock and adj. prop. valve both have standard output fittings. And all my lines from there out were 100% custom.

I would NOT suggest lifting the front of the car with the radiator in place. But I do it with the the rest of the car completely intact. The nose, hood, fenders etc can stay on. Here are a couple "notes" on the lifting.
- I remove the lower air dam simply to allow the cherry picker legs to go under without bending the air dam. You will want to lower the car down as far as possible, so when you unbolt the motor, you dont have to lift up super high. The lower you can set the motor down, the less you have to lift the body to clear it...make sense?

- Def remove the radiator.

- Bolt to the sway bar bracket bolt holes using good, new, longer hardware.

- If you have a "wonderbar", leave it installed while doing this. It just gives the front end more support and will eliminate any chance of you tweaking anything. Id did do that this time, and didnt have a problem. But its a nice precaution.

Head on back to page 1. I have all the pictures from pulling the motor from my 3rdgen. And if you check out my earlier threads, you should be able to see pictures of the install in my first thirdgen...as well as earlier in this thread for install into my newest thirdgen. There isnt a whole lot to see, but you'll see why you need to remove the radiator and all.

J.

looks like you used the 4th gen AC controls. I would like to replace mine because my stock 3rd gen AC controls dont work anymore.

looks like it bolts right up.

So did u use the 4th gen body harness or , you just used the 4th gen connector and spliced it into the 3rd gen harness ?

looks like thirdgen bird controls to me...

Yup...thirdgen bird controls controlling thirdgen blower motor and vents with 100% 4th gen A/C components. Pretty decent set up if I do say. Works good.

J.

Had to make a minor repair this weekend. I have to go over a speed bump to get out of my apt complex. And it was causing havoc with my exhaust clamps. I have v-band clamps. The passenger side one wasnt turned right, so the bolt was sticking down. Well...the bolt kept catching the speed bump until this happened....





Caused a bit of a leak, and some rattles. Luckily, I messed up welding one of the flanges onto my headers. So I had to order another v-band clamp set. So I had a new clamp laying around. Made sure the bolt was pointed up, now I dont have to be so ginger over the speed bumps. Just kind of a heads up to anyone else using these clamps..make sure you plan your piping out so you have room to rotate them up out of the way.

The other thing I did was change out my clutch fluid for some ATE Super Blue. Good stuff as far as I can tell. Firmed up my pedal, and seems to have made it much more consistant. I still have some rough shifting from time to time... but overall it seems much better. Ill keep running the ATE from here on out. Might just swap my brake fluid out for it too.

One thing I have to address is my belt keeps trying to slip off. I think I have an alignment issue with my power steering pump pulley. Im going to change the belt tensioner pulley, and mess with the PS pump some to see if I can fix it.

Inspection at the end of this month...wish me luck!

J.

Same issue here I ate two belts trying to get that tensioner to work last year. Went for the Katech billet tensioner and never had a problem since it comes with a new pulley too

Oddly enough my hydraulics are working reasonably well now that the weather is colder. I've been evacuating the reservoir and replacing it with fresh fluid once a week and each week it still comes out dark although its progressively getting cleaner so I have my fingers crossed for next year when I do a clutch swap that they will still work.

I'm leaning towards this clutch

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=948618

Man... My hyraulics are bi-polar. One day they'll drive great, next day Im notchy as heck. Or Ill hop in, it'll be notchy, Ill park at the store, come out, and its perfect... Its so weird. Im just going to bide my time until I get a Tick performance master. I might do a rebuild/freshen up on my trans at the same time. Im starting to wonder if I have some wear going on in there...

I need to figure out whats modded in my trans. Im almost sure it has the viper upgrade along with all the other upgrades inside.

As for clutches...the next clutch I buy will be a Tex. No doubt in my mind. I almost think my LS7 clutch is slipping alittle on the top end. When my motor really starts cranking out power, above 6, I feel like there is an issue. But its hard to tell between clutch slip and tire spin sometimes.

Im getting belt dust on my alt.... And if you look, my power steering pully seems to be back too far. Not sure if the taper wore out and its allowed to go back further? I was going to just try the Supercharged Buick Regal pully mod. It only comes off when I wind the motor up pretty high. Ill figure something out. If not, I guess Im spending money on a Katech Idler.

J.

I think this thread will come in handy in a little bit. You do some neat work. I really like the way you handled the window switches. Seeing stuff like this makes me wanna get mine going.

BTW, HOLY CRAP did I just find my next project!!!!!

So i finally just went through this build and I am doing the same if not more on my 92z... my question, how did you keep things organized as far as screws/bolts for all interior parts/trim/etc...?

I guess I can zip lock bag and label everything but I think that would take forever

Any other (better) ideas?