online170

I bet that was your only prob. Glad to see you found it. If the fluid only came out when you pushed the clutch, its probably the only leak. If there were two holes, it would just drip out all the time. Kind of like the holding water in a straw trick.

Im not familiar with the LS1 style master and slave setup, but id imagine its not too hard to replace JUST the steel line.... Im gauging this purely on speclation on what ive read in the various "drill mod" threads. Where it involves removing and replacing the line.

I dont know where you would get a new line though. Maybe salvage one from a scrap master?

V8Rumble

I found one at Summit, w/ the drill mod already performed (McLeod brand??) - it was $90 though...

online170

You found the master, or just the hose?

The only reason i brought up the drill mod, is because i read that you have to remove the hose to perform the mod. Meaning you also have to re-install it. So it can be done. But i dont know who sells just the braided hose.

V8Rumble

$90 - for just the hose...

ghettocruiser

In order to do the drill mod, you have to pull the master cylinder out.

The same procedure is used for replacing the line... However no one sells the line. You either get it with the master cylinder, or you get it used.

Some have diced up the parts and put together a list of stuff to build one, but you have to remove the slave cylinder and replace the quick disconnect fitting, and then the entire line is -an instead. Not really interested in that.

There is a new LS1 master cylinder coming out that I was going to pick up. But they arent shipping yet, and the earliest is next friday. I dont know if I want to hold out that long...plus Im not even sure if the thing will fit because its a completely different design.

Sooooo I dont know what to do.

J.

V6canvas

Well, continue to be undecided until next friday, then go ahead and order that thing up

Obviously only do this if you can find out if it will fit.

ghettocruiser

Im leaning towards just grabbing a new stocker. I just want the car back no the road, and I can have stocker by wednesday...or sooner if I get overnight shipping.

Im going to decide monday...and make my move.

Ill keep ya'll updated!

J.

SheldonZ28

Would the TICK performance one make a massive difference to make up for the time delay?

ghettocruiser

Im not even sure dude. Im not even positive if it will fit. I asked for pictures of the f-body unit next to a stock f-body unit so I could get an idea if it would fit or not. But I didnt get any. Its just too much what ifs. They are SUPPOSED to ship friday. So that means I MIGHT get it by the middle of the week. Then I have to try to fit it...and it MIGHT fit.

I just want the car back on the road. And if the leaky stock one was doing an "ok" job, then a non-leaky stock one should work fine. I didnt have issues shifting at 7k with a leak. So I shouldnt now.

I ordered a stock unit and it will be here wednesday or thursday. So wed or thurs it should be back on the ground. I dont see that taking me more than an afternoon of wrenching.

I also got my box fully enclosed and glued tonight. I brought it back with me and tomorrow Im going to seal it, put some water sealer on the bottom half in case my hatch leaks alittle, and cover it with carpet on the top. Then, when I go back to work on the clutch stuff, I can drop the woofer in and put it all back together.

Ill update with pics of the work , the box, and a report on whether or not it fixed it later this week.

J.

ghettocruiser

In keeping up with my promise of pics, even though these arent LS1 swap related, here are some quick pics of my sub box. I sealed it up tonight, used some sealer on the bottom half of the box JUST in case some water makes its way in the hatch. It will help keep the MDF from soaking it up. And I put on the carpet, and reinstalled the wire terminals.

I gotta say, it didnt come out as bad as I thought it would.

Keep in mind, I never meant for this to be enclosed. It was just supposed to be a top plate. So I had to work off the top plate to enclose it. I didnt want to spend any money..haha. So extra MDF was out of the question. Thats why you see the angled side...the sub hole was already cut, so I went with it. Its sealed, its tight, it fits, and its heavy. haha Im also a rookie at box building. So I have a lot to do different next time around...including renting a table saw.









All that sealer was smoothed out. I just laid it all at once.



The red dots are hole markers. I already had the wires and wire ties laid out and pre-drilled from when I had it in the car before. So I made a rub of the top plate, and then used the rub and push pins to find and mark the holes after it was carpeted. Should save me some time later when putting it back together.











Thats it. Ill take pics of it installed tomorrow. Im keeping my fingers crossed that the new master cylinder comes in. But if not, Im going to install the box and tear the old master out anyway. That way Ill be set for thursday.

J.

mw66nova

that came out great considering! something like that would be perfect for my bird...just enough to balance the sound...

ghettocruiser

WHOLE......LEE......CRAP!!!! Ive always read about how having an enclosed sub is way better than a free air set up. And I get it. But Ive never had a side by side comparison. I started with that 12 just hanging in that top plate. Nothing but the hatch well for an "enclosure". Sounded ok, but had no real punch behind it, and the bass was mushy and sloppy.

Well, after enclosing it, and putting it back together today, I tried it with the amp and headunit set up exactly as they were before I took it apart. And it was absolutly ridiculous how much tighter, better, and LOUDER that sub worked. It literally reminds me of how it sounded when it was brand new. I had to crank the amp down past the half mark to put it where I like it, and it would still shake the house windows if I cranked the volume. Im so glad I went through with this. I dont think Ill be buying new subs or amps anytime soon. This will more than do for what I like for now.

Anyway...here are a couple pics. Looks pretty good. I wouldnt mind putting some wire loom on those amp power wires, just to neaten it up some more. We'll see.







Lots of space under the t-top bag when I want the tops stowed.



In case your curious...the box volume is right around .85-.9 cu-ft. I was hoping for a full cubic foot...but I dont think its hurting anything. And I can always toss alittle poly-fill in there.

I also managed to remove my clutch master cylinder without taking anything extra apart. It was a royal pain. Mostly because of my homemade "u-bolt". I think I made it a tad long, and it interferes with the brake booster on the way out. Comes out but puts up a major fight. Im going to try to trim the bolts down and see if its easier to manage...if not, Im going back to nuts and bolts.

Ill post tomorrow...HOPEFULLY with a driving report.

J.

V8Rumble

Looks good man, but I have just one concern - having the amp (& to a lesser degree, the sub) visible like that kinda seems like it might be "tempting fate", so to speak. I don't have any idea what the people are like where you're at, but it might be prudent to keep it fairly well covered...

Nice job!

online170

Damn, nice work. It looks very professional.

Your "half assed" work seems to have climbed to a whole new level!!! Im impressed.

As for them being visible, usually you have to really look hard to see anything down there. If he has the T-top bag hanging over the edge like that, its almost impossible to see im sure...

ghettocruiser

Haha thanks guys. Im actually talkign to someone that has a hard cargo cover and matching rear panel for sale. If I can get my hands on that, Ill make a pass through in the bottom of the hard panel via some holes, re-carpet it, and just use that for conceilment. If I dont come up with that cover, Im going to just make a thin "top" for the entire thing.

Haha...although, maybe I should leave it as visible as possible so if someone wants to see what I have, they'll see a 10 year old MTX with water stains on the cone and a $20 Scorsche Walmart special amp lol. Wouldnt be worth goin to the clink over it.

Master cylinder and driving today!!!!!

J.

ghettocruiser

Well that master cylinder is in. After fighting with my home made "u-bolt", I threw it across the yard in favor of two regular bolts. Sometimes simpler is easier. Anyway, I got it all installed.

Turns out, where I had my adjustable one set at, was EXACTLY the same length as the un-modified stock unit. Soooo.... drill mod and install. No screwing with the rod at all. Fits easier too without that big rod end to worry about.

Now the so-so news. It STILL seeps alittle fluid around the quick disconnect fitting. Its just a tiny bit. With someone pumping the clutch, I can see it just get damp after being dry. So its not blowing fluid but I dont f'in understand it... There are only two reasons for it to seep that I can come up with. 1) the slave clyinder is crap and I still need to replace it, or 2) the fitting is being pulled alittle funny from trying to go through the hole in my floor.

I might actually pull the carpet up again, and make the hole bigger, and install a bigger seal/grommet so it can move around more. But for now, it does seem to shift better. Ive getting clean shifts almost all the time. But the thing still gets notchy every so often. I dont understand that either. Sometimes its butter, the next second its notchy. Its just weird.

So thats it for now. Im just gonna drive it, shift easy, and enjoy the car for the rest of the year. And hopefully get it inspected next month. If anything changes or I do something, Ill update this thread.

Thanks for following! Im still open for questions and ill still take picture requests if any of you need something.

J.

TPI TERR

looking good what tb cable are you using on this set up ?

__________________

1987 iroc aka BLUE DEVIL 5.7 mn12
83z28 aka z28fst1 almost done

ghettocruiser

Its just a non-traction control cable for an LS1 car. My donor car had TC so I ordered a non-TC cable as well as a non-TC cruise cable. The cruise cable is super long which is nice because you can hide the module wherever you want. The throttle cable is just about perfect. It doesnt fit 100% into the firewall, and you have to either tie knots or use zip ties down at the pedal so you get the correct travel in the pedal/cable. But it was a simple fairly cheap solution that's been working great.

J.

P.S....Your pedals are working 100% perfectly by the way... Wish I would have gone with thirdgen pedals from the gate. I had to sacrifice the 4th gen set in order to make a stock un-modified 4th gen master cylinder rod fit...but Im glad I did.

TPI TERR

hmm i see.. i know they are extra long . wasnt sure if you are using a different cable. but the 4th gen non tc usually measures about 40 inches right? your car is looking great . what else do you have planned?

__________________

1987 iroc aka BLUE DEVIL 5.7 mn12
83z28 aka z28fst1 almost done

ghettocruiser

The throttle cable isnt too too long. It works great for what it is. Im not sure on the total lenth. I have it hidden under the coil covers and tucked away pretty tight, so Its kinda hard to measure right now. But it should work great for anyone doing the LS swap. Its the cruise cable that is about 50feet too long..haha. Ok...a bit of an exaggeration. But its quite long. I have it going from the drivers side battery tray area, up the chassis rail, under and behind the brake booster, along the back of the firewall, and under the coil covers.

As for my plans for the car... Nothing right now. Just sort of drive it and enjoy it. Its never ending, because Im thinking I might freshen up my trans soon. Also still want to upgrade the master cylinder. In the future, I want more power. Much more. Im either going to go with a new cam and some other little goodies, or Im completely redoing the motor. Im either building a 408...something with more cubes... Or Im going forced induction.

So...I have lots and lots of plans. No money or time to do any of them now though. haha. Someday.

J.

3.1EyeCandy

You wouldn't have the part # for that cruise control cable would you? I've been looking for a while and haven't found it yet...

ghettocruiser

Im PRETTY sure its 12554668. Double check... You can always call GM for the part numbers or to verify. There are two numbers that come up. One for 98-01 and one listed for 00-02. Not sure why the difference and overlap. But Im pretty sure 12554668 is the number I used...

J.

five7kid

Traction control vs. no traction control, I would guess.

ghettocruiser

There seems to be two different numbers for the cruise cable W/O traction control... But something tells me its a list error. I have the receipt for the cables I ordered, but no part numbers. I hate how gmpartsdirect and newgmparts dont list the gm part numbers on the reciept or in your cart...or when you look parts up. Its annoying.

J.

3.1EyeCandy

Well I kept look at ls1tech and found this info:
It's here: http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread...t=cable+cruise

I got the one for the 00-02, so I'll take a picture and post when it comes in to see if it's any different. Thanks Justin!