Is this possible - LS1 fuel tank in LT1 swapped car? I'm worried about the F.P.R. and return line and sending unit. Anything else I should worry about? Would the LS1 tank be better than the stock thirdgen tank? It should be the same as putting a LS1 fuel tank in a TPI car. I've just been searching and mostly its been LS1 fuel tanks going into LS1-swapped cars.

I dont see why it would be any diff then putting it in a tpi car......I was thinking about doing this to, it is a plastic tank and it has the charcoal canister in the tank so that will help clean up the engine bay

Just get the pickup bucket, or whole tank from the V6 car, it uses a normal rail mounted FPR.

Doesn't the v6 plastic tank have the 0-80 ohm sending unit too which is closer to the 0-90 thirdgen sending unit?

Will the v6 tank allow a dual fuel pump upgrade?

I have thought about it, never got around to trying it. If it would work I dont think you would have to swap to a aftermarket pump.

I'm getting the LS1 tank assembly on saturday. Is there anyway I can bypass the LS1 FPR in the tank so I can get my car running by saturday nite? I'm just looking for fast and temporary solutions here. Any store like NAPA sell the fittings I'll need b/c I'm thinking about running new lines or a section of new lines?

I am glad yo asked this, I had no idea that there was a FPR in the ls1 tank....

Any thing on this yet?

No tank in yet. Going to try to get it installed this weekend.

I've been asking around and the only answer that I got was that the FPR should be removable which isn't too assuring. Now, if can be removed separately and replaced with a tube/line is the question.

The FPR is right on the sender, I'm just going to have to open up the tank and find out myself. I got to make a trip to NAPA yet b/c they are supposed to have adapter fuel line fittings. I'll post the part numbers of those fittings if they have them.

FPR can be removed but is risky because it can brake plastic parts:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showth...ight=regulator

Got the LS1 tank in.

I removed the evap stuff and charcoal canister. The reason I removed them was b/c I didn't know if I could make the canister electronically run off of the LT1 pcm and I don't think there are any LT1 pcm outputs for evap. So instead, had to buy a little air filter for it and then used a vacuum tube adapter to step down the 3/8" air filter outlet to 5/16". Similar setup to this guy's LS1 tank: http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/ltx-lsx/413166-venting-evap-your-new.html?highlight=tank (Venting and !EVAP your new LS1 tank.)

I removed/gutted the regulator. Not hard to do at all. Take the whole sending unit assembly out of the tank. Remove the clip that holds the plastic piece of the reg on there then remove the guts from the metal piece. Totally reversible too, the regulator could be put back in.

Wiring was also easy. After removing evap/ccp, the only wiring left was the 4-wire connector to the sending unit. Connect the 2 grounds together which are the black wires which make there only 3 wires now for the 4th gen harness. Cut the harness/connector off of the thirdgen connector and connect the 3 thirdgen wires to the 3 forthgen wires, the wires are the same colors, match right up.

Didn't get to the sending unit retrofit modification. Radio shack didn't have the 10W 100ohm resistor in stock. Radio Shack sucks out loud. I'll get to it though another day.

For the lines, I just used fuel injection hose and hose clamps. I cut the nylon tubing off of the quick-disconnect connectors and just clamped the hoses to them. 4ft of 5/16" and 4ft of 3/8". Had extra left over. Probably 1ft or more of each. Was going to make lines out of hard metal lines but thought I should be fine on a basically stock LT1 setup. When I get more hardcore I'll put real lines in.

A lot easier to physically put in over the thirdgen metal tank.

edit: I probably could have made the charcoal canister worked by using the LT1 canister controller. Next time I drop the tank I'll hook it up.

I was under the impression the charcoal canister works to vent the tank if you just leave it open - no controls necessary. The only reason for controls is to purge the charcoal into the intake air stream. Perhaps I'm all wet.

What fp are you running? I have a tank havent opened it up but I am going to try and keep the canister.

Probably so. I have a hard time understanding the how or why behind the charcoal canister.
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I'm just running the stock LS1 pump for now. I plan on upgrading to a LS1 ractronix pump or dual racetronix pump setup in the future. I'll cut a hole in the back of the car for a fuel pump access door.

I just needed a fuel pump that works long enough til winter sets in and I didn't see the point in buying a new thirdgen style pump when I'm going to want to upgrade in the future. My Walbro TPI fuel pump went out after only 500 miles so I decided to upgrade to a LS1 fuel pump setup.

any update on this. Mainly wanting to know how you connect the return line?

With a LT1 with LS1 tank setup you connect hook the return line on the sender to the hard return fuel line. After you take out the fuel pressure regulator in the ls1 sending unit in the tank of course. I used fuel injection hose and hose clamps.