LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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Im sure all of you know & used this connector and im the only one who didnt
Anywho, im researching my new wiring plan, and i realized how useful this connector is. Its the connector that hangs beside where the factory ECM is, and plugs into the engine harness.
Im not sure on its pinouts for any otheres, but this is for a 91 Z28:
A-
B- Pink/Black - Injector #1 Fuse (10A)
C- Brown - MIL Control (Malfunction indication lamp)
D- Grey - VSS Output to Cluster
E- White/Black - Diagnostic Test wire - To ALDL Connector
F- Pink/Black - Ecm Power Fuse (10A)
G- Pink/Black - Injector #2 Fuse (10A)
H- Tan/Black - ALDL Torque convertor Control
I-
J- Orange - ALDL Connector - DATA input
K-
L- Blue - Pass Key Signal
M-
N- Orange/Black - P/N Switch Signal
O-
P- Red - VSS To Cruise Signal
I think i got every wire in the connector. Here's how id wire it into my harness.
C - MIL Control - Wire to MIL Control on harness
D - VSS Output to cluster - Wire to VSS output wire
E - White/Black - Connect to Class 2 Serial Data
F - Pink/Black - ECM Power - Wire to OBD2 ALDL Power
L - Blue - Pass Key Signal - Can we wire this right to the VATS wire in the LS1 harness? Tune the Ecm to recognize the thirdgen key??
What id do from here is cut my OBD1 Connector off, connect my White/Black wire to my OBD2 Class 2 serial data wire, conenct Ecm power line to OBD power and then ground, that way my OBD2 Data connector would be fully powered.
If we use this connector, combined with the C100 connector, wired as i stated there, what other splices need to be made? This would make the harness plug into 2 plugs & be ready to go would it not?
Sheldon, I have my car wired up how you described it above (except I have not connected the aldl yet) and I don't see any ignition power or am able to get the starter to crank. I'm assuming connecting the two dark blue wires for the VATS isn't doing me any good... Do I need to get a VATS disable box or do I just disconnect the two dark blue wires or something similar? Any direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Sheldon, I believe in my 87 C207 there was a brown/white thick wire for the fuel pump. Does yours not have this? How did you wire your pump?...maybe I'm thinking of the wrong connector.
Sheldon, I believe in my 87 C207 there was a brown/white thick wire for the fuel pump. Does yours not have this? How did you wire your pump?...maybe I'm thinking of the wrong connector.
Mine had the tan/white 16 gauge fuel pumpe wire in the bottom right corner of the C100. Think F4 was the number.
You listed the wire functions correctly. All of the heavy red wires come off the main terminal with the positive battery cable. While these can have power from any constant source, the most common is the factory location on the starter, thus they are identified as the starter wires while only the purple solenoid wire is
