LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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and I prolly should've researched that bracket on ls1tech before posting. Just hadn't seen much on here about it. I found it researching the swap for my S10
Cool. Let us know how it turns out. I'm not too worried about the k-member modifications...more about re-plumbing the AC.
__________________ KONIs I Eibach Pro-Kit I 36mm/24mm sway bars I Spohn: Adjustable PHB I Wonder Bar I SFCs Custom LCAs I LCARBs I J&M Products Camber/Caster plates I Hawk's Ceramic Pads I 4th Gen 3.23 Posi I LS1/LT1 Brakes
The alternator/PS relocation isn't an issue in 3rd gens. Jason was looking at what's needed for an S10 swap.
The Spohn tubular k-member would solve the issue. But, this is less than half the cost of that, gets the AC compressor out of the tight spot which makes running AC lines difficult, and makes it so you don't have to notch the stock k-member (which also means you can use the support brace on the passenger side).
The alternator/PS relocation isn't an issue in 3rd gens. Jason was looking at what's needed for an S10 swap.
The Spohn tubular k-member would solve the issue. But, this is less than half the cost of that, gets the AC compressor out of the tight spot which makes running AC lines difficult, and makes it so you don't have to notch the stock k-member (which also means you can use the support brace on the passenger side).
What about on the driver side ? Spohn told me that the Stock LS1 alt. for a F-body will hit the K-memeber brace be it a stock 3rd gen K-memeber or Spohn tubular K-memeber. The only other option according to Spohn is to use the 3rg gen Alt with custome brackets
Are u using the stock 3rd gen with your LS1 swap ?
Also even with using a Spoh K-memeber with a LS1 A/C comprossor is it still difficult to run the A/C line and also forgo using the K-memeber brace ?
I am just trying to see what route I should go. Buy both the relocation brackets or just the Spohn K-memeber.
Here is what I am trying to accomplish.
02 F-body LS1 in a 82 firebird stock LS1 exhaust manifolds.
Passenger side:
Want to use the LS1 AC comprossor and also the K-memeber brace
Driver Side
Want to keep the LS1 alternator and also the K-memeber brace.
What route should I go ?
1) Keep Stock K-member and get the 2 brackets ? ~$500
2) Buy Spohn k-memeber with brace mounts ? ~$495
With the original AC removed, brackets installed. Seems very stout and well-supported:
No AC compressor yet, imagine where it would go on the left in the photo side of the bracket (belt obviously too short now). The tensioner pulley becomes an idler, the tensioner moved and a smooth pulley from the kit installed:
I found a new Sanden compressor with clutch, serpentine pulley, and a bottle of ester oil from a 100% 6500+ rated eBay seller for $130 shipped. When it arrives, I'll install it, find a belt, and take pictures of the final product.
Now I have a factory compressor, mount & pulleys for sale. . .
One other advantage of this relocation kit: You can use the less expensive plate engine mounts with 3rd gen clam shells.
I bought said plates, found out they interfered with the AC compressor in the stock location, sold them to a local swapper who had helped me with the LS7 clutch kit install. . .
I look at that and ask myself....why did GM have to move the alternator all the way down there...
Looks pretty good. Will the stock 3rd gen AC lines plug into the Sanden compressor? I'm weighing this compared to the less expensive option of modding the k-member but then having to have the AC lines modded as well to reach down there.
Well, my stock 3rd gen lines won't fit, because it was driver's side compressor. The description says, "Fitting O-Ring type, suction side #10 and discharge side #8".
Summit sells the 4514 version for $195, $220 polished.
One other advantage of this relocation kit: You can use the less expensive plate engine mounts with 3rd gen clam shells.
I bought said plates, found out they interfered with the AC compressor in the stock location, sold them to a local swapper who had helped me with the LS7 clutch kit install. . .
What is this plate mount u were talking about.....Can u post a link ??
I am following ur lead by was thinking of the Spohn Lsx mount.! If there is better option......I would like to know
I am following ur lead by was thinking of the Spohn Lsx mount.! If there is better option......I would like to know
It isn't necessarily "better", just another option. If you relocate the AC, you'll avoid the swap mounts, notching the crossmember, and ease AC hose routing. But, you'll have the extra cost of the relocation brackets and Sanden AC compressor.
If you eliminate AC, you can use the Trans-Dapt plates directly. I considered that, but came back around to the creature comfort of AC.
I bought said plates, found out they interfered with the AC compressor in the stock location, sold them to a local swapper who had helped me with the LS7 clutch kit install. . .
Yeah, I need to get back over there & help you with your project! Only problem is that mine is taking just about all of my free time...
It isn't necessarily "better", just another option. If you relocate the AC, you'll avoid the swap mounts, notching the crossmember, and ease AC hose routing. But, you'll have the extra cost of the relocation brackets and Sanden AC compressor.
If you eliminate AC, you can use the Trans-Dapt plates directly. I considered that, but came back around to the creature comfort of AC.
LoL.....I am confused now....
Did u go with the trans adapt mount or
the spohn engine stand mounts ?
Also with the plates , I am guessing its recomended to change out the stock clamshells with the polyurethane one right ? What hardware/bolt would be recommended with the trans adapt plates ?
I went with the Spohn LSx to 3rd gen swap mount stands. Black.
With the Trans-Dapt plates, I'd certainly recommend replacing the stock rubber inserts with poly. I was going down that path until I discovered the compressor interference problem.
The Trans-Dapt plates come with the hardware needed to attach the plates and engine-side mount. You will need a stock 3rd-gen through-bolt to hold the two parts of the mounts (chassis and engine sides) together.
The Sanden compressor arrived today. Simple to mount up.
It's got a 7 groove pulley. Kwik says just use the front grooves, which looks like it aligns fine.
I ran a string around the pulleys with the tensioner held in between the indicator marks, ~98-1/2". On partsamerica.com, the stock application is a Goodyear Gatorback 4060790, listed as 6-ribs, 79" effective length. Searching 4060980 and 4060990, they are listed as 6-ribs 98" and 99", respectively. No 4060985 came up, so I'd guess the 99" would be the better choice.
Well, so much for my string measurement. 99" was too short. Guess I'll try the one recommended in the kit, even though it is for alternator relocation as well. It's about 1-1/2" longer.
Slowly plugging away at it. I've had a mental block starting the A-arm drop to get to the engine mounts and replace the front springs (not looking forward to that), so I've been doing engine preps like these brackets and the engine-mounted poly mounts, will probably do the LS6 intake install next which will be the last thing the engine itself needs. Still need to secure the gas tank filler to the body and run the wires for the 4th gen tank. And do the welding on the rear suspension, rebuild or replace the rear disks.
Nicely done, I think this will be the way I will have to go if I want AC, I think the stock AC setup would hit my steering box, so seeing this setup is a bit of a relief.
I know this is an older thread, but what are you planning to control this sanden system with. On mine i pulled out all of the old harness, including the AC lines to the old ECU.
Did you just retain the old control unit in the console and modify certain lines to work? Seems i can get the blower motor and heater to work with a bit of tinkering, not sure how to control a new unit though.
I'll be using the '82 heater/AC control. I haven't gotten that far yet, but the swap fuse/relay box I have includes an AC Request (input) and an AC Clutch (output) wire. Provide 12 V to the AC Request via the '82 wiring and a relay is engaged to power one wire on the Sanden AC clutch. The other wire on the compressor is simply grounded.
My first engine stab try. Looks like it might work if the inlet/outlet are turned down, but I've decided to do the "normal" thing and notch the crossmember.
AC relocation brackets, new Sanden compressor, 101" belt currently available. . .
It's closer than it appears in the picture. The engine was still up on the hoist and had moved to the driver's side a little by the time I took the photo.
Could probably rotate it up and be fine with the hoses. But, I already have the stock AC compressor, too. And, the stock one is more out of the way for things like plug changes.
I am a little torn. After I get the engine bolted in, I'll try the brackets one more time just to verify and see which I prefer. One unrelated factor is the connector is broken on the stock compressor.
by was thinking of the Spohn Lsx mount.! If there is better option......I would like to know 
Anything else going on w/ your project?
