Quote: Originally Posted by Pocket The clutch should have two things on it Clutch switch which interrupts the starter and another that interrupts cruise Gotcha, do you know which one is which? I am not going to be using cruise control most likely, so that eliminates one thing to do. I would like to have the starter switch working though.

Starter switch has two heavy gauge(14ga?) wires ran to it. Cruise is 18ga or smaller

Sorry I can't offer any advice on the trans wiring issue. However, I will say... this swap is going to be bada$$ when it is done! I love the 91-92 Z28s.

So I guess I'll know which is which when I get the wiring harness then, because all I have are the plastic ends of the connectors. Those wires are in the harness I got since it came off a M6 car right?

Nick,

missed the last posts on the 3rd page, so guessing here on what your asking.

The CPP switch, is a probe switch that when the pedal is up it press's the switch for a closed circut IIRC. This is for the cruise, then when the clutch is pressed it breaks the circuit and kills cruise.

For the starter, their is a big black brick shaped switch almost with i beleive a yellow input wire and purple output.

That is your starter safety switch

Gonna be a sick ride when you are done. You have more patience than me, I used a Speartech wiring harness. I hate dealing with wiring.

Oh I don't have patience for wiring either... I paid Pocket to do it for me haha

I love wiring for some reason. Its messed up :P

I didnt like it until I decided to make a 0411 harness for a SBC

15 harnesses later, its grown on me

Hey Jon, I sent you a PM regarding that coolant temp sensor. Advance Auto Parts seems to have the wrong part numbers listed for the 1998 fbody or something is screwed up.

I got my header bolts yesterday from Summit so I wanted to test fit the longtubes just to see how they look. I love them! I took my grinder to the driver side flange to make more clearance for the coolant temp sensor, I know some people have experienced situations where the flange was actually touching the metal part of the sensor, probably not a good thing.









I also picked up this nice piece from Tick Performance. It's a remote bleeder, you hook it onto the bleeder on the T56 and the line goes all the way up into the engine compartment to make bleeding the fluid a LOT more simple. It's definitely a recommended piece to put on there while the trans is out of the car. I'll post another picture once I get it on the trans and in the car.

You're almost there

Ya and its startin' to feel REAL good too...

Do you recommend dropping the engine and trans in as one piece with or without the longtubes attached?

Depends on your method

From above, remove the LTs and the wiper motor

From below, leave them on as well as everything else

Quick question for everyone who has the Hawk's/SW headers - do these look like the ones you have??

I'm going in from the top, so I guess that answers my question haha.


Rumble, what do you mean by that? Does something look odd about mine?

Looks gorgeous!

Im thinkin rumbles reffering to the polished finish. im 90% sure thats how their shipping now.

Nick, if your steering parts are in good shape and will come apart easy, id recommend dropping the car onto the motor (installing it from underneath)

I had trouble with my steering, but installing from underneath saved alot of hassle with tilting motor around and what not, and allowed me to get the headers on before i put the motor in and have them all setup.

put everything you can on the motor, even the harness. you can get to some of the plugs easier. put all the looms back if u took them off. root and tie off the looms away from headers etc.

make things easier and a cleaner install I think. If u have an engine hoist and some 3t jack stands it can be done easily.

If u were not too far I could come help you one of these weekends.

I would drop the car on the engine. I have pics on my thread putting it in from the top. It was a nightmare. I had to get the trans pointed almost to the ground, of course my hoist didnt want to, so I had a couple of buddies pulling on the tailshaft. I was worried something was going to break at the angles I was going at. If I ever do it again, I will lift the car.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...-z28-swap.html (LS1 1991 Z28 Swap)

I don't think dropping the car over the motor/k-member is an option for me. I don't have a lift, all I have is like 2 sets of jackstands. My floorjack won't even raise up high enough to get the car that far off the ground.

You can do it with an engine hoist.

i put my LS3 through the top with an engine hoist... however to make things easier i just put the engine in from the top, then installed the trans from underneath. it was no problem to do it that way and saved the worry of banging something up.

You can rent a hoist. they have a tow behind locally that's really nice and it's around $20 IIRC. You should have something similar in your area.

But yeah, you use the hoist for the body and I know that some people rig up dollies or whatnot to move the K-member around on.

If you go from the top you can either split them up or use a leveler to angle the engine trans combo as you're lowering it. IIRC, you need to have some tall jackstands for this though.

That's how I did mine as well.

I'm pretty sure that I remember one of Justin's posts saying that you could lift the front of the car up with just two people - if you had two people lift the front end, & one person push the engine/trans into place, it seems like it should be fairly straightforward... (And it would make those bolts at the top of the bellhousing-to-engine easy as pie...)

So I got a little Paypal crazy today, I bought and paid for an LS6 intake with rails and injectors from LS1tech about 10 minutes after it was posted up in the marketplace.

I also bought all the Russell fittings I need to make my own fuel system, just need to get some lines now, and I'm waiting to hear back from someone on a starter that I will be picking up as well. So now I just need to find a MAF, something to rig up a CAI with, and then when my harness gets here next week I'll be ready to drop it in the car.

lookin' good nick! what size/brand injectors are you going to be running?

The ones on there right now are 42lb Rotax Racing, but the LS6 intake I got came with stock Z06 injectors, 28lb I think? I will probably stick with the 42's

rotax huh? i've seriously never heard of them...but that doesn't really mean much. got a linky on any info?

I don't think they are made anymore but I will look. I got them in a trade for my old harness from the block for the injectors and a Professional Products adj. regulator, which I'm no longer going to use. I had to do a part number search on google to figure out who made the injectors and make sure they were 42's. Apparently they were known for high performance water craft.

from what little i did find, they're european of sorts...everything was in euros...

i don't have a ton of money to put into injectors, so FAST and Accel are probably out of my reach. Ractronix, however, has some for about $330...have you or anyone had an experience with those?

I don't know anyone off the top of my head. Have you thought about Ford SVO's? There's a guy on tech selling a brand new set for $200. I think they are 36 or 38 lbs

i'm going with 11.5:1 scr, trickflow 220's, and a correctly spec'd cam...i'm probably going to need the 42's. and my experience with used fuel system says i should probably buy brand new, lol!

You are going to have it together before you know it.....Can't wait to see it.

Nick,

You really dont need a lift.

All you need are some 3T jackstands, a tow strap , engine hoist and some way to roll ur engine tranny under the car.

As Justin has showed, a pair of furniture dolly works great. Use the staps or chain and hook it to the front sway bar mount. my staps where so long I had to loop it thru the strut mount holes.

Before you start , put the back wheels inside the front wheels. Works good and safe.

Get couple pairs of cement centerblocks if u think ur jack stands wont get that high.

K, maybe I'll try that. I'll have to take the k-member back out but that's not a huge issue. It's only 6 bolts holding it in anyways.

Rotax engines are made for Bombardier (aka Ski-Doo and Sea-Doo)

Yep, rotax is a canadian designed small engine, their bombardier engnies. Used in seadoo & skidoo, but primarily seadoo's.

Them things make over 250hp out of a little motor in a watercraft.

If your looking for cheap, high flow injectors, the stock injectors from the L67 are 41lb @ LS1 4bar pressure. (Supercharged 3.8L, GTP's, SSEi, buick super's, etc)

Im running those in my motor, work like a champ. Got 24 for $5 from the JY by me.

no kidding? i'll look at that.

nick, i'm running a stock, UNmodified k-member. my ls1/4l60e went in from the top with zero issues. with a tubular k-member, it'd be like butter.

I love it when the UPS/FedEx man comes, it's like Christmas haha.


I got some of the parts I ordered over the weekend today. And I got the wiring harness in as well, so I have a bit of things to work on this weekend now.

I decided to make my own fuel lines, so these Russell Performance fittings are going to be put to good use. I'm still waiting on two other fittings that are back-ordered at Summit though.



This looks like fun haha

i envy you!
i would kill for a 6speed ls engine in my car
looking great man.
good luck with that wiring though!

I just got my An fittings and lines for my conversion lines today too Nick, I love them now! I don't know why lol.

Yea I think they're real slick looking. I can't wait to get the other two fittings I need to finish the lines. I'm still waiting on the braided line too though haha. And I had to order the fuel filter through O'Reilly's so I won't have that until tomorrow.

More progress and mods.


The UPS man dropped off my LS6 intake, which I promptly installed on the motor after removing the regular LS1 manifold. While I had the intake off the car I also put on the knock sensor wires which I had forgotten to do previously. Then I bent the coolant bypass tubes downwards just a hair, and took a sander to the bottom of the intake manifold so that it would clear the LS1 coolant bypass tubes. I should have gotten an LS6 valley cover and bypass tubes, but alas, it satisfies the need.




I also took the modified LS1 harness out of the box today and began plugging things in. My first impression was that this is going to be easy. After a few minutes of plugging stuff in and pulling back the loom to read the marked tape on the wires so I could figure out where they go, I got it down to this. The only things NOT plugged in now are the a/c wiring, o2's, trans wires, the red mass of wiring that will go to the 3rd gen harness, and the wiring that will feed down into the fender and under the dash to plug into the computer. Ok, well there's a few more wires still not connected to anything, but those are just a few things I need to figure out what they go to first, but the majority of the harness is hooked up and ready to roll. I also got the starter I picked up last week installed on the block, which I wasn't thinking when I put that on before hooking up the crankshaft position sensor. That was fun lol. I'm thinking I will get a set of fuel rail covers by the time this thing is running too. I would love to paint a set to match the body color of the car.












I also picked up one of the last pieces to the puzzle today, a red top Optima for $110.

Your pretty close to getting it in the car!It'll be fun. Keep up the good work.

what are you waiting for? stab that thing in the hole!

I'm waiting for time between school and work to undercoat at least the trans tunnel, which would be impossible once the drivetrain is in place. Then I still have to cut a hole for the shifter.

I wish I had the money you did lol.

I was very fortunate to have a wife that let me spend some good coin on the swap. She even let me use my bonus from work on the car.

If I had a little extra money to spend I would have bought a really nice set of heads though. I've got my eyes on some Trick Flows or Patriots next year, along with a 12 bolt and 4.10's, because I have a feeling the 3.42's aren't going to be enough gear for the MS4.

Well enough people on various other forums voted for the powder coated LS6 intake, so I'm dropping it off tomorrow to get the same black-chrome powder coat as the valve covers. I'll post pictures when I get it back, so now I guess as soon as the intake is done and I get the hole cut for the shifter I will drop it in the car.

i need a local powdercoater...