i am getting prepared to start on ls1 swap next weekend and had few questions. The motor will be from 98 z28 camaro. It comes with the harness and 4l60e trans. From doing some research 4l60e should bolt in where 700r4 used to be. Is that correct? My understanding is that my stock tpi fuel pump would not work so i have to swap to 4th gen gas tank. How would the lines have to be modified to get it to fit?

there are several stickies above your post that entail most of these questions and most of the posts have pics as well to further help you out.

yea, i checked the stickies, still had some confusion mainly about evap system

If you want a working fuel gauge, and you arent using the 4th gen gauge cluster, forget about the EVAP system. The EVAP wont work... Do some searching...under my name if you want. Ive covered the EVAP hook up several times, and there is tons of info fuel lines and all. Do some research and get your ducks in a row before you start the project.

J.

i'm leaning toward using external fuel pump and take out the stock pump. What would be the best location for external pump?
this is the pump that i will be using:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

also would power steering hook right up to ls1 system?

well, i got the lb9 out but was not able to get the ls1 all the way in. I think i will end up having to take the starter or oil pan off to make it fit.

Looks like you are getting there. Why did you choose that fuel pump over and Aeromotive or Holley?

Nice looking car!

very nice!
good looking car.
really digging the wagon wheels, i got wagons on my 4th gens.
silver z06 prolly look better than wagons.

thanks, i ended up putting two scratches on the front bumper when trying to put the ls1 in and it still got stuck 5 inches away from the mounts
I am going for the second try this thursday and trying to round up few guys to help me. I really like the waggon wheels, the main reason i have them on there is because i put them on when i went to last auto-x event, i still have original ta wheels. I can't decide which wheels i like better, if stock wheels were wider i would probably choose them. One of the main reasons for using the fuel pump is because i got it together with a fuel cell.

b4 u stuff that in your car, i would recommend swaping out ur stock rubber motor mounts with poly inserts, i switched them out on mine before installing the motor and they are a huge improvement over stock. just a sugestion, especially if you ever have plans of putting headers on so your y-pipe wont hit on anything.

i agree, i have another set of wagons in my garage just in case, but i need them chrome. ive had wagon wheels on my fbodys since 98'
first set got of a wrecked corvette my uncle bought for parts. had them on a lt1, sold lt1 and threw the wheels on the ls1 in 99' still have them,

i had few hours to mess with the bird today so i finished on putting the motor in. Now i need to mod the trans cross member and do the wiring. I had to take the wiper motor and the starter off the motor to get it in. The coil pack that is noted in the sticky to hit the heater box turned out to be ok. I did take it off when putting the motor in, after putting the motor in i put it back on, it is definitely a tight fit and i will probably move it with a bracket because the vibrations of the motor are going to grind down the spark plug wire. And being stupid and pissed off on sunday night when i couldn't get it in i scratched the front bumper





motor mount was hanging on the starter so i ended up taking it off


wiper motor had to me removed as well

and very tight fit here


finally in


front bumper is now scratched. it sux

will shorty headers for a fourth gen work on thirdgen? The studs on one of the manifolds broke on me. I can't afford swap headers but probably can get enough cash for shorty headers.

i got more questions, a tried putting my torque arm onto the trans and it didn't fit, so do i need to get a torque arm mount from an ls1 car? Also the transmission cross member didn't fit and looks like the middle needs to be cut and moved two inches back. Is this correct?

torque arms are diff between third gens and 4th gens. get a stock tq arm off a 4th gen car. it will be a direct fit part.

factory exhaust manifolds from 01-02 cars flow just as well as shorty headers and can be had for a fraction of the cost

Ditto on what these two guys said.

I always thought the 4l60e would bolt into place of the 700R4, and that only the T56 needed the modified crossmember....but I could be wrong. If you have the motor bolted in, and the crossmember isnt right....then there's your answer. Can you weld? If so, you can pretty easily modify your crossmember to work...or build a new one.

Lookin good! Atleast the motor is in-ish...!!

J.

i don't have a welder, i'm going to get somebody to modify the crossmember for me. I will search for some 01-02 manifolds and try to sell the ones i have. Next question i had is will the stock ls1 y-pipe clear 3rd gen underbody?

Just use the stock manifolds that you have. The y-pipe will not fit the 3rd gen car.....not even close. you will have to get a custom built y-pipe to fit your car.

finally i have the trans crossmember modified and should have it in the car by the end of this week. Also i picked up 4th gen rear with 3.42 gears, working posi and disc brakes which should be a nice upgrade over the 2.73 drum rear.

need some help with the wiring. Am i correct that all the wires that led to sensors in the engine bay will need to be cut? Also the new computer basically replaces old one under the dash and all the wires that are still needed need to connect to the new computer?

picture of the crossmember mounted and the steam tube solution that i used. I'm going to attack the wiring again this weekend. I figure that the only wires in the engine bay that used to go too the old motor and need to keep are oilt pressure sensor and water temp sensor. I will see if i can get stock sensors and adapt to ls1 or see if i can splice the wires.

Looking good.
Are you going to shorten the 4th gen rear?

you can remove the entire engine harness and computer from the car. don't cut it, you can sell it, TPI is still a pretty popular swap. the wires you will be using are on the driver side of the car next to your brake booster. that's your body harness and headlight harness.

I will try to remove the whole harness in one piece. installed the 4th gen rear end last weekend and took the fuel pump out. I need to know what size are the fittings on the fuel line going from the fuel tank so i can add inline electric pump, if anybody knows please post up. Picture is below. After installing the 4th gen rear end it looks like that i still need to run spacers but need to be 1" instead of 2" spacers i had. Need to see if somebody would want to trade.




it can be seen how far the wheels are sticking out in the folowing picture

I don't think that's too much at all - it looks fine to me!

Are you running an adjustable panhard bar?

If not, and if it sticks out on one side more than the other, you can get one to center it better.

Most people who run a 4th gen rear end, with 4th gen wheels (or Vette wheels) don't use spacers on the rear at all. Just up front.

Using an adjustable panhard bar, I've gotten both my wheels less than 1/8" in under the fenders, on both sides.

c5 wheels require spacers to run on 4th gens so even with 4th gen rear ii still need spacers, just smaller than what i have. Anybody know the size of the fuel line connector in the picture above?

And you get that idea from where? I've never heard of that, nor even heard of different spacers being needed.

Wheel-------------------Size----------------Offset/Backspacing--------Adapter Needed
Camaro 93-97----------16x8---------------55mm/6.5"------------------2"
C5 Corvette 97-2000--18x9.5 rear-------63mm/7.6"------------------2"
C5 Corvette Z06-------18x10.5 rear------58mm/7.9"------------------2" Rear

4tgh gen wheels or C5s, both require 2" adapters, so why would you need different sizes?

When I put my 4th gen rear in, I ended up having to put 1/4 in. wheel spacers and longer wheel studs on to keep my C5 wheels from hitting the bump stops. IIRC the stock rear end is the only rear that requires a minimum of 2'' spacers. The 4th gen rear is approx 2'' longer on each side, the measurements are a little different between the LT1 and LS1 rears.

i thought it was longer 2" overall. I talked to few people locally with 4th gens that were running vette wheel and they told me that they are running small spacers. Is there any way to measure or find out what size the fuel line fittings are?
I haven't done as much progress on the car as i wanted to since i started mainly because i am working on getting the Camaro running at the same time which eats up a lot of resources. And yes, i did steal the TA wheels to put on the Camaro.

I just love how your doing it in a apartment complex LOL!!! O would be scared to do that. Car is looking good man!

got another small update. It's not running yet but the fuel pump is in. It was about $30 in fittings and $20 for the hose to hook up electric fuel pump.
Living in the apartment complex means that whatever car i am working on becomes a portable storage unit.


and the fuel pump is installed. The fuel pump is just going to be activated by a switch, i am not going to be using the factory relay for it. The hose is using the slip on fitting and is rated up to 250psi with one connector that i had to use at about 150psi.


also took the stock wiring harness completely out. Took me a little while to figure out how to unhook it from the drivers side. The engine bay is already looking better. I am still debating if i should try to run the computer inside the car or leave it in the engine bay.




also not sure about some of the connectors. Does anybody know where they go to?
blue, white and yellowish in this picture:

I am guessing that the grey connector is for the ac but am not sure.

most pumps will overheat if they're not installed with the motor on top. Call the manufacturer to find out if this is the case for yours.

I thought the motor is on top the way it's positioned...
Am i missing something?

my C5 wheels fit fine. When you jack the car up, the wheels hit the bump stops though, this is why some people install 1/4" spacers to allow the wheel/tire to clear. i might just leave mine how they are.

Does anybody know if i need to hook up the evap system? I was thinking of just leaving it out because i wanted to put a battery where the evap canister currently is.

it is uright, he just took the pic at a funny angle.

In other words, if you get into a wreck and a fuel line ruptures, it will continue spraying pressurized gasoline until...

well, i will need to figure out how to make it shut off when the motor turns off then.

Hook it up like it is in the 4th gens and let the PCM control it. The PCM will send a ground signal to a fuel pump relay and turn it on. Handles the priming function and should shut it down if something bad happens.

Double-check me, but it's my recollection that the PCM sends 12VDC to pull the fuel pump relay.

PCM switches ground for the fan relays, but I'm nearly certain that the FP relay is grounded fulltime and the PCM just switches the 12VDC pull.

Hmm....You might be right on that. I dont have any wiring diagrams with me, and after doing a quick google search, didnt find what I needed. I seem to remember one of the PCM controls sending 12v vs. grounding. Im not positive if it was the fuel enable circuit or not. A wiring diagram would answer this question nicely.

Been awhile

J.

That is correct!

I'll second that.

i will look into setting up a relay to control the fuel pump, can i just use the stock relay that was used with the original pump? It's is getting close and i am trying to get it running by next weekend. still trying to figure out some wires but at least i'm getting close. My camaro runs and drives now but lost the key so i am back focused on the TA, plus i wanted to take it to a third gen meet.

i got all the wires on the engine harness figured out and now trying to connect them to correct wires on the body harness. Few questions i had is where on the body harness do i need to run power from the battery to and which wire should i hook up the "+12 in run position" wire?

Tough to answer 100% without a wiring diagram for your chassis, but you can get a good starting point by mapping out the TPI harness you removed.

Look at C100, map out the locations of all orange, pink, and red wires.

I'm testing my memory here, hopefully somebody will correct if needed, but...

RED = battery voltage full-time
PINK = battery voltage in run position
ORANGE = battery voltage during cranking (?)