LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Ok guys i am a student a local career center! I am in auto collision not in auto tech with the engines but anyways i got to talking to some of them and they said they would rebuild my LT1 i bought. It is a 96 imapala ss motor. They said i would need to buy all the parts and they will do everything for free or right next to it!
SO
What is a good rebuild kit with everything where can i find one for the best price?
With my money i will be saving should i get a bigger TB and injectors?
I want to go with a cam bigger than the HOT cam and willing to get the computer tuned!
Also getting around a 3000 stall?
BUT
I dont want to get different heads or nothing at this time.
SO if you guys would build my engine!
Would like to pull out 330rwhp?
PLEASE HELP ME GET MY LT1 TOGETHER!!!!
thanks
kevin
A STOCK TB is good to 400hp. You want know what size injectors you will need if any till you pick a cam. If you get any cam you will have to get the ecm retuned.
If you are getting a 3000k stall and stock unported heads and want around 330rwhp I would suggest the cc503. Its widely known for the biggest cam you want to run on stock ported heads with out leaving some on the tabel . IIRC I have seen a few on other boards 4 sale.
Last edited by chevyowner02; 03-18-2009 at 08:34 PM.
If they can do it, have the rocker studs pulled out of the heads and have the bosses machined and tapped for screw-in studs like the aluminum LT1 heads had.
Pressed-in studs are fine for a stock cam and springs, but a cam like the 503 (or basically anything bigger than a stock LT4 cam) will need springs with too much pressure, and will tug out pressed-in studs.
If the auto tech shop can't/won't do it, if your school is like mine (all kinds of trades, not just auto-related), the machine shop class probably will do it for you. They would likely be doing all the needed machining to the block and heads anyway, just add this to the list as well.
Make sure your heads can actually handle that kind of lift too... any cam that the LT1 engines really like have ALOT of valve lift, even the stock LT1/LT4 cams ranged from .450 to .490, so you should make sure.
I'm doing a stock rebuild of my lt1, and I'm going with an AI cam kit. It's designed around the stock heads and is supposed to make great power while being very streetable. You may want to look into them for cam options. They claim 10 to 15 more horsepower over the cc503 with no loss of driveability.
If they can do it, have the rocker studs pulled out of the heads and have the bosses machined and tapped for screw-in studs like the aluminum LT1 heads had.
Pressed-in studs are fine for a stock cam and springs...
I've gotta agree on this one - one of our local club members pulled a rocker stud last year, & I'm pretty sure that she's using a stock cam (on a 305 no less!).
If there's any way at all to make it happen, this mod is a 'must-do'.
Yes i would like to get bigger springs and go with the 1.6 rockers. Then the AI cam what is that like? I dont care about the driveability i just want a LT1 that will rumble (real tired of the 305). I Was lucky enough to drive a 96 ZR1 the other day not real fast but 95 mph and I WANT MORE POWER!
kevin
Any cam you get you will need better springs AI's cam has a better powerband range (little lower) and few more hp. Would be a better choice but IIRC cam alone is $350. Like said going to be a little better but I know where you can get cc503 1.6 rr (comp) and pr for around $375.
__________________ 305 tbi 1.6 roller rockers, ultimate tbi with tbi and injector spacers, underdrive pullies, full exhaust, open element, brian harris chip, and 3.42s
You'll want to pick up an LT4 knock module (module, NOT sensor) as well, if its an OBD2 setup you'll be using. I don't think its necessary with OBD1? You should verify this. Its alot less sensitive than a normal LT1 knock module, so it works better with 'noisy' mechanical components like roller rockers.
You really should find out what the lift limit is on the heads first... see if the valve guides need machined down before you get your cam. I know the aluminum LT1s can handle something like .560 or .580, but I don't know about the iron LT1s. They always came with a pretty weak cam, so they may not handle much.
Just wondering what sets the lift in the heads? Like what makes it only allow it to be so big? Bc i really just want to throw the cc306 in and i dont know how much lift is on it but know its a good cam.
kevin
Just wondering what sets the lift in the heads? Like what makes it only allow it to be so big? Bc i really just want to throw the cc306 in and i dont know how much lift is on it but know its a good cam.
kevin
Its the point where the valve spring retainer makes contact with the valve guide boss/seal. If the valve guide boss is cut down, the valve can travel down more before contact is made, giving you room for more valve lift.
cc306 is a good cam if you have all the supporting mods. You are going to have spin it to the moon it likes high rpm's.
Your best bet contact eather Lloyd or AI tell them what you are wanting to do they will get you a cam. Rember BIGGER is not always better.
Well i am getting a 3000 stall so i guess i want a bad *** cam from 3000-6xxxx rpms. Just one that picks up and gose! Im tired of getting beat by dumb cars and want to blow alot of these cars away. Mabey even get to 12.7-12.9 range would be sweet for now.
kevin
Ok forget the other post above i kinda just want to get it in! I found a rebuild kit on summit that is all fordge alluminum with 10:5 compression. And i figured if i can just get a cam that will let me throw down 300rwhp that will be fine.
So.....
Cam? makes me 300rwhp atleast
headers/flowmaster
3:73 posi
3000 stall
700r4 w/ high performance shift kit and corvette servo
That should be a low 13 sec 1/4 mile i would think???
Do you guys think that will be most of them civics and also mabey keep up with a stock LS1 or the new GT mustangs?
thanks
kevin
I'm sure no expert but I believe the big body LT1 had a tick more compression with the iron heads and a different cam than the Fbody engine. Made for more torque to move the cop cars. I'd think the base engine with the Hot Cam, minor head work, up a size or two injectors, and decent exhaust would be close to 330 HP without a lot of trouble.
As said above you can do 300rwhp with the hot cam.Or if you had Alum heads and a f-body stock cam. Why would he need injectors if his is not maxed out? I dont think you are going to gain any hp from them.
I'm sure no expert but I believe the big body LT1 had a tick more compression with the iron heads and a different cam than the Fbody engine. Made for more torque to move the cop cars. I'd think the base engine with the Hot Cam, minor head work, up a size or two injectors, and decent exhaust would be close to 330 HP without a lot of trouble.
The B-body had a smaller cam (195*/198* duration or so, VS 206*/210* or so for the F-body) and the F-car with aluminum heads had 10.4:1 compression. The iron head LT1 had 9.5:1 compression.
I found some heads from a 94 or 96 camaro for a good price would it be worth buying? Then as far as the car i just want to buy a good one but also for the least amount of money. I just want to do a good rebuild, cam, 3000 stall, with a full exhaust basically. Mabey swap heads if it will be worth it (not meaning new heads just cheap ones from another LT1 camaro or something).
thanks
kevin
As said above you can do 300rwhp with the hot cam.Or if you had Alum heads and a f-body stock cam. Why would he need injectors if his is not maxed out? I dont think you are going to gain any hp from them.
Thanks for showing me that! I guess i will go with the hot cam or something similar. Anyone know if their cheap? Also already have a cold air intake.
thanks alot
kevin
I found some heads from a 94 or 96 camaro for a good price would it be worth buying? Then as far as the car i just want to buy a good one but also for the least amount of money. I just want to do a good rebuild, cam, 3000 stall, with a full exhaust basically. Mabey swap heads if it will be worth it (not meaning new heads just cheap ones from another LT1 camaro or something).
thanks
kevin
Its probably not a bad idea to use the aluminum heads, as they already have the higher compression chambers and screw-in studs, but you probably won't gain any significant amount of power over the iron heads with them, unless you have them ported first. The aluminum heads are good, and will support a bigger cam better, mechanically, as they do have the screw-in studs and will handle more valve lift, but they won't make more power otherwise.
Well if i find a good used pair for 100-200 bucks sounds like it would be good in the long run. Now my heads right now are 1.94/1.5 right? Do the corvettes or anything have the 2.02/1.6?
thanks
kevin
Also I suggested a size or two larger injectors due to the added power output. The stock 22 lb (?) injectors would be a bit small, stock Corvettes used 24 lb I believe so with your mods I'd think at least the 24 lb would be a start.
On an LT1 head, the valves are actually closer to each other by a little bit compared to a Gen 1 small block, mostly because the aluminum heads have such tiny chambers (aluminum heads were developed first) so the largest valves an LTx engine came with from the factory was 2.00/1.55 and that was in the LT4 engine. All LT1 engines, aluminum or iron heads, had 1.94/1.50 valves - Corvette included.
If you are going to change the valve size, change to an LT4 set (2.00/1.55) - though your not likely to really gain much if anything.
Also, if you change to a setup that uses guideplates for the pushrods instead of self aligning rockers like it has now, the LT1 guideplates look just like SBC ones to the untrained eye, but for an LT1 you'll need a specific set just for the LT1 because of the closer valve spacing. Or you could use an adjustable set for a SBC. I'd recommend just staying with the factory self-sligning setup though. It works just fine, and is less hassle.
Aluminum head LT1s had 24lb injectors. LT4 had 26lb IIRC. I don't know what the iron head engines used.
Some good info here, it was a bit hard to figure out what you needed looking at the post.. I am over 400rwhp with the stock crank, with a completely stock bottom end I was running over 370rwhp.. with your goals I would see if you could get by with just re-ringing the motor, and changing the bearings.
with bolt-ons and a six speed my car was at 288rwhp and would run 13.4 @104 in full weight street trim, that was with a 2.2 60ft time.
you will be pretty close to high 12's with a good stall and some traction without a cam.. so essentially you can be at your ballpark with almost no internal work.
Without knowing your budget I would rebuild the shortblock with as many stock pieces as possible.
Go with the cheapest LE1 head and cam setup www.elliottsportworks.com
get a mail order tune.. If labor on your engine is free that would keep your total parts cost to under 2000.00 the engine would be in the 340-350rwhp range.
Of course harness and ecm etc. are more money..
If you want PM me your budget amount and I can make up a list of possible mods that would meet the dollars available.
__________________ 82 T/A LT1 everything old is new again.
355, studded mains, stock crank, 6in scat rods, Mahle pistons, OBD1 converted, delteq, LE Heads, pac1518s, pro-magnums, LE2 cam, stock lifters, LE intake, 52mm throttle body, Programmed by CAM, hedman lts, mufflex exhaust, LS1 (ebmiller) brakes, 02 M/C, eibach sportline front and pro rear springs, jegs subframes and torque arm, hotchis lcas, spohn panhard, bmr upper panhard, TDS swaybars/wonderbar, inland empire driveshaft, pst bushings, bilsteins...
Parts can under 2k? If you can tell me how to do that please tell! I was hoping to get everything done for around 3k or so. But i am in high school and lifting for football 3 days a week and have track 4 days a week. So i only work 2 or 3 days a week. I ran my car in the 1/4 just by a estimate and i was about to throw up it was like 17.1 at 90mph? I think i can do better but still i WANT TO PUT THAT ENGINE IN AS SOON AS POSSIBLE with decent power. SO CHEAPER THE BETTER! 280rwhp will be cool to just want to get a car that will move!
thanks
kevin
Found a cam a guy would sell me but it dosent rev that high and i dont think it will make as much hp as the hot cam or crane227.What do you guys think?
Have a Crane Power Max Lift 454/440 Duration270/276 w less than 10K on it. Out of 305 LB9. Jegs pat#270-114132. Designed for car w/ 3.73's,
1600-5400rpm range. W/ 1.6 would put lift around 494/480....$100 shipped
Found a cam a guy would sell me but it dosent rev that high and i dont think it will make as much hp as the hot cam or crane227.What do you guys think?
Have a Crane Power Max Lift 454/440 Duration270/276 w less than 10K on it. Out of 305 LB9. Jegs pat#270-114132. Designed for car w/ 3.73's,
1600-5400rpm range. W/ 1.6 would put lift around 494/480....$100 shipped
thanks
kevin
Unless it has the dowl pin for the opti it wont work.
Last edited by chevyowner02; 03-29-2009 at 05:53 PM.
Ok thanks for telling me! I found these heads that i think i am going to get what do you guys think?
I have Alumunum Heads for LT1 engine casting # 10128374 They are 53cc heads with angel plugs these head are ready to boost your HP Also set of new stainless valves PB&I 2003 exsaust 1.6 and 2105 int 2.02
The heads I have to have $250 the valves $75.00
The heads are 53 cc heads 175/61 cc ports these are factory specks but the heads look to have been ported so im not sure how that has changed these numbers I can post pics but will have to take pics again thanks
Unless it has the dowl pin for the opti it wont work.
The dowel is the same one the SBC uses to align the timing gear, its just longer. He could just pull the dowel pin out of whatever cam is in his LT1 and put it in the cam he replaces it with. It will just tap in with a hammer. Then it works just fine.
That said, don't go with a cam under 215* duration @ .050... less than that, you might as well just use the stock F-car/Corvette LT1 cam. Go with the LT4 hotcam at the minimum.
about to buy this cam? what you think he said it was between the 305cc and the 306cc. Then all this to.
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers(NSA) with Poly Locking nuts
7/16" screw in studs
Guide plates
hardened pushrods
have a nice cam for the LT1 for sale 230/236 HR113. Lift is 0.544/0.554 with 1.6 rockers. Its inbetween the CC305 and the CC306.
but anyways i got to talking to some of them and they said they would rebuild my LT1 i bought. It is a 96 imapala ss motor. They said i would need to buy all the parts and they will do everything for free or right next to it! 
305 tbi 1.6 roller rockers, ultimate tbi with tbi and injector spacers, underdrive pullies, full exhaust, open element, brian harris chip, and 3.42s
