Finally getting around to working on this aspect. Far from finished, but at least on the path. With the AC housing out of the way, you can see from the housing outline on the firewall that there is only one place to put the hole. It just happens to be located (at least in my case) in a spot in the pad/insulation inside that has a cut-out for access to the housing mount bolts. I used the hole punch to make the initial hole (should have taken a picture of that - sorry), then opened it up with the die grinder/carbide bit. "Finished" hole (still need to put anti-chafe on it): As the PCM connector passes through: Will need to lengthen about 12 of those 20-gauge wires that go to the cam sensor (or is it crank sensor?) and AC switch. A couple of the other harnesses that stay in the engine compartment in a 4th gen will also go to the passenger compartment since they run things in there (clutch switch, tach signal {that white wire}, etc.). I'll seal it up with silicone when it's all in place.

That's the same place I put mine through. I didn't have to lengthen a single stock ls1 PCM wire though
I also shoved all 4 ls1 connectors through that hole, c100, c101, c102, c105, and didn't add any length.

Nice! thanks for the pics. Ghettocruiser did the same except i believe his hole went through quiet a few inches farther over to the right.

This way should hide the harness quite nicely!

Thanks to V8Rumble for coming by today and soldering in all those stretched wires!

Found some anti-chafe material at NAPA. Told them what I was doing, asked if they had anything that might work - they looked at each other and said, "Door edge guard." If you look carefully, you can see the bead of adhesive in the bottom of the "U"-cross-section.




Mine is an original carb non-electric-fuel-pump-&-radiator-fan car. I'm using a swap fuse/relay box. I could have mounted it in the passenger compartment, and routed wires back into the engine compartment. I chose to mount it in the engine compartment and have the control wires from those connectors as required run to the box, staying in the engine compartment. The only wire that goes outside of the engine compartment for the fuse/relay box is the fuel pump power feed.

I opened the hole up a little bit more to account for the anti-chafe. 1st shot of both PCM connectors going through. There will be more by the time it's done. After lengthening the required wires, the bundle coming off the engine was wrapped in heat reflecting tape.



He has AC-delete, if memory serves. The AC housing covers everything to the right.

You be the judge. . .



Still some more to do - command & power wires to the fuse/relay box, fan power wires, finish splicing in the '82 & LS1 wires (ignition, starter), repair a heater power wire inadvertently cut, etc. But, big-time progress today.

Hey, I was glad to be able to lend a hand. I'm a bit jealous of how much farther along five7 is than I am, but I'm thinking that we'll both be running this summer.

One thing that he didn't mention - In the bottom picture you can just see a tiny bit of metallic-silver-looking stuff between the A/C box & the engine. That's the heat-reflective tape that five7 bought to (hopefully) prevent any temperature-related electrical gremlins... (You can also see it wrapped around the bundle of wires at the bottom of the oil dipstick, with the purple starter wire coming out.) Looks like really good stuff.

Can't wait to hear that puppy run! (BTW five7, I'm sending you a PM with the links we talked about earlier...)

Good job man! Your doing it right the first time with the A/C box. I wish i would of put the A/C box in my car. You live and learn. Keep it going dude

Joey

I was all back & forth about AC. Didn't want the hassles (especially the crossmember and compressor), didn't want to cobble up a PCM mount in the passenger compartment (AC-delete makes PCM mounting in the engine compartment sooooo much easier), but did want the creature comfort (was one of the goals going into this project - performance and creature comforts).

It has delayed getting it running, but since it'll be primarily a summer car, the AC will be nice to have.

Well, I did mention it, but it was a long day, so you're forgiven. . .

I'll get a picture of the final harness look after I get the rest of the wires routed and before I put the AC housing back in.

Didn't get as much done today as I hoped. Ran some wires to/from the fuse/relay box including switched power, fan power and signal wires, fuel pump request. Discovered the pink wire we doubled back in the big bundle should have gone to the fuse box, so had to unwrap it. Now it looks like the AC request should go in that bundle as well, so I'll probably be unwrapping it again.

Too many distractions today (wife & daughter needed travel help, went to the parts store to get more wire and some other odds & ends, recharged Berlinetta #1 AC, etc.). And, need to do some stuff to get ready for work tomorrow. We'll see how much I can get done after work tomorrow.

I do have A/C. I couldnt run mine over that far because of my custom HVAC box. It sits tighter on the chassis rail than the stock box does, and my harness wasnt going to fit under it.

Pretty much any place you put it down there will hide it nicely. You cant see mine unless I point at it and you shove your head in there to look. Even if I eventually do an A/C delete...which Im toying with...it will still hide.

You guys that didnt have to lengthen wires are lucky. I didnt have to extend any of the major PCM wires in order to put the PCM up in the stock location. But I had to extend the "C" plugs. The only reason I had to extend those is because Im running the 4th gen fuse blocks, and I wanted everything to plug in. I also wanted the "C" plugs to mount on the wheel well like they did in the 4th gen.

Good work on the hole and wiring routing! It really does clean things up getting that PCM inside the car. Just heat wrap the crap out of EVERYTHING down there. Ive got a ton of sleeving and fiberglass heat tape on everything. Just gets hot in that general area.

J.

Okay, I knew there was a reason I couldn't put it where you did.

In order to go closer to the center of the vehicle, I'd have to go right behind the engine. That didn't make sense, and things get tighter inside the car over there, too.

I think I'm very close to the point of having it all figured out. I still haven't started running the tach & speedo signal lines (aftermarket gauges), and ALDL. I'll be using the factory (3rd gen) engine temp gauge wire, so I'll have to figure out which wire that is from the factory cluster connector (as well as dash lights, turn signal lights, fuel level, etc.).

I put the swap fuse/relay box in the driver side battery tray. The existing vapor canister mount nuts fit perfectly for the box. The wires to the PCM harness are routed above and in front of the AC condenser. There were existing holes on each side that a grommet fit in nicely as a pass-through, and the existing headlight harness bundle up there (forget the proper name for that convoluted split plastic stuff) will hold the new wires.

Need to retract (modify) that statement. The AC request is part of C230, which will be in the passenger compartment. So, that one wire will also come back into the engine compartment. I could have located the wire inside the car and kept it in there, but that would require more dash disassembly, and I already know where the wire is in the engine compartment.

how hard is it to remove that heat/ac box from the car with the motor in the car?

The top half comes off by removing fasteners located in the engine compartment. My AC hoses weren't hooked up, so it was easy enough to remove the evaporator after the top was off. The lower half has fasteners both inside the car and inside the engine compartment.

I also have the hood off, and I'd think it would be difficult to maneuver it out with the hood there. I did have to lift the hood hinge out of the way (I disconnected the hood lift struts so the hinges aren't sticking up in the way all the time) to get the housing out - it is tight.

Managed to get all of the PCM wires in the engine compartment finished. I tried to de-mass the rat's nest where the harnesses from the two PCM connectors meet and the fuse/relay box, AC switch, and crank sensor harnesses break out - with limited success.



When the housing is put in, the biggest part of the harness sits right where the least space exists - wouldn't ya know.

I still need to hook up the ground wire, temp sending wire, and AC request wire. After those are done I will remount the housing and do what I can to get as much of the harness as possible in the passenger compartment so PCM mounting options are maximized.

The fuse/relay box is nearly finished. Need to hook up the battery power and radiator fan grounds, and do the finish wrapping and securing. The wires from the PCM to the fuse/relay box went nicely in the factory headlight harness.

I'm looking to re-route my harness as well so I've been following this thread pretty closely. Have you gotten any farther?

No, that was it. I needed to do some stuff on the '57 to get it ready for the weekend, spent Friday and Saturday at the track, drove out to Nebraska Sunday and back Monday to pick up some 454's my brother found, dropped them off at a fellow racer's shop last night, and just finished picking up and getting the LQ4/4L80E for the next phase of the 57's life into the storage unit (no small task). Tomorrow I need to do some other things on the '57 to get it ready for this weekend at the track, so it will probably be next week before I get back to this.

I really want to get it going, because I missed another "stick shift" class at the track this past weekend. The next one is June 13th - not sure if I'll make that, either, because I'll be out of town the 2nd week of June.