Hey Everyone, Im looking into fabricating a set of 1 7/8" Headers for LSx swap thirdgens. Ive contacted a shop near me, who does CNC Mandrel bending, they say if i bring them the 8 primary's, all welded, but not welded to the collector, they can copy the pipes shape, and reproduce the bends through CNC. Ideally, they would be good for: 6.0L + Swaps Supercharged systems Highly modded 5.7's I would make them availiable in either T304 stainless, or mild steel (coated or uncoated) Im just trying to see if there would be interest in these, as it would cost me a bit of money to have them turn the tubes into a CNC readable program. Interest would decide when id do the project, ive got contacts where i can get the material, & flanges/collectors. I would be fabricating them peice by peice to determine best routeing, would be set for spohn mounts, and a stock k-member. Opinions, comments, questions. Lets hear it.

probably be cheaper to just build one set and call it done. not worth the hassle

I honestly don't mean to "whiz in your Wheaties", but this is a subject that's getting a little bit exasperating for me. If you actually run the numbers on what REAL engines need, I really think you'll be surprised (if not shocked). For example:

The numbers below are generated from the engine that I'm installing into my car - the basic factors are

• V-8 engine;
• 10.5:1 CR;
• bore/stroke - 4.065" x 3.622";
• 2.2" exhaust port length in cylinder head
• Usage - aggressive street, with strip usage

If the target horsepower is 450, then the optimal pipe length is between 32" & 33", and the optimal diameter for the primary tubes is 1.6". Seriously.

If the target horsepower is 550, then the optimal pipe length is 1/10 of an inch longer, and the optimal diameter for the primary tubes is 1.68".

These are the actual numbers generated using real-world data. As you can see, a healthy percentage of the cars on the road (including built cars) won't even need a 1-3/4" primary!

Unless you've got like 700 hp, all that a bigger primary does is lose torque, weigh a bit more, & make plug access more difficult. I know that lots of people have convinced themselves that they "need" big honkin' primaries, but oddly enough, they never specify how they came to that conclusion.

Like I said man, I hope I'm not being an @ss by posting this, but people seriously need to know why they're doing something - rather than "flying by the seat of their pants", and I'm honestly hoping that this provokes some thought on the subject...

I would be interested in some 1 3/4" Mild Steel swap headers.

ALL the motors that we've done a before and after dyno session with 1 3/4" headers to 1 7/8" headers have picked up on ls1 engines that are built. Guess all those big cube sbc guys running 2" primaries are nuts as well? The calculators are just that, best guesses.

We picked up over 70rwhp, on a blown 402ci C5, by dumping the 1 3/4" primary, and going to 1 7/8".

Theirs no doubt gains are to be made with 1 7/8" primary's, especially when your running a larger cube setup, or if you want to run a Roots, or centrifugal supercharger (This is my plan, tis why im worrying about bigger headers)

Texas-Speed threw a set on a stock LS1 and GAINED hp!

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...o-results.html

As for producing them, im going to work out a total cost to produce the first header, then what my costs will be to produce the next sets. My dad and i are opening a performance retail store in town, so i have the space to take on a project like this, and a means to sell them. I just need to find that i will be able to move say, 5+ sets of them.

Im not trying to get rich on them, even if i just sold enough sets to break even, it would be a badass learning experience, and as more and more people swap LSx's, ill always have the data to have the tubes made up for me.

These motors like to breath, and breath alot the more air you can put in and exit out the more hp they make.

it really depends on where the restriction is. If you have a set of crappy flowing heads your headers arent going to do anything, but when your headers are a restriction you'll gain power going bigger. You will lose torque going to a bigger primary though you'll net an increase in overall horsepower. You need exhaust scavenging to help suck air into the cylinder.

none of the motor combos or dyno graphs showed a loss of torque. We're not comparing 23 degree heads which are airflow limited here, even stock ported ls1 heads are capable of 300+cfm.

Shel, if you have a reasonable price I might be interested sometime. My stock headers dont make me too happy.

depending on the price i would be interested as well, any plans to offer smaller primaries design for stock motors?

If you could beat the $800 stainless works price i think a lot of people would be interested.

so ur are building one for spohn motor mounts and what transmission 4l60E or manual ?

Are u going to get them tuned or just looks like the SSW ones ?

I would be intrested in a 13/4" primary

I would be interested in a set. But the price has to be right, and they have to be made well. When I made mine, I made sure they didn't drop below the oil pan, they hugged the block, and....for my needs, the driver side primaries need to basically go straight back before they go down. I'm running a rack and pinion, and I have steering shaft clearance issues. And if they have a merge collector that would be awesome too.

I would be very interested also. But can not commit as I don't know when I would have the cash available.

Ill keep you guys posted.

I want to shape them similar to the Stainless Works headers, as im not a fan of running them all around the suspension.

1 3/4" primary shouldnt be hard to create, figure just have them bent in a different tube diameter, in the same shape.

im down for a set for sure!
must be stainless or i wouldnt bother. (well maybe if the price was cheap for steel)
they need to be built as a mix between the hooker 2210 for a small block, and the hawks lsx swap header.
the collectors are too far back for auto cars on the stainless works headers.
introduce a spohn or umi arm and you have all kind of exhaust issues at the collector, not to mention ground clearance.
if you could somehow build a set that was hawks top and the 2210 bottom i think they would be a hit.
ground clearance at the collector is awesome, but when your y pipe hangs down, its a mute point.
i think its a great idea, dont know how well it will go over.
nothing comes of it, im going to give it my own shot over the winter.

I was wondering if you would be willing to sell a set of bent pipes or a kit that I can weld myself to try and keep the cost down and the shipping. And the customes fees because your in canada. Thanks and have you made any progress.

Hey,

Ive placed a couple phone calls to get pricing on bends. I could certainly sell a weld-it-yourself kit, just send the box of tubes w/ flanges/collectors.

Im hoping to have the resources i need soon (lift) to build them. My camaro will soon be taken out of comission for a full restoration, as im tired of funk in around with it, and just want sh!t done right on it. So ive gotta try to get something set before the car is a shell on a rotisserie.

Sheldon

Just seeing if you have made any progress with this or not.