LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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OK, I'd written all of this up once, only to have it disappear - let's hope that it works this time...
I've been putting off working on my pedals (originally from a T5 thirdgen car), since I had a pretty good idea that it was going to be a PITA - looks like I was right. I've been looking at ghettocruiser's post where he outlines how he made the fourthgen "peg" work with the thirdgen pedals, & I figured that I could at least TRY to make the thirdgen peg work (mainly because I don't have a set of 4thgen pedals, & I'm not really wanting to spend the money for 'em when all I need is the dumb little peg).
So, I got everything together, & started grinding. And grinding. I finally got it to where I'd expected to see something that would be roughly like this:
Photo credit - ghettocruiser
but instead my pedal looks like just onesolidpiece of metal - no indication that the peg could be separate from the clutch pedal at all. I've even smacked the back side of the peg with a punch & my 4-lb mini-sledge, but all that that does is to leave a mark where the punch is at.
So - am I doing something wrong, missing a step, or....???
(On the PLUS side though, I've taken the WHOLE interior out, & not found a single mouse - or any kind of critter at all - so I guess I'm ahead on that score. Depending on how that's scored, I guess...)
Thanks guys.
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1989 Trans Am GTA Currently swapping in an L92(VVT-equipped all-aluminum 6.2L) & T56 combo...
did you try this?? its a little bit of of info since I am at the exact same spot and i have the 4th gen but i dont know which is better......
Hey, thanks for the pointer - but it doesn't appear to be applicable to my situation. I'm trying to make the thirdgen peg work, rather than adapting the fourth-gen stuff. Basically, I'm hoping that I can remove the peg from the thirdgen pedals & relocate it to work with the LS-type clutch m/c.
Naturally, I'm probably the first one to try this as well...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocket
Hack saw it off as flush as possible and weld it on the 3rd gen pedal
Well, again, all I have is the set of thirdgen pedals. I'm starting to think that it might not be a bad idea to post a 'wanted' ad in the LS1Tech classified boards...
Thanks for the feedback guys, it's honestly appreciated.
I was talking to Justin and didn't realize at first that you literally have to hack up the 4th gen pedal to do that mod. I don't really want to spend money on another pedal just to hack it up so I'll probably try doing something like what you have goin' on. I'll post up if I find a solution. Do you have any idea how far it needs to be relocated?
__________________ 2nd Place Modified Camaro - ThirdGen Fest '11 LSX / T56 combo, 420rwhp 407 ft./lbs. custom Ford 8.8" with 9" axle tubes, 4.10's and Ford Racing Cobra diff, Moser axles, LS1 brake swap front and rear, Hawks 1 3/4" longtubes, forged internals, TSP MS4, LS6 intake, Spohn LCA's/torque arm/cross member/k member/subframe connectors, Alston subframe connectors, Hotchkis springs, poly motor/trans mounts & sway bar bushings/end links, Memphis Audio / Pioneer audio system, etc etc et
Whats up guys. Nick is correct... You are basically making a 4th gen clutch pedal useless by doing the peg swap. But you dont really have to hack it up.
V8Rumble...that picture of mine that you posted was after I got the peg to start moving. You wont see that until you grind down through that weld enough to move the peg. You might have to go down alittle below the "surface" of the pedal, due to weld penetration. Sometimes, from the heat of grinding, you can start to see a blue outline of the hole. I used my 4.5" angle grinder, with a cutoff wheel...I use that for pretty much all of my grinding/cutting haha.
Anyway...once you grind down a bit, try this, if you havent. Get a socket, just slightly larger than the widest part of the peg. Sit the sock on a vise or other solid object, and insert the peg down into the socket. Then give it a good wack from behind with a punch and a hammer. It makes a huge difference vs. just hitting it without support close to the peg.
I tried to come up with a rod end solution that would allow me to use the thirdgen peg. There just isnt a rod end out there that will work. You can get ends that have a different sized threaded shank than the rod end opening itself, but they are hard to find, and you probably wont find the combo you want. Im convinced there is a way to make something work after you knock out the thirdgen peg...without using the 4th gen peg. I just havent thought of how yet.
I even gave thought to having a dozen or so 4th gen pegs machined off of a cad drawing....but I would need another 4th gen peg to mic out and get the dimensions. But the 4th gen pegs really are the easiest/quickest way to hook it all up in my opinion. Even though it means ruining a pedal.
Has anyone checked how much the bare clutch pedal is from GM?? Pretty sure you can get individual pedals without the bushings and all that. Might not be too pricey.
You could use a bolt. The only issue with that is, what do you use to retain the rod end? I dont remember there being enough room for a nut.
You could use a bolt with the correct smooth shank diameter. Grind the head down so its only about 1/8" thick, to act as the little spacer that the pedal pegs have. Weld the pee out of it. Then, if you have a drill press, you could drill a hole through the shank of the bolt, and run a pin through it. Something thats easy to get off...but wont fall off would work well. Might even want to back that with a washer.
If you can fit a bolt in there...then that would be ok probably. But you dont want the rod end resting right against the pedal...you need it spaced away. Just be aware of that, and handle it with either washers or grinding the bolt head and welding it on the rod end side.
The S10 pedal idea might be a good one!! I dont know what they use...but Im willing to bet it'd be right or close.
J.
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ARE shortblock, Ross custom boost pistons, arp rod bolts, ARE ported oil pump,
MTI 2e 5.3L ported heads milled .030 with double springs,
228/224 113+1 Comp XE-R, Cloyes adjustable timing chain, LS6 valley cover,
fast 90mm intake, NW 90mm throttle body, SVO 30lb injectors, 85mm MAF,
ASP underdrive pulley, 160* t-stat, stainless LT headers 1.75" primaries