LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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Tubular parts are much stronger than stamped steel. And like ghettocruiser posted in my "$3000 can I do it" thread, you most likely won't want a stock stamped steel torque arm not only because they are weaker but also because they mount to the back of the trans and could potentially harm the trans in high power applications. The Spohn pieces are cross member mounted, or you could get a body mounted torque arm.
For the sake of completeness in the info presented, I'm going to add a little bit.
Everything that Nick said in the post just above this one is true - but tubular parts are noticeably heavier as well, so if that's a consideration, you'll want to be aware of that. In my opinion, there's no reason to get an aftermarket torque arm if you're not planning on doing a fair bit of racing - the benefit just isn't there, you'd be better off getting new stereo equipment, or better tires ("better tires" are almost ALWAYS a good investment IMO!).
But, if you are planning on doing some racing (which can't be more than what, 90% of us?) then it's a really good idea to move the front mount off of the transmission - and I've been told that being able to adjust your pinion angle is seriously helpful when trying to launch.
If you're "on the fence" about whether you're going to race or not, you can get a good bit of the benefit of aftermarket tubular parts by bracing (or boxing) your stock torque arm and/or LCAs. All you need is a welder & some appropriate metal. If you decide that you enjoy racing after all, then you can step up to the higher-dollar adjustable parts. (Speaking only for myself, I'd be a little bit cautious about building a DIY'er body mount for the torque arm though.)
I don't plan on racing it. I plan on ragging on it from time to time, but thats a given lol. Only time I will take her to the strip is to get my times .
I'll twist the ls1 driveshaft in half before I break my torque arm.
They don't make a crossmemeber that is both a double hump to clear the exhaust and has an aftermarket mount so if that's important to you then welding will be required.
Also - adjusting pinion angle on lowered cars requires an adjustable torque arm. If you're dropping the car when you do the ls3 swap, go ahead and invest in a good adj. torque arm.
One thing I found out (that shouldn't affect many) - a differential mounted vss reluctor wheel does not clear with the UMI torque arm (and potentially others). You'd only use this part if you're trying to do an LSx swap and use an older transmission and keep the lsx electronics.
Agreed. If you drop the car in ride height then an adjustable tqa is pretty much mandatory if you want it to perform. There are quite a few fast cars running the stock torque arm though especially autos but IMO as soon as your in the mid 12 range or 1.75 60' range then its time to swap for sure there are some real gains to be had. Considering the nature of your swap that puts you easily past that performance level so its a no brainer to me.
I'm running a Spohn adjustable with my own crossmember mount. With an auto its not so dire to relocate the mount off the trans tail shaft but with a manual and sticky tires it sure is. Regardless a poly trans mount is a must have. Get one
Ya I had totally forgotten about the pinion angle on my car since it is lowered with the Hotchkis springs. Just another reason I am getting the spohn adj. torque arm.
I don't plan on lowering the car any. Although I do hope/plan to be running in the 12's after everything is finished
For an auto in a 12 second car its not entirely necessary for an aftermarket arm especially if its stock ride height. My nephews car runs 12.75 with a stealh rammed TPI vortec motor and because hes young and budget limited he runs the stock torque arm. His 60's are in the high 1.7 area.
As an example; If it was me and my goals were 12.5 or slower and I was on a budget and had to choose between a new set or ET streets or a torque arm? The ET streets will put more smiles on your face because they will do much more for your traction than an aftermarket tqa and crappy tires will.
As with any build its hard not to get carried away and replace everything on the whole car. I've pretty much done that now aside from the body theres nothing on my car thats original equipment but I did it over years in stages. Engine swap one year, body and paint the next, t56 swap following year, Brake swap one year, diff build the next, LS1 swap after etc etc. This was the best way for me to keep my car on the road as much as possible and buy parts on a low budget as I had plenty of time to research, plan and buy to get best bang for the buck so to speak. What I couldnt find at prices I found agreeable I built myself.
Its easy to get carried away. I think most of it is due to the fact that if I am doing something, I want to doing it right the first time and only time. But that takes time and money.
The 82 is 1st car muscle car I got. It has never seen any road time .
eg: I went and got these. When I dont have the car running, no front suspension and no brakes yet. Spent the money I had for getting the car on the ground.
Now have to wait and save up again.
I stripped the car down think I was going to media blast and paint it. come to find out that its really expensive and my car has virtually no rust.
I really dont want to stuff the engine bay and suspension because I would like to change the color and paint the engine bay and underbody.
Another thing with swapping parts is you really dont know if it fits perfectly until you put it on.
I need to come up with a plan or some kind of a flowchart.
then it's a really good idea to move the front mount off of the transmission - and I've been told that being able to adjust your pinion angle is seriously helpful when trying to launch.
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