So I got the hole in the firewall cut for the master cylinder and got the rod all straight and everything but when I hooked it up to the peg on the clutch pedal, it wouldn't budge. In fact, it started bulging out the firewall there was so much resistance. I'm not sure if that means the master cyl. Is bad or what? If you were holding the master in your hand, not hooked up to the trans and no hydrolic fluid in it, would you be able to push in the rod by hand? Because I couldn't, not at all. Not sure if this means the cyl. is locked up or what... Any ideas? Also, when mounting the pedals and the rod on the clutch peg, I did have to push in the clutch pedal just a small bit to get the peg in the hole on the rod, I know you shouldn't really have to do this, and many have made a home-made adjustable master by cutting the rod in half and welding to nuts together and putting them between the two halves of the rod, or you buy an aftermarket one... But my question is that if I just left the rod off the peg and let the pedal hang freely, the pad on the pedal was wayyyy closer to the driver seat than the brake pedal. I don't remember my 5spd IROC being like that. I thought the two pedals should be flush or close to it?

With the master cylinder installed, and full of fluid, and NOT plugged into a slave cylinder, you wont be able to push it in at all. You shouldnt try. It will only move when the fluid has somewhere to go. I.e. with the quick disconnect open, or the line hooked up to the slave. If the master was completely bone dry, you'd probably be able to push it a little, until the air compressed. It would feel spongy. But I woudlnt really try to push it either way.

As for pedal height. Its not going to be exactly the same as your old 5spd set up. You are using different pedals right? I cant remember, but with a stock non-adjustable master, my pedals were pretty even. I think youre using the 4th gen pedals. I remember having to push my pedal down a bit to meet up with the master cylinder rod. Its not a big deal if you have to do that.

If your master cylinder is extended all the way, and when you press the pedal down it compresses far enough to release the clutch...then its fine. Pedal height doesnt really matter.

If its a preference thing, or you need more clutch pedal travel, you'll have to either make it adjustable, or buy an adjustable. **cough cough tick cough cough**

J.

Cool, thanks for the clarification J.

Yea, I'm probably going to hook it all up and see how well the clutch disengages, if it's not optimal I'll order one from Tick. I already got their remote bleeder for the slave and it's really cool.

If you put it all together and bleed the system thorougly it'll work. You'll probably bottom out the master cylinder just leaving it all the way it is. I actually was in the process of building a metal stop for the thirdgen pedals before I got my TICK. Now it just bottoms out on the floor. The 4th gen pedals had a stop that worked well I think.

You should be ok though...everything sounds normal so far to me.

J.

Cool, well a friend said he would sell me his Ram adjustable master for $50. It was only used for one year, I know its not as good as a Tick, but it was $50 instead of $330 for a new Tick. So I guess things worked out well for me regardless, I was just worried about having to drill even more holes to mount it, it took me two times to get it right so now I have to fill the extra holes with some black caulking.

hey guys im having a similar prob. im usin the fourth gen pedals in an 89 gta, i got the holes cut and its all bolted up. i noticed you guys said b4 that its normal to have to push the pedal pretty far down to slide the rod for the master on but how far? mine has to go almost halfway down is that normal? i dont know if your familiar with the helper spring but right at the turning point of the helper is where i can slip the rod on.

That definatly doesnt sound right... When I say I had to push my pedal down some...I only had to push it down 1/2" or so. + or - a little.

When the rod is on...what is the relation between your brake pedal and your clutch pedal? They should be close to even. Might be a little higher or lower...but not by much.

This is assuming your pedals are bolted in correctly, and the master cylinder is bolted in correctly.

Can you take a pic? That would help also.

J.

With having to press the clutch pedal in that far to hook up the rod, I really think you're going to find that the clutch isn't going to disengage near enough to shift in and out of gears.

I went ahead and got that Ram adjustable master from a friend of mine and it looks like that is going to be the key to making my clutch work like stock. If I remember correctly, the 5spd '90 IROC-Z I used to own had the clutch pedal slightly closer to the driver than the brake pedal.

It is just about even with the brake pedal I don't have a pic right now I'm actually in class. But if I put the car on the ground and leave it in gear if I push the pedal all the way it just starts to roll when the pedal hits the floor. I do still need the plastic bushing that goes on the pin but it still seems like it has to be pushed pretty far for the master to hook it on.

Thanks again,
mike

Call Scott and ask. He's put that car through hell...but it's still beautiful and runs, thank goodness.

I have been wondering how that car is doing. I miss the heck out of it

I don't have their numbers or emails, I have since switched wireless companies and got a new phone.