LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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I would track down a wiring diagram for the crankshaft position sensor showing which wires go to the PCM and which (if any go to ground). Now take a voltmeter/test light and check each wire for continuity and if it is being grounded like it should (or shouldn't). One of them will most likely report that it is being grounded when it shouldn't be - then you either hunt the ground or run a new cable.
I suggest autozone.com for wiring diagrams. You just have to register and they have a ton for our cars and the ls1 f-bodies.
none of them go to ground,
1 is 12v reference
1 is low voltage reference
1 is CKP sensor signal
i am going to do a continuity test and see if thats what is doing it. there were some wires that were cut that were running to the pcm that werent connected back together until now. dont know if those effected anything or not.... will the code turn off on the obd 2 scanner if the problem is fixed?
will i have to take the car to the dealership to get the crankshaft sensor to relearn?
Check your gounding anyways. 5v refrence is a circuit that connects to the computer, so make sure the computer grounds are all good.
Next, check the plug itself, commonly people will accidentally plug the low oil level sensor into the crank sensor. (i did this once, you cant see down there, so your just fishing around and guessing)
Next would be to run a program a scanner program to see if the computer is getting any reading what so ever from the sensor. If not, try a "crank re-learn"
LS1 schematics arent overly useful as there are very few places that multiple wires connect. 90% of them are direct connections to the PCM like the Crank sensor above. Pinouts are easier
All critical circuits are direct to the PCM. Non criticals like the HO2s and MAF have separate IGN and grounds which are just as easy to trace
I got your PM. But basically the fellas here offered the same advice I would have. You need to check your wiring, check the plug, maybe replace the sensor if everything else checks out.
Its pretty much the procedure any time you get a code like that. You just gotta check it all out. Make sure grounds are grounded, powered are powered, and signal wire have continuity from the plug all the way back to the PCM pin.
J.
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ARE shortblock, Ross custom boost pistons, arp rod bolts, ARE ported oil pump,
MTI 2e 5.3L ported heads milled .030 with double springs,
228/224 113+1 Comp XE-R, Cloyes adjustable timing chain, LS6 valley cover,
fast 90mm intake, NW 90mm throttle body, SVO 30lb injectors, 85mm MAF,
ASP underdrive pulley, 160* t-stat, stainless LT headers 1.75" primaries
the car is now able to idle! woohoo!! i think it was the fact the wires were close to the headers causing resistance which in turn caused the bad idle but now it is fine!
i noticed when i give gas and let off quickly it takes a little longer to come back down to idle. what could that be caused by?
also i bled the brakes but now when i turn the car on and it idles the brakes are back to being squishy and not engaging. any ideas???