LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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This thread is to help swappers finish up their install. It isnt complete yet, early year pinouts are still needed
That is a 98 Fbody LS1 CTS. If you go to a common parts store asking for a CTS, you will most likely get a 2 pin version correct for pretty much ALL GM engines except 98. Ask for the temp sender
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Pocket, I don't know what most of us would do without you when it comes to the electrical end of the LSx swaps. Subscribing in anticipation of my swap this spring.
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1987 Trans Am, work in progress
2008 Pontiac G8
Retired: 1984 Camaro "ZF" 2.8L, 1989 Camaro RS
Customer Service Manager, 1A Auto Parts
Pocket you are a genius. I have a question doing the 96 LT1 swap. I have the 3rd gen pretty good but the LT1 part is confusing for some reason. I prep'd my third gen harness but where on the LT1 harness do I start to plug in my wires, near the pcm or......? My harness for the Lt1 came with the fuse box attached but no fuses and two relays attached to it and a black (which seem to be a battery ground cable) battery cable thats mounted inside of the fuse box. I ordered a shop manual for the 96 LT1 which will hopefully go in to detail but i need to know where the red( positive battery cable) comes from for the fuse box. is that black cable the power or ground? your diagram is in its simpliest form but in the chart(side by side) from the c100 to the LT1 is that what wires match up. I know I asked alot but I want to do a compiled tutorial for the non technical people who just dug in with no skill or know how.....like me. I have learned so much from these message boards and TGO so thanks to you fine folks here.
This thread will NOT be going over LS1 fuseblocks, dashes or anything other than a plain jane LS1 in 3rd gen swap. A thread covering those maybe in the works for later, but not at this time
In other words, I cant help you with the fuse block because I simply do not know. I do know the stock 3rd gen fuseblock/relay center is more than capable of controlling your LT1 and is already in place, functioning
It sounds like you got a B-body harness as the 4th gen Fbody harness has a separate fuse block. Regardless, a fuseblock will never be a source of heavy grounds, esp for a battery cable. IIRC that cable went to the alt output
The connection chart shows what needs to be spliced where to the swap harness. It doesnt go into detail about the pieces that still need to be plugged in, like the brake sensor, starter solenoid wire etc. These are still critical, but are not directly spliced into the new harness
Go over the LS1 harness thread. Its not identical, but the procedure is the same: marking, disassembly, mockup, lengthening, etc.
Use this diagram to help get you started
I havent made one for the 96-97 cars yet, they added a few connectors
I just prepped 3 '89 harnesses. They are very similar to the 90-92 TBI with the VSS running through the C100. To use these, the buffer box must be bypassed and the speedo signal send through the C207(same pin actually). 85-88 cars had a separate connector near the C207 for injector fuses. Ill cover these when I find one
They also ran the fan fuse through the C207 and changed the wire color from BRN to TAN/WHT. I remember from a while back that someone said the fuel pump wire ran through the C207. It doesnt, it still uses the same pin as posted above in the C100. The fuel pump wire that goes through the C207 is for the ALDL bypass and is generally cut out in the prep. Theres no point in keeping it since the OBDI ALDL is being removed/made inop and the OBDII ALDL has no provision for direct fuel pump control. This is true for the 90-92 cars as well, s dont be confused when you see a GRY wire spliced into your oil switch and fuel control in that area
Hey, I just wanted to add this for the fuel line diagram. I originally was using every single part number you had listed on that diagram, but the stainless line, being very thick and bulky, wouldn't bend short enough to go where I wanted it to under the engine bay, so I removed the RUS 610020 on the fuel rail and replaced it with a 90* swivel, part number RUS 613160. The reason for this is because with the SSW long tubes, and the thickness of the fuel line, the fuel line was way too close to the header going the factory route, so I re-routed it behind the block and down the transmission tunnel, and it comes out by the cross member, avoiding the header completely.
Before with the RUS 610020 (it was angled too high for my opinion, because I had to bend the fuel rail when using truck coils)
Nick, where did u get you SS braided lines ? did they come precut lenghts with fittings crimped on the ends or di u have to make it ?
part # and place would be great.
Also the black braided lines that Spike-Z used looks awesome. links for that Spike
I got it from Jeg's, I will try to get the part number after work. I got a 20 ft piece, it doesn't come with fittings, you have to put them on yourself. I got the -6AN size line.
but I want to do a compiled tutorial for the non technical people who just dug in with no skill or know how.....like me. I have learned so much from these message boards and TGO so thanks 
to you fine folks here.
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