LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Ok I have had nothing but trouble getting my Spohn mounts to work, I asked about in in my other thread already but nobody seemed to have an answer. I took some more photo's to show you guys too see if everything looks normal. It looks like normal to me but I don't know maybe I am missing something. I've tried all the installation methods you guys suggested to me and still am way off.
I sent Spohn an email and the only thing they could think of was if I was using aftermarket clamshells, which I am not. They are OEM units. Prothane mounts, but they should be made to mount up in an OEM way. I just emailed Prothane as well to verify that they are the right mounts and if anything looks off to them.
Here is my problem first off:
Passenger side horseshoe:
Driver side horseshoe:
Passenger side clamshell:
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on ThirdGen!
This is approximately where the holes should be to make this work. I scribed it when I used dynodanmanda's method of attaching the horseshoes to the motor first then dropping the motor down and bolting to the kmember after.
Also I should note that the above picture was only marked on one side while the other side was bolted in. So if I were to redrill the holes I would go half that distance on that side and do the same on the other side. and my marks are off to the side also. The holes need to go maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch higher on each side.
Please, this is so frustrating. I have no clue why this isn't working
Man, I can't think of anything else that could be wrong? Maybe you could drill new holes to mount the passenger side pedestal, or maybe slot the holes on the pedestal so you can move it where it needs to go? I have never seen someone else with this problem. I didn't even have to loosen mine at all, the motor kind of fell into place perfectly.
I am thinking a slot-esque type hole would be best lol. Cause if I do redrill the holes it will probably be so close to the original holes that it will give me an 8 shaped hole.
I am thinking a slot-esque type hole would be best lol. Cause if I do redrill the holes it will probably be so close to the original holes that it will give me an 8 shaped hole.
You could probably even weld shut the old holes on the pedestals if you wanted to. Or better yet, weld them shut right now, THEN drill new holes so the new ones are perfectly round.
Mine didn't line up perfectly (could get the bolt in one end of each side but not the other, had to use a vise grip to "align" the mount holes to each other), but no where near as far off as you're seeing.
I'd say take the Spohn mounts off of the crossmember, run the bolts through the engine and chassis sides, drop the engine back down on the crossmember, and let the mounts settle where they want. Mark, drill, bolt.
Means pulling the engine out again, of course. And getting to those pesky bolt heads on the inside of the crossmember.
Eureka! I think I found the problem. I thought to myself, are the Spohn mounts supposed to be mirrored? So I layed them down side by side to see, and the one mount is about 1/2" or so off as compared to the other one. About the distance I need. Anyone else have pics of their mounts to confirm they are either supposed to be the same or supposed to be different? Pics coming in 5 mins...
Here is a pic, maybe they are supposed to be like that, I dunno, but it's the best answer I can come up with right now.
As you can see they are a little beat up after installing and reinstalling them about 10 times now.
EDIT: I checked the picture on the Spohn website and they looked a bit offset like that as well. I am clueless. I emailed Spohn again to confirm.
Quote:
I'd say take the Spohn mounts off of the crossmember, run the bolts through the engine and chassis sides, drop the engine back down on the crossmember, and let the mounts settle where they want. Mark, drill, bolt.
I tried that method, but if I redril the holes they interfere with half of the other holes so I can't really drill it. It would basically make an elongated hole. I tried to elongate the hole with my dremel but it just destroyed my bits.
Also, taking the kmember bolts out from underneath isn't too hard for me anymore since I've had so much practice. I can do them on my first try without dropping any bolts inside the frame now
I pretty much had the same problem you're having with my Spohn mounts. I could get one side to line up, but not the other. I ended up slotting the holes on the driver's side pedestal about 3/8"-1/2". I struggled with mine for DAYS before I just gave in and slotted the pedestal to kmember bolt holes on the driver's side pedestal. I have a thread on here explaining my problems, which were almost exactly the problems you're having. We must have got ahold of some funky mounts from Spohn, or maybe it has something to do with using Spohn mounts with Prothane bushings.
Maybe, but if both Spohn's mounts and Prothane's bushings are meant to work with OEM stuff then it shouldn't cause a problem. Oh well I think I am gonna slot them too.
I would weld the hole on the pedestal, mount it to the motor, use a hoist to hang the motor a few inches off the kmember and mark from under the kmember (thru the kmember bolts) where to drill the new holes in the pedestal.
Id drill completely new holes in the mounts so you will have an accurate strait shot through the K-member. Either that or invest in some fender washers
I spent several minutes comparing my pictures to yours, suspecting something may be wrong with the set you got.* I couldn't see anything.
The other thought was perhaps your K-member is bent. Never heard of it, but, never know.
(*Several years ago I helped a buddy with his tranny crossmember with torque arm mount and adjustable torque arm. The crossmember simply would not line up with the chassis mount bolt holes. I ended up slotting the crossmember bolt holes for him so we could get the bolts in. It appeared to me the bolt holes were drilled with the template backwards. Got it to work, but it was very frustrating to have to modify an expensive unit like that.)
Eureka! I think I found the problem. I thought to myself, are the Spohn mounts supposed to be mirrored? So I layed them down side by side to see, and the one mount is about 1/2" or so off as compared to the other one. About the distance I need. Anyone else have pics of their mounts to confirm they are either supposed to be the same or supposed to be different? Pics coming in 5 mins...
i checked mine they are off a little but not by 1/2" for sure. That compounded by the fact u have tightened the mounts down to the k-member. can u loosen all the bolts
ie, mount to k-member, clamshell to block and being poly shells probabaly the clamshell bolts itself and give it a try.
Also grease up the thru bolts.
before u start check and make a plan how to get wrenches/sockets to tighten everything down
I still cant believe you are having such a hard time with these. Mine fell together. I too suspected the mounts were off...but your picture with them side by side looks pretty normal.
The only thing I can think of, and you basically figured it out, is that the holes on the k-member are off. Its always possible.
Here's a couple pics of mine. First one is right before i installed it under the motor for the first time.
These are after it was on the car for a few years and I was notching for the oil pan. Can you tell I daily drive mine???
J.
__________________
ARE shortblock, Ross custom boost pistons, arp rod bolts, ARE ported oil pump,
MTI 2e 5.3L ported heads milled .030 with double springs,
228/224 113+1 Comp XE-R, Cloyes adjustable timing chain, LS6 valley cover,
fast 90mm intake, NW 90mm throttle body, SVO 30lb injectors, 85mm MAF,
ASP underdrive pulley, 160* t-stat, stainless LT headers 1.75" primaries
I'd just remove them from the k member, bolt them to the engine, drop it down and get it positioned where you want it, mark the holes and drill fresh ones and your set. If the holes overlap the other a bit use big washers. Nothing too difficult about that is there?
OK, it looks like you did the EXACT same thing that I did, & it caused me endless hours of the same grief you're going through now. Take a look at the bolts holding the clamshells to the engine - see the washers underneath the bolt heads?? A GOOD steak dinner says that if you remove those on both sides, you'll be right at (or VERY nearly at) where you need to be. I'd just use some good Loctite on the bolts, & I'd think you'd be OK.
And I can't take any credit for figuring that one out, five7kid had to come over & spot it...
Quote:
Originally Posted by phillip_helmet
I struggled with mine for DAYS...
I guess I'm glad I'm not the only one - that was one of the worst parts of the swap for me...
What is the poit of using that mount VS the one that makes the LS mount to the stock SBC location? That is what we used in my buddys malibu and it was great. They were 75$ but it was a perfect fit.
OK, it looks like you did the EXACT same thing that I did, & it caused me endless hours of the same grief you're going through now. Take a look at the bolts holding the clamshells to the engine - see the washers underneath the bolt heads?? A GOOD steak dinner says that if you remove those on both sides, you'll be right at (or VERY nearly at) where you need to be. I'd just use some good Loctite on the bolts, & I'd think you'd be OK.
And I can't take any credit for figuring that one out, five7kid had to come over & spot it...
I don't think that's the case here. Your washers were between the clamshells and block.
Yes my washers are between the bolt and the clamshell, there's nothing between the clamshell and the block. I think new holes it is. I can't screw with this anymore.
Well, I did like Cam suggested. I put tape over the original holes (something to draw on) and put the mounts on the motor, then I lowered it into place directly in line with the original holes (they just didn't line up vertically). I then marked the holes with a small pencil. I needed about 3/8" on either side higher to make it work. I drilled new holes but like I thought they sorta merged into the originals. I stopped by Princess Auto and bought myself a carbide tipped cutter for my dremel and went to work just cleaning up the two holes so it was basically a slot. This way I have adjustability. I haven't tried it yet because I had to enlarge my kmember notch slightly also while I was in there (it wasn't hitting the motor, I checked, but it was a little close for movement from acceleration so I widened it a bit). As soon as the paint on the kmember is dry I am gonna try her out Here's hoping
Also Spohn got back to me and confirmed that the mounts are indeed supposed to be like that.
Yeah the bolts now go into the kmember while the Spohn mounts are on the engine. I haven't tightened them up yet but the engine is sitting in their on it's own weight and the bolts went in easy. WOOHOO!
Very interesting. I didn't realize that the only purpose of the Spohn-style mounts was to move the motor forward for the a/c to clear. It makes me wonder if I'm better off adapting a set of small block mounts since I don't intend to run a/c. I just wonder if doing that will move the trans too far back and make it more difficult to mount a torque arm to the crossmember.
Any idea how much farther back the motor will sit with those ebay plates as opposed to the spohn mounts?
I'm not running a/c, so it would appear that these plates would save me a boatload of money... I don't have to buy the LS1 clamshell mounts, and I don't have to shell out $85 for the spohn mounts. I can just build adapter plates from 1/4" flat stock. Sweet.
I can just build adapter plates from 1/4" flat stock. Sweet.
If you have a welder you can modify the stock V8 clamshells to bolt onto the LSx block and have none of these issues. It required drilling a hole and welding a new tab
I got those other style adapter plates off of Sheldon but he said they wouldn't work because they put the motor 1" too far forward or something. But he also made that set himself. Maybe he can chime in.
Why are you guys adjusting the bolt holes on the K memeber to accept poorly made mounts?
The mounts I bought through summit are the same and bolted right in.
Either the mounts suck and I would shove them up Steves a** (but I us all his stuff and love them) or try flipping the clams, they do not look square to me on the photos. Possible flipping the could result in bringing the mounting holes in closer to the block on both sides.
A) The Photo's are off kilter because I had to squeeze the camera between the engine and the frame rail since it was somewhat lowered in the engine bay, but they are square.
B) You can't flip the clamshells, they only go on one way. There is a recessed area at the bottom to make room for the block, if you try and put em on the other way it hits the block and won't sit flat.
Also here is what I will be picking up next weekend:
Not too bad of deal at $600 CAD, BRAND new from GM, 0 miles, BRAND new torque converter, comes with shipping crate even. I should check out what these retail for new from GM< but I am guessing it ain't cheap. I will need to change the tail stock or get a different crossmember mounted torque arm, but I can't pass up a brand new $600 4l60e.
) 
Here's hoping 
