LTX and LSXPutting LT1's, LS1's, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects, including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
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Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Ok, I have read, re-read, and read again various threads on how the heater hoses are supposed to be ran with this swap and it still confuses the tar out of me.
I have the stock heater hose lines from my car, with the diverter valve. I have been looking at this article with these pictures, and it is confusing me to no end because it looks like there is only one hose coming from the firewall (heater core). There are TWO outlets on the firewall for the heater core. I understand you can cut the hose that went from the heater core to the radiator short and put it on the forward-most port on the water pump. But what the heck goes to the other outlet on the heater core?
And my other confusion involves NOT drilling and tapping a nipple onto the top of the water pump for the steam ventilation, and simply running a small hose from where the heater core line that was attached to the radiator (the hose we cut), running a hose from that point to the coolant cross over tubes underneath the intake manifold. From my understanding this works just as good as having a nipple on the water pump.
Anyone that has detailed pictures of how they ran all their heater hoses and DID NOT put a nipple on the water pump, and DID run a hose from the radiator to the coolant cross over tubes, please post them. I really want to get this figured out by tomorrow evening so I can do a test-fire.
__________________ 2nd Place Modified Camaro - ThirdGen Fest '11 LSX / T56 combo, 420rwhp 407 ft./lbs. custom Ford 8.8" with 9" axle tubes, 4.10's and Ford Racing Cobra diff, Moser axles, LS1 brake swap front and rear, Hawks 1 3/4" longtubes, forged internals, TSP MS4, LS6 intake, Spohn LCA's/torque arm/cross member/k member/subframe connectors, Alston subframe connectors, Hotchkis springs, poly motor/trans mounts & sway bar bushings/end links, Memphis Audio / Pioneer audio system, etc etc et
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
I think if you don't plan on keeping A/C you can just ditch the diverter valve and go straight from the two water pump ports to the two heater core ports.
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Yea I do still have that hose. I have like 3 hoses (or maybe 4) that were from the stock setup. One of them is metal, and I have the diverter valve.
I will eventually use A/C, but not right now. I kind of want to hook it up so it will work with a/c, but I guess if it comes down to it I can change it later.
__________________ 2nd Place Modified Camaro - ThirdGen Fest '11 LSX / T56 combo, 420rwhp 407 ft./lbs. custom Ford 8.8" with 9" axle tubes, 4.10's and Ford Racing Cobra diff, Moser axles, LS1 brake swap front and rear, Hawks 1 3/4" longtubes, forged internals, TSP MS4, LS6 intake, Spohn LCA's/torque arm/cross member/k member/subframe connectors, Alston subframe connectors, Hotchkis springs, poly motor/trans mounts & sway bar bushings/end links, Memphis Audio / Pioneer audio system, etc etc et
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Simplest way... Hook two hoses from the water pump up to the heater core. It'll work. I ran it that way for awhile. A/C will work also. Not to 100% efficiency...but it'll work.
The stock heater control valve isnt optimal for the LS1 in my opinion. You should pick up the valve that I used for my swap...Im sure you saw my posts about it. Simplest hook up, and seems to work great. Also...you can easily plumb that in after you hook up the heater hoses. Winter is coming...Ide forget about the valve for now, and just run the hoses in their most basic configuration.
Remember...The LS1 didnt have a heater control valve. So you will be fine without one for the time being.
As for the steam vent...again, if you run a hose from the outlet under the throttle body, to the radiator, you will be setting it up just like it was in the 4th gen. Im not sure exactly what all you have going on...but if you have a port on the rad, just use that. No need to drill and tap the water pump.
J.
__________________
ARE shortblock, Ross custom boost pistons, arp rod bolts, ARE ported oil pump,
MTI 2e 5.3L ported heads milled .030 with double springs,
228/224 113+1 Comp XE-R, Cloyes adjustable timing chain, LS6 valley cover,
fast 90mm intake, NW 90mm throttle body, SVO 30lb injectors, 85mm MAF,
ASP underdrive pulley, 160* t-stat, stainless LT headers 1.75" primaries
Re: Trying to get the swap running tomorrow, need some last minute questions answered
Cool, thanks. I think I am making it more complicated than it really is. I won't even be driving it this winter, I just want to get it running today so I can take it to get the exhaust done and get it tagged next week and tuck it away for the cold months.
I'm going to have to try to find a barbed reducer fitting to reduce the nipple on the radiator to a hose size that will fit on the coolant cross over tubes.
__________________ 2nd Place Modified Camaro - ThirdGen Fest '11 LSX / T56 combo, 420rwhp 407 ft./lbs. custom Ford 8.8" with 9" axle tubes, 4.10's and Ford Racing Cobra diff, Moser axles, LS1 brake swap front and rear, Hawks 1 3/4" longtubes, forged internals, TSP MS4, LS6 intake, Spohn LCA's/torque arm/cross member/k member/subframe connectors, Alston subframe connectors, Hotchkis springs, poly motor/trans mounts & sway bar bushings/end links, Memphis Audio / Pioneer audio system, etc etc et