I thought it was pretty good, but i am not the guy that does these things enough to say what is good and bad, i know ugly welds when i see them, thats it, LOL. Built my T56 crossmember on my T top car with the stock crossmember and just hacked and welded, it is still holding but i used a friends welder that was a POS, si i am surprised it is holding as well as it is.

Crossmembers dont have to be as strong as aftermarkets build them. I can jack a house up with my UMI. OEM crossmemebers are pretty flimsy, easy to flex with a vise. Mine is marginally stronger than the stock piece and holding up ok. I only have about 300 miles on it though, so time will tell

I am pretty sure that angle iron will hold out for me, i thought about boxing it in a bit, but i may just leave it alone.

That angle iron is plenty strong.

I am confident in it, pretty damn thick.


WELLLLLL....i am a happy camper, i did not have the help i did yesterday so i am surprised i got where i did today, still needs the cooling system, make my brackets for the charging system, add trans fluid and fab a cover for the shifter, but....

SHE RUNS! Fired to lift with a single bump of the key, even with old fuel that has been in the tank for a year and a half. Not used to such a quick fire up and instant idle because i am used to playing with a damn distributor! LOL

The carb is tuned for my old 383 with a cam so it is probably specked in as close as can be. No revs, just a quick check to see if everything was wired in correct. The thunder of god any longer than the few seconds i let her go was probably enough to make my neighbors hate me a bit more at 1:30 AM. Idled pretty damn good for no adjustments, i stabbed the number 6 curve in since i dont have the USB adapter to work with the old *** serial port design cable that comes with the MSD box, so that is also on the to do list, LOL.

The passenger side header went in from the bottom after i unbolted the passenger mount and lifter it as high as i could with the engine hoist. The rear header bolts on these are just as hard as the SBC pieces when it comes to installation, but i still have a AC box too. The fit very well, besides being close to the fuel line on the driver side i have no compalints, the hang maybe a inch below my frame rails and i have the low solid moroso mounts on it.

I will post results later of the use of the truck water pump, assuming it is good, as there was dried coolant on it but that might have been form the vatos removing it form the salvaged truck. So i hope i dont have to buy a new one any time soon.....

Here is a couple pics of the final result of the nights work, i am pleased as hell that it fired and ran like it did missing a damn coil, could not tell.

hell of a deal dude, that's awesome! i'm headed out in just a few minutes to go to FL for my dyno tune. i must say, i envy your ability to turn a screw and meter fuel right about now, lol!

LOL, thanks man, means something coming from guys like you that ave already done what i am trying to accomplish.

Hope you get yours squared away the first time, i know the damn tunes can sometimes have to be redone to get them right and what not. But at least you will be knocking down better MPG.

I am curious to what mine will do but my speedo is mechanical and the T56 is not, LOL, so i will not know for a long time. I do love my carbs though, i just cannot wait to get her done and start road testing and get my adapter to hook the lap top up and tune the timing MY way

Well, here is todays progress, getting the belt system together, did some custom work to make it look like it might work, lines up pretty good, lemme know what you think about my engineering, LOL.

This is a couple pieces u cut up and tacked into place for mock up, looks like it will work so i will weld everything up better when i know it is gonna fly:



This is all the way down, i think it is gonna work out but i want a better joint to use, this is cheap aluminum and the parts i need should be made of better material, so temporary is the word.:



This is fully extended, it is hitting the water outlet at this point, think i have enough adjustability.



Here is the idler pulley setup, thanks to Nemess, he gave me the prototype for the truck accessories, he should have the passenger side for me for the alternator by next week, so the driver side will work till i get the cnc'd parts from Nemess.



Lemme know what you guys think about my setup, it is not perfect but for someone eliminating power steering and not using anything but the truck pulley and waterpump.

Nice option i think.

-Z

I would build another leg to support the lower joint. Either go up to the second tensioner hole or down to one of the t-stat bolts. That piece can flex quite a bit like that

Maybe something to triangulate the idler too

Also, are you sure the alt can support the load of the new engine? TPI alts arent known for their output. B-body LT1 and newer truck LSx alts put out +100A. Something to think about

yeah but this alt isnt supporting fuel injection so i might make it.

YEa, like i said, i thought it would be next week before the CNC parts were here for the prototype design, but later today we are supposed to be fitting them. You wouldnt believe how strong that idler setup is, i mean DAMN, i cannot make it flex for anything.

The altenator should be fine, never had any issues with it carbed with the 383s i have had int he car. The coils having more dwell time will also help i think. Hell, i had AC working on the car till now too, the only issue i have with these alternators is they like to fly apart at high RPM, but that is usually old stockers, this one has seen 7000 RPM on the old engine, should be ok.

Here are the final CNC'd aluminum parts witht he hardware installed, lines up PERFECT and we are going to start selling these setups pretty soon, also will be able to use a bracket to retain OE power steering pump as well, lemme know what you guys opinions are of said prototype?

looks just like the speed inc bracket they sell. Hope you can beat $149 I think it was on sale.

Havent seen them.

The new alt bracket looks excellent and much stronger than the first version

Wish I had access to a machine shop and lots of alum stock

LOL, yea, the first was just getting the alternator in position and taking measurements for belt length, looks great now, the belt size we used is a touch tight, you have to but a tiny bit of effort into sliding it over the water pump pulley and it doesnt like to really come off with the joint compressed all the way but i like it like that. We are trying to gather info on what people want and dont like so we can have a happy group of people when we start selling this system. I cannot lie though, it is also the intention of my setup to have a large turbo/supercharger on the driver side and this kit delivers the room for sure.

very interested to see the powersteering version. will this work with an ls1 style alternator? a big single turbo/supercharger is also in the future for my car. (quazi-distant future, lol)

Unfortunately we are leaving the LS1 car and truck alternators to the stock brackets, we dont think there will be much market for something that you can use stock.

Here is my DONE finished product, needs a damn water pump as mine leaks it but off, other than that, need to make a shifter plate for a smaller boot and tune the 6LS box with my lap top, runs strong as hell but needs a better tune than the junk plug in modules offer, LOL.Needs to of course clean up the loose wiring and all that but for now i have her where i can cal it good.

Used the stock upper radiator hose, just tapped the water neck up back and forth with a rubber mallet till it cam out then i used JB weld with put it back in.





Needs exhaust also, but that might be done tomorrow so i can load a sound clip.

Z

nice!! now get it right so we can see it at the meet.

so when is the spray going back in the black car?

Well, i am going to install a independent dedicated fuel system on the car for that, soooo....when cash is right again as this damn thing has officially broke me and i am scraping money for exhaust, a water pump and inspection/registration...LOL.



It will be damn it!

the power steering version will use a TC or GM TypeII power steering pump. also its aluminum body, remote power steering fluid resevoir just like LT1 type. The pump i designed around is slightly lighter than an actual LS Fbody or C5 ps pump. and its found cheeper than a fbody or corvette pump.
also the fbody pump and bracket also aligns and works with my setup. if prefer to run that pump instead. but the spacing changes to accomodate fbody pumps and bracket.

designed around GM 1 wire 3rd gen alternator. since they are cheep, easy to find and rebuild. with a rebuild they will put out over 105amp. iirc they can even get to around 150amp with smaller diameter pulley and internals.
also my brackets locate the alternator alot more inboard than the C5 bracket and are lighter

all the parts locate high for easy access, and allow for "trucks manifolds" type hotparts. or even allow for LS truck designed superchargers systems.

im actually working on a P1SC, P600B bracket for use with my parts. for use with 8rib pulleys. the 8rib pulleys are availble for alternators. and i can make one or find for ps pump. so it can run off 1 serpentine belt using stand off or other form of belt tensioners for belt.
but my heim link bites down pretty hard and holds the belt on there pretty good. no bouncing around like stock spring loaded tensioner at rpm.

iirc there bracket uses differnet alternator. and bracket is completely different from mine. unless its one i havent seen. but i know they have one that is crescent shaped which is nice piece also.

iknows it i lose myself sometimes when im around a lathe
but i make all kinds of 1off parts

Well, this thing sounds great with the flowmasters on it, pulls like it is on a mission in 5th gear and i still have the rev limiter at 6000 and i know damn well it is just getting starter and wants to pull to 7k.

Sound clip coming soon.

Wifes reaction to first ride,"Holy crap....."

LOL, got the exhaust on it, will need to be re done when i get a better trans crossmember, the Spohn SUCKS.

Oh yea, she said it makes here cammed 355 feel like she is riding in my stock TBI 350 truck...LOL.

Well, here is a paint preview...

only see red x

ok i see now.
ur gonna have to paint my car one day

LOL, it is not hard ifi have the right stuff, i didnt have directions to mix the red and didnt know what to reduce with. SUCKS. But, looks better than the faded crap primer sealer.

Wish i went with the silver maybe....but i like it.

zane, would you take a picture with a real camera and quit foolin' with your phone? i can't see anything in your pictures...

LOL, they look better when the car is outside, in the garage there is glare.

can i get a ride when its 100%?
i hear these ls motors are pretty peppy

LOL, you have built better so NO! LOL

looks good. you gonna wet sand it?

Maybe, the damn red might not be able to be, the hardener was old and had the 1 inch thick layer in the bottom that i am sure was crucial to the hardening of the paint...

Here is a clip, the camera man sucks so skip to 45 secs if you like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PdnM...layer_embedded

sounds good man.
time for the supercharger!

Well, i have about 160 miles on a tank that is about 1/4 still, not bad for beating the snot out of it. Wonder what it would do with a vacuum secondary driving it normal?

No different than driving a properly-tuned double pumper "normal".

Well, i have always had the vacuum secondaries do better, just because when i drive a bit more spirited thru traffic the secondaries dont squirt or open like the DP.

Well, that depends upon how the VS is tuned.

If you have to get into the DP secondaries in "normal" driving, your carb is probably too small.

Well, more than half throttle on my DP and the secondaries are opening and the rear squirter is doing its job, my VC has to get into the RPM for it to deliver more over the primaries. For me, the DP just uses more no matter how i tune it unless i drive like a grandpa.

Got any in car vids of you driving since the swap?

dang! this car came together wuick bro, i member when i first saw it lol it is one nice looking thirdgen, the carb setup is sick looking. So,... are you guys selling those accessory brackets yet? if so or not let me no if you can fab me up one ill pay ya just name the price, bnow the alternater you used is the 3rd gen one correct?

We are feeling out to see how many folks will want the setup, i have been beating the prototype to death and it still kjeeps on rolling, i am going to post the setup with the power steering in a bit too. But yes, the stock alternator is what we made it for



Not yet, will get some soon so folks can see what a stock 6.0 with home ported heads and cam can do, thing runs HAAARRDDD, beat the hell out of a Skyline on a 20 roll, thought he was going to get me off the jump but i murdered him, LOL. NEVER thought i would get to run a skyline!

yup, i designed around a 3rd gen alternator. to cut down cost some on ls swap. plus it just looks right at home. and works great, compact, cheep,and so on.
i designed bunch of other ls swap parts also. around 3rd gens.

Here is a pic of the PS pump, i have another uploading.

5in. diamater metal 6rib pulley.
has access bores just like lt1. but lt1 pulley is smooth.no ribs.
this pump is aluminum body. slightly lighter than stock oe ls iron pumps.
has hi and lo pressure side. needs remote mount resevoir. i have fitting available to regulate flow for hi pressure side. and fitting for an fittings for return side.
bracket is billet cnc aluminum plate. precision machined bores. precision spacers and grade 8 and 10.9 hardware. (uses both for this pump) metric for bracket to head and sae for ps pump to bracket. with nylock nuts and grade8 bolts and washers. my own design. works pretty well. lines up correct. also this pump can be purchased remanufactured for lower than actual ls fbody and c5 ps pumps.
GM Type II/TC Type pump