Excellent progress. Car will look better than new when complete Love the pic of the empty packaging thrown around the garage. My swap looked the same One point of interest, If you're going to cut a hole in the firewall to route the PCM harness through, its easiest to do it with the engine and HVAC box removed. The hole and under dash mounting is the cleanest PCM location Ive seen

i plan on running all of it through the fender then in the cars passenger side and the computer will mount under the dash, will have to take my a/c unit back out but not a big deal, just wanted to see it with the new paint job.

also just curious as to who has a heat shield on the gas tank? i dont really want to put mine back in since i love the way that it looks right now, but im wondering since the exhaust runs right over the read end and that will it be a problem if i leave this off?

Nice progress. Cant wait to get mine going

I tossed my shield

Unless you have a super restrictive muffler, it will never get very hot. Large diameter, high flowing exhausts do a great job of getting rid of gasses and excess heat. Usually you can touch my tailpipes barehanded even after a long drive. I wouldnt push the exhaust against the tank though...

nice build your Z28 will look good

ok so i have the rear end and suspension in and just mounted the back disc brakes but its looking like i wont be able to have the calipers mounted were they are, looks like the e brake cable wont be able to be mounted and it'll hit the control arm, wondering how other people have mounted there calipers, also i see baer sent me 2 black spacers and im not to sure if there needed to push the rotor out a tad bit, cause right now its not sitting flush with the edge of the axel. dont know if thats an issue or not

also does a line or another hook up go in between the master and slve cylinder for the clutch because mine does not look like its just gonna slide in nicely unless im trying to hook something up wrong

If you were to swap housing ends that the mounting plates were bolted to you should be able to have the calipers in an upper aft location instead of upper forward. By that I mean move the one on the passenger side to the the driver side and swap driver to passenger similarly. The calipers would then be in the same location as the late third-gen PBR disk calipers were mounted and no control arms in the way.

but if i were to switch the calipers from each side the bleeders wouldnt be in the right spot

If you were to swap the mounting brackets, pad cages, and calipers from side to side the bleeders would still be in the top location. If that is what you mean by "right spot." Disclaimer needed: I base this on the components, geometry, and and assembly paradigm of the PBR brakes on my car.

I have to be off work tomorrow to be taxi to my mother. I might be able to get home early enough to take pics of the rear PBR setup on my car. I am making a very liberal guess that the Baer setup should be similar in its general location configuration. FYI my car from the factory was J65 Delco-Moraine(sp?) ductile iron junk 4-wheel disks. I swapped in the aluminum PBR setup as other 1LE swappers had done.

it doesnt matter anymore, i mounted the calipers on the back pointed down because it was the only way i could do it, i checked to see if i could switch everything around and it didnt look like it was gonna work at all so there mounted now(not quite the position i wanted them at but im sure itll still look good) and the new brake lines are all bent so i just have to tighten it all up and change the e brake cables to hook them up since they were used for drum brakes before, once thats done the whole back end is done. then i plan on putting my k member with the a arms and the suspension and brakes and get the new brake lines in the front bent and hooked up and then the joy of getting those 4th gen pedals and the electronic pedal mounted. hopefully my wiring harness leaves hawks this week so i can drop the motor and tranny in when it gets here and get this thing running and tuned before may.

more pics

Anyone have a picture of how to mount the aftermarket strut towers? I can't get one of the holes to line up. I think I have the 2 plates on right but something must not be right. So if anyone has a picture thatd be very helpful

well i have the front end all bolted up now, next on the list is running the front brake lines and getting the pedals and clutch in. had to buy a new slave cylinder from a 01 camaro because the gto fitting did not work and i could not find someone that sold that fitting without buying the whole slave cylinder. my poly motor mounts left hawks today so hopefully thats here next week so the motor and tranny can be dropped in right away.

well i finally dropped the motor and tranny in, it actually wasmt to hard to get it in from the the top at all. my wiring harness should be here in about a week and a half so its crunch time to get it running and on the road again.

theres 2 engine swaps going on in the garage right now, in the corner you can see the 540 thats going into my dads 71 camaro drag car

ur ganna love that transmission! did you switch to a fbody clutch master cylinder?
what gear ratio did you go on that 12 bolt?

yes i put an fbody ls1 clutch master cyinder in, the gears are 4 10s i was debating for a while between 3 73s and 4 10s but since im gonna be taking this to the track i wanted the 4 10s.

nice. did u look into the gear ration on the gto tranny? its already geared a bit better like z06 specs. and i ran into some trouble finding the fbody cup to use the fbody shifter.

I did look into the gears but can't remember what they are. I have the pro 5.0 shifter and it seems like it fits alright.

so i have my coil overs in the front set to as low as they can go and my car is sitting way to high, its basically stock height. i know that this swap is shaving alot of weight off the front but i thought these would still let me slam the car and still have some more room for lowering. the springs are pro touring #300, im wondering if anyone else has this problem with these springs or maybe there is amuch lighter spring out there. if all else fails ill be cutting these springs because theres no way im leaving it at that height, some input would help alot.

Get some springs rated for a V6

I cut my stock springs down with great difficulty. Numerous searches gave a rough estimate of 1/4 coil/1" drop. I took a half coil and barely dropped an inch. Alignment tomorrow to see if i need to go lower still, and Im using an iron block!

I don't think there is different springs for v6s for coil overs, cutting springs wouldn't be that bad, I've done it before when I didn't have coil over suspension

Don't forget that that when you cut coil springs the spring rate goes up and the ride gets correspondingly rougher. For a track car not a big deal but if street driving for any significant time it could get a little uncomfortable. There are quite a few threads here on this.

Mike

Yes I know, I am very aware of this and really am not concerned at all. I really am not picky about the ride in my car, last year when I lowered it and put 18 inch rims on with not much rubber it was rough but it looked fantastic, if it makes it look way better I can handle a bumpy ride

Congratulations! The engine is in it´s new home, Looks sooo nice in there. I just got my L98 lowered down from the engine bay a couple of hours ago, now I just got to raise the car back up high on the jackstands so that I can get the old engine and tranny out now.
As soon as It´s sold of I´ll place an order for a bunch of stuff for my LS2 swap from Hawks. What do you think about the stock GTO exhaust manifolds, will they fit the 3:rd gen? I know that 4:th gen manifolds work, but the GTO units doesnt look the same to me. They dont even have the O2 sensor bungs in them either. Let me know what you think? I know that the hawks LT´s are super sweet, but 900$ is a bit too much for me, so I´d really like if I could keep the GTO units for now. . .

all you need is a 4th and 5th gen and you got a time line of camaros lol. sweet garage, awesome build, im looking forward to the finish. you going with a dual exhaust? maybe i missed a picture

no im not going with duals, just a y pipe to a single 3 inch, my brother has 2 4th gens so we almost have the full line up, i was thinking about getting a 5th gen instead of this project but decided i wanted the 3rd gen to be fast haha

well i got the hawks headers in and they look great! i had no problems with them fitting at all, but now my fuel lines are almost right up against the driver side header, dont know what im going to do about that yet, also the trasnmision crossmember is in some serious need of modifying and also the floor pan right above the torque arm is gonna need a big dent because its hitting bad and the car still needs to go alot lower

so ive read something about changing the cup on the gto tranny? why is this? havent got my shifter mounted yet but do i need to change something else to make the fbody shifter work?

ok i havent posted anything in a while because ive been stuck in a rut for a while. it now turns over but it will not fire and i cannot figure it out, i just changed the crank position sensor but that didnt help so i must have something hooked up wrong and right now its getting pretty frustrating. i havent done anything with vats but i dont think thats the problem, also when my battery gets hooked up the driving lights and door open alarm stay on even if the keys not in the ignition and the doors are closed. the only things that arent hooked up are the calibrating box and a\c so i would think it should fire right up.

Yes you need to change the cup in the gto transmission to mount an f-body shifter, that's wht I had to do to use the f-body hurst short shifter. Will the starter even engage? did you bypass the car's VATS?

I did fit the f body shifter without changing the cup and the starter engages and the engine turns over but there's no spark, I never did anything with the vats.

It sounds just like the same VATS problem i had..... sorry to say. Send the comp out to get redone with the VATS bypass. Just my opinion of course.

But I thought the car would still fire without anything done to the vats? I have power to my coils and all that there just no signal for the spark, isn't there a module to bypass the vats? I'm guessing I'm going to need this. I never really looked into the vats issue when starting this. So you think this could be my problem with no spark?

From what I´ve read there are actually 2 VATS that are of concern to me and you. One in the car on the drivers side kickpanel, around the fuses some where. And then you have the VATS in the new GTO computer that needs to be turned off by some computer hacker/tuner. The one in the car is the one you can fix by yourself, hooking upp two cables...that what I´ve read anyway. I´m sure you could find alot about tha VATS here on this forum.

yes i have been reading throughout the forum trying to figure this out, i did not know the the computer needed to be tampered with, that could be the reason its not getting spark. ill have to look into getting a vats bypass module.

so does anyone know if i HAVE to program the vats out of the GTO computer or can i just put a module under the dash? i dont feel like spending the money to program the computer when if i can just put the module in, and still wondering why my lights and beeper inside are constantly on even when the keys not in the car.. deffinetly needing help right away..

I think that one you might be forced to go into the ECM to turn it off. You could try checking with a place that does starters that might have a modulator that would work.

The problem with your lights must be due to an ignition circuit being on 12V constant and not the 12V switched circuit off the key.

[quote=Ace;4558254]I think that one you might be forced to go into the ECM to turn it off. You could try checking with a place that does starters that might have a modulator that would work.

So what your saying is the module could bypass the vats without going into the computer? To me it doesn't make much sense to have to get the vats tuned out of the computer, I would imagine bypassing it with the module would do just fine but I could be wrong.

[quote=cramer12345;4560369] Yea, i didnt have spark, and my injectors wasnt getting a signal as well.

I disconnected the one under the dash all together in the past, but i had to get the new comp reprogramed, disconnecting the vats in the comp.

So you used a new GTO computer and it didn't send a signal for spark? So can the module idea and just reprogram the computer and it should be good?

Wow what a project. I just read the whole thing from start to where you are now. Awesome work!! I love it. Now just to get your pride and joy started.

My guess would be yes. But you have to make sure that who-ever reprograms the comp, knows to do away with the VATS in the program. And i was using a stock LQ4 comp that came with the motor, but i would think that we are facing the same issue. I was not getting a signal to my injectors, or my coil boxes due to the VATS. I had a buddy from work come over to go inside the comp, and turn the VATS off. Car fired right up. Good luck. You could probably look into it more on this sight, or call GM and youl find all the info you need on how to correct this issue. Its common on these swaps

Ok so I got the computer reprogrammed and she finally fired!! But it shut off right away, do I still need to put a module under the dash for the vats? I figured if they were taken out of the computer it would be fine

nvm the last post, i was in to much of a hurry and to excited to notice the maf sensor wasnt hooked up haha she runs now and sounds great!!
i noticed that guys are drilling into the water pump for a steam vent but i looked on mine and it looks like i have one that comes out of each head.. i take it this will be my stea vent that goes to the outlet on the rad under the overflow outlet?

Awsome!!!!!!!! Nice job man. Welcome to the new world.....LOL! I thoought it would be ok after the comp set up. Good job!!!!!!