dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I'm finally making some good progress with my swap. It's still going to be quite awhile before the engine is in the car. Here is a pic of my car and the current engine.




And here is the engine I am working on that will be put in the car

As you can see from the photo of the LS1, I actually have two LS1's! I haven't figured out how to get them both in the car yet. Actually the one in the foreground is a rebuilt longblock with all new CompCam components and Speedpro Hypereutectic pistons that I got a great deal on. The one in the background came out of a wrecked '98 TA. I am using that one for all of the swap parts needed. Once I get what I need off of it I will have a longblock for sale. It has the "triangle heads" on it.

As you can see from the LS1 photo, the valve cover don't seem to fit with the CompCams Pro Magnum roller rockers under them. I removed the sheet metal from inside the valve covers since this photo was taken, but they still don't seem to fit completely. I did a search, but couldn't find if anyone has these rockers with stock valve covers. Do any of you know if this will work or if I will need to get aftermarket covers? I will post a more recent pic of the engine here shortly.

dprest68

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Here is the most recent photo of the engine just after I got my balancer installed. As you can see (hopefully) the passenger side valve cover isn't fully seated. I don't have the valves adjusted yet, but this still worries me. I wasn't planning on buying valve covers.


Side view


My homemade balancer installer. M16x2.0 ATR, flange nut, the washer from my ARP balancer bolt, a 3/4" drive 1-3/8" socket and lots of moly lube. I have two more of these installers for sale if anyone is interested. Minus the socket of course

BlueZee28

iTrader: (30)

That's a clean bird. The stock engine compartment was very tidy, reminds me of mine before I started. There's nothing like ripping a perfectly good untouched TPI motor out in favor of something better.

dprest68

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After doing a few searches, I still couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the filler neck off my old valve covers. I ended up just buying a new one. Once I got the new one I figured out why I couldn't get it off.
sorry it's blurry.
It has a little tab that keeps it from backing off. Most of you probably already know this though.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Nick. Yeah, I tried to keep it looking nice even though the L98 has a knock in the engine. That's why it's getting replaced I can't wait to get this LS1 in there! I hope it turns out as clean as your Camaro did.

dprest68

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Is this something that I will need to keep or can I get rid of it? It mounts on the manifold. I believe it is the EVAP purge solenoid.

dprest68

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I just got the fuel pump replaced the other day to a 255 Walbro. Lots of fun.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ml#post4801403

1nasty86

iTrader: (5)

lookin good dude!!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Great start for the swap

Spacers for the valve covers isnt unheard of on LSx engines. Its generally cheaper to go with aftermarket valve covers over the cost of spacers though

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...rs-covers.html
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/genera...r-spacers.html
Cheap set
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/parts-...-clean-up.html

Good to see you used a balancer tool instead of the LS1tech method of using the bolt. I dont care how many people get away with hammering a bolt on there, using the tool is always the proper method

Most people do end up breaking the fill neck when removing. No matter, it looks better without it if not using coil covers

Keep the EVAP thing if you're doing an emissions friendly swap. If not, cap the port on the intake and toss it

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

ditto on the balancer install; too many horror stories of stripped threads for me to want to do it that way. found someone on 'tech that was selling something similar to what you made.

keep the photos coming, i haven't even seen my bird since it got buried in the recent snow

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Pocket for the input. One of the links that you put on there talked about Yella Terra making thicker valve cover gaskets. I may check into that. I am going to adjust the valves this weekend to see if it helps the situation. I have a feeling it will. I just may need the thicker gasket to get the necessary clearance. We'll see.

Yeah, I did a lot of research on the balancer installs and read about some of the problems people had using the bolt to install it. That is why I decided to do it "the correct way"

I plan on putting coil covers on in the future which is why I wanted the filler neck on there.

I will just put the EVAP solenoid away in case I need it in the future for some reason.

Thanks again,
Dave

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

1ADan, do you remember how much they were asking for the install kit? No biggie if you don't remember. That sucks that your bird is buried in the snow! Keeping it on ice huh? So it looks like you are still working on your 5.3 swap in your bird? I thought it was funny that your exhaust manifolds had your name on them! Do you happen to know the power loss difference between the '98 manifolds and the '01-'02 manifolds? Looks like you had your manifolds bead blasted. You're going to have a sweet ride when you get it finished.

Nice grey G8 in the background of your swap pics. I'm assuming that's yours. My girlfriend has one just like it. I have an Orange v6 G8 and I love it. My girlfriend liked mine so much that she went out and bought her grey one

Later,
Dave

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

I think I paid about $25 or so, can't find the PM's anymore, so not sure.

My swap's going very slow; its not my daily driver so I can afford to sit around and wait for the deals (and wait for the paychecks to pay for the goodies). Working 2 jobs and maintaining a house cuts into my car time, but its a hobby.

not sure how much you gain from the later manifolds, but they were only $50 locally, so I figured it couldn't hurt. Actually didn't even have to get them blasted - quick hit of the wire wheel and some high temp paint makes them look brand new. for how long, that remains to be seen

yeah, the G8's my daily driver. told myself it was the only car i could see myself driving after getting rid of my 97 gtp and found a great deal on the v6. I'll leave the v8 and horsepower bug to the TA.

good luck with the project!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Dan. Yeah, I understand. This is an expensive hobby, even on the cheap!

I'm probably going to keep my '98 manifolds for the time being. I took the heat shield of the driver side manifold this weekend so that I can clean them both up and paint them. One of my collector studs is damage beyond repair, but I think I came up with a cheap and hopefully easy fix.

Same here on the G8.

Later,
Dave

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I made a ton of progress this weekend guys. I will post an update and some pics when I get some spare time.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

The most important thing I got done this weekend was getting my valves adjusted per the directions on CompCam's website. http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/comp-...ment-2076.html

After getting them all adjusted properly I was able to put the valve covers on and tighten them down without any interference. So that made me very happy. So that puts to rest the question of whether the Pro Magnum rockers will clear the stock valve covers. The answer is yes, once you remove the sheet metal on the inside of the covers.

I will post the rest of what I did this weekend a little later.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I picked-up a new power steering pump from Autozone this weekend. I actually only needed the reservoir, but I figured I should just replace the pump too since it probably had over 100,000 miles on it. My reservoir was cracked at the low pressure discharge outlet which is why my pump was the dirtiest thing on the whole "swap" engine. Luckily I figured it out when I was attempting to get it clean again. Anyways, the pump that came from "the zone" came with this nasty cap on it.

I almost returned the pump, but the inside of the pump didn't look like the cap and was clean inside. Luckily I kept my old cap.

I made my own pulley installer for putting on the power steering pump pulley too. it worked real slick. So now the power steering pump is one more item crossed off my list of things to do.

I also bought new NGK plugs while at "The Zone". There was only $0.50 difference in the price between the copper ($2.49 ea.) and platinum plugs ($2.99 ea.) so I bought the platinum ones.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I also got everything swapped over from the "swap" engine to the new engine and once I get the tranny off the "swap" engine I will be ready to sell it. Here are pics of the engine with everything installed except for the coils. I want to get them cleaned-up before sticking them on there.

Do any of you know what the connector on top of the power steering pump in the pic below goes to?

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here is the other side of the engine with everything attached and connected. I can't wait to get those manifolds looking better. They are fugly! This is the manifold with the messed-up stud. I think I am going to take a stud from the cat pipe on the other side. If I can get it out that is.

Here is another wire that I'm unsure of what it connects to.

And this vaccum line that is in the harness and connects to the back of the manifold. Where does the other end connect?

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

Pretty sure its for the IAT sensor.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

First is IAT
Second Crank sensor behind the starter
Vacuum is for HVAC on the 4th gen. You dont use it for the swap. Your 3rd gen has its own vacuum line coming out of the firewall to connect to the intake under the MAP sensor

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

You may have noticed in one of the pics above that I removed the heat shield from the driver's side manifold. I am not sure if I am going to put it back on once I get the manifold cleaned-up so I am trying to come up with a plan to do so just in case.

I found two thin washers that I could use on the ends and rivet through them, but my rivets are waaaaaay too long! I would need much shorter ones since the stand-offs on the manifold aren't very tall. I may go to the harware store to see what kind of short screws they have that might work.

The other problem that I was trying to resolve was the connection of my dipstick tube to the tranny. More specifically, how to attach it to the bellhousing so that it won't move at all. Then boom, it hit me like a ton of bricks. A fairly simple solution.

I ran a 1/2" drill bit in the unused bellhousing hole, then tapped it at with a 9/16" tap. I got the shortest 9/16" bolt the hardware store had (1" long) and a nut to go with it since it would be too long without the nut and would need too many washers to look decent. I had to enlarge the hole in the dipstick tube mount, but it all worked great and that thing isn't going to move now. A $13.84 solution which included a new 9/16" tap.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Rich and Pocket for the info. I completely forgot about the crank sensor. Out of site, out of mind I guess. I will remove that vaccum hose then and cap the manifold outlet. Is the IAT sensor on the intake duct or something? Or is it on the engine and I am just not seeing it, like the crank sensor

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

You can leave the vacuum line open in the LS1 harness or trim it back. Its open on both ends. The port under the MAP sensor needs to be connected to the 3rd gen vacuum line or capped if not using HVAC

IAT is in the inlet ducting. 4th gens had it in the lid, youll have to port is somewhere in the intake tract

Something about those manifolds, they are stainless. Cut and weld the EGR/AIR ports you're not using and grind the bolt bosses down. Id suggest keeping the heat shields, they really keep the heat under control

My solution to the dipstick was a $2 conduit clamp bolted to the cyl head

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Ah, okay. I will connect the vaccum line there once the times comes and I finally get to that point.

I am planning on putting that IAT sensor in my ram-air box. I'm assuming I can just drill and tap a hole for it. And I'm really hoping that I can still make my ram-air box work with the swap. Only time will tell I guess.

Yeah, I thought that maybe they were stainless just because of the golden discoloration near the head flange. The part that I hit with the fiber wheel cleaned-up real easy too. Yeah, I was thinking about cutting and welding those ports since I won't be using them. What bolt bosses are you referring to? Suggestion noted on the heat shields. I will figure out a way to get them back on.

I thought about that dipstick solution too, but I had to be different

are you still doing wiring harnesses for people Pocket? I'm nowhere near ready yet, but I want to have my ducks in a row when the time comes. I'm funny like that!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

No need to tap the IAT hole for a NA swap. Just drill the hole and slip a grommet in like factory

Drilling/tapping the unused hole in the trans for the dipstick is common and I probably would have gone that route. I completely forgot about it until the day of the swap and didnt have that big of a tap handy. The clamp was my best solution on the fly

Yes I still do wiring, shoot me a PM

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Good deal. That will make it easier to install the IAT then. I read a few threads about some MAF sensors having the IAT sensors built into them. I think it was the Z06 MAF, IIRC.

I will PM you about the wiring harness here in the near future. Thanks for all of your help.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I found the correct size steel rivet to install the exhaust manifold heat shield back on with using a washer on all three holes. The size is 3/16" diameter with a length range between 1/8" and 1/4".

I tried to remove the bad stud on my manifold last night and you can forget about that! I tried everything. Liquid Wrench doesn't help. I'm pretty sure I was coming close to twisting the stud off at one point. So I guess I'm going to have to just cross thread the nut on there to make it work. Worst case I will just buy a pair of '01-'02 manifolds.

1ADan

iTrader: (4)

I went with a 5-wire truck setup - built in IAT and they're dirt cheap and plentiful

dprest68

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I got a few new toys in this week. woo hoo

New Spohn LCA relocation brackets on the rearend and a TA Performance girdle cover with stud kit. Some very high quality stuff. I even found a mechanic nearby that wasn't afraid to check-out my 9-bolt. I want to make sure everything on it is up to par since it has about 140,000 miles on it and I have no idea if anything has ever been done to it before. It worked fine and made no noise before I pulled it out of the car, but I just want to make sure it's all good since I am going to be pushing the limits of it

Is there any demand for the stock 9 bolt cover when I replace it with the TA cover? I'm assuming there is since parts for this rearend are hard to come by.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a good idea Dan. There are probably tons of them in the junk yards. I'm sure Pocket could adjust my harness accordingly when the time comes.

dprest68

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Quick question. I have a nice deep aftermarket pan on my 700r4 that I want to put on my 4L60E. From what I can tell I can swap the pans with no problem. Is this correct?

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

how did you get that engine block so clean? curious since i wanna clean mine and hear all sorts of techniques on cleaning aluminum...

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

LOL. I wondered when someone would ask that! I cleaned it up as best I could with different chemicals, but there were certain items like the oil pan that were stained too bad. So I ended up painting all of the aluminum stuff with high temperature aluminum engine paint. That way I won't have to deal with aluminum oxidation either. And everything looks the same. No different color aluminum pieces.

My friend said that his dad used some kind of acid to clean his aluminum stuff, but I'm not sure what exactly he used. He is finding out for me. I'll let you know.

88FormulaKiller

iTrader: (8)

cool man, what brand eng paint? if i may ask, it looks good...

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Here is a pic of the painted tranny with the can of paint on top.

It's Dupli-Color High Heat Ceramic 1200 degree. You can see the difference between the engine and the tranny in this pic. Notice how the engine block has the white oxidation on it. For some reason the heads did not oxidize. It must be because it's a different type of aluminum or something.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Oh man... I forgot how much of a PITA it is to remove a stock tranny pan without making an oil slick! My triangular oil change tub just isn't big enough! Whose bonehead idea was it not to put a drain plug on those things?

Does anyone have an answer about the aftermarket pan that I asked above?

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Summit has a pan that says it fits both 700R4 & 4L60E, so it should work without a problem. Can anyone confirm this?

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I confirmed it myself. The pans swap with no problems. I just left the oil filters alone inside since they were different between the two trannys. Do you guys think I should put a new tranny filter in it? The oil was kind of nasty.

I found a local guy from another forum that is going to hook me up with a fuel rail with the regulator on it and 3rd gen a/c brackets to put the 3rd gen compressor on the LS1. So that's cool. That solves two more of my issues. Only about a dozen or so more issues left to resolve!

White'89

iTrader: (8)

The way I have always been taught, "If your gonna have it apart might as well do it". And anyways its always a good idea to change filters when changing fluids.

dprest68

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Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I was just being lazy (and cheap)

A new filter and gasket are less than $10 at Autozone. So I will just pick one up the next time I am there.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Weekend updates:
Here is the tranny with the upgraded pan. Hopefully I won't have any ground clearance issues with it.

I got my drivers side exhaust manifold cleaned-up and painted with some 2000 degree paint. Hopefully it won't burn off! I still have to pop rivet the shield back on. I found some SST EGR block off plates on e-bay that I am going to use to block off the EGR ports.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I spent most of my day laying on the creeper cleaning the underside of the car in the rear. Removing 22 years of road grime is no fun at all. A few wire brushes, half a can of Xylene and a half a can of undercoating later...

It's not perfect, but it looks pretty decent. Way better than it did! There is still a lot more cleaning to do under there as you can see.

I got my Racetronix wiring harness rerouted to look the way Racetronix intended it to look with most of the wiring hidden.

Hopefully I can get the rearend over to the mechanic this week to get it checked out and refreshed if needed. I want to get it back under the car before I start the engine swap.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Speaking of the rearend...

I mocked-up my brake setup. New ultra premium rotors, high performance ceramic pads (not installed in the pic) and the cleaned-up PBR caliper. I'm going to clean-up and paint the rearend after I get it back from the mechanic and get the LCA relocation brackets welded on.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

From doing my research, it looks like the fuel rails that have the FPR built-in to them ('97 Corvette) come with a fixed pressure of 58psi. Can anyone confirm that? Also from what I read, the fuel pressure for these engines should be around 61psi. How will that 3psi difference effect the tuning of the car? I like the idea of the Hawks adjustable FPR setup, just not the price! This fuel rail with the FPR on it will be much cheaper.

White'89

iTrader: (8)

They did not have regulators on the fuel rail, the fuel filter on them doubled as a regulator and its what almost everyone who does this swap uses. And its 58PSI which is perfect.

dprest68

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If I'm not mistaken, this fuel rail, with the two lines coming off of it, has the regulator built into it and I believe it is from a '97 Corvette or possibly a truck.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats the 97-98 Corvette fuel rail and yes it's got a regulator built in. Just hook the two lines directly to your stock fuel lines and you're done

Most people dont use them because they are hard to find and expensive when you do

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Okay, that's what I thought. So as White'89 said, 58psi is perfect, correct?