88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

so I have my y-pipe off still since I was doing some modifications just about ready to put the y-pipe back up and I keep looking at my hawks swap headers hanging in my basement... so now im thinking I could install them this time around but I keep thinking do i have to move anything to get them in the car. do they both go in from the bottom or just the pass side? what tips do you guys have?

Ace

iTrader: (2)

I went in thru the top both times. As long as you get everything out of the way it is pretty easy. Thru the bottom you gotta get the car up pretty high.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

my car still has a/c so im guessing the pass side will go from under then?

dynodanmanda79

iTrader: (1)

I believe I put my passenger side through the top and driver's side through the bottom, or vice versa. Regardless, they went in pretty easy!

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

maybe I will give it a shot then.. back when I had hooker long tubes those went in easy but those had a primary that was a slip fit. I guess Now I have to decide if I will weld on my band clamp flanges.

BTW thanks for the fast responses

timmyboy

You will have to do something about your y pipe. i dont know what you have for current exhaust.

Z28FAST1

I just re-installed mine this weekend since i got them ceramic coated.

Easy one is the passenger from the top after removing the valve cover and coils 5-10 minutes with no scraping anywhere.

The driver side from the bottom (after lifting the car from the k-member as high as possible) 15-20 minutes.

If your planning on daily driving/long trips, etc, I would really recommend getting them coated because stainless steel dissipates a lot of heat which in turn heats up the interior even after I dynamated my interior.

mille_3

iTrader: (3)

Mine both went in from the top. Easy one for me was the driver side, whereas the passenger side I also took the valve cover off and the A/C box was already out. Took about 25 min for both sides.

cam-

Good point. My car roasts the heat through the floor and firewall. Non coated but I may just have to get em coated now. Time permitting of course

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

wonder why its worse heat than the hooker long tubes??

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

actually, stainless retains heat, much better than is dissipates it, which is why it warps to hell when you weld it. It works well for headers because it keeps the heat in the pipes more than uncoated mildsteel would, so you dont "have" to coat it.

your floor is heating up because there is no factory heat shield where the long tube hearers would be running, since the factory routing is different. the added ceramic will defiantly help though.

without the stock heat sheild over the cats, me current exhaust melted the undercoating on the floor in that area and made the passengerside floor very hot. Putting the heat shield back in changed everything

Z28FAST1

I had shorties and hooker long tubes but did not notice the heat problem until the Hawks. I also think they run closer to the floor area?

It was something to that effect. I was thinking doing something similar to the under carriage for better heat reflection but I'll see how much the temp is reduced with the coating. Damn exhaust cost me more than my engine !!!!

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

if all else fails, you can just wrap the headers where they are close to the floor. Even the titanium wrap is cheaper than coating will be.

or you can get sheets of aluminum laminated fiberglass heat shielding that can be bent to shape and make shields that you can slip over the headers and fasten to the floor/subframe

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Stainless is stronger at high temps than mild steel.

Ceramic coating is the superior method for reducing heat transfer. They should be coated inside & out.

Although a recent convert myself, I am convinced this is the best way to install them.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Thought I'd better check one fact before opening my big mouth.

http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm

Mild steel conducts heat at about 4-5x the rate of stainless.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

X2, it suckes, LOL, but IDK how many times i could not say that when i was building GEN I engines!

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

No real input here other than saying one thing I like about the stainless headers, is they seem to cool down quicker for working on the motor vs. steel. I feel like I can touch them a LOT sooner than mild steel headers and a WHOLE LOT sooner than cast manifolds haha.

I got both of my headers out from the bottom just by lifting up the car on ramps. Not sure why you'd go through the trouble of removing the valve cover and coils on the passenger side if you can go from the bottom, and you already have the car up to do the drivers side... Tho...I cant remember if the starter and all was an issue or not. I think ide still rather drop the starter than the coils and valve cover though.

My headers are now impossible to get off with the motor in. I welded extensions on with v-band flanges. The extra length, PLUS my modified A/C box makes it a no go on the passenger side. Driver side does come out, but takes some finesse.

J.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

well I got the flanges welded on today. I just might get them on this year. I already had the stainless u-bends and 3"pipe in the basement waiting for the install. just have to buy the stainless 40s

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Those are looking pretty sweet.

Anyone have any sealing issues? When looking at the weld protrusions on the flange, has this caused any leaks between the flange and the heads, or have you guys been finding the stock gaskets seal without issue? Is a quick pass with a flap wheel required to get a good seal? Nothing worse than header leaks..

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

thanks... I didnt weld them on though I had a guy at work do it. I'm just not that great of a welder, I could have done it but I would rather the headers be done by someone who welds more and will keep an even weld. I will take my chances on a pipe or bends that costs alot less and means nothing with a glob because i run off the seam and have to double back over the bead again .

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

HP52TA: I havent see any with the seal weld being above the plane of the flange... That would bother me, as the gaskets seal on the flange. I would think you would want that surface as flat and true as possible...just like with the deck and heads. Especially since its just that one primary it seems... I might be looking for an exchange if I were you. I dont think you should have to flap wheel your new $800+ headers...

88 350 tpi formula: Did you mock the headers up with the v-band flanges in place? I was going to put my flanges right on the collectors, but found that it got VERY tight with the flanges and the bulky clamps that far forward. Thats why I ended up putting extensions on my collectors and moving the clamps back a little bit. Maybe you have more room than me... Here are a couple pics to show what I mean.

I see that Z28FAST1 has his welded right on the collectors...I just couldnt make anything fit that way. Just curious more than anything as Im sure you've checked it all out.







You can see how I had to kick them in a little.

J.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

No i did not, I looked at alot of pictures of them on at the header. I figured if it touches the frame I will have to tweek them a little but they should fit. there are a few 3 bolt flange ones on here as well. did you try having them on the header? also how old are yours? they look like the original ones that hang lower


have to say you have me second guessing my research now

Z28FAST1

The secret to clearance is in the y-pipe. When the y-pipe isn't hooked up, my collectors are very close to the frame (less than an 1/8 inch) The y-pipe was made in a way that it actually pulls the two collectors inward so when the y-pipe is hooked up, it creates more than 1/2 inch clearance per side. A bit hard to explain but I have to pry the headers inward about 1/2 inch so that i can get the y-pipe v-bands on then they pretty much stay that way.

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

well it still might be a bit longer before i install them. I have to do yet more research on the mufflers I wanted to use. I am set on the fact I do not want any rasp and for what ever reason I see way too many systems that sound like ***.. I can deal with drown but rasp sounds like a pickup truck some HS kid cut the muffler off

88 350 tpi formula

iTrader: (9)

yes this makes perfect sense

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (2)

Man, i wish my exhaust was than nice.

Z28FAST1

Quick update on the ceramic coating results. It SIGNIFICANTLY reduced interior heat!!! I can drive with the windows up all the time now without breaking a sweat

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

88 350: Those headers were bought back in 07 I think... So pretty early prodcution I guess. They dont hang low at all, and I cant imagine them being any higher really. I had a straight shot to the y-pipe. As for the clearance thing...dont second guess yourself too much on my account. Like you pointed out, I have a much earlier version of the headers. 3bolt flanges actually take up about the same, if not a little less, room than those v-bands. Once you get the actual clamps on there, they take up some room. The only difference is, you only have to have access to one bolt, vs. 3, so you can stuff them up and out of the way easier. You'll love the install/removal with those v-bands though...WAY easier than slip fit thats for sure. My y-pipe drops straight down without disturbing the headers or the catback. Like a drop out section. Works great.

However...Im not a HUGE fan of the y-pipe having anything to do with pulling the headers in on each other. That means you are putting stress on a system that is heated up and cooled down hundreds of times a year. Ide be worried about stress at the welds of the y-pipe most of all. Like splitting a wishbone haha. It might not be an issue. But I like that my exhaust just kind falls into place, and almost fully supports itself in the correct location with no hangers.

To do it over again... I would LOVE to weld in a couple of magnaflow cats, and a couple piece of flex pipe. Things are so tight down there, that letting the motor move a little without the rest of the exhaust moving would be a nice improvement.

Im by NO MEANS an exhaust expert haha. Other than cobbling together Jeep exhaust for years, this was my first go at making a compact, free flowing exhaust with nice bends and TIG welding. I KNOW it can be better. Some day when I have money I might redo it haha.

J.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

You need to use hangers. You don't want the headers supporting the exhaust.