QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Wiring is a lot slower process than I anticipated.

I've got the engine wired from front to the back of the heads. From that point on it's still a real mess but not as big a mess as it used to be. I chose to do the braided split wire wrap only because I think it looks better than plastic. I am anticipating it will be difficult to keep the braided wrap looking clean, but oh well, it's just an engine bay and I'm not making a show car.

Starting from bottom of engine and working up....

I had to run the wires on sides of block to the front of engine because I couldn't find a way to avoid touching the headers at the back. I haven't checked clearance to motor mounts yet but I think the wire bundle will pass under the mounts without trouble. Nice thing about the Hawks 2" headers is that access to starter is incredibly easy. 4th gen owners have to weave the starter cables through the header tubes.




Behold! My homemade wire clip.




Same deal again, except driver side. Another homemade wire clip sized just right for the job.




The area by throttle body gets cluttered. It's just the way it is, I guess. What you can't see is a three-way split in the bundle on the down leg because of the cam position sensor, knock sensor, and alternator field control.




Injector harness.




Transmission is all tidy.




But there is still a lot to do yet. And the whole harness needs to be extended.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

One thing I forgot to mention earlier is that the injector harness adapters were complete junk. I tossed them and soldered in pigtails with the LS3 style connector (grey connectors). I like to use water proof heat shrink to cover up the soldered wires. Basically, it is heat shrink with a glue that melts and seals up the ends. Don't forget to keep the new connectors in order and labeled with numbers 1 - 8 (it does matter!) And make sure the soldering is done in a portion of wire that will lay straight, because soldered wire doesn't bend.




The other thing I did was install a coolant sensor for a '98 Camaro LS1. That particular year has a 3 wire sensor (instead of 2 wire like other years). Two of the wires are for the PCM, but the third is the one you need to run the gauge in the 3rd gen dash. One of the connectors on the emissions system is identical to the connector needed at the temp sensor so I just cut it off with some extra wire and soldered the wires to the harness. I also put the sensor on the driver side because I don't think it will clear the AC box if placed on the passenger side. The passenger side gets a plug GM part number 12553191. Turns out that plug is just a fancy bolt, so if you have a bolt that fits it will do.

BigJon88

iTrader: (2)

Its Sexy looks great

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I made a major step forward today because the engine is in my car! I slid in the whole engine completely assembled, including headers.

Not everything went smooth though. The BMR K-member was not fun getting lined up but I finally got it bolted in place. And then a bolt completely broke off in the frame when torquing. So now I get to learn how to remove a broken bolt and hope the nut inside the frame is okay. And the Skulte trans crossmember is way off. I need to figure out if the crossmember is wrong or if this will keep happening if I order another crossmember.

Sky high in the air. Car had to go pretty high to roll the engine under. I used wheel dollies and some wood to carry the engine. I was concerned if I did something too fast that it would tumble so I moved very slowly!




In through the wheel well and engine is situated. A couple minor adjustments as the car came down and the engine was located perfect with zero contact to anything. I will say this technique is pretty darn risky. I don't know if I'll do it again without a proper car lift. But I don't have a car lift so...... hmmmm.




Engine in place. BMR K-member and A-arms are 31 lbs less than stock for those who are wondering.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Nice! Congrats man! You'll have it running in no time!

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

i did a fourthgen like that one time (no lift, lifted body with an engine hoist)...NEVER again...it was almost a nightmare, and gave me the eebiejeebies the whole time i was working with it suspended.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

My Hawk's (Skulte style) trans mount bolted right up.
Did you get the spacer setup figured out on your BMR?
Thread in here not too long ago about the same problem, broken bolt and all.
No fun getting that broken bolt out with everything in.
I did a test fit on the K without the engine let me see what was needed where. Added a couple of flat washers on the back mounts.
When I did my engine/ tranny install, I lowered the body most of the way onto jack stands. Then I raised the engine up with my hoist. I think the engine is easier to shift around that way. Maybe some version of that will work if you need to move the engine.
Good luck. It will be done soon.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...n-kmember.html

?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Thanks for the help. I did not use the spacers. Everything sits flush.

After reading that link now I'm scared it's going to happen again! Reason not identified in that thread as far as I could tell.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

QwkTrip-
If everything is flush, there should be no issue. Is your torque within the bolts torque spec? All I can think off. Chatter on the other thread about better than Grade 8 bolts.
On IROC-v's car, there was a slight space on the rear mounts. I had the same deal and used washers to fill the space. Think he did too.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

When I put in my Skule crossmember it looked wrong too. But after getting it around the lines and doing one bolt at a time it slid right in.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Thanks. Skulte crossmember bolts to car just fine. Doesn't line up with transmission though.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I had a friend point out that the torque spec for an M12 10.9 bolt is way under 130 lb-ft that is in the BMR instructions. I think my problem is found.

Capture this graphic here so it's handy in the future

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I did end up putting a spacer in there. A 5mm thick washer, if my memory serves me. I told BMR to send me all new bolts, too, since the others were way over torqued per their instructions. They did so without even questioning me one bit. I appreciated that.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Good to hear. Enjoy!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I thought I would share a repair technique for a common problem. I put in a new headliner and the screw holes completely blew out from the rear plastic headliner trim piece (the piece just in front of the hatch). The plastic has gotten really brittle with age. It broke up pretty bad and even developed some large cracks. I couldn't find a good replacement so I gave it to a local restoration guy and he fixed it. He put Kent Chemweld on the back side to build up a very sturdy backing. Now I just need to scuff the visible side with a Scotch red pad and paint the filled cracks to blend colors. It's not "show car quality" but the filled cracks will probably not be noticed once I repaint.

Picture of back side with repair. Product is able to be sanded, if desired.




In other news, my MGW shifter finally arrived. It was on back order for about 2 months (Christmas present). I have to say, that thing looks like a work of art. No wonder they are considered the best! Shifter height is adjustable. Now I have to cut out the transmission tunnel to make room for it.

khulsebus

iTrader: (2)

really looking forward to seeing this car run. would have been interesting to compare 1/4 mile times between the blown big block vs. the ls swap.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

With the garage not cold any more, and spring yard work done, I was able to spend some time on the car again this weekend. Right now I'm in a tangled mess of wiring. It got more organized after extending and bundling a bunch of wires from the engine. But I still have a long ways to go! This wiring is not fun. I'm just making myself do it.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Been there, done that. I didn't have any fun doing it either. At least it will be the way you want it once you finish it.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Now back to the problem of the transmission not lining up with the trans crossmember. I had no choice but to drop the engine K-member again and try to change position where engine sits. I spread the motor mounts as far as the bolts would allow so I could still get the nuts started when I put things back together in the car. With the K-member back in the car I lifted the transmission with the floor jack, gave it a wriggle and push, and the whole engine moved forward and transmission now lines up with the rear mount.

Another stick of all-thread to make a homemade spreader. Jam nuts tight on the back, pair of greased up washers on each end to provide a slip surface, and a turning nut on the front.




... And magically the front tab moves forward while the rear tab stays in place.




This piece of all-thread was for one time use.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Isnt it fun to modify brand new parts?

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Yes, exactly. I'm not a person that knows how to work with metal or do any kind of fabrication so that activity there is stepping a little out of my comfort zone because if I screwed something up then I'd have to pay somebody to fix it.

Honestly, that whole K-member seems flimsy to me and I still fail to see how it is any kind of improvement over stock. I'm using it only because I don't want to throw away the money spent on it.

kmcn47

you guy's are making me cry, lol been covered in **** still trying to strip my 5.3 block

Javier87z28

iTrader: (1)

Some nice progress going on here!!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

At least you only had to bend the bracket open some. I had to break out the cutoff wheel for my spohn k-member to clear the LS1 alt the k-member was designed for

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

The car was almost complete history on Sunday. An F4 tornado destroyed part of my neighborhood and damaged most of it. 200 yards from my house there are no houses any more. Garages are really vulnerable because the door collapses so easily and then the roof is lifted off. I can only say there was a shield of mercy surrounding me because I have zero damage to anything on my property. Neighbors are not so fortunate.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Oh man! I'm glad you & your car are okay. Lucky you! Sucks for your neighbors though.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I read a lot of threads on this forum trying to figure out which radiator hoses to use and I can tell you there is common advice that is bad advice. The good advice is also common but is buried inside threads along side all the poor advice. I am going to tell you the right parts to use so you don't end up buying the wrong parts like I did and wasting time and money. Please do not clutter my thread by posting pictures of your hoses and why you did what you did. All the differing opinions and clutter is exactly why I bought the wrong parts.

I have a 3rd gen V8 radiator (Modine brass 3-core, direct drop in), and the F-body LS1 accessory drive and water pump. UPPER HOSE is the stock unmodified LS1 F-body hose (Dayco part number 71981). Use the stock 4th gen spring clamps. LOWER HOSE is the Jeep Cherokee hose (Dayco part number 71321) cut to fit. Spring clamps are Caterpillar part number 140-6364.

LS1 upper hose can be installed both directions but only one way will place the hose under the air intake pipe. It does clear 4" intake pipe at throttle body but I will have to route intake to the passenger side. (This is why I wanted to mock up the coolant hoses.) Hose rests properly in the support on the top radiator shroud. The other commonly suggested 3.4L Camaro hose (Dayco 71696) is a poor choice. It is too long, approaches water pump at the wrong angle, and hangs in the air unsupported. The hose can be forced to fit but it will begin to buckle due to unnatural bends and will swing around when driving.




Cherokee lower hose must be trimmed on both ends to fit, and then it will fit perfectly. The hose is correct diameter after trimming so no sealing issues or need to over tighten a clamp. I am convinced that people who say it touches the idler arm did not trim it correctly. The more you trim away from the radiator end, the more the hose is pulled away from idler arm. I am going to trim a bit more to pull it even further from the idler arm than what is shown in the picture below. I also made a graphic showing where to trim.

Warnd

Thanks for posting that info about the hoses. I noticed there were a few different options people were going with and wasnt too sure which direction I was going to go. This clears everything up and saves me multiple trips to the parts store lol. Nice diagram too!

JayBoCC2

+10 thanks for the hose fitment guide!!!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I was going to make my own fuse/relay panel using the Delphi modular system, but I stumbled across a pre-made kit that is nearly identical to what I was going to do so there is no point in going through the effort or expense of making my own. http://shop.bp-automotive.com/LSX-24...?categoryId=10

It's just a little bigger than my hand. It will fit on the firewall next to brake booster where the old row of relays used to be.
Update: Pictures showing mounted to firewall, Post #194, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5829277




Also going to pick up one of these for power distribution. http://www.waytekwire.com/item/46095/ This will enable switched vs. constant power and I will use it as power distribution to the underhood fuse block and the original fuse panel inside car. Update: I ended up using a Littlefuse MTR for power distribution instead, Post #419, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post6019718

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Why go aftermarket? Something wrong with stock? I understand a relay block esp if you're using a ton, but you have ample fuses already

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Mainly ease of troubleshooting because everything isn't intertwined in an illogical mess. Accurate labeling of circuits, no more fusible links, modern relays, less voltage drop in power distribution. It's no different than somebody using the 4th gen fuse center. A modern approach to power distribution.

And I am pretty particular about my car

coptzer

iTrader: (2)

I just bought a fuse/relay block from Current Performance that looks identical to that except mine didn't come with the OBDII. I bought it for the same reasons you listed. Have you mounted it yet, and if so do you have any pics of it mounted? I was thinking of mounting mine on the drivers side front, where the horn is. I drilled 2 holes to get inside the frame rails to run all the wiring to the front of the car. That will hide all of the fuse block and front light wiring. I will need to extend the wires though. Now I just need to figure out what wires on the C100 to power up and how I'm going to do that.

Car's looking awesome by the way. Super clean which is what I'm trying to do, but time consuming isn't it... I also like your custom clips. I made some clips out of aluminum for my braided fuel lines but didn't dip them. Should have cause that looks great. I saw you had your trans rebuilt. I was going to use them, but decided to do it myself. I rebuilt mine with a stage 2 kit because of a broken key... wasn't too bad.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

No, I don't have it mounted. I move at turtle pace because I just tinker now and then for fun. Switching battery to driver side so air filter has a prime location on passenger side.

I love the looks of your car. Clean and smooth is the way to go!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I pulled out the old smelly firewall insulation a long time ago because of the mouse infestation. After a lot of searching I eventually found an OE style pad from QuietRide. It fit really good but you can imagine it was not fun installing because everything has to come off the firewall. After a long night of cuts, bruises, and wresting with mounting the brake pedals and Tick clutch master, I finally got it in. There's a lot of stuff on the floor pan that hurts, man! LOL!

I also got my heater core, A/C condenser, and evaporator pressure tested and it is all good to go. That stuff goes in tomorrow and then I'll work on LS swap interior wiring while the dash is out.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

FYI - The spring clamps from Chevy dealer fit the upper radiator hose but are way too small for the lower radiator hose. If you use the Cherokee lower hose then you can get a high quality spring clamp from Caterpillar (part number 140-6364) for only $2.50 each. This clamp has an effective range of 46.5 to 47.5 mm.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

come on dude, wrap this thing up. i've had 3 engines and 2 transmissions in my car since you started this thread (i mean that in a nice way)

Kyle86

iTrader: (1)

LOL MATT! Me too 3 engines and 2 trans since '11. Maybe we are the ones that need to wrap it up haha NO REGRETS THO! All part of the fun.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

And I've had about six different cars since then, too. You think this is the only car I have?

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

it should be


come on man, don't let a little friendly ribbing get under your skin

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Darn LS coil stud put a gash in the AC case on firewall. This is with truck brackets, too. I cut off the stud so it's simply a bolt now. Turns out finding a nice AC case is not a simple task but I finally found one from a low miles car at Thirdgen Ranch. And it was cheap too!




Stud cut off and a spot of paint to prevent rust on bare metal.
Update: Did not work. Ended up modifying the coil bracket, as shown in post #279, https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5901869

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I started to look at adding roll stop and an adjustable proportioning valve but had to figure out what brake lines and fittings are on my car stock. Apparently that information seems to be some of the most elusive information on the internet. After hours of searching and finding a bunch of threads that don't come to a useful conclusion, I finally picked up a caliper and thread pitch gauge and measured things on my own car. Here are the brake lines and fittings sizes for an '89 Firebird. I figure a lot of people are wanting this same info so here it is.

• Front lines are 3/16" tube.
• Rear lines are 6mm tube. A lot of people think it is 1/4" tube but it is not. 1/4" tube is a little larger and does not use the same fittings.
• All fittings are various sizes of metric bubble flare (ISO / DIN spec).

Edit: My new brake system is shown in post #282
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5907932

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Things just took a sharp turn..... I got a Holley HP system. Pulled out the LS1 harness in about 1 minute and won't miss it one bit! This HP EFI is going to suit me well because I never wanted to deal with learning to tune anyway.

A couple months ago I looked at the HP EFI and thought it wasn't for me because it lacked certain capabilities beyond engine control. Then I got further down the road with my wiring and realized the things I thought were issues against the HP EFI weren't really issues at all. Well, I accidently ran across a good deal on a new-in-box unit with the same weird LS1/LS3 combo I'm running and I couldn't say no. I'm pretty excited about this turn of events! Believe it or not, I'm working on my car right now and want to get it on the road. This HP EFI is going to speed things up.

But nothing can be perfect. Those hosers down at Holley assembled my harness wrong. I couldn't get both connectors plugged into the ECU because of the way they did the harness. I stripped the harness back about a foot, de-pined a wire from the connector, and moved things around so I could plug it in. Quick fix with no cutting.

I've got a bunch of stuff on order so I can't have any excuses for not having parts I need to finish. Should have a delivery tomorrow and work on it over the weekend.

cam-

^ Nice buy. Im probably going to use the Holley sys on my next boosted build. 16 injectors is hard to pass up, especially when i cant get E85 anywhere near here.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

Took an inventory last night. Looks like I need to cannibalize my original harness of the following items:

1. Oil pressure wire for dash gauge.
2. Alternator ignition wire. I will connect it to a key switch RUN power source. I know it needs a resistor in circuit to limit current but not sure what is the specification.
3. 3-position coolant temp sensor from '98 Camaro. The HP EFI system comes with 2-position connector. I will de-pin it and put those leads in the 3-position connector so I can run my temp gauge.
4. Transmission harness sub-assembly. HP EFI can't do anything with transmission so trans will have to be standalone. Bought a Dakota Digital SGI-5 to run my speedometer. Still thinking about a good way to keep the reverse lockout solenoid. I can use brake switch but it doesn't seem terribly robust method.
5. Crank and cam sensor extensions I custom made. I have gen IV engine block so cam sensor is in the front cover. And I have to run crank sensor over front of engine because I can't keep it off the headers when I drop it down the back.
6. O2 sensor extensions I custom made. Again, a Gen IV block thing.

Trying to decide where to mount the ECU. I wish the harness was just 6 inches longer and it would better reach inside the cab. And after reading Holley's requirements I get the idea the ECU is not very hardened against EMI or vibration. Have to be careful with this thing.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

470ohms inline with your switched power to the alternator.

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

What is your source of info? That is only 0.027 Amp on 13V system and that doesn't seem right at all.

I know an application engineer at Delco Remy so I will verify the specification and report back.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Well done, ive been wanting to install a line lock since I got my 89 in 91. Just never got around to it.
This and the firewall pad info will help out my motivation a ton, thanx!

QwkTrip

iTrader: (22)

I made that brake diagram so I could find the correct adapters. It didn't help.

I ended up talking to an engineer that designs tube nuts and he confirmed there isn't off-the-shelf hardware to do the job. He could make adapters for me if I could meet a 1000 piece minimum order quantity. So conversation ended with conclusion that best approach is to cut off old tube nuts and install SAE double flare nuts.

• 3/16 tube uses a 3/8"-24 double flare nut.
• 6mm tube can use a 7/16"-24 double flare nut for 1/4" tube, as long as you properly re-flare the tube.
• His recommendation is to lubricate the tool die with a dab of oil. And do not clamp super hard or the cone will be oversized and you'll get a leak. On the second hit, just snug up the tool and tighten another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.