KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

So who's done this?

The 82 is a mechanical clutch with all the exposed shift linkages.

Just curious what parts are needed if one was to swap to an LS1+T56, looking strictly at tranmission parts.

What I've got so far:
LS1 T56
Hydrualic master+slave?
98+ clutch pedal?
98+ T56 driveshaft?
LS1 Brake Booster?
What X-member?
What TQ-arm?
What else?

Where does the master and slave mount? Will I need the later, smaller, brake booster to make room for stuff? What are some of the complications/hard parts with the swap? I'm guessing crossmember would be aftermarket with modding to the frame. TQ arm would be custom mounted to the xmember.

This is all just theoretical. Only asking as I haven't found specific info on 82 mechanical related stuff. Just want to see what it takes.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The Hawks LS1/T56 crossmember is a good place to start. Your subframes will be missing two holes (one on each side) - you'll need to match drill them, and put nuts on plates inside the frame members.

Use the 4th gen pedals as a template where to mount the clutch master cylinder. You'll have to drill holes - nothing exists there in 82's. The 3rd gen brake booster is fine, though.

I have the BMR adjustable stock replacement TA on the LS1/4L60E - it's a good piece. Jegster on the LS1/T56. Which one you use depends upon how much abuse you expect to subject the car to after the swap. If more than the rear can handle, you probably don't want a tranny-mounted TA. You can get crossmember mounted TA's, but they restrict exhaust routing a bit - that's what makes the Hawks crossmember so nice (used the appropriate piece on both my4L60E and T56 swaps). The BMR Track Pak is a stout piece, comes with its own crossmember for the front mount of the TA, and gives good exhaust clearance.

Oh, subframe connectors. If you don't have them, get them. (The Trak Pak crossmember mounts to them, in fact.)

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

The Hawks xmember doesn't look to expensive. Not bad. Tunnel mount TA + SFCs would be a good idea. Got it.

So the 82 pedals would have to be modded exactly like the later year pedals to work with the LS master? Something about drilling out the bushing on the CMC.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I'm not completely familiar with the cable clutch pedal setup, but I doubt it would work with a hydraulic clutch. The only discussion I've seen here about modifying a 3rd gen pedal for 4th gen MC involves 3rd gen hydraulic clutch setups.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

It's a linkage style setup with a Z-bar.
Here's some links I'm referencing to.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-retrofit.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...er-t-10-a.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...nt-clutch.html

Looking into this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sout...onversion.html
and this:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-z-28-4-a.html

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

I've got an '83... that had that lovely mechanical clutch.
It has been some months, but I recall ovalizing the existing hole in the firewall, for the master cylinder. I think I had to drill the mount holes.
Then I made a U-shaped plate (with bolt holes) to reinforce the firewall- it goes around the master clylinder.
Now, get this, there was a hole on my 3rd gen pedals, that was in the perfect place for the clutch rod.... did I have to extend the rod a bit?? or trim it?
I think the answer is trim it, but I trimmed too much.. which got me into the extension mode.
The clutch pedal is high, but the sweep gives full, straight travel...
Have not set it up further, yet... the rest of the project's not there yet... but I expect it should be ok.
The brake pedal is fine, as the master cylinder and booster are all in the same place as before.
Throttle is moot, as I am going to use C5 fly by wire- getting THAT pedal to fit in the footwell is going to be a TREAT, BTW. Already I have cut it down. Now to mount it.
Give it a look, there are SOME hidden treats in the older cars.

PS- I used an aftermarket master cylinder with a heim put on the rod, to make it adjustable.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

So the hardest part is locating the Master and attaching to the pedals.

All that trouble for mounting this little thing?? Yeesh

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Well, the cool thing is, it is not that much trouble.
The holes are in the right place. Both in the firewall, and the pedal. Considering the years and models separating them, that's not too bad. Hooking my new brakes up is much more involved.
OK, here it is, as I remember. The hole in the firewall is the right size. You just need to adjust for the cylinder being on an angle- look at the bracket on the master cylinder to show you what you need. That plate goes against the firewall.
ALSO, you need to shorten the rod a little. I used a RAM Master Cylinder. The only way it is different is they threaded the rod and put a heim on. I cut down the heim (rod end) and the shaft. Cutting the heim would have probably been enough.
Then look for the stray hole up on your pedal. Adjust the heim for where you get full travel on the Master Cylinder.
Sell that pretty MC you have.

I think the 4th gen pedal route most folks have to go through, is more involved. Don't worry. The oddball early cars pay in other places.

You will want a remote bleeder, too.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I believe when it's all up and running, you'll find that the firewall holes are not in the right place for the 4th gen MC, even an adjustable aftermarket MC. The geometry just doesn't work out.

But, I could be wrong. So, do what you think is best.

A Mity Vac works pretty well as a bleeder. I've never opened my bleeder valve.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Good info guys!