25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

To make a question simple, without going to far off stray, I want to first say I completely understand how to measure the distance between the throw out bearing and pressure plate fingers, and have been able to bleed the clutch and am very confident there is no air in the system with all new components.

So assuming all parts are good, system is properly bled, and one knows to properly measure for a slave shim, what gap are we shooting for(specifically a ls7 clutch)? I am wondering what the correct gap between the pressure plate fingers and Release bearing SHOULD be. In all my searching on this, there is tons of references to use shims for proper engagement and dis-engagement, but only one thread I found had specific measurements, and they were conflicting ones at that. There is a recommendation for .100 gap and another for .175-.225. I shimmed to .209 and have super low disengagement, which tells me .100 was probably the correct one to use. Maybe we can decipher which clutches use which measurements for those searching in the future? I searched a lot, and is very frustrating when there is very little AND conflicting numbers, which indirectly leads to a transmission coming back out. If the info was out there and clear, I would t be doing this twice, and so I hope we can find an answer to this to save somebody else time later on. Again, I completely understand measuring to see if you need a shim, but its impossible to know if you need a shim if you don't know the distance you are even looking to achieve.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

.160 to .200 is what I remember. Have a RAM right now. Do not like it much. Bet the LS7 is better.
Had to get help with the hydraulics.... getting all the air out of the master was a big problem on my car. Could be what is up for you. I think a recent thread talked about the issue.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

It's just so funny that there are so many measurements out there. This seems like it would be a common knowledge thing by now to use "X" amount of gap for stock hydraulic setups. Had another shim made today that will put me at .099 gap, will report back with results in a few hours....

jazzdadss

I don't know, I was trying to find it for you in my Mitchell1 but it doesn't help. Just says to slap the parts on and go, doesn't talk about TOB to PP fingers distance. Sorry.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Removing and installing the trans solo is a pita. Pedal did come up a little bit, bled hydraulics again, and seen no air bubbles, no effect. Clutch just begins to grab about 1 inch off the floor now instead of right on the floor. Atleast I know I am getting full disengagement, but I would still like a little higher cluth pedal. Maybe tomorrow I will take it on its maiden voyage and see how it feels on the street. Roads are dry right now and they haven't salted the back roads yet, and snow is on the way. Maybe it will feel better than I think once I drive it....

HP52TA

iTrader: (4)

Here is one of the best write ups that I had found when I was putting mine together and it has always worked out flawlessly.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html

Their setup dimensions are from a lot of history in trying to get the best performance out of the clutch system and it has worked well for me every time, regardless of stock, Centerforce or ACT clutches which I have setup.

If you are pulling it apart again, I would recommend installing a remote bleeder. It takes all the hassles out of trying to bleed it from under the car and is well worth the small investment.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

That's the same thread I found the most useful I formation as well. The only thing that was bothersome is that is also the same thread with multiple acceptable measurements spoken about. From now on, I will shoot for the .100 measurent, or atleast the tighter end of the tick performance recomendation of 1/8th(.125)

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I stumbled upon a good deal on a almost new tick master cylinder. I have the ls7 clutch set which is a self adjusting pressure plate. Because of this I am unsure if I install the master cylinder with the shim behind the slave or if I remove the shim? I do not for see an issue leaving the shim in.....

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Tick went in tonight, finally getting our first real snow so the roads will be salted now, and car has no hope of seeing pavement before April. I can already tell the clutch is finally disengaging properly though, clutch pedal is slightly below the brake pedal, and it is disengaging just over halfway through the throw. Sucks the tick is fairly expensive, but never will I screw with shims again, totally hopeless in my situation, stock master apparently was just not strong enough for the ls7 clutch set.......

86White_T/A305

this is where many guys do the drill mod instead of buying the tick or something else more performance oriented.i got no shims on my ls7 as i was told its not needed.pedal height and dis/engage points feel great.its sits slightly above my brake pedal but i have a leaking brake master.

shame you cant take it for a test drive and begin adjusting the tick rod as this is very important step aswell.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I didn't tighten the jamb nuts on the adjustable rod portion, I am sure it will need some tinkering when I can get it on the street. Trick will be seeig if I remember to do so when that one comes, haha.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

The only good explanation I could come up with as to why I needed shims and the majority do not, is that the ls7 pressure plate is adjustable. There are photos on ls1tech of one adjusted to both extremes, and the fingers can be brought in or out about an inch. I bought mine from a individual on eBay, not a store, and while it looked new with no signs of use at all, it's possible he may have tried to use it on a project and messed with the adjustment of the fingers causing my bearing to finger gap to be so large.

cam-

New stock replacement Masters are all garbage imo. FWIW the LS7 clutch is auto adjusting so if its notchy the first few miles thats normal. IIRC its up to 1000 miles to adjust itself. One of the best clutches out there for LS powered cars. It is the best clutch out there for <450 whp cars imo

86White_T/A305

mine was notchy for awhile..and then before i knew it..notchyness was gone and it shifted better.everyone just gave me full warnings to not launch too hard on the ls7 clutch at the track as it wont like it..they were right and i found out the hard way lol.otherwise..great clutch so far for the money. smooth pedal feel..grabs good and not a chore to drive in traffic.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Nice to know a out the notchiness, hadn't seen It mentioned elsewhere, and the one trip down the road I did make, the clutch hydraulics were weird and I didn't get a good feel for the clutch to notice it. It did seem grabby, but never chattered. Probably wont see many hard launches from a dig, thinking one trip to the strip, on street tires. Need to give my ten bolt a fighting chance to make it one summer atleast so I can save for a 9inch, lol.

86White_T/A305

its not bad at all..but more and more it will be butter smooth but still grab as nice as day 1.my track day with 17 passes is the only time it seen hard dig launches and got extremely hot..this is when i saw the error in my ways for this clutch.no hot lapping and ease into it out of the hole.

on the street..i love it.never chattered..even in the harsh canadian cold days.