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So every once in a while i get a PM asking about my engine bay fuel lines so i decided to make a post with the part numbers, prices and the purchase source. I will start with parts from the factory hard lines and compile a list up to the feed on the carb. . .
O-rings (NOTE!!!! keep your old o-rings even if they brake take them with you to a auto parts store and match them up with new ones)
Earl's #361-9894DBH # Fuel Injection Female O-Ring Seal 14mm x 1.5 Thread (Jegs $11.99 )
Earl's #361-9894DBJ # Fuel Injection Female O-Ring Seal 16mm x 1.5 Thread (Jegs $11.99 )
Above highlight in red is what you need so you can adapt your new AN fittings and lines
Above highlight in blue you'll need 4 of these straight 6AN fittings
Earl's #361-310006 AN Size: -06 (3/8''); 10' Foot Length (Jegs $52.99) - NOTE: You wont need more then 6 feet
Other parts to keep the lines from moving
Insulated Clamps ( under 5 dollars )
made my own mount to run lines (cost of materials)
nuts and bolts ( under 5 dollars )
Earl's #361-982266 90° -6AN to 3/8" AN to NPT adapter (Jegs $9.99)
Earl's #361-981666 Straight -6AN to 3/8" NPT Adapter (Jegs $9.99)
Earl's Performance #593204ERL Internal Allen Head Pipe Plug, 3/8 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Pair (source Summit racing $6.25)
vacuum line cap ( under 2 dollars )
Ditched Mallory'smount they included made my own (cost of material)
Mallory #4309 Mallory Fuel Pressure Regulator
( Summit racing $84.95)
3/8 threaded pipe ( under 2 dollars)
Mr. Gasket #1561 Analog Fuel Pressure Gauge
(Summit racing $19.95)
Spectre #29883 Single Feed Fuel Line w/Gauge hole for Edelbrock/Carter (auto parts store $13)
So thats my entire engine bay fuel line setup from hard line to carb. All prices are current to date with this post. i didn't pay the exact prices as listed above. also many items can be ordered from one source and anything where i didn't put a source is because it can generally be found at auto parts stores, hardware store etc.
I see you went with the fabricated set. Very nice. I actually have the second set you had (Transdapt set) and am mating R&M wire loom separators on the top of them. I bought them for their added room (taller). Mine have a PCV and Breather though.
Everything looks great though. Thanks for pictures as well since I have yet to install my set...haha.
Having fans with out a shroud is very inefficient your not reaping the full benefit of the fans. would your toilet plunger work well with huge holes in it?
no no no no no....
i dont think that is what he was asking
he was saying: why are your fans pressed flat up against the radiator.
or at least thats what i want to know.
fan shrouds should look like this http://www.mahaffeymotorsports.com/FanShrouds.htm
there should be a gap of around an inch so that all the air being pulled out can go through the entire radiator, not just an area the size of the fan.
the way you have it set up is going to be a lot less efficient.
i would space the fan shroud out at least an inch. as long as the shroud is still fairly airtight, it will work better than what you have now.
The wiring in this car has pissed me off for years! Its butchered to hell from the pervius owner. Over time i had blown fuses, shorts, sounds and smells electricity you name it. i was going to wait till after i was done with the body work, paint and interior and take it all out to re-do it. i thoght about it one night when i was bored and i decided to gutted it all out. took about a half a hour to get the dash, steering column and wires out. Im so glade i did it!
This is how i ran the engine wires, right under the steering column i didn't know where i wanted to run them when i started to shave the firewall this was just suppose to be temporary, worked ok but inside the car was a different story so I'm running them somewhere else and redoing the engine harness
Last edited by FueledSoul; 07-23-2009 at 11:18 PM.
i spent a few hours trying to go through the harness what a hack job! who ever put this style harness in my car really had no idea what they where doing no wounder why i was goin through electrical problems. the person who put this in. . . tapeing wires together F-ing classic!
Last edited by FueledSoul; 06-18-2009 at 09:24 PM.
So i decided not to waste my time with this entire harness. i went with a painless kit Part# 10101 12 Circuit Universal / Streetrod Harness / GM Keyed Column. heres the link to the kit. http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...Street Machine
this should save time and make things easy and i wont have to worrie about the electrical problems. i got it half off too witch makes me that much happyer
iv always wanted to buy and sit on my own time and read this book i found it online new for half the cost of the price on the back of the cover innovate wide band 02 kit. just FYI the bung that comes in this kit i wont be using since im running a 100% stainless steel exhuste so i have to get some stainless bungs if anyway wants to know off hand the bung in these kits are M18 X 1.5.
Last edited by FueledSoul; 06-19-2009 at 03:14 AM.
i should be hammering out alot in the bay with in the next 2 weeks and have it 100% driveabile
another thing i want to adress is the linkage and brakets im likely going to buy some aluminum plate and make my own stuff. i also plan to get a nice looking kickdown with out paying lokar prices!
anyway. . .
so im close! once my painless kit comes i should be in business. in the mean time i will put together a new engine harness, fuse and relay board
Dont even bother putting the heater/ac duct work back in the dash, Im welding in plates over my firewall (clean smooth look) and i took out all the wireing heatercore, etc eveything that had to do with the heater or ac. the dash is like empty now lol. And I have been cleaning all the wiring up as well. and the guy was a moron as well HE USED HOUSEING cord like if you were to cut the cord of your lamp and use it. at least you didnt have any of that!
Dont even bother putting the heater/ac duct work back in the dash, Im welding in plates over my firewall (clean smooth look) and i took out all the wireing heatercore, etc eveything that had to do with the heater or ac. the dash is like empty now lol. And I have been cleaning all the wiring up as well. and the guy was a moron as well HE USED HOUSEING cord like if you were to cut the cord of your lamp and use it. at least you didnt have any of that!
Non of the stock A/C or heat will be going back in, but i will be making my own defrost for the front window using the old center vent. anyway thats really messing up! frecking houseing wire!
Non of the stock A/C or heat will be going back in, but i will be making my own defrost for the front window using the old center vent. anyway thats really messing up! frecking houseing wire!
Im not even to that point of the car yet lol. but i will just mod the existing box / dash vents and mold in a fan, like i said not even to that point yet
Im not even to that point of the car yet lol. but i will just mod the existing box / dash vents and mold in a fan, like i said not even to that point yet
yeah idk you need something that takes out the moisture to make a defroster work like a ac unit. A fan usualy doesnt work.
Yeah im definatly interested, Im about to put ac back on my iroc because i hate when it rains and is hot out, and it fogs all up, really is annoying. But keep up the good work, i cant wait to see what your finished product will look like, The color is awsome and I like the engine bay.
Yeah im definatly interested, Im about to put ac back on my iroc because i hate when it rains and is hot out, and it fogs all up, really is annoying. But keep up the good work, i cant wait to see what your finished product will look like, The color is awsome and I like the engine bay.
my defroster works with no ac...
if the moisture is on the inside, i just turn it on full blast and it seems to work pretty well.
if its on the outside, thats what wipers are for.
looking really good man.
wanna do mine next?
ill buy you a beer when you are done ok?
my defroster works with no ac...
if the moisture is on the inside, i just turn it on full blast and it seems to work pretty well.
if its on the outside, thats what wipers are for.
looking really good man.
wanna do mine next?
ill buy you a beer when you are done ok?
Well just driving home it was really hot and humid. and my widshield started to fog up, and I turned on the defroster(heat) made it worse, then cold and did nothing.
A few other parts came in today one of them being my painless wiring harness. . . After looking at it and reading the booklet im so glade i went this route! guess there's a reason there called painless. Now i will have a more organized harness. I paln to mark and labble all the wires like were they go to etc. I still have to make a new board for the engine ( fuses, relays, etc.) The engine harness i will be using weatherpack connectors at the fire wall so i can disconnect the engine harness quick from the main board makeing it easyer to pull a engine and take things off it later. Oh i also found that boating marine electronics has
alot of net stuff that can be used in automotive applications. The painless kit i bought only has the basic necessities. I will have to come up with a board if i run power windows locks and whatever else i want to run but that should be pretty straight forward and easy to do.
Last edited by FueledSoul; 06-22-2009 at 07:09 PM.
wow, i know what im going to do if i ever have to go into detail on wiring, like u said the name says it all, plus the pannel looks like it should b in the car not an add on that looks cheap, i like it
__________________
Mods so far: Exterior: L.E.D. 3rd Brake Light Conversion, Clear Corners, Custom Painted Rims, Painted Calipers/Drums, Custom Grille, Silverstar Headlights, 8" Antenna Interior: Grant GT Steering Wheel, White Face Glow Gauges, Pioneer Deck, Pioneer Speakers, 50% Tint Engine: TBI Mods, IAT Resistor, 180* Thermo, Stand-Alone Fan Switch, Accel 8MM Wires, Accel V Groove Plugs, K&N, MagnaFlow Exhaust Trans: Corvette Servo, Energy Suspention Mount Suspention: Energy Suspention Bushings, Wonder Bar, 225/60/15 Rear 215/60/15 Front Fusion HRI Tires
Ok Im doing the same thing with the firewall (as far as the old heater/ac holes). Im only at the point where I have welded the plates in. And to make it look better im am of course going to have to use filler. But i am concerned from the heat/body flex, etc that the bondo will crack. But I see you did the same thing?
Wow... I really need to do that as well... Now if I had half the amount of patience you had I might get somewhere.
Looks Great Man.
__________________ NEW ADDITION: 1982 Z-28...4 Speed
1984 Berlinetta, now a parts car.
1982 Camaro Bone Stock. Don't ever let dogs in a car. (Stupid PO)
1986 Sport Coupe V6/V8 Swap
This is awsome-- My only ques so far is how many tools have flown across the garage? LOLOL Thanks for posting all this! Inspiring to say the least. GOOD LUCK!!
wow, i know what im going to do if i ever have to go into detail on wiring, like u said the name says it all, plus the pannel looks like it should b in the car not an add on that looks cheap, i like it
still have yet to see how painlss it is to run and get working soon. I jumped ship and iv been working on the underside of the car i will be making my way back to the engine bay later this week. . .
i
Did you get the washer reservoir mounted? If so, do you have pics?
no havent got that far yet. i plan to mount that along with the 4thgen washer bottle after the impact bar and hood latch assumably is on to see where i can mount it.
Ok Im doing the same thing with the firewall (as far as the old heater/ac holes). Im only at the point where I have welded the plates in. And to make it look better im am of course going to have to use filler. But i am concerned from the heat/body flex, etc that the bondo will crack. But I see you did the same thing?
many ppl that have smooth bays have used a body filler. id look up the MSDS sheet on the bodyfillers you plan to use it should list the info you seek for heat information such as melting and boiling points ect.
as far as flex bodyfillers have some flexabitly but not much there are many places iv seen body filler go that are questionable areas that would flex under high stress. the firewall for example i woundn't worrie about think about whats close to the firewall the windshield so. . . yea. what i did is i used a short haired fibberglass body filler as the main filler for most of all the areas this filler is alot harder to sand and get consistently smooth so i used a skim coat of body filler over it to fill in pin holes and imperfections
This is awsome-- My only ques so far is how many tools have flown across the garage? LOLOL Thanks for posting all this! Inspiring to say the least. GOOD LUCK!!
