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Ok here is my IROC-Z that i got about a month and half ago. I traded my motorcycle (which was worth about 3,000) and also 3,000 cash. It runs really nice, although the guy who i got it from took every short cut imaginable on the engine so im finding out. lucky it hasnt been any costly fixes yet.
He had several home made vacuum plugs that couldnt hold anything. the torsion (sp) bar was just wedged in place and not attatched. hit a bump and it came loose thought it was the trany at first. But all it took was 1 bolt. He used CHEAP valve cover gaskets originaly so they started leaking fast. He didnt have the carb tuned at all. timing wasnt set. He bought the good spark plugs for it, but he didnt gap them. couldnt even get the gauge on them at the .2 part. So replaced them and gonna get the old ones sand blasted and save them for later. 1.jpg
The next thing i plan on doing to the car is replacing the front shocks. They are gone and when i turn the wheels are rubbing bad. I also have to find a rally wheel somewhere for it. Looks like he slid it into a curb and bent this one and u can see it as ur drivng. so alot of people have been telling me.
Then after that im gettin a holley for it and replacing the hood. 4.jpg
LOL i think your right. Well im having trouble finding the same style wheel that is on my car, any1 know where i can get them at? And if not whats a good wheel to replace them with that isnt overly expensive. ive been told by a couple people it looks like the back passenger side wheel is wobbling. All i can guess is it was slid into a curb and the wheel is bent.
LOL i think your right. Well im having trouble finding the same style wheel that is on my car, any1 know where i can get them at? And if not whats a good wheel to replace them with that isnt overly expensive. ive been told by a couple people it looks like the back passenger side wheel is wobbling. All i can guess is it was slid into a curb and the wheel is bent.
The rim may not be bent, he might of bent the axcel flange, cousing the wobble.
Ok thank you for the info, i assume that it is the axle then because when the place i took it to replaced the tires they were supposed to check it for me. Then like u said it may just put a little more wear on things, and i guess it would on the tire to a point as well.
I'm going to be replacing the shocks within the next 2 weeks and im looking at getting http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Summit SUM-G7700
for the rear and http://store.summitracing.com/partde...ew=1&N=700+150+
Competition Engineering C2610
and those for the front. Any1 think those will be good to start with? im tryin to go cheap for a while and when i actualy start racing it at the drag strip replacing them with hgih dollar ones but that will be probably 2+ years, and after alot more work. Thank you for any info in advance.
Ok i got the shocks and struts replaced, its driving alot better, passenger side strut was blown, and driver side shock was blown. the shocks that i took off were factory ones from when the car was made lol. i went with the summit drag shocks that i linked earlier, but relized the front wasnt shocks they were struts.
well now that i got that done and have been driving it, ive relized that it runs pretty dang hot so now i have to replace the radiator fan. the one that is on it is a 1250 cfm. and i was reading that my car now needs a min of a 3000. But im looking at a 5500 cfm dual fan.
In town driving the engine temp gets to 200, and highway it got up to 230 yeah lucky i didnt damage the engine. so looks like i have to wait to get my holley 650 double pumper with jet kit for a while lol.
I do plan on it, but now i have another problem on top of it over heating, lucky its a cheap easy fix, the accelerator cable is stuck. When to go start it last night to move it, and went to give it gas and the cable stuck. yet another thing thats adding up lol
fixed over heating issue. It had a 195 degree thermostat on it, replaced it with a 160, and also i noticed fan wasnt working, and it was. Well it has some bad wiring somewhere and as im driving the little bumps apparently nock the wires loose. so i ran a temp wire untill this weekend when i can take the time and run a new one, also adding a toggle switch just for the fun of it. but with fun on constantly and new termostat its idling at 165, and hot roding it around town its running at 175. alot better than 200-230
Today after work, i am putting PCV valves on my car, also running a totally new line for my fan, and throwing a toggle switch in for it. that way i can let the car warm up faster then flip the switch to turn it on. Talked with a couple people they think that is a good idea.
Today after work, i am putting PCV valves on my car, also running a totally new line for my fan, and throwing a toggle switch in for it. that way i can let the car warm up faster then flip the switch to turn it on. Talked with a couple people they think that is a good idea....
I wouldn't bother with the toggle switch, especially living in Texas. I have been running my fan on constant (key on) for as long as I can remember, never a problem. The toggle switch, although an okay idea, can be forgotten every now and then, and that is not good for the engine. Run it constant for now, then set it up properly later on....
Well, i was racing it down the street, had it about 6,500 to 7,000rpm and striped the distributor drive gear. My Cam is a Non roller cam, and the person who owned it before me put on a bronze gear.
So I was just going to do an easy rebuild. Got it torn apart, and the bearings are shot. so I'm having the crank turned, block vatted, miced, and magnifluxed. Pistons cleaned and re honed. new rings, and the heads ported, polished, and valve seals changed. And im going with the correct distributer drive gear this time.Lucky it didnt damage the cam or anything else. You do see some nice flames come fro the carb tho if you try to start it that way.
So after all that is done im going to put the AC back in the car. Does anyone know where to buy the complete setup for the AC, everything was yanked out and wires cut. Ive done a little bit of looking but no luck. Any info would be helpful.
The rim may not be bent, he might of bent the axcel flange, cousing the wobble.
hey i just puechased a 1985 z28 and it has a bent rim on the front passenger side, i was wondering if that might mean the axle is bent or a number of other problems that might manifest becuase of this ??? new to this first car,, trying to have a little fun and learn, thanks
im new to this web site i just bought a 1985 z28 camaro and its my first car, trying to get some tips and lern a little, it has a bent rim i was wondering if the axle may be bent or if anymore seriouse problems may arise thanks
im new to this web site i just bought a 1985 z28 camaro and its my first car, trying to get some tips and lern a little, it has a bent rim i was wondering if the axle may be bent or if anymore seriouse problems may arise thanks
What i did was take mine to firestone to verify whether it was the rim or the axle flange, it cost like $15 for them to tell me. but they where going to charge about $450 to fix it so i said no, it was the axle flange that was bent not the rim. i took it to a small local mechanic and he replaced it and checked everything and he only charged $150. for the whole thing.