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Question, you responded to one of my threads on the leaky gas tank filler neck, what did you do to prepare the tank before you soldered the filler again so that you wouldn't blow yourself up from the fumes.
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Fender as good as finished and did a mock up fit of the new manifold. Fender needs a little more grinding on the outside and some finish welding on the fender lip, the ugly weld blobs are from where zinc coating and other crap oozed out and pushed the molten weld pool out. Nothing a little grinding and some more welding can't fix. Still amazed at how these cars rust with all that zinc coating. The porous glue/sealer crap on the inside doesn't help here either.
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Last edited by Twin_Turbo; 11-01-2009 at 07:55 PM.
Had a little tear in the metal around the key hole...I wonder how it got there, very weird. Welded it up, ground it down.
Found some more little rust spots under the flange on the bottom there, where the bumper goes over. All the rusty areas are again where the seam sealer is..it's the same crap over and over. Already fixed the seam where the quarter panel and rear panel are spot welded together.
Question, you responded to one of my threads on the leaky gas tank filler neck, what did you do to prepare the tank before you soldered the filler again so that you wouldn't blow yourself up from the fumes.
Completely missed this, I cleaned out the tank real good and let it stink out for a couple of days. Hook up exhaust to the tank and run it full w/ exhaust fumes for a couple of minutes works well also.
Had a little tear in the metal around the key hole...I wonder how it got there, very weird. Welded it up, ground it down.
Found some more little rust spots under the flange on the bottom there, where the bumper goes over. All the rusty areas are again where the seam sealer is..it's the same crap over and over. Already fixed the seam where the quarter panel and rear panel are spot welded together.
I feel your pain....I have ground most of the factory seam seal out of my car. And like you said that is usually where rust starts. Now the problem I am having is that I coated the underside of the car with Chassis Saver (similar to POR-15). Seam sealer will not stick to it! So, now i guess I have to grind the Chassis Saver out of the seams....
I don't use seam sealer, I use black polymer/sealer nowadays. It glues almost anything and it seals too. It vulcanizes to a nice semi hard durable rubber finish, not rock hard. I used it to repair ribber firewall plugs (where cables go through) and everything, used it to glue windshields, corvette firewall (fiberglass on steel) and what not. It's vastly superior to ordinary seam sealer. It's too runny and sometimes grainy and a messy job to brush on. This stuff can be used in an applicator gun and then smeared out with a spatula or your fingers. It sticks to the rubberized bedliner and POR15 too.
I don't use seam sealer, I use black polymer/sealer nowadays. It glues almost anything and it seals too. It vulcanizes to a nice semi hard durable rubber finish, not rock hard. I used it to repair ribber firewall plugs (where cables go through) and everything, used it to glue windshields, corvette firewall (fiberglass on steel) and what not. It's vastly superior to ordinary seam sealer. It's too runny and sometimes grainy and a messy job to brush on. This stuff can be used in an applicator gun and then smeared out with a spatula or your fingers. It sticks to the rubberized bedliner and POR15 too.
Do you have a brand name or can you let me know where I can get some?
It will be named differently as I'm in the Netherlands but look for MS (modified silicone) polymer, maybe you can find something on it. It's usually available in black, white and clear.
hey i have a quick question, did you put screws in the valve covers for the spark plug holders?? they look really good, would you happen to know the part number??
The wire looms are actually for perimeter bolt covers, they have an allen screw that replaces the bolts for the covers. They are Taylor brand. Taylor also has aluminum brackets that can be used on heads with mounting holes for heat shielding on the side. They do need a bit of trimming to fit though. I also needed to notch the header flanges to clear the bolts that hold the brackets to the head.
Here's a pic of them on a perimeter bolt cover and a pic of the alu brackets:
ohhh thank you for the part numbers and the info. I was misled by the center holes on the valve covers. those spark plug wires separators look great on the engine. When is the engine going in the car?
Hopefully this or next week but waiting on Summit parts and having it out makes me wonder if I don't need to cam it up and swap on some TFS heads. Problem si, for the heads I'll need special rockers and pushrods and living here makes waiting on parts a nightmare.
Fiddled some more with the supercharger. Got the brand new bracket in that I bought here, nice to have the bolts and the spacers instead of having to come up with that myself. The bolts were actually too long, I suspect there's a piece of the serpentine (88+) brackets up against the head that makes for this difference. Didn't check against all the stuff from the 92 GTA to compare to (it's in a box..didn't feel like digging through it LOL) So I used a couple of little spacers, the blower sits a bit further back this way. One of 2 things will happen, it will fit like this and I have to mill down the drive arbord for the drive pulley or I'll have to shim it up against the head, I'll probably do that so I can fab a 1/2" thick bracket that bolts to the 3rd head bolt mount hole and these 2 long bolts for the blower bracket and weld on a threaded boss that the shorter bolt on the bracket goes through. This one goes into something that I don't have either, something off that serpentine system..possibly the alternator?? The el cheapo air filter has got to go..that thing screams *****. I've got some big K&N cone style ones that I'll use.
oh and I got this neat billet CV products timing pointer
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Last edited by Twin_Turbo; 11-08-2009 at 06:39 PM.
Why grey? Because it's different...black becomes boring after having it done a couple of times. This is sort of like a race car scheme where they paint everything light/medium grey.
I'm not following what you mean with "keep them grey" they were powdercoated grey on purpose
Well, fixed the rust under the seams on the rear, I welded it all back up, used rust converter epoxy (combo stuff) on the steel and then sealed it all off with sealer, also sealed the upper part of that long bumper flange where the water collects. This isn't going to rust anymore.
before and after pics @ cardomain (82regal)
